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Wilba

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Everything posted by Wilba

  1. Maybe things are quicker to arrive when customs don't need to look at it and calculate how much tax you have to pay.
  2. The other good reason for using IC sockets is it's a lot easier to replace an IC in a socket than desolder the IC. If it was me, I'd take the time to desolder it now and put in a socket. Considering I've had two optocouplers die on me for no apparent reason, I'd rather have the ability to easily replace it later if it does fail. Also, I'd prefer to save the pads from being overheated and pulled off the PCB and just cut the leads (on the top side) and desolder the leads one at a time (pull it out with pliers while heating the joint). I'm just telling you what I would do and why, not telling you to do the same... if it works as is, it's quite OK to leave it there, it will work just as well as if it was in a socket (even better).
  3. The tally is 76 already... looks very likely that we'll reach 100 within a few weeks so I will make arrangements for the bulk order. People should still add their order to the wiki as instructed, this now becomes the official list if there are more orders than stock.
  4. They are new-old-stock, but unlike the SIDs, I probably can't test them before selling, unless someone can work out a way of socketing these chips. Can you even get a ZIF (Textool) socket for SOIC chips?
  5. I don't know if removing this 1k resistor is OK or not. I do know the 6582 is identical to the 8580, in all the audio tests I have done. Originally the SID module schematics suggested using 6.8nF but 22nF is what is actually in the datasheet and what the C64 used for 8580 and what HardSID uses, so now 22nF is the recommended value. Also tests have shown this gives the optimum frequency cutoff range and is less steppy at the bottom end. Best filter caps to use has been discussed in other threads on the forum many times...
  6. Note for MB-SID V2, the "ensembles" are stored on the 8th bankstick. You should consider this when making the board, as it's much more useful to have "ensembles" than an extra 128 patches.
  7. Nicely done! Can you tell us what make and model that case is?
  8. A nice easy way to get bipolar from a single AC supply (i.e. a "walwart", AC adapter): http://www.paia.com/ProdArticles/dual-ribbon-howto.htm I like it because I don't need to mess about with mains voltages. I use bigger filter caps because if MBHP uses 2200uF to smooth out AC before a regulator, then I should do it also (since I know no better). Note that you're only going to get half (?) the max current... i.e. a 500mA 9V AC supply can probably only be turned into 250mA +9V DC and 250mA -9V DC. Hope that helps.
  9. Sorry... he asked, I replied.
  10. Anyone with this: for a signature is hard to take seriously.
  11. Since people will typically need a complete "chipset", it's easier for me to run a bulk order along those lines. If you have an OPL3 board with a YMF262 and one YAC512 already soldered and just need an extra YAC512, then I'll help you out with one YAC512. Post a picture of your PCB with a missing YAC512 and I'll post you a sound card with a YAC512 on it. This bulk order is primarily aimed at people who can't be bothered finding and desoldering these SMD chips... even if you found two sound cards on eBay for $1 each, when you add the postage costs and time spent desoldering, $10 for a complete set sounds a lot more attractive.
  12. Rather than just changing the front panel, consider modifying (simplifying?) the control surface design. You're stuck with 2x40 display but there's no reason you can't tweak the "matrix" to suit a smaller panel.
  13. btw, you should wait for the panel before soldering the switches anyway, not only to check for fit, but also to use an unsoldered PCB to mark the panel where the spacers should be glued. See my pathetically brief (and temporary) control surface construction guide here: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/wilba_mb_6582_control_surface_construction_guide
  14. Those switches are made to the exact same dimensions as the ALPS "SKHH" range. I've seen dozens of manufacturers all making the same type of tactile switch, obviously to supplying parts for existing PCB/panel designs. The net result is I could probably buy these switches for $0.05 each direct from a factory in China, instead of paying $0.30 each for "genuine" ALPS tactile switches from the local electronics store... but the latter is less hassle and I don't need to run a bulk order to get rid of 1,900 switches just to save $10.
  15. I'm going to put four Core modules and four OPL3 modules on one PCB that fits in a PT-10 case and a separate PCB for the control surface.... ;D just kidding. I don't have definite plans yet, although obviously I'm going to build at least one MB-FM.
  16. All the encoders were shipped today. Anyone interested in running another bulk order of these encoders should PM/email me and I'll give them the details.
  17. EDIT: it is no longer proposed, it is real: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,10477.0.html ******************** The proposal is to buy approximately 100 OPL3 “chipsets” (1x YMF262 + 2x YAC512) with each chipset costing between US$8-US$10. If you are interested, go to the wiki page I have set up here: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/wilba_opl3_bulk_order Click on the "Edit this page" button (top left corner) and add your MIDIbox username and quantity of OPL3 chipsets you would like. If I get enough interest, I'll arrange a bulk order.
  18. Where is 13.5mm specified? I've always specified ALPS tactile switch SKHHDTA010 which is h=13mm. With the PCB being spaced 10mm behind the panel, and the panel being 1.5mm, this leaves 1.5mm of switch shaft protruding from panel. Even if your switches were 0.5mm shorter than the spec, it would still be OK without any changes to PCB/panel gap, as 1mm of shaft protruding is enough to press it - these switches only have a travel of 0.5mm anyway.
  19. I just received the shipment of encoders. I avoided customs duty, but a packed box of 100 is just on 1kg so that takes the postage cost up from expected. Therefore my estimate wasn't far off, even allowing for exchange rate fluctuation. The actual cost, including shipping, PayPal fees is: To Europe: 89.95 AUD (53.61 EUR) To USA: 81.98 AUD (72.64 USD) I'll start packing them tonight and hopefully can post 15 boxes on Friday.
  20. Congratulations JV, it looks great!
  21. There are still plenty left if anyone is interested.
  22. Count me in for 1000 of the black ones. OK maybe just 100.
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