Jump to content

rbv2

Members
  • Posts

    105
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Posts posted by rbv2

  1. http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/518322/STECKERNETZGERAeT-PA-1000S-LED

    This is the only available non-switchmode psu that I know. As you probably know, these old-school psus are/will be forbidden in Germany and Europe. I have to add tho, that mine only delivers 11.51V.

    thanks guys!

    hey param1,

    that voltcraft psu is also part of my collection. are you happy with it? for me its still to much noise.. or lets say more than the normal noise you get from other synths!

    rbv2

  2. hi all,

    can anybody give me a link where to order the perfect psu for my little sammichSID please? its not that i'm to lazy to search

    myself but it seems that i'm not able to find one that doesnt produce noise or hum.

    in the meantime i bought 4 different psu and none of them works adequate..

    thanks

    rbv2

  3. thank you all!

    maybe resoldering was not without success! bevor i did that i got

    hum/flickering even with brightness pot set to minimum. i still get a little flickering

    sometimes (caused by the psu) but the backlight is not totally off anymore! also the reboot seems to be gone!

    :)

    will get me an new psu after vacation!

  4. i removed one sid, now i get no sound from the audio out.. i can set the brightness pot whereever i want, no hum no flickering! (flickering is very rare at at all)

    with both sids installed i get hum when the brightness pot is shortly bevor maximun.

    but i cant reproduce the reboot by setting the brightness to maximum anymore..

    i also have noticed a crackle noise when switching the presets without playing any sound. (with all sids installed)

    just to let you know:

    tomorrow im on vacation for one week so i have no chance to answer!

    thanks for your help so far!!

    i come back to you!

  5. I think you have a bad solder joint somewhere... probably the JBL header, or the brightness pot. That might explain the flickering, maybe the hum also.

    It could be two separate issues, or combined... it sounds like when the backlight is powered by the input voltage (JBL=12V), then the extra current causes the voltage regulators not to be very stable.

    Try one more thing: Insert shunts into JBP and power with regulated 12V (as before) but make sure it is tip positive. Do voltage tests on points labelled "12V"... these should now be EXACTLY 12V since shunts in JBP will bypass the bridge rectifier. This means there will be more voltage going into the voltage regulators and less likely that current load changes will cause voltage drops. Check if there is now any hum or flickering when adjusting the brightness.

    thanks!

    ok. i soldered the trimpots and jbl header again, without success..

    inserted two shunts into jbp .. the voltage on points labelled 12v are not exactly 12v! 11.40v instead. ( when i check the voltage of the psu directly on the plug its 11.50v)

    when adjusting the brightness pot the hum still is getting louder! the backlight is mostly on for now but flickering still appears sometimes.

    :sad:

  6. I can't be sure, but reading about the PA-500S and the other models from Voltcraft, which all have different weights depending on max current, it's likely this is a transformer based power supply. They also appear to come in unregulated versions with the same weight, which also suggests it isn't switchmode.

    Therefore, it should be OK.

    The rebooting is expected if you turn the brightness up too much, as this PSU only delivers 500mA max. at 12V. In this respect, it would have been better to get the PA-1000S, and not have the current issue - it would always deliver regulated 12V up to 1000mA load, even at max backlight brightness.

    Set the brightness pot to half-way (12 o'clock).

    Is the backlight working at all now, or always off?

    If you remove the shunt in JBL, do you still hear the audio hum?

    If you temporarily set JBL to "5V", do you still hear the audio hum? (Don't leave it set to "5V", this is too much current for the voltage regulators/heatsinks).

    the backlight is working at the moment.. no flickering!

    when i remove the shunt in jbl the hum is gone.. when insert the shunt to 5v also no hum.

    alsways the display is not working there also is no hum.. just a silent crackle..

    thanks

    rbv2

  7. I'm pretty sure man. The ones Wilba linked all look like they could fit a transformer inside. Your one doesn't. Seriously, pick it up, if it feels like nothing much more than a piece of plastic it's almost certainly a switching supply. A linear (transformer-based) supply will have some weight to it.

    Another clue is multi-voltage. Switching supplies can often use a wide input voltage (100-240 VAC) whereas linear usually will need a jumper/switch changed if this is even possible.

