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  1. Today
  2. Hi Theo A 2 min search at mouser return this Best Zam
  3. IIC will work you will just not have midi in unless you use midi on the usb interface. You can always use a midi routing program like midi ox on a pc to route to the midi in for now.
  4. Seq V4+ news?

    Yes Julian not Adrian.
  5. Hi all, I'm in the process of collecting all the components needed to build a Midibox FM, and I have a few questions about the 14.318 MHz crystal oscillator used on the OPL3 module. If I were to get the one listed by TK on Reichelt I think the shipping (to NZ) would be pretty expensive. Does anyone know where I could find an appropriate oscillator from an alternative source like mouser or ebay (or from a midiboxer with spares)? I'm not that confident about knowing what else might work. It's hard for me to tell, but looking at the pcb layout it seems that it accommodates two different package sizes. Is that correct?  Cheers, Theo
  6. Yesterday
  7. Seq V4+ news?

    @gerald.wert That link above is for Julian no?  I don’t think I’ve seen a link to Adrian’s stuff
  8. ok everything is working fine, just finished screwing the stuff together, now MIDI Ports are missing, and then I am ready to go, think they are still on the way from modularaddict, but igot some IIC MIDI outs with the PICs on, maybe ill try those first as long as the midi is on its way.    
  9. Seq V4+ news?

    +1 no drag soldering you will make a lot of bridges too. I read about drag soldering on the internet. It sounded promising. +1 solder bulb way better than braid with way less heating. Braid also tends to leave little wires that make the bridge worse. Sometimes the mask is super tight and you can not heat the pad but if you can it is way better. Especially with the thin solder, th esolder wicks and flows right in where you put it. +1 to way faster unless you have to trouble shoot...
  10. Seq V4+ news?

    Just a few notes on SMT soldering. The process can be a whole lot quicker than THT, as you never need to clip a lead. It's true that you can't easily desolder chips, but the advice about hot air rework stations is sound. I've done the same before, even reusing 600 LEDs for the BLM. Practising on a test PCB is also smart. The die inside a SOIC chip is probably the same as in a DIP. The package and leads are much smaller for SMT though, and with DIY you're normally socketing the ICs. So overheating is an issue. I suggest the "tack" method to anchor one corner, correcting the alignment then going down just one row at a time. Hold the soldering iron at a low angle (close to the PCB) if possible and heat the pad, then apply solder to the pin. This keeps the heat source away from the IC and uses surface tension to wick the solder in. I suggest against "drag soldering" as it's possible to scratch the soldermask. For bridges, I've found an el cheapo solder sucker removes the excess quite well.    
  11. Seq V4+ news?

    Add some sort of SD Card receiver to that list and that's it, you have a basic SeqV4. There is a spot on the core board for an SD Card, but then it's inside the case.
  12. Update #1: got the testprograms running the: wilba-seq-cs-hw-test-blinking.hex   so i know my encoders do all work, but the buttons do also work, but i dont know the exact numeration and if its important?   for example in the pdf the bottom right button is named: S51 and the LED is L51 But the program tells me it is Button Nr.6 and Led Nr 51 is the green one above the song button, in  the pdf named: L20   i dont know if that should be aligned, anyway i keep testing.   i dont know exactly how to flash back another testfile into the STM32 :) mios is not detected , hm maybe i need to flash it again, but i cant imagine that, i will keep on trying.
  13. You have to set the hardware file up for the front panel you are using. Just use mios studio to edit the MBSEQ_HW.v4 file  it or load the one for wilbas front panel if that is what you built from the SVN on your sd card. There are a lot of options so it depends on what you have built but you need to setup what you have for it to work right.
  14. got it working, but thanks for reading, i was a little fast, but you know how it is, just writing about my problems usually gives me another point of thinking about it, so the LCDs are working, now i am a bit struggling with the menu pages and wheather my fronpanel is working , i guess it should not work at all if the SI SO would been in wrong alignment,?   ok i think something is not yet working, maybe its a simple thing like , wrong file on the sd card. Then i think my rotary encoders have wrong detents, and i have not quite figured out which LCD is the left and which the right? I assume the logo appears on the right one on startup. My buttons dont seem to work , but it could also be that i simply dont understand the usage yet, I did try to do the thing from the beginners guide: press menu and events... but somethign else is happening, And yes i think something is fishy, when i press the Divider button ( 5  or E ) the right diplay says:   step view 113-128   so i think something is wrong, i will check on how to get the file to the sd card again and hope i will have it all working in an hour :)    
  15. Mongbox Enclosure

    Looking into doing a build with this enclosure -- could you explain how the glass works?  Where did you get that cut -- if at Ponoko, which material is it?  Do you have close-up pictures of the glass parts and how they fit in the enclosure?
  16. Seq V4+ news?

