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I made noise with my MB-6582

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How about a set of sixteen 22nF 1% tolerance capacitors?

hehe, i got CRAZY and matched resisters and (gasp) transistors as well...

and now i got stereo patches rockin.

man is this thing fat in stereo. and that's just with two sid chips...

6 more comin up...


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How about a set of sixteen 22nF 1% tolerance capacitors?

I'd still like to get some of those, earlier you said some guys in Europe got some from a group buy or something but I haven't been able to source them  :-[

So, anybody who has 16 of those 1% 22nF caps spare (more are welcome, 20 for example) and would like to part with them (I'll gladly pay for them and expenses): please contact me!  :-*

sorry to hijack the thread, hope you'll forgive me  ;)

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how are we gonna establish a pecking order if you guys stray from the topic at hand!


anyways, all 8 SIDs rocking away now.

holy crap how fat this is. 

as ferris beuller says, "if you have the means, i highly recommend it"

can barely keep from soldering up the cp.

hold firm, wait for the front panel, almost there.... stay on target...

i'm like a kid waiting for christmas...

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  • 2 months later...

ok some photos, to be annotated later:

just pointing out things i did a bit different than friend wilba.

forgive me for this red-headed step child *whack*

notice the drilled and countersunk corner screws.

i tried 3 times to jb-weld this, each time i could pull them off with my fingers.



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i used 90 degree SIL headers instead of soldering ribbon directly to the control panel.  this saved my ass big time, when i had to trace down a short (turned out to be caused by the lcd mount, so trim those leads behind the LCD!) and also what turned out to be several damaged traces on the brd, which are thin, so i just did end runs around them (soldering a wire between the two nearest pads)  all i had to do was unplug the panel and trace away. 

Wilba pointed out a great idea for tracing the LEDs:  with panel disconnected you can use a 5v line with 1k resistor to trace all the LEDs, just ground each of the 8 pins where the transistors would go in turn and touch each other DOUT line with 5v through the resistor.



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i used press on DIL connectors like SmashTV sells.  this is not only way easier than crimping all those SIL pins, but also is a shorter connector and has strain relief.  note that i only use one row of the connector and thus solder every other cable line.  i shoved the 90 degree sil connectors down all the way when i soldered them which allowed me to use the top row, but it might be just fine to leave them at the original height and use the bottom row...

i did use a two pin SIL connector for the power and ground pins.



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here's the back.  i used neutrik audio jacks with the internal thread, which looks pretty good, i think.  the feedback pots i used were 100k instead of 500k which works fine.  i mounted the expansion port but nothing is connected to it yet (soon to be Seppoman's ssm filters and who knows what else?)  the fan makes some noise so i'm gonna think about what to do about that after i play with it some more.



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and where is the noise? ;D

you can't hear it?

i'll turn it up to 11 then...

when i have something that's not just me wanking with presets, i'll post it.

your mb6582 looks good jimp, but you really need to get rid of all the green on it :)

green good!

napster bad!

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Hey jimp, what is that LCD?

it's the Crystalfontz CFAH2004A-YTI-JP

the one from altitude's bulk order:

akkk, i just realized i didn't pull off the protective film, so it looks even better than that photo)

edit* fixed linky

Edited by bugfight
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  • 10 months later...

*Added a link to your alternative wiring guide in the wiki.

One thing i don't understand BF, is why your LCD does not look at all like the  Green-Yellow LCDs in the Bulk Order you ordered it from.

It looks a much nicer green - green.

Did you achieve this by changing the contrast?

The colour you have is a perfect alternative to using a PLED, without the noise.

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