smashtv

SLP I am having trouble understanding your requests and statements on this, to me it looks like you are acting a bit pushy towards Thorsten for a release date? I dont speak German but as far as I can tell his reply was not about permission, but about waiting for the official release (the way both Mike and I always have). If I missed something here please enlighten me. Best SmashTV

I have not looked at the datasheet for that one, but I do know that 815-ABL-20-B2 works and is a few cents cheaper. Best Smash

Hehe That method is assuming studio use, though it would probably work fine forever (especially if you use dab of RTV to secure against vibration). I have another method that is not too fiddly and would withstand tour (ab)use if needed. Can you tell I have been more than once around the ride with non-standard connectors? ;D Best Smash

Whee connectors with Unobtanium plated pins..... ;) For an off-the-shelf solution, you might consider normal 2mm SIL pinheaders on the board, and two 2mm DIL IDC connectors on the cable placed close enough together that one of them connects only to the 25 in one row, with the other IDC connecting up the remaining 25. This leaves one row of 25 on each IDC unconnected. This is one of those things that is immediately understood when seen but hard to explain with text, so let me know if a better explanation is in order..... ;) BTW: IDC SIL connectors that can use standard ribbon cable spacing live in the Unobtanium category also..... ;) Best Smash

Hi guys! Sorry to chime in late here, I have not been following this thread..... I have used the green stuff, and it works great, but only when used with the Pulsar transfer paper. No groovy with toner transfered with PnP Blue, or blank clay coat (magazine paper). The Pulsar paper seems to be the only thing out there that leaves no residue on the surface of the toner after transfer. I use a modified laminator so the time/temp/pressure between my attempts was fairly uniform. Pulsar support is top notch as is the product. Frank was always helpful without being pushy. I used reams of the transfer paper to do the legends on the old pre-soldermask/silkscreen boards, without so much as a bad sheet. Best Smash

Hehe no worries..... :) You are right I should update the lists. I like to verify the whole list for each module in one test build, and I just have not been able to make the time to grind hours looking at datasheets and catalogs past what I have to do to (almost) keep up with the store....stepping away from the 'puter to play with my son just keeps winning that battle. ;) Best Smash

Any of the BC337 parts should work fine for what we do. Probably, but it's yet another thing on the to do list and rather low priority. It's not as simple as using the same part numbers I use to make up the kits, since some of the parts I use for this come from other suppliers or are not available in single quantities. I just don't have the spare hours it would take to specify, source, and test all of these parts.....I can barely keep up with that process as needed by my store. Best Regards Smash

Boardlocks: http://www.conexcon.com/pages/8017.html and http://www.conrad.de/script/d_sub_steckerleiste-42.sap Mount holes: http://akizukidenshi.com/catalog/items2.php?p=1&q=%22C-00164%22 Click the pic on the last 2 links to enlarge. For your Mouser list (please put this in the wiki when you are done): [tt]| - | Transistor BC337 | 1 | 2N3904TA |[/tt] No need to sub this, 512-BC33725TA is what you want. [tt]| - | Trim Pot 2.2k | 1 | 3362R-1-222LF |[/tt] You can usually use a 2k pot here also allowing a wider selection of parts (2k is way more common) [tt]| - | Diode 1N4002 | 1 | 821-1N4002 |[/tt] You can use a 1N4002, 1N4003, etc. through 1N4007 for this. [tt]| - | Polarised Capacitor 100 uF (min. 35 V) | 1 | 140-XRL35V100-RC-TB|[/tt] The "TB" on the end of this part means "tape and box" packaging, you want 140-XRL35V100-RC instead....or use 140-HTRL35V100-RC, same price, but high temp/better cap. [tt]| - | Polarised Capacitor 10 uF (min. 20 V) | 2 | USR1E100MDD |[/tt] 140-HTRL25V10-RC a bit cheaper than the nichicon part, and again is an upgrade to high temp. You can use [*tt] and [/tt] for this (omit the "*"), select the text in your post that you want monospaced and hit the type writer icon to add the tags, then hit preview to see it. Best Smash

Whoops yeah I should have been specific.....too many years here in the US where the term sheet metal implies some sort of Steel formula.... ;) The ring detector thing works well, but beware that it has a relatively limited bandwidth, similar to a tuned antenna, where a real gaus meter built/tuned for mag (and related harmonics) will show reality. I made the mistake once of mentioning using DSP to tweak harmonic attenuation in real time to a tube amp pro buddy of mine. He whipped out some notes from his past days doing scalar EM lab research.....one look at the math involved on just the harmonics side of EM caused both of my remaining brain cells to hurt, and made me happy to be "just an audio engineer" with only standing waves, resonant frequencies, and air temperature to cope with..... ;) Whoop sorry to ramble! Best Smash