    So, digging around a bit, if I wanted to build the Mongbox version of the SeqV4 (that is, no modifications), I'd need: - 1x STM32F4 Core board - 2x MIDI IO boards - 1x Wilba CS board   Plus all the gubbins to fill those boards out.  And the STM board to plug into the core.  And 2x screens.  Sound about right?  Just making sure I'm not missing anything here. (Also, sorry for derailing my own thread...)
  17. As always, it is good to test one thing at a time, so just hook up one LCD and see what you get. If you have the MBSeq loaded, you will get text on one LCD and an animated logo on the other when it boots. Once you get one LCD working on both ports, then add the second one. This will make it easier to isolate problems. Also - check the contrast and backlight trimpots, see if they are functioning properly.
  18. Seq V4+ news?

    I got my acrylic panel cut at Ponoko for around $25 USD, because they had a $20 off deal for first time users. I also machined my panel for my MBSid on my hobby wood CNC machine. It turned out great. I just used decals for the labeling though.
  19. Yes the lcd will work with nothing else attached. You should get text on boot. Check the contrast setting if it is up all the way on a regular LCD you will have black blocks and not be able to see the text. The cable that goes to the front panel should be 1 to 1. if you make the cable and align the connectors the exact same way on the ribbon cable it will work as long as the header was soldered on the board the right way.   Make sure you have the cable built right. there is a good picture of the dual cable here: and here on the core page is a good picture of the single cable if you scroll to the lcd section at the bottom : You may want to build a single cable and make sure both lcd are 100% I find it easier to work with less when trouble shooting then build up to work out the rest of the problem.   You do not mention what LCD you bought from mouser. They sell several. Maybe you have one that is not set up for parallel input? Often if you are getting black characters it is a cable issue though.   I would also check the 5v jumper J15 and the ganged resistors R33 on the core they are often a source of problems for people. Also check everything around IC2 and make sure the 595 is in the socket right.  
  20. Seq V4+ news?

     Adrian built me a case for the regular Seq4. He builds a really nice case and has a few in stock. I am not sure what the lead time would be if you want something custom but he does really nice work. Also Ponoko is always an option if you want acrylic or one of the other Front Panel Design people it just depends on how fast and what you want to spend. Would be fairly easy to DYI if you choose round buttons. I have not found a good way to make the rectangular button holes my self yet. Drill and file would take forever and just not look that good. I keep looking at mills for my drill press but have not put up the $ yet. Anyway so many options for midibox goodness.
  21. Seq V4+ news?

    If you decide to try the SMT I would advise a hot air rework station they can be had for about $30. They also have practice boards you can buy. the 1206 like to lift when you solder them if you use too much solder. Have a pick or small screw driver to put them down if they lift. Not your finger they are hot and will burn your finger. Practicing on a few soic before doing one that matters would be really helpful in the confidence department. The 74hc series are fairly cheap to buy and would be great to practice on. Highly recommend to practice on the cheap disposable SMT soldering practice boards.  It is a lot harder to solder than through hole. It is also a lot harder to trouble shoot. You can not just pop out a socketed chip or throw on a chip clip for testing. You can not clip a test lead on a chip leg either.  You will get some bad chips and hot air is the only real way to replace them. The 165 seem extra sensitive, I have had several not survive soldering. I do not like to solder without a lighted magnifying glass to really be able to see well they are about $70. The lighted helping hand ones are good too and are about $30. A lot of the helping hands do not have current limiting resistors on the led lights and the leds will burn out. I replaced all my leds and put a current limiting resistor in mine.Get the nicer ones with the glass magnifying glass, sooner or later you will bump it with the soldering iron and the glass one will still be good. The cheap plastic one not so much... I also check all the joints with a 10x loupe. The Russian Belomo one is about ~$30 they have the best low distortion optics you can buy. To get anything better is a 300 price jump. Get the neck strap it is good so you do not drop it or have to look for it while you are working. It is really easy to solder the top of the leg but not have the solder flow properly under the leg. This is especially true if you are using standard solder. It is a lot easier with the thin solder (.015). It only takes a very little amount of solder to solder the smt ic. Don't use larger through hole solder you will have bridges. Bridges are very hard to remove at first, more so if it gets under the chip. Keep your soldering iron tip super clean. A soldering iron tip with extra solder on it will create bridges. The small pencil point tips are the easiest to use on SMT. I prefer the chisel point on through hole. Also component placement is critical. If it is off just a bit not all the legs may not align to solder to all the pads. Hot air will come in handy here as you can heat it up and realign the chip. Use a small jewelers screw driver to align it not your finger. It is hot you will burn your finger. Don't say I did not warn you it was hot :) . Did I mention you will burn your finger? You do not have a lot of room for error even on the larger SMT stuff. The smaller is much harder. Test all the legs for bridges and shorts with your meter before applying power. It is also good to test from the leg to a place in the circuit this will find legs that you did not get 100% the first go. I am still fairly new to SMT but have not had a perfect build yet. My through hole is perfect almost 95% normally on through hole if something did not work I just missed a solder somewhere and it is a quick easy obvious fix. SMT I have had to put a lot more work into trouble shooting. The chip packages are marked differently as well. Be sure to study them to put the chips on the right way the first time. There are at least 5 types of marking for a soic chip I have seen possibly more. It is easy to get a wrong reversed placement if you are not paying attention.   This should really be a sticky somewhere as this project seems to be going more and more SMT for the new folks that want to build something. SMT is not impossible or very hard but you definitely should have a few more tools and be prepared to test things a bit more. I would not go as far as to say it is easy but with a little practice first you would have a good idea if it is something you are able to do or not. I would bet most can especially with a few tools.
  22. #Update 1: working now, did forgot to solder the R33 resistor network on the bottom PCB under the STM32F4 eval board... silly me This tends to happen quite a lot to me when i have half finished projects lying around everywhere. So LCDs do work sweetly, but do not know exactly if the wilbas frontpanel is correctly working, seems quite random some of the led pattern, but i will have to look into that when i finish ubilding.     Hello, as i did finish my MidiBoxSid  a while ago, I did follow the advice of some other member here and looked into the MidiSeq v4. So i simply ordered all the stuff, or had it at home anyway. Now i am running in some issues, which are probably easily solved by some of you guys who already have one:   So My MIOS32 bootloader did flash on my STM board easily without trouble, I can also detect and upload the MidiSeq newest firmware, and it is read by the MIOS studio software, it says 1 minor issue was detected while flashing, but also states that it could be solved whatever that means, so I think everything might be ok with the Code. I can also open the MIOS file viewer and see that something is stored on the sd-cardm so I assume everything is working properly, right?   Now I did attach the Wilbas Frontpcb and the 2 LCDs, some from newhaven ordered via mouser, they run on 5V and the rest should also be connected fine :) at leats i do hope so right now, I did go thru the cabling quite a lot since it is kind of tricky since it is mirrored and stuff.   When I connect the USB cables for power then the backlight is lit on both, but i only get dark rectangles on the upper collumn, I thought maybe the midibox logo or version number should appear and so on, so something is not working right yet.   So here the big question? Do i have to configurate something else? The LCDs should work without any Front-PCB attached, right? since they are not connected whatsoever. Why do my LCDs not show the right things, maybe wrong LCDs, but I assume mouser is only providing the "right" ones. maybe some file missing on the sd-card, but it should simply work without the sd-card, right? I mean for testing something should be printed on the LCDs?   MIOS Studio is stating that the right seque code is detected, so there should not be a problem with that, maybe i simply flash the bootloader again later and go on form there, check all the ICs.   And last question, the J8/9 cable, goes 1:1 to the mirrored plug form the frontpanel, or does it have to be mirrored just liek the LCD type??? This is specially confusing to me since it is not clear if SI is supposed to go on SI, or like ususally in communications, SI is going to SO! Kind of tricky to document too,but luckily nothing be damages if this connection is wrong it simply wont work.     Thanks for reading and probably helping. cheers.  
  23. Seq V4+ news?

