Sasha

Thank you all. I get alot of help from the members of this forum in a past time including the master himself. After a long time knowing about this great project I still can`t belive how wonderfull it is. I just scratched the surface, and I can see long list in the menu left of other waiting MIOS projects. In a time I finish next one, there will be another one waiting to happend. I wish we can do something for TK If you want to make your panels easy and inexpensive pay atantion on this great marterial I used for my panel. In Serbia, I payed 65x65mm sheet about 20 Euros and cutting/engraving in 500 lpi resolution cost me about 12 Euros including cutting the base 3mm acrylic. http://www.rowmark.com/laser/Textures/textures.asp

Good looking-ugly SID synth you built man!!! I wandered how C64 looks in red, now I know. It looks happy :D I think you could arange knobs different to avoid empty space between them, but maybe it it for upgradeing to 4 SIDs?

oh, I think you already done it. I get a bunch of these from flie market. Buying new PS joypad is cheapest than buying 2 solo yoisticks from maker! I see those joisticks somewhere on the forum. Guy asked something... about joisticks not knowing it is same from PS.

Bill, you are wrong. Stryd made post about ps joisticks. He said centralisation spring can be disabled. I tried and it is true. Not dificult at all. Try it yourself.

Rigo, thanks for your offer for screws. First I must see do I have jitter still on my 100mm faders. I didn`t tried to ground faders metal shell. That will do. If get it work properly, I`ll contact you regarding those nice screws. About nice round buttons... I have ever seen nice looking round buttons in my life. I advise you to make yuor round holes squares, you can find plenty of good, and not expensive square buttons. I get samples from http://www.knitter-switch.com/ they have good pallete of buttons, caps, illuminated or not. As they have some collet or how you call it, can be inserted on not so perfect hole, cose it hides all edges. Thinh about it... ...and Stryd, as far as I know screenprinting povder coated metal is same as any other metal if you are using PVC colours. Clean the surface and shoot... :) If you want to make sure everything going to be OK aply thin layer of PVC colour on some part of powdercoatet sheet you don`t need and test it how it`s reacting. Shouldn`t be any problems. I`m not surer for PVC cleaning solution. It could be little more agresive than PVC colour. I must share my opinnion regarding finishing panels.... I think makes no sense of mixing good looking, expensive parts with some cheap, ugly parts. Final result is bad. My friend Rogic (find his midibox on the forum) made really great aluminum panel made on CNC machine which he payd farely much, but for finish he glued selfadhesive sheat of plasticated paper... final result... looking great from far but, come closer :-\ If I pay big bux for good faders, I`ll also pay big bux for knobs, buttons... If I pay big bux for CNC milled panel, I`ll surely pay for nice looking quality screen print. I am almost finish my midibox, and for panel i use lasercut acrylic base and special textured panel on top of it (looks and feels like powdercoated aluminum), also laser cut/engraved. It is producing in meny colours! You can combine different colours for different sections!!! Result - beautifull, rugged scratch/UV/acid resistant surface nice to touch with engraveing, which means it cannot be scratched down like paint. I love it! Clue... If you don`t have money for metal CNC cuted panel use laser cutter and cuttable materials, preferably 3mm acrylic (plexiglas) for base and other resistant sheets for laser cutters!! Ill post images of my box in a few days, and also brand of mentioned engraving material which I strongly recomend. It is some french company, dont remember the name.

I used to work in silkscreen industry, and i know for sure, you don`t need any oven. You must use PVC paint for panel ...you don`t have to "cook" it or fry it ;) I like your handmade panel, I used to drill holes and file down the fader places once for mixer... never again :) Wood is apsolutly great evry time. Gives those retro look. One thing I dont like at all is buttons. Those buttons are worst buttons I`ve ever tried, and they are wery popular. Probably because they are easy to mount. But, I am slave of easthetics so easiness is not good argument for using them in my aplications. I have question regarding your faders and screws you use. I also find those 100mm faders but I get alot of jitter with it. I thought it is because of lenght, cose they are acting like antenas and they pick alot of junk waves. Maybe I am wrong. And about fader screws... where did you get them. I cannot find screws with those fine thred.

