glitched

Right. Always check the data sheet for your part, but that isn't always fool-proof. I had the cylindrical type with the four legs with opposing polarities (I assumed). Only one leg was marked as positive (+) and the data sheet said nothing of the other legs. Before soldering anything, I looked at the part on the CORE board for comparison and guessed that this part should be the same--that is, with the opposing polarities diagonally across from one another. I guessed right, but in order for the circuit to work, I had to "tuck" one of the ~ legs under so that the signal went to it first, then to the + side, etc... As I have just gotten a new camera, I can start making a mini-tutorial on the c64 optimized PSU.

Use shitty paint; the cheapest kind that Home Depot has should work. I painted my x0xb0x (aluminum) and NES (plastic--feels the same as the c64) flat black and have no issues. No cracks or anything. Spray a coat, wait a minute, spray another coat, wait 10 or 20 minutes, spray one more coat. Glossy spray paint may have different properties. Actually, now that I think about it, you should probably test it by painting the bottom or insides, first. I recall my mc-202 pots and sliders not taking the spraypaint well.

This should be an easy answer, but I haven't be able to find it: what screws would you use for the typical panel mount DIN connector? Example: http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=161-0005virtualkey11180000virtualkey161-0005 . I guess you'd need some nuts, too. Any ideas? Thanks. I appreciate it!

You guys really know your stuff! I was thinking about this, the inclusion of the 330nf cap...it's such a low value, how can it affect anything? It makes sense that a bigger cap would take a longer time to charge up and discharge, thus affecting lower frequencies ("slower" waveforms).

Yes, that's great info. Here's another great wiki link on electronics: http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Electronics. By the way, the first step is complete: +5.15VDC on the multimeter on the 5V side! On to the other side... UPDATE: It works! Amazing! So happy when I saw the 14.19VDC on the meter. I really didn't understand it until I visited a couple sites that put it into simple terms. Here's another one of those: http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Prac/vero_circ/vero.htm Highly recommended. Ok, next step!

That's so hardcore! Have you seen those binary wristwatches? Anyway, I chickened out and decided to just wire the conductors to the DIL header, directly. It took some time and a steady hand, but I think I got them all on there without a short (I hope). Tape did not work because the cables kept moving around. A clamp is a better idea. Next time!

Ok, so after reading some stuff on the internets, I think I've figured out the optimized PSU thing, at least conceptually. Can you help me confirm some things? (Remember, any information you pro's can give me will benefit future newbies because I'll be writing a detailed, step-by-step guide on the whole CORE+SID construction process.) Schematic: To me, the schematic is linear; I visualize it as four separate tracks: 1) +5v (pin 5) 2) GND (pin 2), 3) +9VAC (pin 6), 4) +9VAC (pin7). From left-to-right, the 5V "track" goes to a switch, the positive side of the 2200 16v capacitor, then to a 100nf cap, and finally out as 5VDC. The GND track goes to the negative side of the 2200 16v cap, then to the 100nf cap, and out on the other pin, which will be ground. On the other side, we have the 9VAC (pin 7) track, which goes to the squiggly (~) of the rectifier, out the positive side (+) to the positive side of the 2200 25v cap, then to the 330nf cap, into the input side of the 7809 regulator, and finally out as 14VDC*. [*The + side of the 2200 16v cap (from the 5v track) is connected to the 330nf cap.] The other 9VAC line (pin 6) goes to a switch, through the ~ side of the bridge rectifier, out the negative side (-), to the negative side of the 2200 25v cap, then to the 330nf cap, and the GND pin of the regulator. The 14v goes to J1 on the SID and the 5V (and GND) goes to J2 on the CORE (the 7805 regulator on the CORE is not stuffed). Conceptually, is that it? Physically, I just mount the components and connect them, as above, as "tracks" I guess. A 5v side and a 14v side. By the way, I've been using this site as a guide: http://www.danielprice.org.uk/synth-diy/sid_2.htm If I'm right about all this, it's a breakthrough because I had never even looked at a schematic, picked up a multimeter, or scorched myself with a soldering iron before this project. Thanks. -d

Ok, I think I'll try it this way, but use tape to hold the ends of the conductors. But how about the other part of my question? Pin1 is on the bottom-left side of the LCD, but on the connector, the bottom-left pin is always 2 (the first one in the "back" row). So, I'd have to swap the positions on the cable: 1 becomes 2, 3 becomes 4, etc.? (Dang, I wish my lcd had a single row of conductors.)

