smashtv

Heya SD! Here is a image from the 6582 datasheet, i'm pretty sure the spec is the same for the 8580. (no 8580 datasheet handy) Best Smash

Wow! I take a few days away, and now someone opened Pandora's box/political/free speech thread. ;D This forum has always been void of politico and the questions of race/religion that always follow politics. I really like that, considering I'm in the US they would probably come get me within 5 minutes of the rant I would spew about US politics.... ;D sums it up. I say we keep it light around here and avoid politics.....there are plenty of other places to correct each other about $VAR_POLITICAL_ISSUE, or the correct path to $VAR_AFTERLIFE_NAME through the worship of $DEITY. ;) I do have to admit that I am racist, but not in the typical way. I'm racist against dumbasses. They come in all shapes sizes and colors. Unfortunately you can't usually tell until they speak, so it's a bit more difficult than the average racists' blind hate. (slackers) ;D The airport can be the worst for my type of racism. It would be so much easier to have a separate dumbass line. If that were in place, your trip would probably have been much more pleasant, since the dumbass line would be clearly marked in many languages, and you might even feel compelled to wave at the cute little poop-flinging primate who obviously rode the short bus to the airport. ;D On speech, If it's not going to cause harm to you or your loved ones shout it from the rooftops, if it really needs said but might get you and yours hurt, be anon, put it on the net and spread it virus stylee. Best Smash

No doubt on the martian speak!Let's break it down: 3/8"-27NS-2B= '3/8"'=diameter '27'=TPI (Threads per inch) 'NS'=American National Thread-Special. A WW2 era notation for the shape of the threads. In practice equivalent to 'UNS' (Unified Thread-Special) A quote from my tap book: "The UNS series is a catch-all category for threads which have the American Standard form, but whose pitches are not in the Unified Coarse (UNC) or Unified Fine (UNF) series." The easy way to remember this code is to think Non-Standard. ;D '2B'=This is a code for the tolerance class, A for screws and B for nuts. There are three classes, think of this as the slop factor. '1B' is pretty slack, think Chinese pot-metal screws in a knock-off widget. '2B' is tigher, but allows for finish/plating, etc. '3B' is tight. In modern manufacturing, 1B is part of a machinist' punchline when joking, 3B is for locknuts, buzzword marketing and 'beat it to fit, paint it to match' engineering, and 2B fit is king. ;) Of course all of this goes out the window for metric stuff. Metric uses 'xH' for tolerance classes, has different standard thread designations, etc.... For this type of hardware (switch nuts, encoder nuts, etc.) they use non standard threading to get the best grip with the least thread length, hence the odd pitches/thread profiles. That puts us in roll-the-dice land when matching hardware between manufacturers. :-\ Best Smash

Hi jrkirkish! Is it actually working for you? I mean, have you uploaded MIOS or an app with mmj yet? With mmj I get 90 40 7F (note on) instead of the correct bootloader upload request..... With no other changes but swapping mmj for mandolane I get the correct bootloader request (F0 00 00 7E 40 00 01 F7). I attached a couple of screenshots to better explain. No idea what is going on with mmj vs. sysex, it would be great to have a working all free setup.....But on the other hand 6euros for a working driver/patch is a bargain. Best SmashTV

Hi Fred It's not a PDF but a look at: http://www.avishowtech.com/mbhp/mbhp_dinR5.html should answer your questions. Best Regards SmashTV

Ahh! I get it now. :) There was not room between J1/J2 and the edge(s) they are close too for proper legends: [table][tr][td][/td][td] DIN R3:J1 [/td][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td][/td][td] looks like: [tt] OO-Vs OO-Vd SI-OO OO-SC OO-RC[/tt][/td] [td] but is wired: [tt] Vs-OO-Vs Vd-OO-Vd SI-OO-No connection SC-OO-SC RC-OO-RC[tt][/td] [/tr][/table] [table][tr][td][/td][td] DIN R3:J2 [/td][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td][/td][td] looks like: [tt] Vs-OO Vd-OO SI-OO SC-OO RC-OO[/tt][/td] [td] but is wired: [tt] Vs-OO-Vs Vd-OO-Vd SI-OO-No connection SC-OO-SC RC-OO-RC[tt][/td][/tr][/table] DIN R5 (the current rev) has the same lacking legend, but it is just a bit different in that it carries the SO line from J1 to J2. This allows for a 1:1 Core:DIN:DOUT chain. The next rev of the DOUT will carry SI from DOUT J1 to J2, allowing for a 1:1 Core:DIN:DOUT:DIN chain....or Core:DOUT:DIN:DOUT, etc. I'll work on making this more clear on future revs... Best Regards Smash

