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MMorph

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Posts posted by MMorph

  1. What about letting one Core control more than 2 SIDs?

    Wouldn't be surprised if one Core could handle all the SIDs. These beasts are quite different type of league... Btw, here's another post by TK that popped on my mind: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,12632.msg106231.html#msg106231

    I don't know if 32-bits give any unconditional advantage over PIC (MBSID is just great thing already!), so it's also something up to the end user to decide. But sure it gives alot of freedom for new features (although the original HW design may be also limiting this but dunno, the STM32 does not have external bus anyway). I think the biggest down sides in 32-bit designs are the fine-pitch SMD cases and somewhat more complicated development tools. But nothing that one couldn't survive!

  2. Well, I think I should let TK speak for himself (I rarely take part on any conversation in here anyway so who am I to reply?), but according to this post there will be another version at some point: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,12673.msg106686.html#msg106686

    However TK probably wants to say something about this as well  :)

    That said something I can speak about: I decided to go for MB-6582. My original intention was to make a version of my own with some modifications, but the ready made PCB is just priced fair enough so I thought to save my precious time for another time and go with a known good design. Plus it's alot less hassle compared to building the thing from a separate modules - again saves my precious time.

    However I'm still thinking about implementing part of the mods I've had in my mind (to try them out if they make any sense). When/if there will be MBSID V3, I will start from scratch and re-make the synth with the new design. I'm actually all thrilled about the STM32 core (wonder if I could collaborate somehow).

  3. This is sweet, nice work! It appears that I've been away for far long time as there seems to be so much new to explore! Will really look forward on this, maybe have to finally put together SEQ of my own...

    But aren't those 32-bit micros just sweet as well? We have found that most of the recent projects at work are also based on similar chips (ARM7) as today the price is almost the same as 8-bit devices and you are having alot less limitations to deal with. It's not until higher production volumes when you really have to pay some attention on the micro to cut down the costs.

    I'm also happy that I'll be able to use the same tools with the MBHP_CORE_STM32  :D

  4. Not my call, but I'll reply to this anyway :P  We are using Winstar's 240*128 LCD modules equipped with T6963C at work. We can show values etc from the PC on device's display and the update times are about 10-15 milliseconds (not full screen though), where most of the lag comes from the IIC communication (the inner communication of the device). It's not even the T6963 that is slowind down the update speed - the bottle neck for speed would be the crystals of the display not changing rapidly enough!

    So this just for an example out from MBHP, maybe the design of IOWarrior is poor (haven't read the specs). Btw, TK have done benchmarking on different LCD's in past, maybe this reveals something about performance?: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=2169.0

    Plus we never should forget that if big part of the "intelligence" of the device lays in windows application (is this where the controlling of the lcd module is being done?), it never can be too fast - nor precise..  ::)

  5. More than once, I've been sure I've got just what I need.. and in the middle of going thru piles of junk I realize, "Yeah, it went to trash because I thought I'd NEVER really need it"..

    Actually it may take only couple of days to find out the truth that you are needing the thing you just thought you'd ever need.. On the other hand, without going thru all the forgotten stuff piled up you necessary wouldn't have remembered that thing anyway :)

    Throwing away old "junk" is always hard thing to do.. It's been few months by now since I moved up to my current location and there's still few boxes left that I don't know should I trash'em or not.. *sigh*  Some "anew found" treasures lies on my desk now, like some more parts for FM synth, MB controlled analogue synth.. Just needing time!

  6. Anyone else harnessing the massive power of a doorstop in an odd way?

    For heating, eh? After moving up to my current location I stuffed up all the comps (including couple old 19" servers) into one single room. Soon I found out that I don't need to keep the heating on at all in that room. Actually the room temperature was higher on that room than in any other in the house. So to cut down the less or more massive housekeeping costs I got rid of most computer hardware..

    Considering all the spam and DDOS attacks on me lately I'm considering loading two network cards in one to bring it up as a linux firewall.....

    ...but can't live without this! Things like OpenWrt and some cheap wireless router does the dirty job fine enough in home use and allows plenty of flexibility. Actually having a "better" firewall hardware was no good anyways if you got flooded with a pipe large enought to fill up yours...

  7. Nice find! It is being funny that it actually took a little bit of an effort to find couple of old soundcards to get these little chips. First I thought that these shouldn't be hard to find but.. This could be a good source for FM syth parts if someone just wants to arrange up things some :)  For some reason though there seems not to be quite many of Midibox FM synth builders? Hmm..

  8. Greetings,

    Yes, You are still able to save the chip indeed! I've done this couple of times in past as well. The plastic cover of the IC is quite soft and you can try to remove it as much as is being necessary to get something soldered to the pin. A file may be ok for this job but I did this with dremel - quick job and more nice looking result IMHO. Just need to be careful.. Good luck!

  9. Maybe I have to give it a try as well! I know there are synthesizers with similar joystick implemented but I have never had chance to use one. Without knowing any better I've always been just happy with all these knobs and clutches. ;D  However I think that top priority thing is to get everything into box now instead of my desk. I just haven't made up my mind on certain decisions and this could be one more thing to try at.

    Regards, Petri

  10. i have had a few peeling pads when doing these boards, it seems that the recoil from the pump hitting the hot pad/trace can strip it off sometimes... (it's certainly also bent some very thick wires) i'm going to get some desoldering braid instead

    Bingo! This is the very reason why I tend to recommend solder wick or similar stuff for desoldering instead of using desoldering pump if you are not being experienced in soldering. Applying a lot (well, too much) of heat will cause the pads to detach from PCB, especially if there is any force applied on pad. Yes, you can get the pads off with solder wick as well if you start rubbing it against the joint, but in my opinion it is still safer way that using a pump.