I was wondering if someone could help me through this. I'm attempting to wire the LCD, so I have a 16P cable attached to an IDC connector. Obviously, the pinouts are not 1:1 to SmashTV's CORE board. Here's the data sheet: http://www.microtipsusa.com/product_pdfs/Character/20x2/20200B%20(White%20LED)/MTC-S20200BMNHSGW.pdf Ok, so I'd like to make my life as easy as possible, so I soldered a 16p DIL (male) header to the back of the LCD (the long ends are poking out the back side. The question is this: I'd like to put an IDC header on the other end of the cable I've already made, but I have to re-arrange the cables in order to match the pinouts on the CORE board. How do you do this? Do you just take each conductor, one by one, stick it through the connector, hope they stay in place, and finally clamp it down? Also, about the pinouts of the LCD: when the LCD is face-down, obviously, the pinouts are reversed. So starting from bottom-left-to-right, going up, they'll be 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, etc...but on the flip side, they'll be 2, 1, 4, 3, 6, 5, etc... Does this mean that the pins on the connector should be swapped, too? In other words, the arrow on the IDC connector signifies pin1, but when the LCD is face down, the arrow will really mean pin2, right? I'm probably thinking too hard about this.

I got my parts from SmashTV today! So, it begins... Oh, right...still need the parts from Mouser. Can't do jack without cables! On another note, the package looks very professional and everything's smaller than I expected!

Yes, this is the crux of the issue and this is why a step-by-step guide is necessary. Or maybe it doesn't even have to be step-by-step. I like the ideas MRE has posited: first, some prerequisites, like soldering techniques, what tools to use, etc. This section could be minimal because the information is generic and is well documented. The second section would be dedicated to planning and a parts list, as MRE has suggested. Of course, if this is a SmashTV-focused guide, most of the work is already done, at least on the main boards. I'll bet most newbies have trouble with the extras: cables, connectors, and options for the control surface. Yes, the third section would be the build guide: one sub-section for each module. The last section would have to do with the control surface, but writing a guide for this would be difficult because of the virtually limitless possibilities. Ok! I'll let you know I get my stuff!

Yes, that's what I, and countless newbies, have come up against. The Midibox is definitely not a "level 1" beginner's project. On a scale of 1-5, it's probably a three. The x0x is maybe a one or two. "Just follow the schematic" doesn't really help most beginners. Although the minimal guides on the main site are fine for the more experienced, some may need more help with things that are taken for granted. Yes, most of the information is in the forum or wiki, but it's not all at one's fingertips. In fact, I like Wilba's little construction guide: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=wilba_mb_6582_base_pcb_construction_guide&s=psu . If something like that was done for a CORE/SID/DINX control surface A combination (with more pictures), it would save a lot of people a lot of effort--including the pro's who have to answer newbie questions over and over. So, after I get all my parts from SmashTV and mouser, I think I may attempt this. Then, we put it in the wiki and sticky it on the forum, and everyone will be totally satisfied and never ask a beginner question again ;) -d

It should be said that this is not a step-by-step DIY project kit, like the x0xb0x. They take you through the build process one section at a time. I wonder if it's simply because no one has attempted to document a step-by-step build. I mean, a real step-by-step build: solder this piece here, solder this piece there, connect these pins on this module to those pins on that, this is how you supply power to the CORE and SID... I'm expecting my kits this week; maybe I'll take on this monumental task. I'm a beginner, so it would be a fresh perspective. -d

I didn't want to open another thread, so I'll just use this one since it's along the same lines. Is it ridiculous for one to think that he could use an older 230 watt computer power supply to power his CORE and SID modules? The power supply gives +12V and +5V, which is nearly perfect. Overkill? I'm just thinking of alternatives to using wall warts or the C64 PSU.

