orange_hand

I agree, the panels are not the issue here ... But the enclosure is :-)

The problem here is, at least from what I understood, that the manufacturer doesn't take small orders. So they wouldn't produce just a single case. Minimum Quantity is 10 pieces ... And I am happy with the design. I know that it takes a hell lot of time to come up with such a design, as well as to define various panels ....

Hi Guys, I just wanted to ask if there are some more people who would like to get a professional made enclosure for the MBSEQ V4. Actually the same as presented in the following bulk order: I just want to get a better impression if it makes sense to start another bulk order... Cheers orange

That's the real thing... I want to hit myself that I missed the bulk orders for the enclosures.... cheers orange

Hi, I am looking for a MBSEQ V4 enclosure. Unfortunately I missed the bulk orders and I would appreciate if somebody could sell me one ... Cheers orange

Yes, that's what I realized a couple of days ago. I thought I would not need a hardware sequencer, but I guess I was wrong. If I could just get a bloody enclosure ... I missed various bulk orders :-( ... Cheers orange

Hi Guys, there is another query I have got related to the sequencer of the MB6582. I was wondering if it is possible to use the MB6582 sequencer in order to control other MIDI devices / synths (e.g. to send sequences to an external MIDI device / synth) ? I haven't come across any menue setup so far. Cheers orange

Hi Guys, I have tried to synchronise the MB6582 with my Acidlab Miami. Unfortunaltey the Miami can't function as the MIDI master, so I have set the MB6582 as the master. Unfortunately the Miami wouldn't start its internal sequencer whenever I start the MB6582. Does the MB6582 not send the trigger information in order to start the Miami appropriately ? Is there something to be setup apart from the clock set to Master ? Cheers orange

Hi, I would also need a complete set of knobs for the MB808 as well as the caps. I would go for the option presented on the picture with the MB808 in this thread. Cheers orange

Hi, I am looking for a sequencer case. If somebody has one and doesn't want to build it, please let me know ! Cheers orange

Hi, you can use the following to check the voltage: If the voltage is not correct on these checkpoint, you have to investigate further.. Cheers & good luck orange

Thanks Peter !

Hi Guys, here is my dual line PSU: Two jacks on the front side and a LED to indicate the function: On the back side there is the power connector (contains 2 fuses and a switch) as well as 3 additional fuse holders. Cheers orange

Hi Guys, I have now compared my prototype PSU with the original C64 PSU. I can’t make out a difference, which means that the switched PSU does not cause noise in the audio path. This is good news, as this power supply will be able to supply two MB652 or two C64 computers at the same time. I just need to update the PSU with some fuses as well as a crowbar on the 5V stream for maximum protection and then I am done. Please note that the small switched PSU is very strong - capable to provide 5V at 5A !! The good thing is that this PSU is easy to build (less number of parts and easy wiring) and does not suffer from any kind of heat issue. It will also be more efficient, as the 5V switched PSU works more efficient compared to a voltage regulator that heats up your studio :-) You can build it with a minimal soldering effort if you like. I have already prepared the enclosure (holes and PCB board) and will post a picture later today. I will keep you updated. Cheers orange

Hi, alternatively you can built the PSU mentioned here: It is a combination of a regular transformer (e.g. from 220V to 9V AC, or from 110V to 9V AC for North Americas :-) ) together with a switched PSU for the 5V supply. I have used a dual line 220V to 9V transformer with 2 x 2,7 A and a switched 5V mini PSU with 5A. What you see on the picture is the prototype in order to check the quality compared to the original C64 PSU. Now I will move on and complete it. When it is finished it will be able to supply two MB6582 or two C64 computers at the same time :-). I have now compared my version with the original C64 PSU and I can't make out a difference. This PSU is easy to build, so you should consider it. Cheers orange

Hi guys, here is my prototype, a combination of a regular transformer and a switched PSU: My first impression is good, but I have to compare it with the original C64 PSU. I will keep you posted. Cheers orange

Hi, I really like the design, that looks cool :-) ! Cheers orange

yeah... the PSU.... an evergreen :tongue: I have now received all parts for my PSU experiment, a combination of the 220 to 9 V AC transformer together with a 4 V DC switching PSU... I will report, how that works... If not, I will go for the optimized design from Hawkeye's PSU :-) Cheers orange

Hey Karl, if you have already got a keyboard that you want to use for this, why don't you measure the voltage and the current ? You can then see how much current the keyboard draws and on which voltage it runs. I am pretty sure that you can easily integrate this with the replacement PSU.... Cheers orange

Congratulations, that is a very nice one ! Can I ask you what kind of heat sinks you've put on the SID's :-) ? Cheers orange

Hi, I just wanted to let you know that I am currently designing a PSU PCB based on an improved version of Retro Donalds design. I hope you are aware that Retro Donalds design should be improved in some respects. I have already ordered some more parts and will soon start building the PSU. If you are interested I will publish my work... Greetz orange

Hi, today I received my new MB6582 rear panel which was made by Schaeffer AG in Germany. I love the German quality work :-) As you can see it is still in its protective cover. You will recognise that I have modified the panel with some features: - I increased the hole for the mix out jack - The following descriptions were added: Mix Out, On/Off, MOD1-4, Audio Out, Fan - There is now a hole for a standard on/off switch for the fan, as well as an indicator LED for the fan - I also added the device name, the serial number of the box as well as the name of the builder :-) I connected the fan with the switch and the LED: I connected a cable to the mix out jack: Here you will see the completely assembled rear panel: Here is the final rear panel (apart from the pot caps, which I haven't installed so far): I hope you also like the minor improvements.... Cheers orange

Hi, this is still "wip" (work in progress)... Cheers orange

Hi, I usually use a rubber hammer to do the job, with so far, 100% success ratio :-). This is a very unconventional method, but I think these connectors are not so difficult to crimp... With my next Reichelt order, I will go for the other crimp tool as well, makes life easier. Cheers orange

Hi, I also bought the one from Reichelt. It is an excellent tool. I've got not enough money to buy cheap tools :-) Cheers orange