Heya DB! Think sandwich: thin sheet metal plate, foam on top + foam on bottom, metal plate a few inches smaller than the foam (soft edges), held together with some spray mount adhesive. (wont degrade most foam) Magnetism on this order usually needs a little more than thin metal foil/copper tape like used for rfi. Sometimes I almost miss repairing open-frame arcade game monitors.... ;) Best Smash

I am not happy with this at all, This is trolling plain and simple. I removed the word "official" from the title of the first post, since this implies some level of power that you don't have here. It is sad that Stryd fought to lift your ban....regret caused by friends is the worst. I'll also lock the topic, no good can come from further comment. SmashTV

No worries Filmcomposer :)

Hi Mick DIN R4 docs are at http://www.avishowtech.com/mbhp/mbhp_dinR4.html Current docs are always linked from my info page, and I will update the link from the buy page soon. The flipped connectors are already on the list for future revs. on both the DIN and DOUT. Best SmashTV

Hi Rigo This still sounds like a resistor pack issue......Did you change both packs associated w/this chip? (it needs 9 total resitors per '165) Do you have all 4 '165s and their resistors loaded? (just making sure you are not building a DINX1) What happens if you swap the '165s around? Do the symptoms change at all? Let me know what you find.... Best SmashTV

That it would....but no.The take one and pass it down nature of these serial chains prevents it. (Unlike IIC where each device has an ID/address) Best SmashTV

Just to confirm: the related resistor packs are in the right direction? (dot towards J1) Best Smash

Hi Guys You can use SIL connectors....but it is easier to use a 1:1 ribbon cable with 3 DIL connectors.....please see http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=8300.5 , last message in the thread. Sorry for not linking directly to the message, I'm on the palm and the forum WAP mode only gives a thread url. Also that explanation is not so great, so let me know if it creates more questions than answers. ;) Best Regards SmashTV

No worries on the bad English, but you must understand that repeating your post in a private message (to me or anyone else) is as unacceptable as crossposting. The way it works here is you ask a question one time, and if someone understands the question and knows the answer they will reply. Please understand, I'm not critcal of you or the question, but I do not want it repeated at every possible chance until answered...... Best Regards SmashTV

Hi Evan Usually I would say this is power supply, but if that's the case here you would have to be right at the threshold of what your supply can push with 63, and just over it with 64 (does not seem likely unless your luck is like mine) ;) If you do decide to look in that direction check this post: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=6670.msg42417#msg42417 Best Smash

Hi Whomper! I finally had a chance to tinker with my own hardware to eliminate a possible cause for this.... There are several possibilities:1) Connection/wiring-if the MO/MI pins on the LTC are not connected they will float (causing erratic or always on/off behavior) 2) Reversed/backwards C5 and/or C6 caps 3) Bad 7400 chip 4) Wrong family of 7400 chip (a 74F00 or 74LS00 etc. might not play well here) Does the other LED work as expected? If so my money is on #2 above, C5 reversed. Dont do this, you are connecting your MIDI IN and OUT to each other through an LED. (depending on the MIDI isolation of the other devices on the MIDI chain this could possibly fry some parts) Let us know what you find! Best Regards SmashTV

Hi Rigo! That's a bit of a suprise, this is an odd failure mode for a resistor pack.....My money was on the chip as the cause. (he said while scribbling notes for future reference) ;) Let me know if the discrete resistors do the trick.... Best Regards Smash

Hi filmcomposer..... I'll second Stryd's request that you don't crosspost, and I have merged both threads into this one. Best Regards SmashTV

hehe..... ;D Had to be careful on this thread, "Read the noob 4 dummies thread" as an answer to what seems like a very unrelated question might seem a bit hostile when it's really not... :) In hindsight I think we missed a quick opportunity to poke fun at you.... ;D Best Smash

My first instinct would be to pull that 74HC165 chip and measure again to see if the readings are then stable.....If it's still wrong without the chip then it's either the resistor pack or a soldering issue. Considering these meter results and your close inspection, my bet is on the '165 chip. Let us know what you find! Best Smash

Hi Rigo! I made a new thread with your post, so it won't get buried or dilute the other thread..... This looks more like the serial clock line is shorted to an input than a bad resistor network, but it depends on the timing of the messages. If it follows a solid timing pattern, Look for a clock or data line shorted to that input....If the timing appears more random, it -could- be the resistor on that input line is not connected (and the input is floating). Let us know what you find..... Best Smash