audiocommander

http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=c_tips_and_tricks_for_pic_programming see Arithmetic Calculations ;)

Hi Cimo, I answered to your PM, that's why some points are missing: You cannot insert C code into ASM, but you can insert ASM into C code. And you can of course translate C into ASM; from what I've read here, it's the recommended way to develop complex ASM applications: prototype it in C, then translate it piece by piece to ASM. Unfortunately I can't help you with that, because I understand a bit, but don't "talk" ASM :-[ Altering the AIN-Deadband can reduce jitter, but be aware of the fact that it also reduces the overall resolution ;) If you want to put that GP-Sensor into a MB app, I'd think you could search for a fitting op-amp, this might be the easiest solution without touching the software at all! Can anybody recommend an opamp that can increase 2.4V to 5V? Regards, Michael

you could connect your multimeter to the conductors and try to measure: - the voltage (0-5 V range I'd guess, max 12 V); if you disconnected the pad, I would not connect any voltage to it if you don't exactly know how much volts it can take... - the resistance (I'd try 10k at first, but could be anything) obviously you could try touching and/or pressing the pad while measuring. Of course I think you know what you're doing and you can identify the ground and the poles. Be careful, don't shortcircuit anything esp. not yourself! One never knows which parts hold high voltages... If you don't want to touch anything inside with your multimeter, maybe you could take some pics and post them somewhere? Cheers, Michael

what soundclips do you mean? the speakjet clips? => http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=midibox_speakjet rgds, Michael

I think the Kaoss Pad Technology is totally different from the XY-Pads from Spectrasymbol. SpecSym use a resistance based technology with two layers, one of which is conductive carbon. By pressing down, the circuit is closed and a value is submitted. This technique requires some pressure, whereas the Clickwheel in the iPod for example is capacity based (AFAIK), because it just needs the skin of a finger to work... I always thought the KP might also use something tricky with pressure pads on each of the four corners, because when you remove the printed sticker, it looks like a normal glass or plexi pad ??? Has anybody yet opened a Kaoss Pad? ;D Cheers, Michael

ah, I already answered you, 'cause I'm working over my messages in the past few days, so with your permission, I'm posting, what I answered you by PM: Hi Cimo, sorry about my delayed answer; I've been travelling (unfortunately working and not recreating :-\ ) There are several possibilities for you: 1. Use a Capacitor to reduce the jittering (search for a posting by goule in the forums!). This does not interpolate the range, though; although there are some postings around that recomment to use an op-amp to increase the signal range to full 5 volts. However, I never found the right op-amp for this, there are just too many without datasheets out there 2. To interpolate the range, you have to use some calculations. I recommend, that you download my sensorizer code and see if something can be used. The principle is also described here, as well as the download links: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=acsensorizer The Sharp sensors provide a signal voltage of ~0.5 to 2.4 V (AFAIR!), if you read that as 10-bit value (MIOS_AIN_PinGet) you'll receive: ((1024/5)*0.5 = 103) as zero and ((1024/5)*2.4 = 492) as max value. If you want a 7bit value (0-127), you still have 492-103 = 389 steps that you can now use to calculate the 0..127. If you have only the same sensors, you can hard-calculate these values; if you want to connect different sensors, I just can give you the answer to use the Sensorizer, because that's exactly why I built this thing It has an auto-sense MIN/MAX, so the minimum and maximum 10-bit values and also(!) the factor used to interpolate the perfect range are calculated automatically!!! In a few days I will release another sensorizer, the sensorizer mini, a much smaller version, with just 4 encoder + 4 buttons and 2x16 LCD; a much improved interface... And here's another hint: I would recommend to use only encoders for surface controls. I had terrible results when I tried to mix AIN-Pots to control values along with Sensors on the same AIN-board, because it introduced jittering on the AIN-pots which really makes the whole thing quite unuseable... hope this helps as a first answer Michael Edit: Just read about Midi-OX and your new Powerbook: you can use MidiPipe (http://homepage.mac.com/nicowald/SubtleSoft/ ) for all kinds of midi-manipulations ;)

Don't bother with ASM, use C! This way you cannot alter the mb64 software, but rather develop a new one. Your task (receiving PRG-CH -> switching DOUT, connected to a relay) is extraordinary easy to implement, as long you are not keen on using bankstick'n'SysexVideoPhoneLANsupport...if you know what I mean ;) Take a look into the Wiki -> AppDev and on TK's C-page on uCApps! Cheers, Michael

