sensorium
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Posts posted by sensorium
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I'm in the USA. Ohio.
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About 3 years ago, I was in a car accident after completing 90% of my MB-6582 build. The carpel tunnel like pain I'm living with after a shattered wrist left me incapable of doing tedious solder work. With Wilba's permission, I paid a member here to finish the job.
Unfortunately, it appears the builder was a bit of a novice. Several LEDs don't light. The sustain knob doesn't change any values. When turning the filter knob, the number readings turn into random letters. But most importantly, I only seem to be getting any audio out of the SID1 output. I dealt with it for years, because I didn't have the heart to complain since it was such a kind gesture, but lately I've been itching to get this working properly.
I'm still unable to do tedious work since I have (likely permanent) carpal tunnel like pain. Is anyone willing to help me out? I don't imagine it would take much time. I have spare LEDs to match if the dead ones are truly bad. I'm sure there have since been OS updates/but fixes as well. Let me know if anyone is willing to help. I will obviously pay for the bench time!
Thanks in advance!
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I'd be willing to help you out, I'm just outside Chicago.
Not to insult, but have you completed a MB-6582? What is your experience level? PM me with your email address. Thanks!
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I wouldn't mind helping you out. But it wouldn't be that effective if i live on the other side of the globe. So what nILS said :ahappy:
We posted at the same time. See above.
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Sorry to hear about your injury... It would certainly help if you shared your location, so we can pick the best local boxer for you ;)
Of course. I'm in the Columbus, Ohio area but I have no issues with mailing it if need be. Thanks!
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I recently (finally) began assembling my MB-6582. I got it about 90%+ complete, then had to stop due to a wrist injury in an auto accident. Turns out I have a severely torn tendon which is very painful and they have immobilized my wrist/hand. IF they decide surgery is the best option, it would take up to 12 months to completely heal. The tedious soldering work has proven to be very difficult for me. The project is SO close to being finished, and I really wanted to use it on a project this summer. I am reaching to the forum in hopes to find someone who would be willing to finish my assembly (I will pay for bench time of course). I thought about finding someone local, but I'd prefer to have an experienced midiboxer do it. If you are willing to do this huge favor for me, I'd be happy to send you some pics of my progress, but here's where it is right now:
I'd say its 90%+ complete. All it really needs is troubleshooting with the MIDI, LCD wired up, encoders soldered, ribbon-wire connections on the boards. Once the midi is working and assuming everything else works ok, just pop in the SID chips and that PCB is finished. All that is left on the control PCB is wiring up the LCD, and then the 2 PCBs need to be connected via ribbon wire or individual wiring.
Thanks for your help on this!
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I've looked everywhere and I've had no luck. Performance PC's has orange in the 20mm size, but I want to avoid that due to noise issues. I have amber diffuse LED's and an amber Crystalfonz LCD for the control surface and I would like a fan to match. Can anyone help?
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do you know what kind of paint he used? or what would be best to use in your opinion?
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Thanks all. I went with the Amber crystalfonz LCD and Diffuse Amber LEDs. I hope it will look nice! Now I have to find a way to make my Waldorf style knobs to match the scheme. I have grey, red, and white. Maybe I'll just black them out? Ot try to do a clean job with some amber testor model paint?
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hmmm. Any other recommendations for my color scheme?
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Will something like this work?
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/LED-12W/12V-WHITE-DIFFUSED-LED-5MM-T1-3/4-/1.html
(edit. oops. those are 5mm. Still looking)
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If you use square ones, be aware of the fact that you'll need one little square hole for every LED.
This is going to be expensive or veery hard work.
Actually it is still round from the top view. It's just flat instead of being rounded across the top. You can see the side/top view of it here: http://www.superbrightleds.com/specs/W15120_specs.htm
How will that look?
And this is the only black/white LCD I can find (but not negative).
http://www.crystalfontz.com/product/CFAH2004ATFHJT.html
How will this look with the white LED's? And can you get the LED's and LCD to be the same "shade" of white?
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I have red and white knobs to try out...
And which ones of these would be considered "dim" whites? Also, if you click on the 1st option, this LED has a square top instead of rounded. Do you think this would look nice?
http://www.superbrightleds.com/leds.htm
Also, where can I find a compatible white NEGATIVE LCD? I'm only finding positives.
