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Sasha

somebody interested in x0xb0x PCB`s (BATCH CLOSED)

375 posts in this topic

hey el-bee, nice to see some progression. How far did you gone with PCB? I see some unsoldered pads...

ANYWAY, to get to the point.. What I was planning to ask about was, does anyone know about the correct fuse bits needed for the Atmega chip?

I burned the code with USBtinyISP and avrdude. I didn`t setup anything but as I get program response fuses OK I thought all went right. Did you get some error for fuses? I Didn`t tested AVR yet so don`t know is it really working or not.

Writing | ################################################## | 100% 40.83s

avrdude: 15214 bytes of flash written
avrdude: verifying flash memory against x0xb0x.hex:
avrdude: load data flash data from input file x0xb0x.hex:
avrdude: input file x0xb0x.hex contains 15214 bytes
avrdude: reading on-chip flash data:

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 27.92s

avrdude: verifying ...
avrdude: 15214 bytes of flash verified

avrdude: safemode: Fuses OK

avrdude done.  Thank you.

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hey el-bee, nice to see some progression. How far did you gone with PCB? I see some unsoldered pads...

Yeh it's mostly the potentiometer cabling missing from that pic since I took it before installing those. At the moment, I do have all the parts installed and the sound generation circuitry seems to work as it should. Even the 2SA733APs stripped from that amp I found in the dumpster ;).

Did you get some error for fuses? I Didn`t tested AVR yet so don`t know is it really working or not.

Actually, as I started reprogramming the chip something went wrong and I'm now just getting a constant "unknown device" from the programmer software (as in MCU most likely damaged). No idea at all what might've happened, it did detect the chip ok before that. I'm using Ponyprog and an unbuffered STK200/300 parallel port cable. That is, my adapter has U1 omitted. This cable has worked fine before so no idea what went wrong this time.. Lucky for me these Atmega chips are cheap :)

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There is a very nice classic 'Moog Style' knob available at http://synthesizers.com/cabinets.html

Not cheap at $4, but a classic design.

For me, one of my x0x is going in the PT-10, looking fairly standard, unless I fall in love with Sasha's design, (which is highly likely given his track record). For the other, I fancy a larger 'retro' styled unit, black panel, 1950's knobs, and chrome bezeled LED's, thinking of old Lab gear style here. I really like my old valve tester, and would love to do something using this style.

Avo-CT160_thumb.jpg

2383_Avo-CT160_jpg4baaad604d86cf3793ee03

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For me, one of my x0x is going in the PT-10, looking fairly standard, unless I fall in love with Sasha's design, (which is highly likely given his track record).

Mike, I`m going to make my first box also pretty standard. Maybe I`ll just paint it other than black. I just really wanna get one fully functional first that is packed in box. I already have few houseless projects. I can always take it out and rehouse in some more decent enclosure, as it deserves.

I also like how x0x looks with those retro knobs on black panel...

1240994405_a500f0f34f_m.jpg

...but that knobs on your valve tester are hyper retro!  :)

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I'm planning on doing the same... First x0x will be using the x0x suggested parts and housed in a PT-10. The second one will be using the alternative parts, will be modified and be in a custom case.

My electronics teacher taught me how to make cases at school because and pretty much told is that it doesn't matter how crap a circuit looks or how bad the soldering is (as long as it works) as long as the case looks nice then the project will look professional.

How are the panels coming along?

          G

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great !

i think i already paid 1 or 2 pcb kit's...from Prof !

where are they? am'i wrong ?

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... it doesn't matter how crap a circuit looks or how bad the soldering is (as long as it works)

...or as long as you don`t gave to troubleshoot it. Man, I did few times something that wasn`t so neat inside and it is hell to understand what is happening. To make it good inside as it looks outside is very important. Not for other people, but for owner whether you need to fix it or upgrade it which is the case sooner or later. But I agree that packaging is selling the product. There are so many crappy products on market that looks nice so you say... I want to buy it.

How are the panels coming along?

Bad. The guy laser guy told me to call him tomorrow morning and see is the test panel done and will he ship it same day. >:(

great !

i think i already paid 1 or 2 pcb kit's...from Prof !

where are they? am'i wrong ?

Man, dealing with you is pretty difficult. I say it from few experiences from past. You tent to disappear and just show up and say... sorry I wasn`t around. I had trouble identifying your payment about x0x also, and you didn`t check your mail regularly. Same as before.

So, to inform you. If your email is la-denree@xxxx.xx you payed for 1 PCB set. I`m still having it as all other PCBs and I`ll ship it with panels. If you wish to receive just PCBs send me PM and I`ll send it to you tomorrow.

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...or as long as you don`t gave to troubleshoot it. Man, I did few times something that wasn`t so neat inside and it is hell to understand what is happening. To make it good inside as it looks outside is very important. Not for other people, but for owner whether you need to fix it or upgrade it which is the case sooner or later. But I agree that packaging is selling the product. There are so many crappy products on market that looks nice so you say... I want to buy it.

This is probably true now... At school we were making flashing LEDS on decade counters and the like so trouble shooting wasn't too difficult however bad the rats nest inside was.

