Snoozr
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Posts posted by Snoozr
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Don't forget we have a patch thread for user patches - hint :thumbsup:
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The build guide recommends a regulated PSU that is not a switchmode type. Is there any difference between a switchmode PSU and a switching PSU? I'm looking at this PSU. Thanks.
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PS-961/9-VDC-600MA-REGULATED-POWER-SUPPLY/1.html
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Arrived in los Estados Unidos! Muy bien!
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Stay tuned for some otherworldly FM insanity!
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Alright, just had to get that off my chest :frantics:
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Ok thanks. I looked around in some of the OS .inc files but that was about as far as I got. I'll give it another go at some point.
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Sure. Most music for the past couple hundred years uses equal temperament for some very good physical reasons. But for electronic music where there are no physical strings etc., just temperament/intonation can be used. It makes for more stable chords that sound nicer in some places. What happens is that certain parts of a chord (usually the third and fifth) would be micro-tuned.
More info here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Just_intonation
and this audio example should make it more concrete
Sounds really great on guitars by the way...
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I've read through the manual a number of times but perhaps I've missed it. Is there any (relatively straightforward) way to get just intonated chords on the MB-SID family synths? I have a lot of fun with the harsh SID sounds but sometimes you want something sweet-sounding. Searched for "just chords" and "just intonation" but came up empty...
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Here's another tip. There is this stuff called Chip Quik. It is like solder-however, the melting point is much lower. So you "solder" this stuff onto your joints. Then heat up all joints simultaneously by lying your iron somewhat sideways. Because the Chip Quik stays molten longer, you have more time to melt all the joints. Highly recommended for difficult desoldering jobs. I have the pumps and the braids, and the Chip Quik is way better for tough jobs.
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It's nice but it's not going to be a massive difference. The extra rows show you things like a "thermometer bar" when you are changing patch values or show you what commands are above you in the hierarchy.
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Yes, it's a lot of fun and will get more so. :thumbsup:
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Title says it all. The sammichSID provides all parts except drums.
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I was under the impression that it is not easily possible to mix the 6581 and the 8580/6582 in the Sammich. There are a number of jumpers which set the overall power to 9V or 12V.
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Snoozr: Where is the LCD window?
It's around here somewhere. Thanks for reminding me. I completely forgot about it... Paint fumes I suppose :frantics:
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LOL. Maybe I should do my nails like that.
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Thought some of you might enjoy my new iridescent sammichSID:
It sounds as good as it looks. There are two rich sounding 6581s inside. Big thanks to Wilba, Nils and TK!
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I have a pretty basic level of experience myself, although I have learned quite a lot in my 2-3 years here. I would suggest you go buy and complete the Music From Outer Space kit called the Weird Sound Generator. This is an easy first project, plus it will give you a musical instrument. It will also get you better acquainted with circuit diagrams (which you will need to know to design/build a mixer), different parts (which you will need again), and how audio "flows" around a functioning device.
That said, I think this is a friendly community but you do not realize the good advice you have already been given. The fact that everyone is repeatedly trying to respond to you is because of their good intentions, but you do not see that.
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If your LCD is still not working, consider the possibility that you cooked it by wiring it up the wrong way. I have cooked multiple LCDs from wiring errors. They seem to be very sensitive. I lost one on the 6582 from wiring and spent a lot of time trying to "troubleshoot" the LCD when there was nothing that could have been done.
I recently had a Sammich LCD die after about, oh, a few hours use. There is no chance of a wiring error with the Sammich due to Wilba's cool design but the LCD died anyway. This could have been from static electricity as it is rather cold around here at the moment.
The only way to really check these sorts of things is to have a known good LCD that is wired up correctly, and then temporarily transplanting it on to the new unit to see if it works there. I happen to have a 3rd Midibox with a working LCD (but with some horrible noise somewhere that I could not figure out and hence the box was abandoned). This one is my test LCD. It got me through the two troubleshoots above.
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If it's any consolation, I tried contacting them by email a few months ago and they never replied. Guess they are pretty busy.
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Rich Chrd Pad.zipThe filters on the 6581s that I have don't seem to work well so there is more I would like to do with this. But not bad on its own - feel free to put some envelope filter stuff on top of it. Try hitting notes on the black keys.
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Update: sammichSID is all up and running. This guy's a 6581 to go with my MB-6582. Thanks gang - bring on the sammichFM!!!
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OK-thanks.
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Also when I said "as before" in the above post, I mean 6.7V (from the sentence before).
WTB: MB6582 Window
in Fleamarket
Posted
Very late to the party but keep me posted if there are overstocks. I'm interested in 1.