Hm, I tought...instead of optocoupler transmiting and receiving part could be little bigger distance and that`s it. But if it is so simple it would probably be done till now. ;D rf PIC... sounds great if somebody do hard work, and we just make it phisical. ;) I know nothing about programing PICs ...just trying to follow the god of MIDI

As I get MIDI signal is just a serious of pulses, right? So, it must be wery easy to transmit/receive it wirelesly. I think easiest way is over IR. Somebody done something similar or have idea how to do it? Radio transmiting is better but I think IR is easier.

I done it, now it works. I dont know have i ever read about it and where. I read lots of times same documents but seams i often missing some information in the time i need it. Most dificult thing for me about MIOS projects is navigatin trough documents :)

Thx. Moxi. I`ll try it this way.

If this ansver is for me please confirm. For MB64E with 2 detended encoders for NI Traktor jogs on SR#1, pins 4&5, 6&7 I have to: 1. modify MIOS source code file "mios_tables.inc" like this 2. compile and upload MIOS 3. upload MB64E aplication file "setup_midibox64.syx" Am I right?

I am using MB64E and my encoders also acts like buttons. I too need only 2 encoders for NI Traktor jogs.

I have problem with my last midibox project. I uploaded MB64E aplication on MIOS v1.9. Instead of normal increase/decrease behaviour when moving encoder i get button behaviour (0/127 values). Where did I go wrong? I didn`t configured anything, just uploaded MB64E.syx files. I tried to switch encoder pins several times but same thing happends. I am almost sure all connections are good. I also tried different encoders, and different DIN pins without success. Here is snapshot moving encoder left and right:

Why? Display info is apsolutly irelevant. There is only matter is it common catode or common anode. Midimon uses common anode and I wanna use my common catode displays since i have alot of these. I ask how to modify dout for using them.

I just wantet to quote you Smash :)

Yes, if you use multi pulse rotary switch. I canot see anny good usage of the one pulse per direction rottary switch. It is more easy to increase/decrease by tapping the buttons than turning forth and back many so times with this one pulse switch. What matters is that this switch is almost not usable for MIDIBOX projects.

Thx Smash. Now thease things don`t looks so interesting to me... ;) BTW. above mentioned Knitter Switch have some nice illuminated buttons. I received few samples, and I am very satisfy how it looks and feel.

Kool, enybody tested these pulse switches, or whatever you call it, with 64E aplication? How was the results? Could somebody make comparison encoders with pulse switches.

I couldn`t open provided link to learn more about it, but acording to PDF looks like ordinary encoder with 20 pulses per circle, not one per direction. Can somebody explain it bit more.

I have a lot of common catode LED displays which I want to use in MIDIMON aplication. Is there a simple solution to use it, and if there are, please give me details what should I do exactly. Thanks in advance.

Check out this kool C64 catridge. Fortunatly I left one C64 in life. http://www.prophet64.com/cartinfo.html

If TK is using Protel or some other program it is not problem at all. ;) Which parts?.... well all I tried to find. Just take look in resistors or crystal for example. There`s so meny different packages and categories it is scarry. Most of the library items I`rarely see and I`ll never gonna use in my life. I can`t find any common item library with regular parts. I figured out I have to learn everything about package types for all parts if I want to draw simple schematic like core or some other TK`s project. I can draw core schematic in Corel for 10 minutes but dragging parts in eagle seams slow and confusing process. Sure, it should be very quick and easy if you know how HC49TL-H looks like ;D

I want to make some kind of stripped core without power supply and display adjustments. I also want to make it slightly bigger to make space for connectors I want to use. Also I want to join AIN,DIN,DOUT and LTC modules and put everything on one board. Finding right type parts in Eagle library to me seams almost impossible :-\. Ready sch files could be only way I could do it. Joining schematics together seams lot easier, so if somebody could post it it would be nice so I can play around with it, rearange it and maybe learn something easier way.

Great box man! And again, common question... how did you made panel and from what material? I also bought some old electric harmonica on flea market which i want to convert to MB SID similar to your design but without paching. As there is lot of space I am considering idea to stuck in my old PC.

Yeah, horizontal. I like Live, but missing that posibility makes it at least one class down than program deserves with everything besides that. 2 bad for that...