Bad. The guy laser guy told me to call him tomorrow morning and see is the test panel done and will he ship it same day. >:(

Well at least we're getting there. It's going to be a little while untill all we have all the componants so there isn't any real urgency. I do sympathise with your stress levels though... It doesn't look like it's al been as straight forward as it should.

      G

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My electronics teacher taught me how to make cases at school because and pretty much told is that it doesn't matter how crap a circuit looks or how bad the soldering is (as long as it works) as long as the case looks nice then the project will look professional.

Some electronics "teacher" you had.. I don't know whether to laugh or get angry about knowing that teachers like this exist (and are actually allowed to teach). However, since laughing is generally better than being angry for anyone, I'll stick with that :D.

Passing teachings like this would get the dude most likely flogged by most professional repair personnel, if not sooner then during when some "outsider" would actually have to start repairing his "professional looking project". Believe me, do bad soldering on anything else than those simple led blinkers and in some years you'll have a pile of defunct crap in your hands. Making a given project professional is so much more than just what's on the outside. It's not going to carry your project far if the internals constantly break up.

And yes I know I'm gonna hate swapping leds from the current backlit buttons I have, if any of those actually ever break up. Luckily I don't have to pass my x0x on to anyone for performing that ;).

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At least i can build a good box!

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Everybody can build good box, it is just a matter of taste and alot of effort rather than money. But seams not enough people are motivated. The point is.. everything is important whether it is DIY or factory made product! The look, sound, mechanical construction, ergonomics, artwork part selection...

People here used to say if somebody made something really good quality... "He made it as for himself" So, we can all make our boxes really for ourself, and better than "real thing". ;)

I dare you to do it.

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Just to get back to something x0x-related..

I got a new chip on thursday and as far as the MCU is concerned, the sequencer seems to be now running as it should. Plenty of defunct leds on my custom keyboard though, so no need to guess what I'll be working on next. Leds that are soldered directly to the board work fine, so it's not a tough one guessing that the problem lies somewhere with my custom cabling ;). Anyway, in case anyone might be wondering about (or having problems with) the fuse programming, here's the configuration I'm using at the moment:

- bod0level = 0

- bod1level = 0

- bod2level = 1

- ckdiv8 = 1

- sut0 = 0

- sut1 = 0

- cksel0 = 1

- cksel1 = 1

- cksel2 = 1

- cksel3 = 1

- bootsz0 = 0

- bootsz1 = 0

- ocden = 1

- wdton = 1

- eesave = 1

- ckout = 1

- m161c = 1

No problems at all with the programmer this time, so I'm totally clueless what might've happened with the previous chip  ???.

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Good to know you sort it out. I obviously need to do some reading as I never configured anything when programming mine. I even not sure where to configure it.  :P  I was expecting it is straightforward procedure as with PICs so I treat it that way. No fuse errors reported back. ::)

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should i have gotten anything by now?  pcb? rare parts? panel?

ultra

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Ultra, you`ll receive the panel, sub panel and 2 PCBs in one package once the german guy send it. I hope it will do it next week.

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ok sasha,

i don't care that i haven't gotten it yet.  but as you know i haven't done a good job of paying attention to this order and i wanted to make sure i'm not missing anything.  thanks!

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If you didn`t see in the panel thread... the packages has been sent today. ;)

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Modifications:

main PCB will have all buttons inline, so button caps can be rotated 90 degrees and won`t stick out of line.

io PCB will have pads for connecting the wires for power switch so no trace cutting is needed.

SHIT!!!!!

i spent all night desoldering parts from the i/o board because of this... couldn't understand why i have no voltage nowhere!!!!!

shit. my fault.  >:(

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I`m sorry to hear that. You should always troubleshoot from the start of the chain. You surely tested the adapter and it is just a short way from the connector to the diodes. Also, the pads are on same spot where is suggested on ladyada to cut the trace and mount the wires for the switch.

We all had enough time to read everything about this project while waiting for parts we need to start building it. I wish your more luck in future with this project.

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SHIT!!!!!

i spent all night desoldering parts from the i/o board because of this... couldn't understand why i have no voltage nowhere!!!!!

shit. my fault.  >:(

Is it bad of my to laugh, just a little?  :-[

Had to do some de-soldering on my mb-6582.. a leg was bent over on a 40 pin IC socket... had to be cut off  >:(

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We all had enough time to read everything about this project while waiting for parts

i started to read into details when "time has came". Somehow missed that line.  :P

no matter, now at least psu section works fine. ain't it too close to have 15VDC on 2200uf 16V caps?... i think replacing them with 25V ones will increase them in height - which is bad, as xoxio is waiting to be placed in there. 

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...ain't it too close to have 15VDC on 2200uf 16V caps?... i think replacing them with 25V ones will increase them in height - which is bad, as xoxio is waiting to be placed in there. 

It is close, but I think there is enough headroom. BTW 25V caps don`t have to be bigger than 16V. All of the 25V caps I find locally are smaller than those 16V. Some 16V are pretty small and some are pretty big. It probably have to do with different manufacturer.

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