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I ordered a red anodized aluminum panel from FPE. It is red (obviously) with white text and black lines. I'm looking for recommendations or LED and LCD colors that will complement this scheme. I thought of all red, but that might be red overkill. What else would look nice with this panel in your opinion? Thanks in advance.
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Ok, so it seems I can leave the front panels untouched. As for the rear panel, how wide should the outer-edge bezel be to fit perfectly into the channel? Since the bezel would be on the artwork side, I'd like to get as close as possible to avoid a silver border.
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Hello,
I am working with Joe at FPE to design new panel layouts so that we can use their anodized aluminum colors (currently only available in 2mm) to fit in the PT-10 case.
The rear panel design will have a 4mm wide .5mm deep bezel around all 4 corners so that it will slide into the channel on the back of the PT-10 case
The front panel will have a 15mm wide and .5mm deep bezel around all 4 corners to clear the lip/corner brackets on the PT-10
My questions are:
Will simply machining this edge out allow the tactile switches to protrude 1.5mm as they should? Or will other components interfere with this? If there is other interference, what other holes would need to be machined out .5mm so that this 2mm thick panel will lay as flush to the components as a 1.5 does?
After this design is completed, I will share the FPD files with everyone so that we have more options available through FPE in their anodized panel colors. Thanks!
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Do they do the screening also? If not, who is doing the screening for you? I'm on a waiting list with Doug, but I'm looking to do this sooner rather than later. I may explore this option. Has FPE saved the template? If not, where do I find it on this site? Thanks.
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It's been a couple months since any updates. I have everything but panels and I'd like to know if I need to explore some other routes. Does anyone know the status?
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Yes, I've searched the site, I just can find what I'm looking for. Does anyone have large-ish, hi-res, straight on photos of completed (all parts mounted) main and CS PCB's from the MB-6582? I'm new at schematics and would like to use this to teach myself how to read them (and to make sure I'm putting my parts on correctly) Is anything like this posted anywhere?
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I'm just making sure I have everything to start building an MB-6582 ASAP.
I currently have:
1 baseboard PCB
1 CS PCB
1 Baseboard parts kit from SmashTV
Waldorf style knobs
C64 power supply
I know I also need LED's (I can find those)
A compatible LCD screen (which one is recommended these days?)
CS PCB parts kit (are these even available? If not, will they be?)
Am I missing anything else? Thanks for taking the time to help me out.
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I haven't been around here much, so I'm just checking to make sure I didn't miss anything about the parts kits. I've been waiting for the "ready" e-mail for about 1 year, so I have to ask. Is this still going to happen? Or has it been called off and I missed something during my hiatus?
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Will any of these work with the MB-6582?
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Am I to late? I can't edit the wiki.... Anyway, I would like 2 sets...
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Actually it's more of a priority based queue, where priority is inversely proportional to the amount of nagging.
That can't be true. I was fairly early in this thread and I haven't even spoke a word in months....DAMN. Did I just move down a notch? ;)
Looking for help with my MB-6582 build
in MIDIbox SID
Posted · Edited by sensorium
About 10 years ago, I was in a car accident after completing 90% of my MB-6582 build. The carpel tunnel like pain I'm living with after a shattered wrist left me incapable of doing tedious solder work. With Wilba's permission, I paid a member here to finish the job.
Unfortunately, it was obvious that the builder was a bit of a novice. Several LEDs don't light. The sustain knob doesn't change any values. When turning the filter knob, the number readings turn into random letters. But most importantly, I only seem to be getting any audio out of the SID1 output. I dealt with it for years, because I didn't have the heart to complain since it was such a kind gesture, but lately I've been itching to get this working properly. I reached out for help many years ago, but had no luck I’ve decided to try again as I got a new itch to get this thing working properly :)
Is anyone willing to help me out? I don't imagine it would take much time. I have spare LEDs to match if the dead ones are truly bad. I'm sure there have since been OS updates/but fixes as well. Let me know if anyone is willing to help. I will obviously pay for the bench time!
I am in the USA, but will ship to anyone willing to assist.
*I have some spare SID chips i could throw in as part of the payment if anyone is interested.
Thanks in advance!