Thanks, NorthernlightX and others. You've been a great help.

I'm sorry, I just need to re-focus this thread for one last bit of clarification. Are the following statements true? 1) I can use, say, a 12V 1A transformer to power both the CORE and SID boards along with a 2X20 LCD. 2) I can use a DC power jack with that wall wart and wire the pins directly to J1 on the CORE board. 3) Using Smash TV's boards, I will connect J10 from the CORE board to J2 on the SID board. 3a) This will be the only connection I will need to make from the CORE board to the SID board in order to power and control the SID board. (Perhaps I am confusing +5V with the term "power supply".) Thanks for your help, thus far. -d

Thanks once again. I will see if I can get the C64 PSU from the same guy who gave me the SID. In the meantime, I'll be purchasing a couple heatsinks for the regulators and see how that works out. I'll be back to report! -d

Thanks for your responses. Things are making sense. Northernlightx: I read some of your previous postings. Is this the thread you were referencing? If so, that's waaaay out of my league. I really want to make this as minimal as possible. And I'm sorry, but I'm not sure if I got a clear answer to my primary question: can I power everything from one transformer, letting the modules' regulators do all the work? Does connection from J10 on the CORE give power to the SID?

Ah, very good. I'm starting to understand now. Ok, so 12v may be overkill...but I want to use the single transformer. You're saying that 12v is more than enough, but to save the regulator from getting too hot, you recommend a separate 5v supply, yes? Also, this panel mount part should work, do you agree? panel mount dc plug. [EDIT] Strike that. This has a split tip. If you find a panel mount 2.1 or 2.5 DC jack, let me know. Ok, I understand that I'll have to make some cables using the appropriate cables and IDC connectors. If I want to use the connectors on a common LCD with a single row of 16 pins, do I mate them with SIL female or male headers? Am I right in thinking that, if I'm using the IDC connectors, I'll need male SIL headers on the LCD part. Is this a good idea or does using headers/connectors create problems when mounting the LCD (due to the length added by the connectors)? By the way, a 2X20 LCD looks like a good idea to me. I want to make this as painless as possible. Thanks. -d

First of all, let me say that after reading this board for the past few weeks, you are all very patient people for putting up with constant noobness. Although Electronics isn't exactly quantum mechanics, it can be daunting for a beginner because, not only do you have to use your brain, but you also have to have the manual dexterity to wield a soldering iron and manipulate small parts! Anyway, some stats: Name: doesn't matter Electronics experience: very little. I have modified my MC-202 to death and put a couple mods on my x0xb0x (not made by me) Project: midibox SID (8580) Other Details: 1X CORE kit, 1X DIN kit, 1X SID kit, all purchased from SmashTV (my order is "in progress"--thanks!). No original C64 PSU. Ok, so here's the story: I have been looking at c0nsumer's site for the last few days and noticed that he used a 12V, 1A wall transformer and mated it with a PCB mount power jack. Now, here are the questions: 1) For the "non-optimized" PSU plans, is 12V enough to power a CORE, SID, DIN, and LCD (easier to say "control surface A" I guess)? He seems to be powering six modules, so I guess that's a yes. 1a) If I'm not using a C64 PSU, I don't have to make a separate circuit to make this thing work, right? In other words, assuming everything's done correctly, I should be able to just solder, check voltages etc., and plug in the power. 1b) The CORE PCB from Smash TV uses those SIL headers for J1. I would like to do the PCB mount thing, but I don't think the pins are compatible. Any suggestions? How do you mount your power jack? I guess you have to mount it on a protoboard or something, along with a switch. 2) I plan on getting a standard 2X16 LCD. Ribbon cables: are there any that have been pre-made that I can just plug into the CORE board and LCD? I'm guessing this is a "no" because of the possible non-standard pin orders on some LCDs. 2a) I haven't looked yet, but I'm guessing there are pre-made 2x8 IDE-type ribbon cables, to interface from J10 on the CORE to J10 on SID, yes? Uh...I think that's it for now...more when I actually get the stuff and start building. Thanks, in advance! -d glitched.org