Wilba

1. Yes 2. Yes 3. Yes 4. There is not one single schematic for the entire base PCB, this would be a bit hard to read and redundant, as the base PCB just consists of the required MIDIbox modules to build MB-SID, thus refer to the ucapps.de module descriptions for schematics.

A thou, also known as a mil, is a unit of length equal to 0.001 inches (a "milli-inch" or a "thousandth of one inch"). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thou_(unit_of_length) Most PCBs are laid out in mil because standard unit of spacing is 100mil (IC pins, SIL headers, LED leads, etc.)

Because TK wanted it ;D It's a shortcut button, instead of pressing MENU and then GP button 10. According to him, it's frequently used, which is why it's also the default function for the F1 button. Thanks for pointing it out. I've changed those five buttons to F1,F2,F3,F4,F5. F1 can still be a shortcut to the UTILITY menu. I have no idea what functions to use for F2-F5, as the default functions for F2-F4 are now all handled by dedicated buttons (step view, trigger layer, track group). I'm sure everyone would agree that user configurable buttons are preferable and more aesthetic than no buttons and some empty space there. I've been delaying ordering this panel from Front Panel Express for some reason, my subconscious was telling me "not yet" but I didn't know why. This change must have been the reason. Time to order the panel now, hooray!

You can adjust the label positions to suit... look at the other layouts to get an idea what's possible. The step LEDs are 3mm bicolor, so they could look like one row of TK's Duo LED matrix. Or not, the option is yours. It should be possible to put a 3-lead LED in the MEC 3F switch. You're looking at the dimension of the tallest kind of 1S cap. The ones in the bulk order are 16.0mm from PCB to top of cap. The real issue is these caps are 11.5mm between PCB and the start of the narrow part, i.e. you need 11.5mm of gap between PCB and panel. I've planned for exactly 10mm. However, it's probably not that big an issue, at 11.5mm gap, the encoder shafts will protrude enough to put the knobs on, and the LCDs mount directly to the panel as close as possible. You'll need some way of setting that 11.5mm gap, by making your own custom spacers or something. 15.2mm Too late. :) Actually, not that easy to do, there's too many traces there. I'm sure a combination of bending encoder leads, bending out the encoder mount tabs and maybe a little hot glue :) might be a sufficient workaround. Note also that a different encoder will have a different shaft height, so make sure there's enough shaft protruding to put the knobs on, or alternately, you could try making the panel holes bigger and making the knobs sit inside the hole (like on TK's MB-SEQ).

Here's an "artist's impression" of how it might look with MEC switches and caps. I like the rectangular buttons more and will continue using them. Note there will be no problem using the MEC 1D or 1E caps, they will fit nicely with the 10mm gap, 3mm panel, but I was unable to put proper pads for the LED leads of the switch, there are holes in the PCB for the LED leads to go through, but then you'll have to solder wires between the LED lead and nearby pads. Also, 3mm bicolor LEDs should fit inside the MEC 3F switch, but you'll need to make a hole for the third lead and add a wire to connect it. So, lots of extra soldering but not that hard to do. Similarly, there is only one rotary encoder footprint, but if you got creative, you could use another kind by bending the leads up and adding wires to the other pads - if you're using switched encoders, the pads for the switch might even align as well. NOTE: The bulk order of panels to be run by Doug will be based on the layout that uses the rectangular switch caps. MEC switches and caps are just an option for crazy people who want illuminated switches and are willing to pay/make their own one-off panels. I will make sure the MEC 3F switch fits the switch footprints on the PCB, but you'll have to customize the FPD file to suit your own needs. MB-SEQ_V3_snapshot_51_mec_1e.pdf MB-SEQ_V3_snapshot_51_mec_1d.pdf

This is the updated panel layout, changes: inc/dec/utility buttons swapped with cut/copy/paste inc/dec now are arrow icons beat LED now 5mm redundant "group" lines removed changed to black background (this is a Front Panel Express panel now). MB-SEQ_V3_snapshot_51_rect_caps.pdf

Which MEC switch cap do you want to use? The round ones from the "Custom MEC Love" thread, or the rectangular "ice cubes"? I'm assuming you mean illuminated switches and not discrete 3mm LEDs. If I'm going to draw up what it would look like, you might as well tell me what colour switch cap, LEDs, panel and artwork you plan on using. As I said in an earlier post, I'm not using MEC switches, the layout isn't ideally designed for them, but it should work.

I can't be bothered gathering names out of this thread, so here's the bulk order wiki page: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/wilba_mb_seq_pcb_bulk_order This is just a "get my name down" type of thing. I'll create a separate thread in the Bulk Orders section and "announce" this bulk order more formally after I've finished the prototype, but some of you just love to put your name down on bulk order wiki pages, so I aim to please... ;) Also, I might limit the first batch to 50 PCBs, so people following this thread now will have priority. PCBs should be ~US$25, other parts would be approximate retail costs from Mouser/Digikey plus share of shipping costs to me, which should work out cheaper than everyone ordering direct, especially for non-U.S. residents. As for panels, you will have two choices: wait for Doug to make some, or order them from Front Panel Express/Schaeffer.

You can regulate down to 12 V and/or 9 V with 1A regulators (7812, 7809) and then supply multiple SIDs with a common 12V and/or 9V supply. And you are right, you can also just rectify and regulate the 9V AC to 9V DC and join it's ground to the 5V/ground, instead of adding the 9V DC to 5V DC to make 14V DC and then regulating that back down to 9V. I implemented both these ideas on the MB-6582 base PCB and it works fine. I think the main reason it was done this way is because the SID module has a regulator on it, and for people who want to build just one SID module and one Core, they can supply the SID module with a separate power supply to the one that is powering the Core. Thus the step up to a multi-SID solution is simply to chain the regulator inputs - bypassing the regulators on the SID module and placing them on a separate board might be considered difficult for newbies and more prone to stuffing up and frying SIDs. It happens - when I first started my MB-SID V1 a few years ago, I fried some 6581s by forgetting to put in the 12V regulator and supplying 14V to them :-[

Doug Wellington is trying to get numbers for a bulk order of these PSUs... http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,10385.msg79945.html#msg79945

I want my two dollars

What parts are you having trouble finding?