    One more clue is price. Transformers are usually more expensive than S/PSUs. I'm sure it's worth it for your little Sammich.

    :)

    thank you..

    just to be on the safe side :)

    here are the specs of the psu in detail:

    Type Linear

    Type regulated

    1.5 - 12 V/DC

    input voltage 230 VAC +- 10%

    (B x H x T) 61 x 95 x 92 mm

    Typ PA-500S LED

    weight 370 g (its near the same wheigt as the first psu in the link wilba posted (without connectors and packing)

    when i pick it up it feel like a handy brick :)

    and its double the price then the recommended psu's.

    so what do you think?

    ps: mainly the backlight is off .. no flickering anymore.. the rest of the box is working without any problems. the reboot only occurs when the backlight is on and i turn up the brightness pot.

    i also can hear a hum at the audio out which becomes louder when i turn up the backlight pot..

    thanks

    rbv2

  8. No, that still looks like a switchmode one to me. You can tell because a transformer-based design will be heavy and square :ahappy: unless they use a toroid, in which case it will be heavy, flat and round. Keep searching would be my advice. Hopefully you can return some of these!

    are you shure with that? to me it looks exactly like one of these psu

    recommended by wilba ?

  9. hey,

    thank you for the numerous replies!

    i bought the following psu from conrad electronics http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/518313/

    500 mA

    12 V/DC

    regulated

    (cant read anything about switchmode or schaltnetztei in the manual so i would say its no switchmode psu)

    i connected it but the display still behaves the same way.. the flickering is totally random.. now mostly off :(

    is there anything else i can check?

    thanks

    rbv2

  10. hi all,

    finished my sammichSID some hours ago and it was more easy than expected.. thanks wilba!

    but i have a problem with my backlight lcd. during upload of the hex file the lcd started flickering with each line of the code.(like the the code is triggering the backlight)

    upload was succesfull anyways. after uploading the display is flickering randomly.. when i turn up the backlight pot. the sammichSID even reboot sometimes.

    the measurementns where correct!

    the psu is 12v dc 600ma http://www.reichelt.de/?ACTION=3;ARTICLE=87338;PROVID=2402

    is this caused by a bad soldering?

    please help me!

    thanks in advance

    rbv2

  11. hi all

    i also received a bankstick PCB from Mike.

    and of course i have a question.

    my banksticks are all soldered in like shown here: (with sockets  ;) )

    http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=9981.0;attach=1636

    my question is regarding the pins:

    is the position of the pins the same like here?:

    http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_bankstick.html

    and is it still necessary to add the jumper-wire.

    i watched the copper traces for about a hour to find out about the pinning but  ???

    is it possible to find out the pinning by using a multimeter?

    thank you all

    btw. i also received my displays last week...switched on...aaaand

    its alive and says hello (READY)    ;D  feels good

  12. danke für die erklärung!! das mit der kabelei versteh ich sehr gut (auch hier hat sich einiges an hw angesammelt..und es will nicht aufhören :)

    dachte anfänglich das die id etwas damit zu tun hat ob ich 2 midi ins nutzen will..

    einen 2ten sequencer zu bauen...hab ich auch schon dran gedacht..der muss dann super-kompakt sein zum rumschleppen.. warum nicht gleich drei (aahh grössenwahn ;D ) einen im studio, einen bei der freundin, und einen für live (wenn ich mal gross bin)

    DANKE!!

  13. hey dj3nk

    also ist es ok wenn ich die id auf 0000 0000 0000 0000 lasse und die IIC midi module per jumper adressiere?

    mein pic war schon mit mios programmiert deshalb konnte ich lange auf den reply warten (kommt ja dann nur einmal  ;) )

    die displays sind auf dem weg zu mir...leider noch nicht da..

    danke und grüsse

    rbv2

  14. nun habe ich schon wieder eine frage. (bissl OT)

    ist es immernoch notwendig die IDheader von 0000 0000 0000 0000

    auf 0000.....10 zu ändern wenn ich beabsichtige 4 2cmidi module zu verwenden. oder ist die adressierung mit jumpern ausreichend.

    in der doku steht man solle dies bei verwendung von nur einem 2cmidi modul tun.

    DANKE!

×
×
  • Create New...