Katch
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Posts posted by Katch
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Now we need Jason to step up and Sammich this up :)
Amazing work! -
Check the resistor networks are soldered correctly and well on the control surface. Post some high res photos of your boards front and back and we can see if any of the solderwork looks suspect. If you take a look through the forum for people with Sammich issues - they are usually caused by poor solderwork or PSU spec.
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You have a pm with my details if you want to pack it up and send it my way.
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The arrows indicate pins that you have to be careful don't short on the heatsink on the board below.
Agree the whole solder job looks bad. At a guess, you were using lead-free process without a decent flux and the iron not hot enough.
CS needs to be completely reflowed and any destroyed traces will need to be bridged with wire. If you can ship to the UK I'll take a look at it - I have a working Sammich to swap test on to make sure nothing on the main board is wonky too.
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Where are you based?
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A good culprit to look at when you have flakey controls are the resistor networks (long thin black components on the control surface) - these were the cause of a lot of my CS issues with my build and desoldering and reflowing was the fix.
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I'm going to take a guess that poor solder work is probably the culprit. It can cause both of the problems you are experiencing.
Swap test your SIDs (swap left right) if the fault follows the chip then you have a faultly SID, if it stays with the socket - refer to my first suspicion, poor solder work.
Do a visual inspection of all the solder joints - post high res photos of both sides of both boards if you can - and we can take a look.
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Is it going to be ok to mix 20k and 10k variable resistors?
i.e. 20ks on the pitch faders and 10ks on the POTs and 5 channel faders?
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@katch:
the 2 fader from the technics sl 1210mk turntables are linear ?
Yup, these should be ok right? I can even source the fader plates to build into my controller. I really like the idea of having a controller with pitch control which doesn't just feel like my turntables but actually is the same.
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hmmm,
maybe I'll just drop the DoutX module all together for the sake of simplicity.
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Quick schematic;
The 5 LEDs are gonna need to light up to show that CUE is actively listening to a given channel. Am I on the right track here?
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With regard the allen and heath diffusers;
I love Allen and Heath, always have always will. I used to live in Cornwall in a place called Falmouth just a few minutes from A&H HQ. The staff and engineers their are more than helpful. Drop them a line via their website and request the LEDs as spares.
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Nothing on the market quite seemed to fit the bill when I started looking for a control surface to handle Traktor and Ableton (along with many other VSTis and Music Apps). So I got to thinking, surely it can't be too hard to build a custom interface.... a few googles later and I find you guys.
Looks like much of the hard work has been done already so hopefully this should be a pretty straight forward project.
So here's the concept; (don't you love ctrl c & ctrl v)
32 Rotarys
8 Faders (2 actual technics pitch controller spares)
24 Buttons
5 LEDs
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Right about here is where I start needing a little help;
Shopping list;
Core Module
2 x AIN Module
DIN Module
DOUT Module
32 Rotarys
8 Faders (2 actual technics pitch controller spares)
24 Buttons
5 LEDs
An Enclosure
A Power Supply
Your initial thoughts reactions and input would help a great deal.
Tnx
Question about MIDI wiring
in Design Concepts
Posted · Edited by Katch
Wasn't really sure where to ask this question and Midibox was the only community that I could think of that would have the knowledge to help. I have a couple of old Allen and Heath Xone 1D controllers. They have a built in USB MIDI interface that they have abandoned support for. Short version, they no longer work above Windows 7 or OS X Mountain Lion, rendering them pretty useless today.
As a workaround, you can power them over USB and then feed MIDI out via a cheap Chinese 1x1 USB MIDI cable. Now this is less than ideal, as now I need 4 USB sockets as well as trailing 4 MIDI cables from the back of the units.
So I was wondering if I could do a bit of a ghetto mod and fit the USB MIDI interfaces internally? Basically open them up, solder the MIDI IN and OUT directly to the IN and OUT sockets from the inside of the chassis. Disconnect the USB data +/- from the built in MIDI interface and then connect the 5v/Gnd/D+/D- from the new interface to the panel mounted USB B socket.
In theory, this should allow me to plug a single USB A to B cable into each unit which will power the controller and the new MIDI interface. The interface is hardwired to the sockets, so I should get MIDI signals IN and OUT over the new interface.
My only unanswered question is, will the MIDI IN OUT THRU on the back of the unit still work as expected when hard wired in this way?
Also, I know I will need to be careful about current draw when wiring up the 1D and the new interface together on the same 5v source. I'll check current draw of both parts before committing to this idea.