It's not quite 1:1. Note the green "wire" connecting J14 to SO on the 2nd (right) SID. http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_8xsid_c64_psu_optimized.pdf Make your "twice as long" cable, but then splice out the wire going to SO on the 2nd (right) SID. Then solder to this wire another wire to join up to J14 on the Core. (i.e. the green wire in the diagram). Then you will effectively get what you want - a cable that connects to two SID modules. You can use a single crimp pin to connect the "green wire" to J14, or if you have none spare, maybe salvage a crimp pin with wire already attached from some other cable, maybe you have some spare cables that came with your computer... as a last resort, solder the wire to J14 :)

probably, I found it here: http://fukung.net/v/4574/White%20Ninja%20Dance.gif and then scaled it down.

de nada

I am actually pretty crap at writing ASM but fairly good at reading source... most of the time when I want to do something, I find where TK has done something similar and then copy/paste it and change it to suit. So, for something like what you want, I would first go have a look at how the mute track functions are implemented now... and here's a block of code that actually does the work, which is used within the handler for the GP buttons when in the Mute screen: CS_M_MUTE_GP_Callback_Mute ;; toggle mute flag lfsr FSR1, SEQ_TRKS_MUTED0 btfsc MIOS_PARAMETER1, 3 movf POSTINC1, W ; increment pointer if track > 8 movf MIOS_PARAMETER1, W call MIOS_HLP_GetBitORMask xorwf INDF1, F [/code] So basically you need to write a set of 16 button handlers much like the way the SEQ_BUTTON_Track1 etc. buttons are defined in seq_buttons.inc. Add the following code to seq_buttons.inc [code] SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrack1 movlw 0 rgoto SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrackx_Cont SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrack2 movlw 1 rgoto SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrackx_Cont SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrack3 movlw 2 rgoto SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrackx_Cont SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrack4 movlw 3 rgoto SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrackx_Cont SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrack5 movlw 4 rgoto SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrackx_Cont SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrack6 movlw 5 rgoto SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrackx_Cont SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrack7 movlw 6 rgoto SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrackx_Cont SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrack8 movlw 7 rgoto SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrackx_Cont SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrack9 movlw 8 rgoto SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrackx_Cont SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrack10 movlw 9 rgoto SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrackx_Cont SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrack11 movlw 10 rgoto SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrackx_Cont SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrack12 movlw 11 rgoto SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrackx_Cont SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrack13 movlw 12 rgoto SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrackx_Cont SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrack14 movlw 13 rgoto SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrackx_Cont SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrack15 movlw 14 rgoto SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrackx_Cont SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrack16 movlw 15 ;; rgoto SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrackx_Cont SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrackx_Cont movwf MIOS_PARAMETER1 ;; do nothing when button has been released btfsc MIOS_PARAMETER2, 0 return ;; toggle mute flag lfsr FSR1, SEQ_TRKS_MUTED0 btfsc MIOS_PARAMETER1, 3 movf POSTINC1, W ; increment pointer if track > 8 movf MIOS_PARAMETER1, W call MIOS_HLP_GetBitORMask xorwf INDF1, F ;; request display re-initialisation bsf CS_STAT, CS_STAT_DISPLAY_INIT_REQ return Then connect SEQ_BUTTON_MuteTrack1 etc. to buttons in the DIN entry table. BTW I didn't compile this code, and don't know if it works, I provide it only as a starting point. Note I took the mute function code out of cs_m_mute.inc instead of calling it directly because you said you didn't want it to change to the mute screen. If you are already in the mute screen when you press these mute track buttons, then the GP LEDs won't update because I didn't copy or call that code. You could get that to work too if you really wanted to, I just don't have time to do it right now ;) the best way would be to test if you're in the Mute scree when you press the Mute Track buttons and then make the Mute Track buttons act like GP buttons 1-16 by calling the same GP button handler.

Since all the Aussies are doing it... yeah I love kangaroo too. It makes a lot more sense to eat kangaroo than a sheep or cow, it's better meat with less fat. Kangaroos are not gentle, btw...

Does anyone know how to remove hot glue from PCBs and soldered joints likesuchas wires to panel mount sockets?

"ycdbb" sounds like more geekspeak ;) (I hope people know I was joking before)

first of all I have to say i haven't read the whole thread but the idea of running linux on my pc is scary... everyone knows u get what you pay for and since linux is free it must be crap... i wouldn't want a linux distro accidentally corrupting my boot partition and destroying my hard drive... u know how long it took me to download all the pr0n on it??? anywaze the only p33ple who would need this linux distro are those stupid p33ple who use macs cos if u run windows then everything u need for midibox just works and stuff and even the cool stuff that costs lots of money likesuchas logic u can just download cracks for like reel easy... peace out W1LBA

Read everything here: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/

Wow, that seller has a lot of other cool stuff, like a JDM programmer with USB!

You can be sure these are standard 16mm rotary encoders that are probably produced by SoundWell or another Chinese manufacturer: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,10184.0.html If you like the knobs then go for it, if you don't like the knobs, then your choices for different ones are limited because they are spline shaft... most of the knobs sold through bulk orders here will not fit, as they're meant to fit D-shaft.