    Thus a trick for using solder wick that may not be so obvious: Solder the tip of the wick strip. May sound stupid, but the wick works best when there's some solder and extra resin in it. Apply only gentle force over the wick and joint and let the wick do the magic. Never start to stir around the soldering iron! If you are able to control the temperature of your soldering iron you may also increase the temperature little for this operation. Otherwise the temperature may not spread wide enough.

    Just my 2 cents.

    Regards, Petri

  11. Hmm, been wondering if it would make any sense to make external filter unit for SID. Having few filters in it, maybe even totally different of types, and then use whatever you want via filter matrix kind of coupling. It wouldn't be too hard to make with an analog switch matrix IC's although they are not available in every electronics shops and therefore being quite expensive. Though it would be nice to have more analog outs to control them.

    Then again could take some DSP chip and begin to program some earth shattering filters..! I think I still have one Freescale chip somewhere in my junkbox. Hmm.. :-)

    It's just.. Where do you guys get all of your time you need for building all this stuff?  ::)

    Regards, Petri

  12. Hmm, well I doubt that this would be an unnameized and modified copy of Thorsten's MIDIbox and MIOS by any means. Similarity exists but the idea behind this device is hardly that unique though. It is however quite possible that the inventors of this box have taken a look to MIDIbox as well - and who knows how many other projects and existing products around (eg. Doepfer Musikelektronik's stuff). I suppose MIDIboxers are free to absorb the ideas from the Mazer construction as well, which looks like pretty neat I think.

    Regards, Petri

  13. I suppose the solution depends on how much of money and effort you are willing to waste. Reed swtiches are quite easy solution but you need to hassle with the magnets then. Then again you could take a look on any hall-effect switches you can find. These may be quite expensive though.

    For the optical solution there are many kinds of opto switches around. This could be one candidate to replace old mechanical switches (Mfr. Optek):

    h10897.jpg

    However, besides that it's expensive I'm not quite sure if it fits on your construction. But, since it seems that it's being a sort of habit to recycle the old stuff, you could scrape up all computer mice you can find and use the light gates from there and make even better switch than the image above  :)

    Regards, Petri

  14. Well, after cleaning the contacts with pure alcohol there probably is no much you can do unless the contact pads are heavily oxided. The problem most likely lies on the buttons. Besides that these can get as dirty as the contact pads on PCB, they tend to wear out as well. Using solvents on cleaning them isn't recommended though.

    Edit: Ah, Smash got it first. I thought there was some sort of contact restorer available around but couldn't figure it out.

  15. For soldering SMT chips I prefer similar technique as described by Kevin Ross at http://www.kevinro.com/newdocs/learningcenter/surface.htm Click on the video to see how easy it is!

    Instead of using paste flux like he does, I use felt-tip pen like no-clean flux pen (liquid content).

    Quick summary:

    • Presolder the pads if the boards is homebrewed (use only small amount of solder)
    • Apply some flux over the pads on PCB (don't soak it, but having too little of flux is bigger problem)
    • Align the part on PCB and heat the opposite corner pins to get your component hold on its place
    • Slowly drag the soldering iron across the pads, close to the pins of the component. If there was right amount of solder on pads, there wont be any bridges to be removed and the result is top notch!

    Actually this result can be achieved even if you don't have the smallest tip attached on your soldering iron. So maybe you don't even need to buy a new tip, unless your current tip is really huge :) On the other hand, using this method you need to buy some flux unless you happen to have some available by the time.

    Regards, Petri

  16. Well, I'll post this here this time instead of spamming TK's mail  ;)

    I did happen to find one more card that no one seems to have listed yet: Creative's Vibra 16 (code CT2260). And it includes both the DAC and FM chip, one of each o'course.

    Regards, Petri

    Edit: I still seem not to be able to spell properly  :-[

  17. Did re-read the datasheet and according to the need of negative VO the datasheet says:

    Supply Voltage For LCD = VDD - VO = -0.3...+7V

    Which translates to:

    VO = VDD - VLCD

    And while your VDD is +5V, the VO should be within range of:

    5V - (-0.3)V = +5.3V and 5V - 7V =  -2 V

    Now these are the maximum values that should never be exceeded or it will break down the display.

    However the datasheet also suggests that the typical VLCD would be 4.5V @ 25C temperature, so the typical V0 would be 5V - 4.5V = +0.5V

    Did I get it all wrong now? Someone? This is how I interpret the datasheet but something can be lost in the translation ;-)

    BTW: A good trick to generate the negative voltage (if needed) is also to use a standard MAX232 or similar RS232 converter. Just feed logical 1 to TX input and voilà, you have generated negative voltage on other side. No need for external inverter, specially if you are working with a design that already have RS232 interface (chips tends to have two RX/TX pairs).

    EDIT: One addition. And a typo (again).

  18. Now it's being quite a while since I've used a display that required negative voltage for LCD. However if I did eye the datasheet correctly it doesn't need much of negative voltage, only under 1 volt or so, depending on the ambient temperature. So adjusting this on some direction does not have any affect on having black rows or how is it?

    Regards, Petri

  19. Right now it's all connected, AIN's DOUT's Core and LCD's

    What's the function of the AIN module or just a typo of DIN?  ???  For your problem then, you could try to disconnect the backlight of LCD's to reduce the need of current and see if that temporary solves the problem. Just like seppoman, I'd as well recommend feeding the 5V regulator with less that 15V. Otherwise it produces alot of heat. And there are no shorts of any of kind, right?

    Regards, Petri

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