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It's looking pretty good!!! and yes, what are those nice illuminated buttons? ;D

Thanks TK, fossi, Wilba! One bad thing about this design in particular: as I used part of the C64 keyboard to hold the keys there is not much I can do to move the keys around, which leaves less space for the rest of the components and makes hard to align the encoders to the keys, would be to tight to move them easily... but hey, I like the keys hehe. this can be implemented on the BANK button too, right? Now I know where to look for... next thing is to find out what to look for ;D. and it looks like fossi is exploring that code with great success... good for me:) seems to be a good compromise... i'll think about it some more to see if it's worth to have the 2 extra encoders or is best to go with just five encoders and more space between each encoder. ahh, nice one! will work some more on the layout with all the ideas.

hi, so I came up with this layout for a mbSid stereo(V2 app) trying to get in there the controls I think I would use on a live situation. The plan so far: Minimal CS with original C64 keys - working already - Up/down switches for bank and ensemble patch change Play/Stop arp switch plus tempo led Left and Right SID channel switches 4 switches with "selected" led status to change on the fly the functions for a row of 7 encoders 1 switch to control the first five items on LCD screen (fossi's suggestion) All input is welcome: am I missing something crucial?(besides the matrix and a lot of led visual feedback) what would you add on the remaining available space?(a Pactec PT10 is already used so no space to grow) Is this layout feasible in terms of coding? Any suggestions, tips, code samples? <- I'll appreciate any of this as I'm not even close to scratch the code surface, a lot of learning ahead for me. thanks!

In the hope that this don't come to you Gene, as something offensive: 1. You are a musician willing to spend cash on a sequencer or whatever equipment you need to do your music. Good, everyone here does that form time to time :) 2. You found the mbSEQ to be the hardware you want. Good again, everybody here wants at least one of the midiBox projects. 3. TK alone sets the rules to play as he is the creator of the midiBox firmware and apps, not you , not me, not anybody else. This may be good or bad for you depending on your willingness to play by TK rules. 4. You don't want to or can't do what it takes to play by TK rules. You have your reasons for this, I will not argue with that, but even then you have two choices: a. Change your mind and start learning all that you'll need to have the mbSEQ built and working. need support?, this forum is the place to ask questions, I already know at least 5 guys willing to help with my own questions. b.Go spend your money on something already available from an established brand and get all the support you are entitled for directly from the company that made the purchased item. If you ask me, to learn new things is a very small fee to pay for the goods you get here. It's hard, or not for everyone? probably, but everyone around here went thru the same process to have any of the midiBox projects and there is nothing forbidding you to follow the same path. btw. depending on what you want from the sequencer, a korg electribe ES1 or SX1 can give you even more than the mbSEQ for less money and time, is not like you don't have any more options. ;)

If you are building your own PSU its fine, I used a DB105 on my psu. But as Nebula said, the pinout and footprint is different so you can't use it as a drop in on the mbSid pcbs

nice work there cimo!!! count me in for a kit ;D

According to the older midiboxers around here, the 6581 is the noisier chip, not sure if something changes from one rev to another, then there is the 8580 with less noise and the 6582, same specs s the 8580. I have 2 6581, both of them noisy but easy to control with an external noise gate/compressor.

welcome FloydianNM! it really is your choice where to go from there, as you will find pointed all over the forum you need to do some reading first to get your feet wet, here on the forum, on the wiki, and on your particular case here: http://www.ucapps.de/midibox_sid_walkthrough.html and there is no pdf building manual available per se as this depends on the components you select to add to your project. short rundown for you: get the correct pic for your need ensemble all the modules load MIOS app load specific app test all, if everything is fine: select a Control Surface or plan you own version build the CS do some more tests and maybe add/debug code build or buy an enclosure for everything have fun making some noise/music ;)

no multi-platform plugin or app to edit patches? :( less attractive. Instead of seeing people as pissed off, you can see that we are being pampered by TK, and midiBox rises the bar really high for any DIY effort out there ;)

just leave the holes nice and smooth to the tact to avoid any tubing damage, once the jack is mounted tightly it won't go anywhere ;)

almost like your first time, don't? ;D...well it is your first time with the Core hehhee

one of this led matrix would make the live Sid even prettier

Safe way would be to buy plastic enclosed connectors, you may want to change from this: to this and otherwise some ideas: heat shrink tubing into the jack bushing with a couple of plastic washers on both sides? alternatives to the heat shrink: teflon tape <- used this along with the plastic washers to mod my gt3 for 2 expression pedals. you could try hot glue too, just cover the metal parts and cut out as needed to make it fit again. 8)

r u sure it won't bite me? ;D I'll try GPUTILS both on Mac and Pc then;)

