Wilba

MB-SEQ V3/V4 Control Surface PCB and matching case

541 posts in this topic

I cant actually locate my initial posts on this, so im hoping its the correct thread!

Attatched are some images of a panel made for someone earlier in the week.

As i can't/dont want to get into doing threadded blinds on the rear of the panel, i suggested just milling circular recessed in the back (2.0mm dp) that some threadded spacers could be 'sat' in and epoxy 'poured' in arround them.

The recess will serve to increase the contact area for the epoxy on both the panel, and the spacer, and hence improve the bond. There are 18 or 19 of these contact points. I think they would be able to withstand more force than the panel components themselves (ie somthing else would break first if you were whacking the sequencer that hard! : )

ps. please ignore the infill residue arround the key caps and led holes on in the photo!

post-5349-126044335158_thumb.jpg

post-5349-126044344873_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As i can't/dont want to get into doing threadded blinds on the rear of the panel, i suggested just milling circular recessed in the back (2.0mm dp) that some threadded spacers could be 'sat' in and epoxy 'poured' in arround them.

The recess will serve to increase the contact area for the epoxy on both the panel, and the spacer, and hence improve the bond. There are 18 or 19 of these contact points. I think they would be able to withstand more force than the panel components themselves (ie somthing else would break first if you were whacking the sequencer that hard! : )

Looks good Julian. Now I need to find out how to make perfect 2mm holes without a machine. What size spacers did you use and how was the button clearance when you attached the pcb?

Regards,

echo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks good Julian. Now I need to find out how to make perfect 2mm holes without a machine. What size spacers did you use and how was the button clearance when you attached the pcb?

Regards,

echo

Ahh, you mistake me for someone who actually gets arround to building things for himself!

(the metalwork was not for me, but for someone else)

When you mention button clearance, do you meen arround the edge of the buttons, or behind the buttons (ie distance from pcb to front panel)

If its arround the buttons, the clearence is pretty minimal, but fine (i meen you dont want much anyhow). This is using wilbas fpd dimensions, and my cutters.

If youre talking behind the panel, between that and the pcb, i wouldnt know for certain (as i dont have a pcb) but, going from my experiance with x0xb0x building, i would say...

On a x0xb0x i use 12mm spacers, and 1.5mm panels.

This 3mm panel has 2mm recesses in the rear, so, using 12mm spacers (the same as i use on the x0xb0x) will result in the button caps being 0.5mm higher. Which i think would be fine ergonomically. I wouldnt want the caps 0.5mm lower, but 0.5mm more sticking out will be fine.

Without a mill, im not certain how you are to do all the square holes, but, assuming you have them...

I wouldnt not bother with the recesses on the rear for the pcb pillars. I would 'hack' (for want of a better term) the surface at the back of the panel to rough / gouge it as much as possible (i dont meen sand, i meen score as much as you can). I would then make sure its very clean, and the hex spacer very clean also (remember you would need 10mm and not 12mm then, as there would be no recess) and epoxy them on using a slow setting resin (a 15-24hr one)

I would fit the spacers to the pcb, and some switches + caps to locate the position on the panel, apply the resin to both the panel, and the spacers (which are bolted to the pcb) and sit the whole lot together. The switch caps / panel components will locate the pcb in perfect alignment with the panel, and then you can leave well alone to set.

...applogies if this has all been covered before, but its a long thread now, and i must admit to not having read the whole lot!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh Julian, I wanted to show off the panel but you beat me to it :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Phil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...yeah, but itll look way more impressive once youve built it! : )

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Wilba,

I did notice that (after I asked Julian to manufacture the panel). I thought that I would try it with the fixings as is and if the board does flex too much in use then I would just epoxy some 10mm standoffs direct to the panel.

Thanks

Phil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pardon me if I'm late to the game on this, but I think optional rack ears is the way to go. Cisco does this all the time with their routers: sit the thing on a table or screw on a pair of rack ears and slide it into the rack. This is one of the things that wound up bugging me a bunch sometime after I bought a rack panel for my MBSID. I wound up wanting to put it on a gutted C64.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

just added my name to the waiting list

edit: ah man, I just saw the post about no more orders :( I'm keeping my name on there just in case another bulk order gets started.

Edited by Labelwhore

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm running Wilba's "Bleeding edge prototypers bulk order #2". If Wilba has confirmed your order you should have received an email from me on Dec. 22 explaining what you need to do. If you have a confirmed order from Wilba but have *not* received an email from me, please send me a message via the forum so I can ensure I get your order details. If I don't hear from you by Sunday, Jan. 10, I will assume you are no longer interested and will allocate your board to another buyer.

BTW I believe all PCBs have been allocated to buyers at this time. If any spares become available, I'll post here and see if anyone is interested. :-)

Thanks,

C

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm running Wilba's "Bleeding edge prototypers bulk order #2". If Wilba has confirmed your order you should have received an email from me on Dec. 22 explaining what you need to do. If you have a confirmed order from Wilba but have *not* received an email from me, please send me a message via the forum so I can ensure I get your order details. If I don't hear from you by Sunday, Jan. 10, I will assume you are no longer interested and will allocate your board to another buyer.

BTW I believe all PCBs have been allocated to buyers at this time. If any spares become available, I'll post here and see if anyone is interested. :-)

Thanks,

C

Hello,

First I wish you an happy new year Chris.

