kokoon

yes, 1 IN + 1 OUT per SID. although you can chan them internally and have just 1 IN and 1 OUT overall. but it's better to mix them with an external mixer.

zx spectrum

and your S/N ratio improves a LOT. though yours is already pretty perfect... how'd you do that?

that's great man, i'm happy for you. i remember the moment i heard mine for the first time :) joy.

hahaha wtf was wrong with me last night?!? that second post belongs to the other thread... the one about the MBSID drummachine...

oh... oops i just read again your post... that would mean that patches wouldn't include the filter settings (modulations)... that's quite a limitation. i understand it though (only 1 filter for all channels) but maybe something like one filtered voice per SID would be sensible? the patches could all use filter as a modulation target but only 1 could be selected at a time (or all 3 but then un-modulated, like an eq)... so all the patches should sound okay both with filters and without. how does that sound TK? makes any sense? hmm now that i think about it again... dinamically changing patches would mean turning filter channels on and off all the time which would probably cause quite alot of clicks and pops... anyway - any alternative ideas? it'd really be a shame to give up filters.

i'm not sure what you 2 are discussing here but from what you wrote - after setting the "filter" just on the master, C1 would produce kick+snare and everything else would produce just snare.

hey i'm from slovenia and i got like 10 C64s i less than a month. check out the fleamarkets, buy magazines where people sell stuff (i don't what's that called in english - in slovene it's called "mali oglasi"), check out this kind of pages (slovak) - i'm sure there are a few.

awesome idea - before weekend i will make 8 BD patches, 8 SD, 4 OH, 4 CH, maybe some rimshots, cymbals, ... unfortunately snare will sound really poor with just 1 osc... i'll see what i can do... maybe i can modulate the noise at high enough frequency so we get the lower snare harmonics? LFO won't do though... maybe WT modulation? how fast can that be?

yeah that bridge is just 4 diodes interconnected. glad you made it dcreatorx. i too think it's fun to stretch your brain a little and plan the circuit ;)

no problem man, i'm glad i could help. if you're still having troubles with putting together your optimized psu you can check this thread where i posted photos of mine: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=5122.0

wow thanks 8)

okay guys note that i'm also a newbie in all this but still i managed to build this optimized psu without any problems. these are 2 photos of it - if it's of any help: it works but i probably could've done it alot better. any suggestions appreciated!

i'm really not sure but i don't think you can use 1x16 lcd... i mean... one line should be for parameter description and the other for parameter value... or maybe i'm wrong?

what i did was mount the SIL headers (i think it's called that way - just the "pins" stuck together on plastic - like for jumpers but only 1 row) - like everywhere else. then i took 2 wires, stripped somewhere between 5mm and 10mm of isolation, "twist" the wire ends together, dipped in flux resin and applied some solder. so they stick together fairly strong. then i applied some solder on the SIL header pin. then i just soldered them together easily without any additional solder. (similar as at the bottom of this page http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_core.html )

haha that's almost exactly the same text as my post :D you probably missed mine though ;D

the multimeter can also test (measure) resistance and it does it by applying a small voltage to the meter probes. that's why it has a battery. if there's no connection between the points then you get infinite resistance - otherwise you get zero or small resistance (or a different resistance if there's a resistor or something like that on the path). at least that's how i do it but nobody told me that so it's possible it's not very good for some components... but i doubt it's very wrong.

by "test it" i meant check all the connections. you can use the multimeter for that - just check if there's a line from one element to another. but if you're not sure how to do this then just check it again against the schematics and the plug the c64 psu in it. and hope for the best :) the worst you can do is to blow the psu fuse or destroy some of the elements on your circuit (although i doubt that).

why does the PSU weight bother you? the whole idea of this is that you can use the original PSU. it's a good one and it serves the MBSID perfectly. also - i don't think such a transformer can be much lighter. so you haven't tested your circuit yet? first check it with a multimeter so you don't blow the fuse in the C64 PSU.

i really doubt it. in fact i'm pretty sure not. it says "c64 recreated on single chip" whould would probably mean the c64 is emulated.

regarding the connector legs - what i did was make the breadboard holes bigger. just use a spike of some sort or a very small cross-shaped screwdriver... just widen the 6 holes. regarding the rest of the construction... what exactly is the problem? you can see from the schematic which part is connected to which right? i could take a photo of mine but 1) i don't have the camera with me now (only cellphone camera) and 2) i think it's a good first-step effort to make this. sort of an excercise ;) if you absolutely can't manage to make it then sure thing - we can help you out - but first try it yourself. take a piece of paper (resembling your breadboard) and try drawing the components on it. if the connections (wires) cross then you'll have to use the isolated cable (you understand this right?) or a bridge on the other side (provided you have room for it - no component at that exact place). so - the fewer the crossings, the easier the work to do. ofcourse you shouldn't take this "optimization" too far - that could result in even more complicated shematic (i hope you understand what i mean) - i got 4 jumpers at the end i think. or maybe 5. after you draw it you just place the components in their places and solder them. then you clip off their legs and solder the connections like you draw them. you can use the cut off legs. or instead of cutting the legs you can bend them to make connections and then solder them. ask specific questions and we'll (well at least I will) answer - i know this can be a pain in the ass but once you get it going it's really nothing special.

well the 9700 is just perfect IMO - the 4 modules actually contain like 15 modules. 2x VCO, 2x VCF, 2x VCA, 2x EG (AR), 1x EG (ADSR), 1x SLEW LIMITER, 1x NOISE, LFOs, ... and even more. and for only 450$. the synthesizers.com 100$/month scheme is also interesting but in the end after paying the 1200$ you only have a handful of modules. much less than the paia. then maybe the doepfer modules. they're pretty cheap too. that's what i'm looking at - at the moment :)

hmm sounds good... and i've heard the samples on paia.com. do you find it useful for stuff other than basslines? cause... i'm thinking - maybe it's worth shelling out another 300$ and get the 9700... that thing KICKS ASS! i'll probably end up getting both. BUT WHY IS FATMAN V/HZ!? you can't even drive it from tb-303!

yeah i know about Fatman - actually right now i'm considering buying it... seems a nice and cheap monosynth.

that's all perfectly clear to me - apparently the constant for linear mode (V/Hz) i was speaking about is well below 0.01 all i'm saying is that V/Hz would mean "one volt per one herz" which would logically result in "880 volts (ouch) for 880 herz (A-5)" instead it's apparently "X volts per one herz" where X is < 0.01 (roughly from your numbers) but all that doesn't have anything to do with your initial post. i was just expressing my dissapointment about the MS-20 (which i always thought a synth to have once) being V/Hz - meaning it's incompatible (CV-wise) with the great majority of the modulars out there :)