Hi Jason I have to agree with Stryd on this, You really should allow yourself more time to build before running it live. I'm currently lagged by about one week on getting orders out, add another week for max US ship time.... Best Regards SmashTV

Are you absolutely positive about this error? I promise I'm not trying to go all Iranian boat captain or anything....But there are a -lot- of R3s out there and I want to be sure the errata is complete. In my caveoffice they are -very- big for reading in low light. Gotta keep it dark in the office or me eyeballs will revolt. Fun thing is the rack of bins that only has barcodes....perfect for messing with visitors. ;) Best Smash

Are you sure about this? 1:1 was my intent. Considering my elevator rarely makes it to the top floor, could you show me the error? Since some cheeky kid pushed all the buttons then got off at the first floor, I could use some help... ;) Best Regards Smash

¡Advertencia! ¡Traducción De Babelfish! :) Ningún se preocupa de la fijación en español, el pescado de Babel es informativo y entretenido....;) Usted los individuos después de este proyecto debe resolver una página del wiki de la multi-lengua para los ' boxeadores futuros. Recuerdos SmashTV Warning! Babelfish Translation! :) No worries about posting in Spanish, Babel fish is informative and entertaining.... ;) You guys following this project should hammer out a multi-language wiki page for future 'boxers. Best Regards SmashTV

Wow look a turntable and some tools! It's impressive how much useful information can be spread by attaching 800k of uncommented photo to a message. </sarcasm> I think some people are missing the intent of this section of the forum. It's not a photo gallery, it's not where you blog about your slightly modified MB64 build, etc. This is where we need to be talking about and supporting user written applications that are released or are working towards release. Anything else is what the design concepts forum is for. That said, Alogic could you edit your post to let us know what we are looking at, so we'll know if it needs to stay here, get moved to design concepts, or removed completely? (I only mention removing it because there is no rational reason to leave a -single- 800k+ image up as an attachment, that is eating donated bandwidth for no good reason) As usual nothing personal, just wearing the admin hat as needed. ;) Best SmashTV

hehe whee more on/off topic.... ;) Not just been there done that, but I have at least a full weeks worth of those t-shirts. :)The Williams pinball machines I used to work on day in and day out (in the 90's) moved to using opto pairs vs. switches in a lot of places, sometimes they had IR emitter/detector pairs on the same assembly as some rather powerful solenoids. The issues were rarely with the opto parts, but every emitter had a 2watt resistor close to it, and the vibration of the solenoids was constantly breaking the legs. Cue the dremel press and baby wire ties fed through the fresh holes. :) Squeezing in a landing for the reg to lay on the board was on my to do list, but adding onboard MIDI jacks in the same board footprint killed that dream. ;) I have a favorite trick for mounting regs in tour-class gear: Regulator flat against the board with the number side down, tab side up, hole in the board for the tab hole, spacer between tab and board, and a screw up through the solder side of the board, through the tab, and into the heatsink. Makes it easy to share a heatsink between many regs or transistors without ever having the solder joint under tension, and way easier to service quickly than most of the other schemes. ;) I have to agree with Stryd, when you go off topic it gets quite interesting. If topics are derailed in the process, so be it. ;D Best Smash

I heard that when playing Wintendo blowing on the cartridge connector helps when there are load issues..... ;D

Hehe....some parts get a bit rowdy right before they release the magic smoke. ;) I wore an almost ledgible part number on my finger for a while......from a 16 pin dip that got so hot it split down the face of the chip. Gotta love those early array logic chips, great way to heat a building. ;) I was 12 or 13 at the time, but I still remember it every time I feel up a board looking for thermal clues. Best Smash

Correct, but you have to realize that contents can set the tone of a statement. Not more frustrated by your wondering, more frustrated by the situation as I described it. I want to link the .brd files from my pages and the wiki like the old days, but I learned the hard way why that is a bad idea. No worries then, I'll keep in mind that you were not trying to provoke and move on. :) Minor scrapes are bound to happen, no matter what languages are involved, any time we try to squish thoughts into plain text. I'll remember that the next time the expensive translation service I use goes on holiday and I have to speak poor/broken Chinese to the guys at the fab.....They think it's funny, and like to gather the managers and put me on speaker phone for entertainment. ;) Time for me to find a way to ship to Serbia (not possible in the past due to insurance, but might be workable now) but not until I'm done with Stryd's boards. ;D Best Regards SmashTV

