orange_hand

Hi Peter, no, the short is clearly on the CS PCB. The network resistors are correctly oriented. I run 2 8580er SID's, the chips are in the right socket with the correct orientation. I don't think that there are voltage drops... First I have to find the short on the CS PCB causing the 3 LED's lighting up together. Is there a documentation which pad (JD1 to JD8) servers which purpose ? It is difficult to follow the tracks on the boards as they use both sides. Cheers orange

Hi, I have checked issue c), the 3 LED's that always light up at the same time. I have measured a short on the CS PCB on pin 4 to 6 of JD8. I wonder how this is possible, especially as the related tracks directly go from the LED's column to the JD8 connector ? I am pretty sure this is the reason why the LED's 4 to 6 light up together... cheers orange

Hi, yes, I used the once from smashTV. These are the only resistors that I used without checking them before I soldered them on the board, all the others were checked beforehand. It is difficult to describe the behaviour of the CS, but I have noticed that: a) the menu button does sometimes reacts like the SID 1/2 switch in the right top corner b) the function button 4 sometimes reacts like menu button c) when I run a bassline using the sequencer the LED 4,5 and 6 light up together, whilst all the other light up separately. When I switch to another row, the same thing happens d) the waveform (osc section left, middle position) -> the pulse waveform LED does never light, the switch does the right thing. e) the meter switch works fine, but the meter LED does not light up. : There are so many functions not working properly and I can't believe that I have done so many things wrong !??!?! I used a 10x loupe and checked all joints, there is no short to identify. Cheers orange

Hi Peter, I have re-soldered a couple of joints, but still the same issue. I wanted to measure the network resistors and connected them in the following way: 1 to 2 -> 4,14 K 1 to 3 -> 4,14 K 1 to 4 -> 4,14 K 1 to 5 -> 4,14 K 1 to 6 -> 9,91 K This is just one example (R39). All IC's are still in their sockets and I am not sure if this makes a difference for the measurement. And yes, there could also be some issues on the base PCB, as I couldn't test the other cs on my board, as the plugs are different... Cheers orange

Hi, I have insulated the Display of course and actually I use some washers in between, because I need some space for the Window. Please find attached some pictures of the backside of the CS: Please note that the screws on the board don't create a short. I have removed them prior to the testing and they also have a nylon wisher underneath: I also think the encoders work fine and modify the expected parameters... Do I need to remove the IC's close to the network resistors when I measure them ? I will use a 20K scale to measure them. Cheers orange

Hi, I have got exactly the same issue. Some buttons don't react as expected. Especially the menu button jumps into different other sub menus ... very annoying ... Here is a picture of my CS PCB: Also I have recognised that in the Bassline mode while a sequence is played the LED's 4 to 6 glow always together, rather than separate. Before I soldered the components to the CS PCB I tested all LED's, diods and tact switches. After I noticed the fault, I check the following things: - orientation of the diods and LED's -> all as expected - the function of the diods and LED's -> all ok - the cables from the base pcb to the CS pcb -> all ok - all soldering points -> no shorts To exclude a fault in the base PCB I connected the control surface to another MB6582, and it behaved in the same faulty way. Therefore I can exclude that something on my base PCB is faulty. I installed on all PIC's the MB6582 setup, without any errors. I don't know what else I can check ... Any help or recommendation is appreciated ! Thanks orange

Hi, thanks, I have already asked him but he doesn't reply. Maybe he is very busy at the moment ... I will simply use a CD cover, that's very unprofessional, but I have no alternative ... Cheers orange

Hi, I have completed my MB6582 Base PCB and I did some voltage checks (I went for option B, the original C64 power supply). I haven't installed any IC's so far ! What you can not see on the first picture are the following checks: J3 (5V) -> 5,33 V J25 (9-11V) -> 14,28 V -> is this still ok ? C12 (9V) -> 8,97 V I made a mistake in the beginning when I checked J25. Unfortunately I slipped off with the contact and created a short on J25 (for a very short moment). After this I check all the points above with the result: 5 V check points -> 5,33 V 9 V check points -> 8,98 V (regarding the SID's: depending on the jumper - I have tested both positions, 9V and 12V) 12 V check points -> 11,82 V (regarding the SID's: depending on the jumper - I have tested both positions, 9V and 12V) I wonder if I have damaged the two big capacitors close to the voltage regulators ? I mean the measurements look quite ok, apart from the J25 which has 14,28 instead of 11 V. Do you think I can carry on with the board, or do I need to exchange the capacitors or the voltage regulators ? Your advise is much appreciated ! Cheers orange

