Narwhal Posted October 3, 2007 Report Share Posted October 3, 2007 So I thought I'd share some pictures of my MB-6582 as it is now. It seems to be working excellently, but I do have a question.When I first started it up, using a the SID V2 software several versions ago, it would start on the screen that is shown below. Now when I turn it on it starts on a screen that looks like this:Trn Fin Por Phs PW <> 0 0 0 0 800I've learned that pressing SHIFT-ENTER while turning it on clones the application to the other cores. Is there another button combo that resets setting? Or is there a good reason it starts on the strange screen shown above?Thanks for such amazing work Thorsten and Wilba and everyone whos hard work was involved in this. I'm really impressed by this synth.MB-6582_002.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK. Posted October 3, 2007 Report Share Posted October 3, 2007 Thanks! Great to see the first working MB-6582 from this batch run :)It looks like the "OSC Ctrl" button is permanently active (-> permanent connection to ground). When I press it during power-on, I get the same screen.For cloning it's sufficient to press Enter (in the documentation called: MENU) w/o the shift button during startup.All special button combinations are listed at the bottom of this page:http://www.ucapps.de/midibox_sid_manual_fp.htmlBest Regards, Thorsten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julienvoirin Posted October 3, 2007 Report Share Posted October 3, 2007 For cloning it's sufficient to press Enterit only clone the appli or mios+appli ? i ask cause i received the pic today and wonder if i have to burn them with mios, changing the ID.Narwhal, were did you get the switches ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugfight Posted October 3, 2007 Report Share Posted October 3, 2007 Thanks! Great to see the first working MB-6582 from this batch run :)hehe not quite the first...*whack* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK. Posted October 3, 2007 Report Share Posted October 3, 2007 it only clone the appli or mios+appli ? i ask cause i received the pic today and wonder if i have to burn them with mios, changing the ID.Unfortunately MIOS cannot be cloned (I hope that v1.9f was the last release with dedicated changes for MBSID V2)So, you need to upload MIOS to each single core, thereafter change the ID if this hasn't been done yet (it's a static change which won't be overwritten by new MIOS releases), thereafter upload the application. For future application updates you can use the cloning function.Best Regards, Thorsten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Narwhal Posted October 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2007 Narwhal, were did you get the switches ?Many of the parts you see on the CS are from MouserTact buttons:http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=SKHHDTA010virtualkey68800000virtualkey688-SKHHDTEncodershttp://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=318-ENC160F-24Pvirtualkey14860000virtualkey318-ENC160F-24Pall of the diodes were either ones I had laying around, or from a package of 100 that I bought from Mar Vac Electronics in Costa Mesa.LEDs were an eBay deal. (Waiting for the CS panel before I mount all of the LEDs though). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted October 4, 2007 Report Share Posted October 4, 2007 Obviously if you got this far, you know that J11 is used to control which PIC's TX pin is connected to MIDI Out. This allows you to upload MIOS and the MB-SID firmware to each Core with feedback (checksum validation in MIOS Studio). Once the MB-SID firmware is on each Core, you only need to upload new versions to the Master Core (PIC ID #0) and then cloning to the Slaves can be done as described in the manual. The beauty of this system is you get a reliable upload to all PICs without needing to open the case and redirect the MIDI Out.While it's good to see a control surface PCB nearly finished like this, you really should have waited for the frontpanel, as advised by me many times. You will now have a lot of difficulty marking where on the panel to put the JB-Weld for gluing the threaded spacers, and also, with the encoder shafts taller than the switch shafts, soldering the LEDs in place at the right height will also be very difficult, because you can't lay it down on a flat surface with the panel face 1.5mm above the surface (i.e. the height of the switches above the panel). I suppose there are workarounds to both these problems, and you can now have fun discovering these workarounds! *whack* I advise other people to be patient and wait until they receive their panels before soldering anything to the control surface PCB, and even then, wait until I write a step-by-step guide with photos (which will happen within 24 hours of me receiving my panels!) For more information, read this:http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/wilba_mb_6582_control_surface_construction_guideNarwhal, looks great by the way, but to everyone else, I'll say it again louder...Be patient and wait until you receive your panels before soldering anything to the control surface PCB *whack* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Narwhal Posted October 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2007 All good tips and I wouldn't recommend anyone follow suit unless you are as certain as I am that I can engineer my way past those perceived roadblocks. :DThank you Wilba for bringing those gotchas up, it was certainly a help knowing about them so I could plan for that.I'm not worried. I've actually already made myself a panel, I just haven't shown it to anyone. ;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted October 4, 2007 Report Share Posted October 4, 2007 Cool, I had a feeling you knew what you were doing *whack* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Narwhal Posted October 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2007 After desoldering several switches and diodes, I found my problem with the switch seeming to be stuck down.It was some kind of strange interaction between the LCD and the control