Wilba

I suggest doing the following to determine if the problem is software or hardware. i.e. if the problem persists after each step, then make note of it, if it stops after a step, then report it here. This assumes problem is only present on Core 1, and that other Core/SID channels are working fine. 1. Upload the MB-SID application again to Core 1. Make sure you "Use Feedback From Core" when uploading. 2. Swap the two 74HC595 from under the two SIDs connected to Core 1 (i.e. far right two) with another two 74HC595 that you assume are working, i.e. the ones connected to Core 2. 3. Upload the MB-SID interconnection test: http://www.ucapps.de/mios/mbsid_interconnection_test_v1b.zip and run the tests (see asm file). Check all the outputs are working as expected. 4. Upload the change_id application: http://www.ucapps.de/mios/change_id_v1_9d.zip to set another PIC (i.e. the one in Core 2) to device ID 0, and put that PIC in Core 1. It's ok to leave Core 2 without a PIC. Upload the MB-SID application again to Core 1. After step 4, you've basically put the chips from the "working" Core 2 and 2nd SID module into Core 1, as well as validated the wiring (with the test app). Very occasionally, I power up mine and it does strange things, makes strange noises, like stuck notes etc. and that's with fully tested hardware, so I can only assume the PIC gets some noisy power on startup and goes into a weird mode, as if it's memory has some garbage in it... quickly powering off and on fixes the problem. If yours is having problems most of the time instead of only occasionally, then that's a problem that should be fixable.

Yes. Add your username and quantity to the wiki page, and you'll be contacted when I'm ready to take your order and receive your details.

Peake, these: look like 17mm, not 13mm. 13mm dimension in the parts description refers to dimension from base of switch to end of shaft. My apologies if this wasn't obvious from the parts description. I have a bag of nearly 100 of these 17mm ones from a previous unfinished MB-SID "step C" CS... they are good for 10mm spacers and 3mm panel, and I plan to use them in another design... perhaps my rack-mount MB-6582 ;) might need them for the LED matrix at least. Here's the exact part from Mouser: http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=SKHHDTA010virtualkey68800000virtualkey688-SKHHDT and the datasheet from Mouser (refer to SKHHDTA010 as in the wiki): http://www3.alps.com/WebObjects/catalog.woa/E/PDF/Switch/Tact/SKHH/SKHH.PDF You should be able to find local ALPS distributors in your country - they were the easiest thing for me to find in Australia, and I thought they were fairly common everywhere - TK used them on his own MIDIboxes before I came along!

It looks like you are not using switched stereo sockets. The PCB was changed in this section but only to add tracks to join up the stereo sockets (via resistors) into a passive mixer. i.e. with switched stereo sockets installed, it will mix the output of those sockets without plugs in them. How that works is when a plug is in a socket, the signals go from the pins on the left (looking at the PCB) to the plug, via the contacts above the plug. When the plug is out of the socket, the contacts above the plug touch the contacts connected to the pins on the right (looking at the PCB). So... if you're not using switched stereo sockets, or the pins are different to what the PCB expects, some wierdness might happen... like what you're experiencing. I don't think you're using stereo sockets from SmashTV, so please describe what you are using. Do they have six pins on the bottom? Do the contacts that touch the plug at the top connect to the left or right side pins (looking at the socket with hole at 12 o'clock)? They look like they connect to the right side, which is where it connects up to the mixer. I can give you a workaround/fix after you confirm the part is not what the PCB expects... basically you can take out the passive mixer resistors and then just bridge across the pins on the base.

Warning - while you were typing a new reply has been posted. You may wish to review your post. oh well, too lazy to edit The more "common" stores like Jaycar Electronics and Altronics have most of the common bits like headers, connectors, cable, regulators, resistors, capacitors, etc. Shops like Rockby Electronics and Radio Parts Group have some bits cheaper but not always... Rockby at least has some exotic stuff but it's In Melbourne, there's Switches Plus which distributes a lot of things like ALPS tactile switches, rotary encoders, LCDs. Crest Technologies is similar. It's a bit hit and miss... you are unlikely to find a store that sells the PICs used for MIDIbox, only the common and popular PICs... but 74HC165 and 74HC595 are available. So I advise getting modules from SmashTV since it's perhaps the easiest (and in the long run cheapest) way to get what you need, including some rotary encoders since their not common here (assuming you don't need specific ones for a control surface PCB), and then buy the other control surface components locally. Or, if there's something you really can't get here, ask if other Aussies want to get some too and combine shipping with them. If you have some specific parts you want, I can probably point you to a supplier.