LOL! ...and I always thought, I'd be the only one producing ugly holes ;D

congratulations you succeeded so fast! :) I think, the LED digits are indeed the best way to go... Cheers, Michael

oh, Twin-x, I'm lucky not being you :) Thanks for your effords, this weekend must have been hell! At least now I know that I'm quite addicted, cause I missed the mb-forum alot... now if I could only remember what I've added to the c tips and tricks page on friday ??? <scratch-head>

Hello xoooox, it is quite normal, that you see your program when you upload it. I mean, I'm no binary talking computer, but this looks like a small MIOS-application. Now wait until MIOS restarts the box and your Init() function should be processed. If not, then check if you're uploading the right file. Maybe connect also an LCD. With MIOS_Print_...() you can see what's going on and don't have to peek in the Midi Monitor. If you're looking for more examples, see this page: http://www.ucapps.de/mios_c.html (scroll down to the bottom of this page and you'll find a bunch of C-Examples!) regards, AC

hehe ;D ...if the pin is uncooler than cool... I like that :) You could take a look in some examples to find out how to deal with the DISPLAY_Tick() function; clearing the screen takes some time, but in your case (not time critical) your solution to it is quite fine! ;) No, and yes: You have the possibility to generate custom chars, but as there are only eight chars storeable (0x0 to 0x7). This way you could define different sets of custom chars and swap while displaying, but I fear, that this would be a quite advanced task and I'm not sure if it's possible to swap the charset while being displayed all at once... :-\ But MIOS also supports GLCDs (Graphical LCDs); you could customize this freely; but I think there are not so many examples available and I've never worked with GLCDs by myself... You could take a search for Captain Hastings GLCD and CLCD tools here on the forum – and they are linked in the Wiki (appDev -> LCDs), if you're interested. Best regards, Michael

hey Carsten, you asked how to connect these buttons and I meant, if you press the button it should beep, if you release it, it shouldn't beep (ON/OFF); Again, it is sufficient to connect just two legs of the button. but anyhow, no fuse should be blown when a DIN button is closed; therefor your have the resistors on your DIN-board (and you have them, haven't you?). I don't know if the Caps are placed right, they look a bit wide spaced? I have no DIN board here that's not hidden inside a box, and (to be honest) I'm not in the mood to look it up for you; so please just check against the PDF-drawings you can find on the DIN-pages on uCapps. You can easily find out where they belong, they're in the plans. And most times they go straight from + to GND. Not sure about this, but: Your cap is looking very large, is it the right type? Normally they should be small and yellow and show a "104" (100N). If you got the wrong caps, maybe there's a short between + and - ? that would explain a blowing fuse! Anyway, I think it does not harm to check again all plans; I think most of your questions can be found out if you print the plans and check against your wirings. Hope that helps a bit, ;) best regards, Michael

super! :) habe gleich auch noch eine preprocessor-macke dazu-getragen :) Grüße, Michael

well, I'd recommend a DIN module, although you can work with MIDI-Messages for Input-Control / DOUT-operations; an LCD is very useful to know what's going on (if you stuff it with an plug, you can re-use it later on). MIDI I/O (one in/ one out) is part of the Core, as are eight AIN-inputs, so no AINx4 needed if 8 pots are sufficient. best regards, Michael

Hey Dolphinicus, I'm not into Gate Sequencers (so I may be missing something elementary here!) but as long as the gate is just a +5V signal with no (or not much) current drawing, I think you could handle this with DOUT modules? In this case, you could build a CORE-Module with a PIC 18F452 (the default one for MIOS), upload MIOS, choose additional I/O modules and start programming your own MIOS-application :) Cheers, Michael Edit: I would recommend programming in C, which should be a lot easier than learning ASM... and the available application skeletons are very good! I wrote kind of a simulator/debugger for C-based projects (ACSim), not very elegant, but useful... take a look at the Wiki -> Application Development ;)