surface panel, possibly involving the electrical tape that I was trying to temporarily use to isolate the two. When I removed the LCD and the electrical tape, everything started working perfectly. I've put it all back together nearly identically without the electrical tape, and its working great. Go figure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted October 5, 2007 Report Share Posted October 5, 2007 I probably haven't documented this yet... the switches that overlap the LCD PCB should be soldered on the top side of the PCB and afterwards the leads cut as short as possible on the bottom side, so that the LCD can be mounted as close as possible. The electrical tape is a good idea, I used plain sticky tape on mine, perhaps even a strip of card would work better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julienvoirin Posted October 7, 2007 Report Share Posted October 7, 2007 For Wilba : you said in the wiki that the tact switch MUST be 13 mm high. I have bought today switches that correspond to a height h=9,5mm according to the data sheet published in the wiki :http://www3.alps.co.jp/WebObjects/catalog.woa/PDF/E/Switch/Tact/SKHH/SKHH.PDFThe total height is 13mm (9,5+3,5 mm). Did I bought well ?? 3,5mm correponding to the legs soldered in the PCB. If yes, RAM has a lot in Paris Nation for 0,20 € each, and ECE too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted October 7, 2007 Report Share Posted October 7, 2007 Julien, those will be too short. You need the ones that have an H=13mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted October 7, 2007 Report Share Posted October 7, 2007 Yes, they need to be 13mm from the base of the switch (i.e. the top of the PCB) to the top of the shaft.The gap between PCB and panel is 10mm, the panel is 1.5mm, leaving 1.5mm of shaft above the panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julienvoirin Posted October 8, 2007 Report Share Posted October 8, 2007 Hi alland is there a manner to use the 9,5 mm ones ?bei reichelt is the versandkosten as high than the items !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted October 8, 2007 Report Share Posted October 8, 2007 No they are too short for the 10mm gap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twin-X Posted October 9, 2007 Report Share Posted October 9, 2007 Hi alland is there a manner to use the 9,5 mm ones ?bei reichelt is the versandkosten as high than the items !!Yes there is ! Use a small pen to press your buttons instead of your fingers. :D :D :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nILS Posted October 9, 2007 Report Share Posted October 9, 2007 Yes there is ! Use a small pen to press your buttons instead of your fingers. :D :D :D*whack* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twin-X Posted October 9, 2007 Report Share Posted October 9, 2007 *whack*Heheh i could not resist.These are the correct ones: http://www.reichelt.de/?;ACTION=3;LA=2;GROUP=C223;GROUPID=3278;ARTICLE=27894;START=32;SORT=artnr;OFFSET=16;SID=26pDaaiKwQARoAADGVPMI0b41a28c67ae6a85c33d604729b45fe6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julienvoirin Posted October 9, 2007 Report Share Posted October 9, 2007 what is this 10 mm gap ?? the space for the display ? or the space used by the neck of the encoder ?by default would be someone german ready to buy me switches by reichelt ? ausland orders must be more than 150€ ... just missing tact switches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goblinz Posted October 9, 2007 Report Share Posted October 9, 2007 The minimum order for Reichelt is a bit of a problem. I haven't got my PCB's yet or the rest of the components (except the SIDS which are on the way) so am waiting to see if SmashTV is going to be able to offer PCBS along with the base kit and maybe even the control surface PCB and parts (pretty please :D). If he's not able to offer the parts then I'm definitely up for getting together in a group to make up the minimum order cost from Reichelt. I'll know more when I manage to get hold of some PCBs. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nILS Posted October 9, 2007 Report Share Posted October 9, 2007 I just ordered at reichelt. I coudl order for you though. This would of course cost you the shipping twice... Maybe someone is about to order anyways? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheAncientOne Posted October 9, 2007 Report Share Posted October 9, 2007 I've jst ordered some to try out, from RS in the UK. They are packed in 20's and are a bit more than Reichelt, though, since I have an account, there is no minimum order.They are Tyco Alcoswitch buttons, and look very similar. I've ordered 1 bag of 20, (because they can be used on my Step A SID and my FM, so they won't be a loss if they don't fit the 6582. I don't mind making up a few batches for MIDIboxers. In the UK, they cost UK£2.23 for 20, (about 3.21 Euro for 20 at todays rate), you'd need 6 bags (giving you some spares) for a 6582, costing around 20 Euro plus postage from the UK.The RS page is: http://rswww.comBest wishesMikeEdited to add: sorry - I posted a URL: that used my personal login, which timed out. You'll have search for the part number: 479-1457 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julienvoirin Posted October 9, 2007 Report Share Posted October 9, 2007 thanks guysRS seems only working in the UK. >:(but i have looked my pcb and tried with an encoder and a 9,5mm tact sw. it can work if i remove all the noses of the encoders (the small metallic part at the forward of the encoder), as i already did with a grind.(une meule). the display will have to be deeper, but it is good as it will avoid short circuits with the pcb and the switches.so i guess that this 10mm gap is the encoder nose ?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kartoshka Posted October 9, 2007 Report Share Posted October 9, 2007 what smashtv says about CS kits? .. it can be a good idea to get everything from one source like him.i'm interested in them, but i don't wanna get them twice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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