I answered to your mail you sent me already.

And, just seeing the forum, I repply just to inform you that I wait to all the info for the 3 PCBs I ordered.

Best regards,

Francois

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

happy new year to all,

Wilba,

i' ve seen on the wiki pcb bulk order page that:

"YOU ABSOLUTELY MUST PUT YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS IN YOUR MIDIBOX FORUM MEMBER PROFILE OR YOUR ORDER WILL BE IGNORED!!!

Do you talk about "contact information" in public profile?

regards

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

happy new year to all,

iam new here and just ordered the core 32 and other stuff to build the new seq v. 4.

i`ve seen that there was a bulkorder from wilba for the pcb behind the frontpanel, but i think its close or?

i´am very interested in these, are they still available?

can anyone tell me were i can order it?

thanks very much, greatings:-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

happy new year to all,

iam new here and just ordered the core 32 and other stuff to build the new seq v. 4.

i`ve seen that there was a bulkorder from wilba for the pcb behind the frontpanel, but i think its close or?

i´am very interested in these, are they still available?

can anyone tell me were i can order it?

thanks very much, greatings:-)

There is a small (closed) bulk order going on now for the "bleeding edge prototypers". What this means is (a) you have to figure out your own case solution, and (b) you have limited build instructions, help, debugging info, etc. This bulk order is already closed, but if there are any spare boards I will post about it here once I devise the most unfair system possible for allocating spares, if any. :-)

Once there is a full bulk order getting started, Wilba or someone will post here about it.

Regards,

C

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

About the panels

Im looking at the fpd files and see the area around the lcds on the back side is ?milled? down abit. I understand that this is for the windows to sit in and not so much for the lcd to fit through and be flush. Is this correct? Also I see the plastic panel has no windows at all so I assume that this work is not actually needed at all. Could someone explain this to me in easy small words so I can understand. I am working with a local place to get the panel made and we are looking for options to make it cheaper.

Thanks, Lief

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The "cavity" on the back of the panel, around the edge of the LCD window cutout, is 1.5mm deep, and this matches the 1.5mm "cavity" around the edge of the clear acrylic window part. Since both are 3mm thick, they fit together so they are flush on both sides.

You can make it cheaper by leaving out the cavity on the back of the panel and then just not using the acrylic window or getting the acrylic window laser cut to snap-fit into the cutout.

I don't really understand what you mean by "Also I see the plastic panel has no windows at all". The acrylic window FPD should have a cavity on the top, making a 1.5mm square bevel edge that will match the same bevel edge on the panel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't really understand what you mean by "Also I see the plastic panel has no windows at all". The acrylic window FPD should have a cavity on the top, making a 1.5mm square bevel edge that will match the same bevel edge on the panel.

Sorry Wilba I was thinking about vcfools as he used the clear plastic panel and did not cut the window holes at all. I was really just thinking out using the same solution as you did on the 6582 and just glue on a piece of plastic on the back side of the panel and living with the slight inperfection.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I only did that on my MB-6582 to fill the gap. On the SEQ it's not required... the LCD can be mounted as close to the panel as possible. That's probably preferable IMHO... it would look the same as nearly all the MB-SEQ V3 based on TK's original.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes with my LCD I have used 8mm standoffs (sitting 2mm in the blinds) and the LCD just sits away from the front (enough for me to put some 2mm perspex in the slot.

post-6005-1262788772_thumb.jpg

Phil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As I would like to put my MB SEQ in a case, I have been looking around for rack enclosures and I found this:

post-6005-126377055971_thumb.jpg

It is available from Farnell: http://uk.farnell.co...jsp?sku=1526725

I have ordered the 3u black one. my thought is as the front panel is removable I can just fix my panel on top of the rack ears.

Also being ABS, I can cut holes/slots in the back without too much trouble.

I will post some pics when it arrives.

Cheers

Phil

Edited by philetaylor

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well the postman really cheered me up this morning my delivery from fussylizard has arrived.

So much for cleaning and tidying the house, today has been MB Seq building day!

The result is:

post-6005-126488050811_thumb.jpg

I couldn't think of a more appropriate synth to put in the rack with my MB Seq than my trusty old D-110, I had forgotten how good that bass is (it was used on Toms Diner)

I haven't put it in the case yet but that monitor speaker is a useful stand for the CORE32 !!!

Cheers

Phil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I forgot to mention, I only made 1 mistake (one of the bi-colour LED's reversed!) it really is a testament to your design skills wilba! Thanks to you and fussylizard for the bulk order, and of course to TK for creating the whole thing :)

One point, rather than use wires to connect the datawheel encoder, I managed to bend the pins through 180 degrees and connect them through the back of the PCB. You need to be very careful but it worked for me!

Cheers

Phil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got my parts today! I am thrilled almost to the point of having withdrawal symptoms from my soldering station. Wilba's PCB looks like it will almost self-assemble. I sense wicked design skills. Big thanks to Fussylizard and Wilba! Not to forget TK as I'll soon experience the software.

Edited by olga42

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

:frantics: got my pcb!

huge thanks to wilba, fussylizard and TK.

:D

i also bent my pins 180 deg. for data encoder.

yet to make frontpanel and install leds.

pcb = a joy to assemble.

pics soon.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now