Hi Macsurfer4, I don't know if there's a "hack" to enable an 8 digit display for MB64 (can be...), but your demands are a quite simple task for programming your own application in C. Sending a PRG-CH from the DIN_Notify-Function needs two lines of code (MIOS_MIDI_TxBufferPut: MIDI-PRG-CH + Value), switchin an LED takes also just two lines (MIOS_DOUT_PinSet...: all off, last one on); Implementing an 8 digit display would require to switch multiple DOUTs to build the relevant numbers, not really a lot more complicated ;) So, if you're not using any other functions from the MB64 app (like banksticks, LCD-menus or sth like that), this seems like a doable task for programming beginners! You could also do a seach in the forum for segmented LED displays, I think there are some threads around... Cheers, Michael

Reichelt has these: http://www.reichelt.de/?ARTIKEL=DTL%202%20BL The datasheet says, they're from http://www.ittcannon.com I think they should be common elsewhere, if you're not from Germany...

cool! :D

take a multimeter, set it to check diodes polarity (that means it should beep when you connect both ends) and put it to two legs. you should hear the beep if you press the button. you just need two legs. regards, Michael

I'm more thinking about in a long term... I would develop a new software! As I like the idea of the Monome, but don't like the idea of having no MIDI I/O but only USB, I'd be intrested in developing an intuitive input interface for Midi, where the program itself isn't running on a PC but on the PIC. Basically I'd have a 64 button-matrix (as the monome), and maybe additionally somewhere decently placed, one or two buttons / encoders / dunno to select different programs, switch functions/modes, shiftmodes (0-63/64-127) and so on... maybe one large linear position sensor (eg spectra softPot) or something like that... have you seen this one: http://www.youtube.com/w/Toshio-Iwai-(TENORI-ON)-@-Artfutura05?v=WQq2aXvIsz4&search=japn Basically it does not use buttons, but an LED-Matrix that is used also as button input (there should be a thread here somewhere about that; I don't think the concept itself developed further, the knowledge on how to use LEDs as LightSensors is quite old...) Anyway, I don't have a special plan right now, I'd just be interested in having a universal controller with a nice button matrix... :) However, I think I'd have time to develop something next year soonest, so... :-\ let's see... Cheers, Michael

just to give a feedback on the last post: I haven't yet tried this suggestion, as this implies that I either have to get MPASM to work properly on my PC or GPASM on the Mac... I tried to recompile the PIC16 Firmware with GPASM some while ago, but that failed for some reason, whatsoever. ...and a vapor-ware-note ;D: I've promised to release the code in about two months which is now; but I am still not pleased with the current version. If anyone is keen on the current version: PM me and I'll send you the sources! Cheers! Michael

Hi Roger, I appreciate your arguments! :-* ;D I'm sure, these EAO switches are great, but I want to note, that illuminated EAO-Switches are priced from ~7 EUR to ~40 EUR; most of them ~20,- EUR each! ...so we're talking about a button matrix of eg. 8x8 buttons, we got: 64 switches (let's say for 18,- each): 1152,- EUR (!) even if there would be switches for 8,- EUR this would still be 512,- EUR... A complete stuffed Monome is 500,- $! 64 rubber-switches by using 4 of these Matrixes: 80,- + 68,- PCBs = ~ 150,- $ Anyway, I have to admit that I haven't thought of erosion/corrosion problems... :-\ However, I just saw that the PCBs are out of stock :'( Cheers, Michael

Hi thetimboroni, not sure what you mean with: J12 and J13 are the MIDI ports.

Hi Screaming_Rabbit, I strongly disagree! ;) There are rubber button pads on my mikroKONTROL and there are rubber buttons on my Electribe. All of these are nicely to touch, easy to trigger and provide a good haptic feedback. The switches I used to build in various DIY-stuff really suck. They are expensive, even more expensive with visual feedback (LEDs), they begin to make noises somewhen (quieek! ...no joke: LED-Switches for 4,- EUR each), they're ugly, you have to concentrate to get the position, because they are tiny and the distance to the panel is too long, that is, you cannot easily "flow" over the panel with your fingers... let's say the rubbery ones remind me of a modern computer keyboard, while the others are like industrial typewriters. Of course I don't know how these matrix-buttons feel, but looking at the backside, I expect them to have a nice feeling (and looking at the price, I expect that, too ;D ) But I agree with Jidis, it would be interesting having someone around here who has a Monome or maybe worked with this Button Matrix! Best regards, Michael