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In mios32_config file add : #define MIOS32_DONT_USE_IIC and the pin of J4 will not be initialized as I2C. Then initialize the pin as Input e.g. PB6 GPIO_InitTypeDef GPIO_InitStructure; GPIO_StructInit(&GPIO_InitStructure); GPIO_InitStructure.GPIO_Speed = GPIO_Speed_50MHz; GPIO_InitStructure.GPIO_Pin = GPIO_Pin_6; GPIO_InitStructure.GPIO_Mode = GPIO_Mode_IN; GPIO_InitStructure.GPIO_PuPd = GPIO_PuPd_NOPULL; GPIO_Init(GPIOB, &GPIO_InitStructure); Finally to get value: u8 value = (u8)MIOS32_SYS_STM_PINGET(GPIOB, GPIO_Pin_6); Best Bruno

Hi Phatline, You can use the pin you want, all pins are GPIO as first function. Just don't take something already used(SDcard, midi, etc..). You want input then don't use 5V level output pin(SC, SO, RC) like the one of J19 or J8/9, they can not be input. But you can use J4 for example. Best regards Bruno

Now that SmashTV has closed up shop, I’m not sure about this one. You might make a post in the classifieds forum here, or maybe someone will see your post here and offer you some. Can’t hurt either to email Modular Addict about whether they’d consider carrying them; they were extremely responsive when I suggested they carry the MB6582-specific knobs. My suggestion: don’t use a C64 power supply. The originals will flake out on you, the replacements are pricey, and overall, it’s completely unnecessary and impractical. I wrote a detailed guide on how to modify the MB-6582 to run on a single-supply, based on altitude’s original work on the subject. edit: Here is the relevant tutorial. Really can’t recommend this enough. http://midibox.org/forums/topic/20376-one-mb-6582-one-power-supply-a-tutorial/ The tutorial mentioned above on how to use a single-supply also explains your options for a mixed SID environment. It’s a pretty trivial change if I remember correctly. I think 6581s run a bit hotter than 8580/6582s, but not significantly so, and installing the power option without actually installing 6581s has no downside except for the added cost of another Vreg. That said, I agree with the poster above who suggested sticking with an 8580/6582-exclusive setup. I know some people are in love with the 6581 sound, but the 8580 is (IMHO) the superior choice for use in a dedicated musical instrument. Lower noise, better filter/resonance, full use of combined waveforms... As well, I gotta agree that it’s nice to have four full stereo voices that all sound alike. Anyway, that’s just my totally subjective opinion on the matter; no matter what you choose, it’s not hard to implement the power supply. As far as I know, yes. Their boards are identical in design to the most recent Mb-6582 boards from Smash. I don’t know much about swapping out the LCD, but I know folks have done it. Run a search of the forum and you’ll find threads about it. IMHO, not really worth it. My LCD was affordable and looks pretty great; there’s no practical reason to “upgrade” and there’s very little cosmetic reason even. I’ll find a link to the one I used. I really like it. It’s audible “in the room” so to speak, though quite quiet still, but more importantly, I cannot hear it in the MB-6582’s output. edit: the fan I used can be found here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NEMGCIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aTqOBbTFRP1N8 That said, it’s probably not necessary. Heat sinks...for the SID chips? I didn’t bother; I don’t think most folks bother. If you’re installing a fan, I definitely don’t think it’s necessary. If you’re using 8580s, probably not necessary. If you forgo the fan *and* install 6581s...I would still rank it as “probably not necessary though not a bad idea.” Sorry though, I’m not sure which heat sinks would work either. Yeah, the panels are definitely the single most expensive part. There are a few options though. The acrylic could work. Not sure how well JB-Weld adheres to it. Importantly, none of the controls are panel mounted, so the panel itself won’t be under much stress. I’ve seen some MB-6582s encased completely in acrylic; not sure if I’ve seen any using the PAC-Tec case with acrylic panels though. Julian, a fellow MIDIboxer, makes high-quality panels. That might be the £85 option you saw—thebeast.co.uk or something? Pricey, but by all accounts worth it. Front Panel Express is also pricey, but also high quality. Could be a good option if you want something very fancy and customized. What I found to be the most cost-effective option, and what I used on my own personal