Jump to content

i45one

Members
  • Posts

    38
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by i45one

  1. If you noticed I talked about both sides of the board. On those connections the traces are on the top of the board. I soldered the resistors from the bottom originally. Best I can tell the "through hole" plating was off because the joints were fine on the bottom surface. Soldering the joints from the top solved the problem. I found it using your app. I found that by pressing on the area around JD6 lights would come on, go off etc.

    The exact joints that were off were JD6:D3 and D4. I soldered all of those resistors from the top and the thing is rock solid. If it's not on the wiki, you should put that app on there as a general testing tool. It saved my butt, and quickly at that.

    Now if I can get those two crippled 6581's out of it will be pretty much perfect. Last two 6582's should be here Monday.

    Any recommendations on pots? The ones I got were way too big to fit the back panel.

    Thanks again!

    #78 :-)

  2. gah! i fixed everything except for the 3rd row which is still dead as a doornail. that app is a GREAT thing to have. It turns out that there was a cold solder joint on one of the resistors, I dont know which one because I just reheated them all and everything else lit up.

    Still cant figure out whats up with that 3rd row.

  3. Thanks Wilba! I will try this when I get home and let you know the result.

    From previous testing I know the LEDS are functioning. My meter in continuity mode presents a led friendly current. I am able to light each LED individually from the main PCB points, and CS PCB points. I can also rule out bad registers as I have rebuilt the whole DOUT section with the exception of the transistors. I don't have any spares lying around. If you think that might be the cause I will replace those too.

    I don't know if this tells anything, but I noticed that when I provide current to that row, those LEDS are a little brighter than the other rows. This led me to believe that I might have a bad resistor pack. I replaced all of that with different resistor packs and got the same result.

  4. Thank you SOOO much Wilba! I'm going to give the app a shot. LED issues aside, this thing is a freaking beast of a synth. I can't stop playing with it.

    Ran the app, and unless I am missing something, it only goes through the matrix led's. Cool little app though. And you are correct in your assumption that sid 2 doesn't light. I think your diagram will be VERY helpful in what to look at to try to solve the non matrix issue.

  5. Now that my ISP is back up...

    Here is what I've found after digging a little deeper:

    Leds that don't work:

    LFO/3

    Control/Knob

    Waveform/Triangle

    Waveform/Random

    Mode/Sync

    Mode/Edit

    As the plot thickens, I've not had a chance to look at diagrams to see if all of this is related to one thing. If this lights a light bulb, please feel free to share.

  6. Again, I've checked for shorts to ground. No shorts. As far as detecting pulses, I have no scope. What controls that line(what is the origin of the signal? I want to trace it from the start instead of the end of the signal. How hard would it be go script something to hold all LED's in a lighted state? I know there is a matrix test, but it doesn't work with this box. Anyone know how to modify it for the MB-6582?

  7. If it is only one row of the LED matrix at fault, then other horizontal rows are working, and LEDs outside the matrix, so thus the current sinking is working, and the current output of the first 74HC695 is working for the other pins.

    So the problem MUST BE somewhere between U21 pin 5 and the start of that connection to the row of LED anodes which is to the right of the matrix.

    It could be on the base PCB, or in the cable, or on the CS PCB.

    Test between the IC pin itself (from the top) to JD6:D5 on the base.

    Then from JD6:D5 on the base to JD6:D5 on the control surface PCB.

    Then from JD6:D5 on the control surface PCB to the third row of LEDs... this is visible from the bottom as a horizontal track going through the LED anodes.

    All of these were the 1st thing I checked. I have continuity from pin 5 of U21 all the way to the last LED on that row.  Everything is good there. I even checked continuity from pin 5:J9/J8 to  pin 13? of U21, continuity there too. This one has me stumped. What can I check higher up in the circuit? Is there anything that will make ALL of the lights on this thing wake up? I know all of the encoders are working. The way I checked the lights was to push the matrix buttons. They flash one time when pressed. when pressed on the bottom, the column lights up minus the 3rd row, all rows are functional except for the 3rd.

    Thanks for the input so far  ;D

  8. I removed the LCD just for good measure, same thing, same thing. Forgive me if I am wrong, but since it is an entire horizontal row, wouldn't something around U21/D5 be at fault? I could be entirely backwards but Ive looked at the wiring diagram till i am almost blinded with it. Thats probably the reason I'm not seeing the problem/solution. As far I can tell pulse is present.

  9. Recoton Model C-1004 is a verified C64 supply. 9VAC+5VCD only. I don't care what they listed, I'm going by other specs. I had one of these on one of my 64's a long time ago.

    And forget the tally. I let my curiosity get the better of me. If someone does decide to do a group buy and the price is good, Id be in for at least 5 myself.

  10. If my memory serves, these are later C64C supplies. I don't think there are 2 9vac supplies in them. I'll research it a bit more. Regardless, they would work beautifully with our midiboxen. I need to start a tally to get a pricing. I must state this though, I HAVE NO INTEREST IN HANDLING A GROUP BUY. They want a firm quantity before they set any pricing.

  11. I don't know if it would be of interest to anyone. But I found C64 supplies for ~5.00 USD. I think there is a minimum order with them though. It would probably have to be a group buy.

    EDIT: I bit the bullet and contacted the guy. Ill post what comes of it.

    The link is:

    http://www.73.com/specialist.php?specialist=ted&stock_no=MB392&cat_no=0040S&title=RECOTON%209VAC%2F9VA%20%26%209VAC%2F9VA%20%26%205VDC%2F8.5W%20SET%20TOP%20POWER%20SUPPLY&desc=Recoton%20C-1004,%20DV-512CM.%209VAC%2F9VA%20%26%209VAC%2F9VA%20%26%205VDC%2F8.5W.%20UL.%20Desktop%20type.%203-Prong%20grounded%20type%20AC%20plug%20on%206'%20c%61ble.%206'%20output%20c%61ble%20termin%61ted%20in%20din%20type%20plug.

    EDIT by SmashTV: Added to subject to clear up mains voltage confusion.

  12. Here is a PDF of my base parts list. It's incomplete as a whole project, meaning that some parts are unverified for size and quantity. Also, some things aren't on the list. Its up to you to verify and finish. All I ask is that if you get time to finish and verify before I do, post it.

    Good Luck

    edit:

    Missing in new list are regulators, filter caps, various hardware, etc. VERIFY IF YOU USE THIS!

    6582-upd.pdf

    6582-upd.pdf

  13. I was fortunate and got acceptable panels. However, just a heads up for others with these panels. I found on my set that the LED holes were a bit out of spec, but only on the matrix section. I thought at first my LEDs might have been a bit  ;D whacky  ;D, and tested as such. It was the holes. I would HIGHLY recommend testing the holes BEFORE you get set up. Otherwise you will find yourself with uneven LED's in the matrix. I found that with a small round metal file, things cleaned up nicely.

    Best of luck  :)

×
×
  • Create New...