With the benefit of some coffee in my blood let me ratchet down the 'grrrr level' a bit... ;) I know it might look like I am trying to game the community by not releasing the files, but I promise that is not the case. When I quit putting the .brd files up I replaced them with .pdf files of the layers, then came the endless questions about getting Acrobat to them to print at the correct size.....I'm sure you see now the cycle I'm in, and my last post is an indication of my frustration with this issue..... That said I would be happy to generate some .pdf files of whatever you want, but by public request only, and considering I am not the one to ask for help to get some random printer/Wintendo/Eagle combination to print correctly. ;) BTW thanks Pay_C, you are on my brainwave (my apologies! ;) ) Best Regards SmashTV

Not sure what you are trying to imply here, but you need to step off with the tone. I used to release .brd files, but grew tired of the endless help requests from new Eagle users, help requests caused be people running cracked/pirate Eagle keys, and a couple who thought it better to yell at me than blame themselves for not hitting the 'ratsnest' button before etching a board. So who cares how much extra effort it costs me to support it, because someone -thinks- they need it? My layouts are not much use unless you can do double sided with plated through holes and vias. They are tuned for a pro fab house, not home etching, since the official layouts are optimized for that. Right. I have answered this specifically here on the forum more than once. Don't try to make me out as some bad guy because I don't have the time or patience to answer a random demand repeated several times. I'm here to serve, but thats by my choice, not your right. Smash

umm.... No. If this were some kind of radiation/scanning scramble it would kill the whole thing, not just one chunk. It's easy to make WinPic800 miss a block and still report a good burn, anything that steals enough cycles (like an HP printer driver) will do it. Another nail in the coffin for the radiation theory: I would be getting reports of DOA PICs, which I'm not. Even during the various anthrax mail scares here in the US (where they were dosing lots of mail with enough radiation to kill anything biological) no scrambled chips, even when the parcel was known to have been irradiated. Scratch radiation off the suspect list, and write 'Wintendo' in its place. ;) Best SmashTV

Very cool that add on touch panels are getting this cheap. I guess I still had the high cost of ELO and Microtouch brands in mind. USB ready, peel and stick, calibrate. sweet. ;) Makes no sense to DIY unless we do a touchscreen rig w/no PC. Best Smash

Pulsar light controllers=implementation of this concept:http://www.pulsarlight.com/Masterpiece96.htm Early models of these boards were dinosaurs even back in my young days when I spotted them in local clubs.....great for a blinky disco but not so much anything else. Perfect spot to set your drink in the DJ booth though (what with the flat surface and all) ;) "touch operated metal control panel wired to a mains voltage light show" still not ranking well on my fun ways to experience voltage list. ;D Best Smash

Sorry! I should have explained this way better..... The idea is to keep all but one of the analog input pins at J5 grounded, and watch the ungrounded pin jitter and cause random events (with a touch on the pin to cause worse jitter if needed). Grounding that one open pin should stop the random events. Then move to the next pin and test the same way. Jitter=test signal. ;) One of two outcomes: Jitter on all eight pins when ungrounded as expected. Cause is -probably- on the AIN or associated wiring. or Jitter only on four of the pins. PIC is cause. (assuming no issue with the traces from PIC to J5, or issues with J5) This test is super easy if you are using the DIL pinheaders at J5a and J5b vs. J5, since you can put hard drive master/slave type jumpers on these to ground them. Obviously you only need four jumpers per header, you don't want to put one on the Vd pins. (a jumper here would short +5 to ground!) The MB64 app is handy for this test, but anything that reads at least 8 pots and goes nuts with open inputs making jitter should do fine. ;) I have seen analog input issues after a pair of PICs had been run on noisy power, like they were stuck off or something. I describe it that way because I thought the analog ins were fried/dead, but erasing the PICs (even though checksums were good) and reloading everything cured it, analog ins working fine. Can't call it a fluke since both failed the same way and came back the same way after exposure to the funky power. One more random direction: Sometimes the soundcard MIDI cable ties your MIDIbox ground directly to your PCs ground, and depending on the supply in your PC -and- the supply on the MIDIbox this can be a bad thing. A large ground differential between the two can be enough to get into the funky power scenario mentioned above. In other words if you disconnect your MIDI cables from the Core, power up the Core and the PC, put one test lead on ground on the Core, the other on the ground pin in the PC MIDI IN cable, you should get a near 0v reading. Anything past a few volts is trouble, as the weaker supply will start acting more like load on the stronger supply. We -will- beat this issue, with a hammer if needed. ;D Best Smash

