Sasha

:o This will be great. Have you already tested those touch sensitive GLCDs? Do you expect, you can use this controller completely without looking at PC. If not, having all those fancy displays would make not much sense. Are you planing to make clip status feedback like Monodeck II... LEDs? Possibility to show focus clip name and time left would make it very useful. Monodeck is most useful Live controller I know, but I think you can make it way better.

If you know my work bit better you knew that I couldn`t ever lived with such imperfection. :P Oh, that holes... that`s fine to do it. Just take care if you don`t have experience working with acrylic as it can crack. The Grayhill shaft is fairly soft and don`t need to have exact length as you fix knob with the screw... so, I just cut it off with wire cutters after I mount it to the PCB.

:) Steve, look at the enlarged picture. You`ll see it is reflection. Why black keys are not reflecting the same, I really don`t know. but I ensure you they are all sticking out the same distance. There is no way PCB can bend just where the black keys are. The PCB is fixed to the panel in 3 positions very well and there is no any bending. Also I wouldn`t advise you to widen the screw holes on panel. Please think twice before you do that because in that case you will screw the PCB directly to the panel whish is NOT good idea. It will brake! Sub-panel is not there without a reason. I`m sure you can find some spacer closer to 10mm in US. Also, I don`t think you are pointing finger at me. I would really like to help you to make it right as you shouldn`t have any problems fitting it together. I did it with my 2 boxes and also unit-sound did it on his without much effort. EDIT: check out the marked edge on the picture in full size, and ignore what you see on the panel. ;)

??? I don`t know where did you look but that is NOT the case with my x0x. All the keys sticks evenly. If you cut pot shafts as suggested on ladyada instructions and use 10mm spacers everything fits perfectly. I also shorten the Grayhill shaft some 1-2mm to have the same space from the panel to the knob as it is on other knobs.

Don`t cut it out it, just file it down a bit at the top and bottom and it will fit. I draw the opening hole according to the switch, but there is another diagram in datasheet with dimensions of metal part that goes out of the switch. I draw the openings on panel without a part so I made that mistake. I didn`t mount the metal part on my x0x. The palel and sub-panels holds it in place firmly.

Here is the clockbox EPS layout for 8 x MIDI out if somebody needs it. The layout is tested and it it works OK. It could probably be better done but I`m new to Eagle. :P clockbox-io.zip clockbox-io.zip

You had luck. Adjusting the scope was much easier to do than kartoshka`s troubleshooting procedure. :P

I agree and I just don`t understand why Limor haven`t use the multiturn trimmer, or at least leave enough space so one could install it. I soldered multiturn trimmer tilted and with some wires to the power PCB but as it looked bad I removed it. I wished I had more eagle knowledge at the time I was working on PCB. I would change it much more. Probably some better design will happened when time comes. Good luck with troubleshooting. ;)

Thanks mate. ;)

For those of you that like to use 5mm LEDs, you can widen panel LED holes. I tried it today on a panel leftover... it is not fragile. But, pay more atention on subpanel. Use sharp drill bit and slow penetration. I advise you to have some piece of wood under the subpanel if you are using handheld drill.

Thanks stryd.

I have plans but not money. :( I need to sell my x0xb0x first to finish other dusty projects. There is not much I need to do, but the list of prebuilt projects are not so small. I do what I can with parts I have, but most expensive is the housing, so I left it for the end. ..and it goes like that with every project. I would like to house all the projects in proper metal housing with screenprint, but that is not cheap.

Malekko, tkank you for the details. Maybe would be good if you ask stryd to move your post to this topic: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,12462.0.html

You need to check it with your local distributor. Their products comes in warious flavours.

Malekko, the way you say sounds it is an error. 3mm suits better the small size gear and it looks more elegant than with those 5mm LEDs. It was 3 mm from the start, and I`m sure I wright about it. I don`t even remember I ever seen synth with 5mm LEDs. Anyway, the tastes are different, so if you like to widen the hole, I can try to drill a piece of same material and report it here. Acording to Rowmark it can be laser and mechanically engraved.

That is very nice scheibenenteiser. Been looking for it for a looong time. I`m gonna order it right now. Thanks SLP ;)

That link don`t work. I think it is the cookie problem

Than, welcome to real MIDI. ;)

...then, this is a wrong thread to post it. :) Anyway, looking good. Do you think the color on the buttons will last? Even it is paint for plastics I doubt it. What do you connect to DB port?

I don`t agree with this one. 5 ports is not THAT much if you don`t wanna chain MIDI devices.

Nice casing. What is it? Did you machined that openings for sockets or you did it by hand? It looks is it is cut accurately. I see you was short on green LEDs so you used black one instead. Interesting. :)

One more question... in order to position the sockets perfectly in center of openings using standard spacers I`d like to know in what the thickness PCB will be manufactured? Please, don`t answer standard thickness. ;)

It is close, but I think there is enough headroom. BTW 25V caps don`t have to be bigger than 16V. All of the 25V caps I find locally are smaller than those 16V. Some 16V are pretty small and some are pretty big. It probably have to do with different manufacturer.

I`m sorry to hear that. You should always troubleshoot from the start of the chain. You surely tested the adapter and it is just a short way from the connector to the diodes. Also, the pads are on same spot where is suggested on ladyada to cut the trace and mount the wires for the switch. We all had enough time to read everything about this project while waiting for parts we need to start building it. I wish your more luck in future with this project.

OK Nils thanks for explanation. All clear. ;) Doug, we are not all `mercans here. When have to, I deal with Inches, in decimal. Never used mils in my life and I have never even heard about it.