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reincarnate

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Posts posted by reincarnate

  1. It seems to me you've got a few options which you can do incrementally and prove each step.

    First I'd consider just using a DIN unit and a core, and create a button for the first 3 fingers on each hand. This would enable you to play anything in C and get a feel for how it would work at minimum cost. Even after I would not model the bottom B/Bb keys, and for a simple prototype I'd also probably ignore the bottom C key, and left hand high D/D#/E/F/F# keys. Instead of a single octave key I'd recommend you have some down octave-up octave keys where you would normally put your thumb. This is the way the Yamaha WX5 works, and it can give you something like 8 octaves. Your best bet is to then work out in software which note to output depending on the keys and the octave keys which would be a lot easier than doing it in hardware. Just as a starter you could mount the buttons on a broom handle or similar just so you can check the software. This would give you a useful and cheap prototype. The WX5 also has a thumbwheel where your right thumb would normally sit on the sax, and you could assign this to pitch wheel or modulation wheel. Once you are happy with all of this at minimum cost, you could then think about having it on a more ergonomic body, adding the left hand high key cluster, and how to deal with the breath note-on/note off. I suspect breath velocity, and trying to simulate the lip bend will be more difficult. I'd probably leave the lip bend until last. Also be warned that you get a lot of queues on how to lip your note through vibrations through your head, and you don't get this sort of feedback on a midi-sax, making tuning hard.

    You could make the breath a simple on/off at the beginning and use one of the remaining inputs on the DIN module, just to see how it goes. Once you've got all that working then I'd think again about the air velocity and how to measure it.

    If you're thinking about midifying a real sax, then you could use the same software for deciding on the note played but with actuators on the main keys. But the challenge here would be trying to stop the reed buzzing.

    I hope this gives you a more simple starting point.

  2. hey Knowgood,

    Yes, see my post above.  The transparent ones are very similar to those on the SH-32.  I've got samples of the switches and an SH-32 but it's hard to see any differences.  But you knew this when you posted, right?

    R.

  3. I found the MEC switches perfect too.  I managed to get a couple of samples from them last year, and they are fantastic switches.  But I couldn't get them for less than £3.50 per unit, which was just ridiculous  So I know the money Stryd is talking about is an excellent price.  This is just the bulk buy I've been waiting for.  The clicky ones are very tactile, probably 1.5mm throw, but have a good squidgy resistance.  I think my unused samples probably only have about 9 Million clicks of life left - it is addictive.

    I'll be looking for at least:

    3FTL6 x 140

    1D.16  x 70

    1S11.16.0 x 70

    The clear caps are very similar to those used in Roland's SH-32.

  4. Since everyone seemed to have received theirs, I was getting worried, especially since my local sorting office seem to use the power of their union to allow them to pilfer goods in transit......

    ..but they arrived today!  They feel great, especially with the perfect fit of the "Waldorf" knobs.  The dentent is not as chunky as on my Yamaha and Roland kit, and for me that's a good thing.

    So, thanks for all your work on this Frank.  I'm very happy.

    Steve

  5. Hey, nice box.  Trackerball would be cool too.

    I saw some red LCDs at http://shop.tronico.net/ a few years ago which weren't especially expensive, but not anymore.

    I found this http://www.active-robots.com/products/intelligent-displays/matrix-orbital.shtml , but not cheap, and I haven't looked at the specs to see if it's compatible with MIOS.  Colours look spot on though.

    They do exist!  I've also seen black on red.

  6. Thanks Guys.  I tried most of these before, but not all - and not at the same time.

    I've now got acces and I got it by clearing all my temporary internet files and history, disabling Norton Firewall, setting security and privacy settings in IE to none (or minimum), closing IE and then reopening.

    I've since put the firewall back on and upped my settings again and I've got no problem accessing the pages now.....just in time since I've just got that final 10Mhz crystal for my core!

    Thanks again.

    Steve

  7. Hi Guys,

    I've been away for a long time and when I left I could get access to all in the uCapps site.  Now I'm back I can't get access to the LTC and LCD pages.  This is a bit of a pain as I was in the middle of two LTC modules, and I want to carry on where I left off.

    I suspect my browser setup, since I remember in the past the site could be particular.  I've also rebuilt my machine since I was last here, hence the suspicion.

    All I get is the frame on the left side, and a single bar across the main frame.  I've tried setting my security and privacy settings to zero, and I've set the browser settings to default, none of which works.

    Any ideas would be appreciated.

    Thanks

    Steve

  8. I think the only reason it can't be controlled directly is that it hasn't any midi drivers.

    I use a DSP2416 with CakeWalk9 and an AudioX driver.  Cakewalk allows me to map control of bits of the card from a midi message from another midi device (currently a Control Freak...but before I found this site).  I use the freak to control channel levels and muting, but could do a more.  I don't think it can handle the bussing or effects selections.

    I guess my answer is that you should be able to with the right software without waiting for any hardware development.

    There was a small app that midi enabled the DSP around a year or so back.  I didn't download it and I don't know if its still around.

    Steve.

  9. Peshay,

    Hello again!  Well, I suggest that you go to Maplin (or another electronics shop) and by an IC extractor.  These are like tweezers, but with 90 degree hooks at each end.  They sell for 80p in the UK (so probably about 1.2 Euro).  So far I pulled out 4 SID chips, all easy and no damage.  I was glad I did because you are right, you do have to pull quite hard.  Here's a picture of a toolkit - it's the item on the right next to the screwdriver:

    http://www.maplin.co.uk/images/catalog/pictures-all/LargeImages/ModuleImages/33780i0.jpg

    Think about how much a SID chip is worth to you, and how much one of these tools is.

    Steve.

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