There are also optical touch screens, but they are low res compared to resistive or capacitive, and not multi-touch capable. On the upside they don't cover or interfere with the display, can be scaled to any size, and could be made DIY. It's simply a "frame" of IR LED emmiter/detector pairs, lit and read matrix style. Perfect for soft buttons. I would be happy to dig up much more info (and design the needed hardware) if anyone is serious enough to code this as a MIOS app..... I used commercially made optical screens like this on the baby plasma(s) in my tour DMX consoles, and I -think- the service spare is at my house. (translation: I have one we can destroy to help design a MIOS version ;) ) Best Smash

...while soldering. ;) Agreed, but I still think the warning is not scary enough to prevent this error. We need something way more frightening, like a Terror Threat Level:"Orange-ish" or a Symantec virus alert. I'll have a go at re-writing an old virus warning for this: Never plug a PIC into the socket until you have done the initial hardware checks. Also, do not plug in a PIC if the RED or YELLOW LED is lit, because the PIC could be permanently damaged. Once this damage has occured, the PIC will start acting very strange due to a condition known as "EvilPic". Some of the symptoms of EvilPic are: It will re-write your hard drive. Not only that, but it will scramble any disks that are even close to your computer. It will recalibrate your refrigerator's coolness setting so all your ice cream goes melty. It will demagnetize the strips on all your credit cards, screw up the tracking on your VCR and use subspace field harmonics to scratch any CD's you try to play. It will give your ex-boyfriend/girlfriend your new phone number. It will mix Kool-aid into your fishtank. It will drink all your beer and leave its socks out on the coffee table when there's company coming over. It will put a dead mouse in the back pocket of your good suit pants and hide your car keys when you are late for work. EvilPic will make you fall in love with a penguin. It will give you nightmares about circus clowns. It will pour sugar in your gas tank and shave off both your eyebrows while dating your current boyfriend/girlfriend behind your back and billing the dinner and hotel room to your Visa card. It will seduce your grandmother. It does not matter if she is dead, such is the power of EvilPic, it reaches out beyond the grave to sully those things we hold most dear. It moves your car randomly around parking lots so you can't find it. It will kick your dog. It will leave libidinous messages on your boss's voicemail in your voice! EvilPic will give you Dutch Elm disease and it will leave the toilet seat up. It will make a batch of Methamphetamine in your bathtub and then leave bacon cooking on the stove while it goes out to chase grade-schoolers with your new snowblower. Again my apologies if you have read this far. ;) Got a bit of hurry up and wait down time, trying to entertain myself and you with ten year old jokes..... ;D Best Smash

Hi guys I wish this was a workable option but it was crossed off my alternatives list long ago. :( FR4 will warp with even a small amount of constant pressure. Even PCBs as small as the MB boards warp if not stored correctly. Anything larger than a few square inches would need internal support. Also you would need to keep it out of the sun, since the different layers in the laminate will expand and contract differently upon temperature change. FR4 will warp on its own with even a few degrees of rapid temp change. (thats why preheat and temp control are crucial parts of the fab process, else delamination occurs) If he's paying $70 each for a frac size panel he needs to either step up to big boy quantities, or hire a pro buyer/broker to get the price down....or both. It's nice that he wants to shop local (US), but realistic pricing and finding a shop that does low quantity are mutually exclusive here. Mexico on the other hand is full of metal fab shops with NC punch presses, and in contrast to dealing with American companies seem quite happy to do quality work at a realistic price. <rant>I know this scrapes politics a bit with global economy/currency value manipulation/human rights issues/environmental considerations, but it would be a double standard to say x from country y is bad, while using -any- electronic parts.....the state of the art in electronics has always been outsourced to anywhere with cheap labor/weak environmental rules. It's a situation that will not change as long as there are government official pockets to pad and profit to be made. Just Google "congo tantalum" for a look at the real cost of a 17 cent capacitor.</rant> Once again I find myself posting with an off-balance coffee/blood ratio, my apologies if you read this far. ;) Back on topic..... I have been trying to qualify a few alternatives to aluminum for this, but aluminum still wins on price/performance if CNC milled, and good old steel alloy sheet metal if CNC punched. Best Smash

"Thinking sometimes produces results more effectively than swearing. Nevertheless, on a project like this, profanity, judiciously applied, seems to help." ;D I still want to know if all 8 jitter when you disconnect J5 and touch the pins.....That will (mostly) rule out the PIC as cause. After that we -should- be able to at least figure out the best angle and force amount with which to apply the precision metric adjustment hammer. ;) Best Smash