Hi, what does G.B.S stand for ? Cheers orange

Hi, as I haven't completed the MB6582 yet, I have to play a little bit with my TB 303. http://snd.sc/iiLagP Cheers orange

Hi, I have applied this JBWeld and it works fine. I needed some support from my ML 303 V6 with the heavy helium case to get the right weight on: So I can recommend the glue. Cheers orange

Hi, I just used it today, so will see the results tomorrow. Cheers orange

Hi, I just wanted to ask if this is the appropriate JBWeld to fix the hex nuts on the front panel of the MB6582: Cheers orange

Hi Guys, I am looking for a window for my MB6582. Maybe somebody has a spare one and is willing to sell it ! Cheers orange

Hi, I am currently looking for the plastic hexagon nuts as well as the appropriate washers for the audio sockets at the rear panel of the MB6582. I would appreciate if somebody could give me a hint where I can order them .. Thanks orange

Hi Guys, thanks so far for your help, I will report as soon as I have completed the wiring of the LCD display. In the meantime I had a short night session with my TR 808: http://snd.sc/l7jn4r I am always surprised of the tight timing of my 808 :-) Cheers orange

Hi Hawkeye, sure, I am still struggling to find the right cable and connector. I would like to have a proper 2x8 socket on the base pcb, but I need to check out Reichelt and Mouser to find the right thing .... At the moment my base PCB is looking like this (started 5 days ago): There is still a big piece of work left :-) Cheers orange

Hi jojjelito, thanks for the quick reply. I have summarized it in the following overview which will help me later to build the cable: So you mean that I can connect D0 to D3 without a problem ? Only if there is a problem with the display I should remove the connection for D0 to D3 ? Thanks orange

Hi, I found the following information on ucapps: http://ucapps.de/mbhp_lcd.html I wonder if this applies to the display I bought ? I ask because there is also the 8 bit mode which would look like this: So which one would be the right wiring for my display ? I assume that I have to go with the 4 bit version as I am using the PIC 18F4685, but what do I have to do with the pullup resistor. Is this resistor really necessary ? Thanks orange

Hi, I am currently preparing myself to assemble the MB6582 control surface pcb when I came across the following knowledge gap :-) I bought the display mentioned by Wilba in this thread. Attached you will find the pin specification: So far so good, but where can I find the specification of the pins on the base pcb ? I wonder which pin of the display has to be connected to a pin on the pcb ? Is there somewhere a table with an explanation what the purpose of each pin on the pcb is ? Cheers orange

Thanks, I think I will go for the spider soldering approach on the fly, as I don't have a bread board :-) Cheers orange

Hi, thanks for the feedback ! I think I will do it the way you described it. Maybe 1K is too much, but somewhere in between should be ok.... Cheers orange

Hi, danke ich werde es mal ausprobieren.. Im Parts Forum habe ich noch ein Beispiel gerechnet, so wie ich das Datenblatt verstehe. Aber ich denke da liege ich richitg, denn die Werte decken sich mit Deinen Angaben. Ich wusste auch nicht was die Spannung ist, die die LED's erhalten, aber ich nahm an das es 5 Volt sind, was sich mit Deinen Ausführungen deckt. Danke & Grüße Matthias

Hi Guys, I would need your help regarding a special type of red LED’s that I would like to use in my MB 6582. I have attached the data sheet for the “flat top†LED which is called “Bright Red L-424HDTâ€: I wonder what the dimension of the series resistor (R40 to R55 on the Base PCB) should be for this LED ? I know that there is a formula to calculate the resistance: R = (Ut – Uf) / If but I am not sure if I read the data sheet correctly. Let me calculate an example: Ut = 5 Volt; Uf = 2,1 Volt; If = 10 mA -> this would mean the resistance is R = 290 Ohm -> the LED would have 66% luminous intensity Ut = 5 Volt; Uf = 2,3 Volt; If = 20 mA -> this would mean the resistance is R = 108 Ohm -> the LED would have almost 100% luminous intensity I would appreciate if somebody could confirm that my calculation is correct. As I have ordered the base board parts from SmashTV and there are 220 Ohm resistors forseen, I would assume based on this calculation that they would fit for purpose, wouldn't they ? Sorry I ask this because I don’t have the appropriate knowledge of electronics and just try to get things together from what I could find on various websites. Thanks Orange Flat Top LED KINGBRIGHT L-424 HDT Datasheet.pdf

Hier noch das Datasheet: Flat Top LED KINGBRIGHT L-424 HDT Datasheet.pdf