MB-6582, is having PCBs printed on aluminum, with the soldermask as the main panel color and the silkscreen for my labels (you can even go crazy and use a copper layer for additional decoration). AllPCB in particular can print PCBs on aluminum, though even the normal PCB material makes a decent panel. The initial order is about as expensive as going with Julian or FPE, but the minim order is 5 panels, so if you don’t mind waiting, you can make most of your money back by selling the extra panels here on the forums. This option is nice because you can fully customize your panel at almost no extra cost. One caveat: these are still PCBs, from a PCB maker, so they are manufactured and shipped as if they would never be seen by an end user. Expect blemishes, scuffs, and small imperfections. I am 100% happy with how my panels turned out, and I can’t see the imperfections unless I get up close and inspect, but if you’re the type who demands total perfection, maybe not the option for you. Hoo boy. Those fucking power switches... I went through hell to track one down. The switch—along with the 7-pin DIN power port that is no longer necessary if you’re not using a C64 PSU—make a strong argument for customizing your rear panel. What I ended up doing was salvaging a switch and DIN connector from a busted C64. I might not have gone this route, but a forum member offered them to me, and I figured “what the hell?” They fit the PCB foot prints (cuts down on wiring) and they fit the existing panel designs (though it’s not a big deal to alter those designs). So if you have a busted C64 handy and don’t mind butchering it, it *is* a pretty handy option. If you don’t have access to those original parts, I would go with panel-mounted parts instead. The switch does have a modern equivalent, but I had trouble actually tracking down someone who actually had them for sale. BE CAREFUL. There is an easy-to-find part that *looks* like an identical match, but actually is not; the pins have a slightly different spacing or oft height or something. Instead, just get a standard toggle switch and modify the rear panel design to accommodate it. Same goes for the power jack. I don’t think 7-pin DIN ports are impossible to find, but they aren’t exactly common, and if you’re using a single-supply PSU, all you need is a standard power jack. I used the 7-pin DIN because I had it handy, but it required me to buy a male DIN plug and modify my power cord. A standard panel-mounted barrel jack is probably the better option. If you do a PCB panel, modifying the panel designs before having them manufactured is not as scary as it might sound. I had zero experience with PCB design software or panel design before I started, and I just learned along the way. I didn’t end up modifying the power switch/jack parts of the panel, but I did alter a few other things about my panels and it went quite smoothly. I added some graphics, text and mounting screwholes to the front panel, and on the rear I added a 1/4” “Mix Out” jack with label, right above the power switch. edit: here is a thread with some information about the correct switches, as well as a few other notes on the BOM that might come in handy: http://midibox.org/forums/topic/20281-mb-6582-bom-questions/#comment-176598 edit: and here is the thread where I was selling my PCB panels. I’m all sold out now, but it has lots of pictures to give you an idea what these types of panels look like in the end. http://midibox.org/forums/topic/20402-fs-cheap-mb-6582-panels/#comment-177811 Congrats on the impending MB-6582!

Hi, After some try, I'm able to use the second USB OTG, the USB_OTG_HS in full speed with the embedded FS phy. The idea is to keep the USB_OTG_FS as it is in dual role with ID pin. And add the USB_OTG_HS in FS Host Only, to connect a B-device only. It works fine for HID(Keyboard and Mouse), I will complete the classes with MSC(Mass Storage), maybe MIDI of course. Here, MIOS Studio is connected in USB(normal one) and I plug a mouse first then a keyboard to the other USB: ( did this test with a modified wCore) This is very difficult too implement on a mbhp disco or wCore cause the DP/DM pins are used for J8/9 SI/SO(PB14/PB15). BUT! I can do it on the dipCoreF4, by moving SI/SO on other alternate function pins. => Then like I said I will make some changes on the STM32F405 pins and on MIOS32 side. Add pins for DP/DM and Over-current/VBUS Drive GPIO of the second USB on the dip40(other extra pins). And modify the dipBoardF4 for that purpose of course. Have a good WE Best Bruno