    Thanks all, for this wonderful info! I've done a lot of soldering in my day, but never any SMT stuff.  I'm sure I could figure it out, but really I'm confident with my through-hole skills.  So I'll probably end up going for the wilba version instead. Really helpful!
  24. Seq V4+ news?

    I've understood it like latigid on says, i.e. SEQV4+ will be compatible with the old Wilba front panel, as well as the "standard" setup (there are firmwares for several variants in the latest zip file). And I think we're already in the SEQV4+ era, because that's what the latest firmware is named (if I recall correctly), even if you use it with a Wilba frontpanel. From that point of view to talk about "SEQV4" and "SEQV4+" as if they were separate things makes sense only if we're talking about old firmware versions.
  25. Last week
  26. Seq V4+ news?

    The SEQ V4+ (antilog) hardware is validated and we have some PCBs available, although the mechanism of the shop etc. is not quite ready. The last piece of the puzzle is the case, which is still in progress from Adrian. If you want something ready-to-go, with all through-hole compenents etc., then go for the Wilba version (contra: there's no ready-made case available and CNC-routed panels are quite expensive). SEQ V4+ features should be compatible with all STM32F4 versions; this includes both the Wilba and antilog variants. if you don't mind waiting a bit and want a "high-quality" solution/enhanced hardware suited to the current SEQ workflow, then the SEQ v4+ is the right way to go.  it does involve SMT soldering, although it is not super difficult being 1206/SOIC. The Wilba version is certainly more straightforward in terms of the main control surface. the case from Adrian will make a "complete unit," hence we wait to see what Adrian brings :)
  27. MBSeqv4 Power Requirements

    Yes back lit LCD are very power hungry! normally around 300ma each on a 2x40 some will peak over 500 ma on startup. Better have a heat sink on that regulator! oled 2x40 are normally under 50ma each... makes a huge difference on Thermal power dissipation. They are a lot sharper too just not cheaper.
  28. Seq V4+ news?

    Your cost to build will be a lower maybe much lower depending on component choices with the seq4. It looks like the seq4+ will be SMD. Wilbas regular seq4 is all through hole. Much easier to build and trouble shoot through hole. The buttons will cost much more on the 4+. Looks to be a lot more dual leds on the 4+ that will make usage hopefully easier but will also add to cost. If you are new and have not built much It may be a lot easier and less frustrating to build the regular seq4. It looks like the 4+ will have a bit better interface but cost a good bit more. The main added features may be the way mutes work and really the layout improvements.    Good luck with making your decision.     Gerald
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