Same here. I forgot I ordered so many... thanks seppo! Black is nice, but I still like red better ;D

It's http://www.czmok.de/ I know Jan Czmok, aka. unit-sound, one of the first people to finish their MB-6582 finding all the parts themselves. http://www.flickr.com/photos/jczmok/sets/72157602858452147/ This looks like the SID-NUXX he sold on the forum: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,10398.msg78634.html#msg78634 http://www.flickr.com/photos/jczmok/sets/72157602136213649/ The point of this post is to clear Jan from any wrongdoing, it might have his name on the box but he's not selling it.

A wood case for MB-6582? Wow... Can I have one in ebony please? ;D

That's fine.

How do you know they don't "narrow upwards"? Not even the ALPS SKHH datasheet is specific about this. I can help out if you post some links to parts.

Due to the Australian dollar falling (and for other reasons), I've had to increase the price of SIDs to AU$30. This keeps the price in US$/Euro roughly the same as it was in previous sales. When I run the sale, everyone who is on the list for SIDs will be informed of the actual price and asked to confirm their orders.

I repeat, Optrex displays fit the "standard" mounts (i.e. like what I used) they just rub the holes a bit.

Scroll up.

Can you please explain how your country can be charging so much in tax? If it was just the two boards, eg. US$40, then that's like 150% tax, plus extra fees...

Yes - If you're getting a panel from Doug, the mount holes should match where Doug will put the studs and the display area should match the hole in the panel, both in size and offset from the left edge of the PCB - the display area is centered vertically but not centered horizontally. I've put some effort into lining up the knobs with the middle of the four characters of a "step" or menu parameter etc. so displays should have a specific pixel and character size. Also, to make it all fit in conjunction with the MB-SEQ PCB, the LCDs must have the right PCB size. Luckily, most 40x2 LCDs have a standard size, i.e. identical dimensions for the display area, mount holes, pads, etc. and that's the size I used, so finding the right LCD should be easy. Use this as a guide for comparing datasheets, this one is "standard": http://www.crystalfontz.com/product/CFAH4002A-YYH-JT.html The one from Voti looks standard - you can compare datasheets yourself to be sure. Note that some (most?) Optrex 40x2 LCDs (such as the ones from nebula's bulk order) have mount holes 1mm vertically wider - they seem to be the only manufacturer who does this, as I've never seen any other "standard" 40x2 LCD have anything other than a 26.5mm dimension. This means that Optrex displays fit tightly onto the studs I've put on my prototype panel. I will not change this dimension on the panels to be made by Doug or in the published FPD file. If you have an LCD from nebula's bulk order, or some other Optrex display, it should work fine.

It was actually me.

Well, that's annoying... not even the 8-pin from this manufacturer will fit. I used the same footprint as the DIN socket in the C64, and I bought a bag of 100 at the time which had the same footprint. I expected it to be a standard, much like 5-pin DIN sockets (aka. MIDI sockets). One free socket to skyline7! :) Just PM me your details.

The capacitors I buy which are called "monolithic" are ceramic, they are not flat and round like most ceramic capacitors, they're usually a shiny blob and much smaller than other kinds of capacitors. In most cases, there's nothing special about it being "monolithic" (other than the small size) so you could substitute with a normal ceramic or polyester capacitor.

I can only say that I expect them to be 3.0mm at the top, if they are made to match the "original" ALPS switch. I can't be 100% certain. I think the reason they make the longer shaft ones smaller at the top is to allow for easier assembly, since the "gap" between the panel hole and the switch base is greater. It's up to you... there is a (passive) mixed stereo output at J70 (mixes the 4 stereo channels), which you can connect a stereo "headphone" socket, not intended for headphones though, more for a simple mixed output, say if you wanted to plug it into an amp just to show it off to someone... ideally you should mix the channels using some proper mixer.

http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/wilba_mb_6582_control_surface_parts_list I thought I was pretty clear on this topic... ???

The pots are just attenuating the SID output on its way into the SID input. The value of the pot doesn't matter. In my suggested wiring, it's used as a voltage divider so that you can have anything between a grounded input and maximum SID output routed to input.

1) I do mention elsewhere that the pots I used are dual gang 500K log, although linear works too, and also I used 100K pots on the last one with no problems... so anywhere between 100K and 1M will work. part from JayCar

Yes. If it's from SmashTV, it's 100% error free.

2) J25 gives ~11V, but you can also use J3 for 5V or J4 for 5V or 9V (or 12V if PSU Option A).

I believe the 8-pin DIN socket in that datasheet has a footprint that matches the MB-6582 base PCB, but with an extra pin (pin 8) which you could trim off. I will have to check the dimensions more carefully. I know SmashTV was considering using 8-pin DIN sockets in the kits for various reasons, the socket itself would be compatible with the 7-pin DIN plug of a C64 PSU.