Sasha

...it is not "if anyone interested", rather for all of you interested. ;D Thank you very much. How about some software description for us non-programmers. What it exactly doing? Also could you post some more hardware details? Did you just connected IR opto and crossfader on free DIN AIN pins, or maybe directly to the core?

If place all resistor so tolerance is on same side too. :)but not really right and bottom as it depends of the way you look at the PCB. If there are some text on PCB you could tell what is left and what is right but if the PCB is DIY, it is impossible. I solder just a few times pro made PCB (MB6582 and MB808), all others are was DIY.

No, you are not. I just corrected you. ;) It`s pretty natural in. We all mix things sometimes.

rasteri, I`m so blown away by your video!!! :D For non-turntablist like me this sounds and looks very, very useful. Bravo! I`m going to build one myself just for fun even I`m out of scratching. It takes alot of practice to learn to do it properly and you actually never stop learning but it is fun to fool around with it. ;D So, what was cosing drifting? What do you think about bigger disc, and increasing the resolution? Would it cosed to feel less as the vinyl because of the different moving speed? Do you adjusting the sensitivity somehow? MTE did something like that on hs Traktorizer, and I`ve always thought it is a great idea if you can "tune" the response somehow.

Well, Nebula has nothing to do with this PCB. It is all Ultra`s work. ;)

Thank you.

I`m not sure which exactly model it was, but I also tested friend`s AKG closed headphones once and was extremely disappointed in sound quality. They sounded worst than 2$ chinese in-ear bugs. I was very surprised as AKG is respected manufacturer and I tested before those AKG141. They sounded pretty good even I just couldn`t pump it enough to test them properly. I read somewhere they are designed for chaining in parallel or something like that so they have to be high impedance. 600ohms! :o At the end I bough something completely different for first aid... Behringer HPX2000. They were pretty cheap... something more than 20EUR. I was very surprised with the sound quality especially when have in mind the price tag, and that can be pumped pretty well so I find them pretty good for bedroom DJing. They don`t look bad on picture, but I wouldn`t go out in public with it on my head as it looks kinda big and pretty funny. Sorry if I went bit off topic. ::)

Hey rasteri, that seams great. So, what is the final resolution at the end.. 360? What is the diameter of disc? How it feels compared to record or other digital scratch solutions? What do you think now about resolution? Will you try to go higher? What are the plans? Please wright some more details about it as you seams pretty competent to review it. Thank you. Also, I would really like if you Simone, or somebody else could bring that Spanish scratch project on light. @dstamand What is the resolution of that Maudio disc?

Seams Re`an distributors are nothing better there than here in Europe. I`ve had hard time communicating with them myself. :-\ I wish you luck.

Maan, some of us have problems even understanding English sometimes. ::) I was waiting for this project to show in English section when complete but as it didn`t it is like it don`t exist at all. At least for me. I used auto translators one for german/engllish and I find it more confusing than helpful for technical stuff. It`s more like just for knowing what is it about.

I get some mostly from printers. Most of computer peripherals with moving parts have it. Good luck and keep us informed. ;) As for encoder wheels... you better CNC it!

No, but knowing you are mostly in Psy, I expected you are not doing much scratching. Looking at your video (and many times before) I wasn`t convinced it is really good enough for real hip-hop scratching. EDIT: I dare you to let some scratch master to test your Traktorizer. I would really like to be proven I`m vrong. Honestly. :)

well, I asked you because you don`t usually see the impedance and tapper details on replacement parts shops. They mostly say just the model of mixer it is replacement for. What impedance is yours? I can see it is linear :)

With all respect Robert, I think that is not really useful for scratching, and belt driving mechanical encoder isn`t really good solution. belt slipping is very possible on your design when moving fast. It is great for winding and nudging but really not for scratching. :-\

That MIDI cutting seams fast enough. I really thought MIDI is not really usable for scratching. But seams I was wrong. What exactly crossfader you are using and where did you get it from? I doubt you can find high resolution encoder anywhere for some reasonable price, but you could make one for decent price. Check the small 80 steps I made last week on the page below. If it is size of a record you could comfortable fit much more than 256 steps you are expecting. ;) If I remember resolution of those code vinyls are much higher than 256 anyway. http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,10662.msg86906.html#msg86906

Cool, I`m out of inspiration now, which means I`m very satisfied with current design. :) I really like you posted the design here before going into production. To bad it is not always the case with DIY PCB designs. I think those few modifications your did after our suggestions improved it quite a bit even you already did all the hard and good work. This open designing gives it final touch. Thank you very much for your great work. ;)

Thanks Simone, it is 3.5 but i wonder how is 2.5 motor. I bet it is also good enough.

Thank you stryd. I`m sure results would be much greater if I own one. ::)

Cool. I love to see what`s under the skirt. Sometimes is nice and clean, sometimes messy, but it`s always interesting! :) I noticed your initial idea was using gray cap pot on every 4th step. I think you did good decision and it looks much sleeker now than it would look with those 4 gray caps knobs. Thank you for posting those pics for us gear porn lovers. ;)

I think it is perfect now. It can`t be too close if it is inside the PCB area. :) While looking at the only empty space on PCB (BTW. really tight packing!) I realized it can be used to lay the C5 horizontally. :D Just perfect. It can be done without further PCB modifications, but it could be double perfect if you rotate C5 90 degree so both pins of C5 can be bent in same spot. Much easier. ;) There are situations when hight matters. I saved alot of space placing those caps horizontally while building the Endorphin. Please don`t take it as a request if you think it is pointless. I am already very happy how that PCB looks now!

Great! Thank you. But, what about moving the regulator closer to the edge? It could reach it if the pins are little bent but would be better without banding.

Thanks swindus. Looking forward to see the pix. ;)

If you need only 2 pots, you can connect it directly to some of J5 pins, but you need to edit main.asm to work in unmultiplexed mode and recompile the code. Of course all unused analog inputs must be connected to the ground. ;)

Swindus, that is superb woodwork! :D Really classy. Congratulations. I`m interested to know few things... what kind of wood i is that? what you used to protect the it`s surface? how did you realized the horizontal corners? (top and bottom corners looks made out of solid part) I would really like to see some more pix including internals and read some more about it. Thanks in advance.

May I suggest to move voltage regulator more towards the edge (edge to edge). It gets pretty hot when you hook 2 backlite LCDs, so this way it can be screwed to the enclosure chassis, or longer heat sink. Same time you could be able to move the C5 bit left so you want have anything on the way when screwing the regulator to the heat sink or chassis. That is often ignored and I find it very important! I would also move the power header in line with the MIDI headers. It is not really necessary but it will look more tidy. Anyway, good work!!! ;)