[Narwhal]

So I thought I'd share some pictures of my MB-6582 as it is now.  It seems to be working excellently, but I do have a question.

When I first started it up, using a the SID V2 software several versions ago, it would start on the screen that is shown below.  Now when I turn it on it starts on a screen that looks like this:

Trn Fin Por Phs PW <>
  0  0    0    0 800

I've learned that pressing SHIFT-ENTER while turning it on clones the application to the other cores.  Is there another button combo that resets setting?  Or is there a good reason it starts on the strange screen shown above?

Thanks for such amazing work Thorsten and Wilba and everyone whos hard work was involved in this.  I'm really impressed by this synth.

[TK.]

Thanks! Great to see the first working MB-6582 from this batch run :)

It looks like the "OSC Ctrl" button is permanently active (-> permanent connection to ground). When I press it during power-on, I get the same screen.

For cloning it's sufficient to press Enter (in the documentation called: MENU) w/o the shift button during startup.
All special button combinations are listed at the bottom of this page:
http://www.ucapps.de..._manual_fp.html

Best Regards, Thorsten.

[julienvoirin]

Quote

For cloning it's sufficient to press Enter

it only clone the appli or mios+appli ? i ask cause i received the pic today and wonder if i have to burn them with mios, changing the ID.

Narwhal, were did you get the switches ?

[bugfight]

Quote

Thanks! Great to see the first working MB-6582 from this batch run :)

hehe not quite the first...
*whack*

[TK.]

Quote

Quote

For cloning it's sufficient to press Enter

it only clone the appli or mios+appli ? i ask cause i received the pic today and wonder if i have to burn them with mios, changing the ID.

Unfortunately MIOS cannot be cloned (I hope that v1.9f was the last release with dedicated changes for MBSID V2)

So, you need to upload MIOS to each single core, thereafter change the ID if this hasn't been done yet (it's a static change which won't be overwritten by new MIOS releases), thereafter upload the application.

For future application updates you can use the cloning function.

Best Regards, Thorsten.

[Narwhal]

Quote

Narwhal, were did you get the switches ?

Many of the parts you see on the CS are from Mouser

Tact buttons:
http://www.mouser.co...alkey688-SKHHDT

Encoders
http://www.mouser.co...318-ENC160F-24P

all of the diodes were either ones I had laying around, or from a package of 100 that I bought from Mar Vac Electronics in Costa Mesa.

LEDs were an eBay deal.  (Waiting for the CS panel before I mount all of the LEDs though).

[Wilba]

Obviously if you got this far, you know that J11 is used to control which PIC's TX pin is connected to MIDI Out. This allows you to upload MIOS and the MB-SID firmware to each Core with feedback (checksum validation in MIOS Studio). Once the MB-SID firmware is on each Core, you only need to upload new versions to the Master Core (PIC ID #0) and then cloning to the Slaves can be done as described in the manual. The beauty of this system is you get a reliable upload to all PICs without needing to open the case and redirect the MIDI Out.

While it's good to see a control surface PCB nearly finished like this, you really should have waited for the frontpanel, as advised by me many times. You will now have a lot of difficulty marking where on the panel to put the JB-Weld for gluing the threaded spacers, and also, with the encoder shafts taller than the switch shafts, soldering the LEDs in place at the right height will also be very difficult, because you can't lay it down on a flat surface with the panel face 1.5mm above the surface (i.e. the height of the switches above the panel). I suppose there are workarounds to both these problems, and you can now have fun discovering these workarounds! *whack*

I advise other people to be patient and wait until they receive their panels before soldering anything to the control surface PCB, and even then, wait until I write a step-by-step guide with photos (which will happen within 24 hours of me receiving my panels!) For more information, read this:

http://www.midibox.o...struction_guide

Narwhal, looks great by the way, but to everyone else, I'll say it again louder...

Be patient and wait until you receive your panels before soldering anything to the control surface PCB  *whack*

[Narwhal]

All good tips and I wouldn't recommend anyone follow suit unless you are as certain as I am that I can engineer my way past those perceived roadblocks.  :D

Thank you Wilba for bringing those gotchas up, it was certainly a help knowing about them so I could plan for that.

I'm not worried.  I've actually already made myself a panel, I just haven't shown it to anyone.  ;D

[Wilba]

Cool, I had a feeling you knew what you were doing *whack*

[Narwhal]

After desoldering several switches and diodes, I found my problem with the switch seeming to be stuck down.

It was some kind of strange interaction between the LCD and the control surface panel, possibly involving the electrical tape that I was trying to temporarily use to isolate the two.  When I removed the LCD and the electrical tape, everything started working perfectly.  I've put it all back together nearly identically without the electrical tape, and its working great.  Go figure.

[Wilba]

I probably haven't documented this yet... the switches that overlap the LCD PCB should be soldered on the top side of the PCB and afterwards the leads cut as short as possible on the bottom side, so that the LCD can be mounted as close as possible. The electrical tape is a good idea, I used plain sticky tape on mine, perhaps even a strip of card would work better.

[julienvoirin]

For Wilba :
you said in the wiki that the tact switch MUST be 13 mm high. I have bought today switches that correspond to a height h=9,5mm according to the data sheet published in the wiki :
http://www3.alps.co....t/SKHH/SKHH.PDF

The total height is 13mm (9,5+3,5 mm). Did I bought well ?? 3,5mm correponding to the legs soldered in the PCB. If yes, RAM has a lot in Paris Nation for 0,20 € each, and ECE too.

[Altitude]

Julien, those will be too short.  You need the ones that have an H=13mm

[Wilba]

Yes, they need to be 13mm from the base of the switch (i.e. the top of the PCB) to the top of the shaft.
The gap between PCB and panel is 10mm, the panel is 1.5mm, leaving 1.5mm of shaft above the panel.

[julienvoirin]

Hi all
and is there a manner to use the 9,5 mm ones ?
bei reichelt is the versandkosten as high than the items !!

[Wilba]

No they are too short for the 10mm gap.

[Twin-X]

Quote

Hi all
and is there a manner to use the 9,5 mm ones ?
bei reichelt is the versandkosten as high than the items !!

Yes there is ! Use a small pen to press your buttons instead of your fingers. :D :D :D

[nILS]

Quote

Quote

Hi all
and is there a manner to use the 9,5 mm ones ?
bei reichelt is the versandkosten as high than the items !!

Yes there is ! Use a small pen to press your buttons instead of your fingers. :D :D :D

*whack*

[Twin-X]

Quote

Quote

Quote

Hi all
and is there a manner to use the 9,5 mm ones ?
bei reichelt is the versandkosten as high than the items !!

Yes there is ! Use a small pen to press your buttons instead of your fingers. :D :D :D

*whack*

Heheh i could not resist.

These are the correct ones: http://www.reichelt....33d604729b45fe6

[julienvoirin]

what is this 10 mm gap ?? the space for the display ? or the space used by the neck of the encoder ?

by default would be someone german ready to buy me switches by reichelt ? ausland orders must be more than 150€ ... just missing tact switches.