TK: but you still can use MPASM with the updated sources? I have a crappy Pc on a corner just for this kind of things, easier than installing the other stuff on Mac ;D

hehehe, you will be amazed at how often you will be feeling exactly that on any design related work, where for the most part you don't have time enough nor all the resources to do things as you imagined. you're right Kartoshka, shall I add: for every project ;D now, back on topic: for those rushing to get the parts to build the mb6582: there is a parts list and also a list of online stores to place an order on the wiki. for those without pcbs: patience, patience and more patience... smashTv will tell when pcbs are ready. You don't have patience? go buy another thing to build while waiting ;) nothing too complicated, right?

hhehe, albeit a lot late than I should, already asked about that to wilba ;D it looks like it was the only way to make all fit... I say it was just a matter of moving the env section to the left and the filter section to the right, a better handling this way but it brakes the visual flow of the signal as it goes thru the controls ->inherited from the old analog synths, look your old and full of knobs gear :P Fossi: are the buttons going to be custom made with the illuminated ring and all or are you going to use something already available?

please correct me if I'm wrong but to create a "graphic environment" you don't even need the product to exist, let alone have a working example available... it's all about your abilities to convey an idea. I can't imagine any design student buying a ferrari just because he/she will be creating a new graphic environment for it... it would be a success with the opposite sex though ;D btw, my comment was not aimed at anyone in particular, I just don't like the idea of kids seeing a DIY kit of any kind as a shortcut to a good grade... and most of all I hate the idea of teachers allowing the kids to get away with it. DB: PHDs in exchange of a working Velleman kit? back in the day I had to code in Basic, starting from zero, a searchable database for a big magazine collection just to get a tiny little boy scout insignia... how things change.

way off topic: I still wonder how soldering components on a pre made pcb (by someone else) can qualify as a school project and get you a good grade? I guess it would work if the class is "electronic components soldering 1", but that's about it. On the other side, I can see anyone getting a good grade by programming a new killer app for any of the midiBox projects no offense intended here: is the world getting dumber? ;D

I am left handed :), and it would make more sense to me if the menu controls and LCD where on the right side, those are the ones you won't use a lot playing live... also, fine knob tweaks are done better with your natural hand(or whatever is called hehe) so that would place the filter and LFO knobs on the left side for a lefty. Thinking about this: If you are playing a bass line you have the right hand free, if playing a lead the left hand is free, so ideally the most used controls should be on the center so you can use whatever hand you have free to tweak the knobs and press the buttons... ergonomics they call it. btw. you should not be righty, you know!? righties are baaaad *whack* and just to add some wood to the bonfire menu controls on the left: all the korg's electribes clavia nord lead moog phatty yamaha AN200 TK mbSID!

used to have a 1604 but currently I have a 1402 vlz, easier to carry around... both are very reliable and sturdy, just one thing: the dust can do damage to the pots over the years, get a dust cover with it.

I have 16 mono channels already used on the studio and yet I need some more ;D my advice: go for the biggest mixer you can afford now, will come handy when your setup grows. 8)

start sending the kits now!!! :o so you asked for ideas, comments, etc.: nice to see a design with the "banstick" up/down buttons concept (you may want to fix the typo if it is a typo) finally someone else likes to actually play besides building and tweaking synths ;D ;D ;D move the octave/transpose up/down buttons to the pitch bend and modulation wheel panel, easier to find in the middle of a frantic lead solo 8) somehow the envelope buttons location feels weird as they are not related visually to anything else around... but that may be just me :P the lines feel too thick against the rest of the design, also you could round all the text box corners to achieve a smoother look, like a crossbreed between this, this and this otherwise, excellent design you got there! ;)

ganchan: those cables work fine the other way around - mono signal to stereo signal but not stereo signal to mono signal as you would be introducing feedback(I guess the resistors on bugfight instructions take care of it) I don't, but I have a bunch of those(neutrik NYS216) and using stereo won't do any damage, plus I have another switch to use ;D right, those where the missing words hehe so that's why all the mixer schematics I found have amps included, right?, to compensate for the attenuation. hey bugfight, you are becoming my midiBox guru, thanks!