toneburst Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 Hi Mike,where did you get your Splined encoders from? I have D-shaft ones from Voti, bit I have some nice caps that fit Splined shafts, so I'm considering changing.a|x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toneburst Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 Looking forward to seeing what that custom case is going to look like!I still have a couple of SID modules left over from my previous attempt to make a working SID synth (I'm making one of Wilba's MB-6582's at the moment, with the PT-1 case). I'm considering making a custom case for the 2 old SIDs, possibly with a control-surface like Ixox's ( http://www.midibox.org/midibox_gallery/ixox1.jpg ). Hopefully in the Summer of next year, when it's quiet, I'll be able to persuade the design technicians at the college where I work to let me use their laser-cutting and metal folding equipment, so it shouldn't cost me too much.Let's see how I get on with the MB-6582 too first, though...a|x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Futureman Posted December 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 Hi Mike,where did you get your Splined encoders from? I just searched ebay for "Rotary encoder"There is a good store called "Virtual Village" or a derivative of that, and often the sell them in packs of 10 with knobs included... iehttp://cgi.ebay.com.au/10-Pack-of-12mm-Rotary-Encoder-Switches-Knobs-Dials-New_W0QQitemZ400013148985QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116But look at other results, because there can be up to $5 difference (Including postage) in their listings even tho they are all from the same company? RegardsMike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toneburst Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 Thanks Mike.They sell them through UK eBay too.a|x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goblinz Posted December 18, 2008 Report Share Posted December 18, 2008 Just wanted to post discretely in here that I think I may be stupid!Spent months trying to find the fault on my mb-6582 CS that was somehow triggering two or more different buttons at once when pressing just one button. Swapped out a load of diodes along the particular track, reconnected the control surface 3 times, hours of trouble shooting and finally decided that it would be best to have them connected va headers and IDC connectors. When I was soldering the connection I had a realisation and think i've found the problem... R39 on the baseboard is in the wrong way! I'm guessing that this means that rather than all pins on JD 5 being pulled to ground via a resistor (and each other), they've been just pulled together through the resistor... Doh! Going to try and desolder and rotate the resistor network later tonight and fingers crossed that I've not fried anything!Hopefully I'm one step closer to getting this finished now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Futureman Posted December 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 Here we go... got this today in the post... All up it cost me AU$235, which is about US$160 at the moment with our crap dollar.I asked the guy to leave out the side tabs if he could not bend them... grrrrr.. oh well, I'll get busy with a dremel and score them and fold em by hand.I'm very happy with the result anyway.RegardsMike1 - Panel Bare.JPG1 - Panel Bare 2.JPG1 - Panel Tryout 1.JPG1 - Panel Bare.JPG1 - Panel Bare 2.JPG1 - Panel Tryout 1.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Futureman Posted December 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 more...1 - Panel Tryout 2.JPG1 - Panel with old pcb.JPG1 - Panel Tryout 2.JPG1 - Panel with old pcb.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Futureman Posted December 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 Tabs folded.. only took about 10min with a Dremel cutting tool (Well, I went through 2 cutting disks tho)Here it is with it's design inspiration.1 - With Source.JPG1 - With Source.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stryd_one Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 Nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Futureman Posted December 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 I chopped up a 4 octave keyboard, and tested it... here's a rough representation of it fitted.Like the Source, I'll have timber to the side of the keys, as well as under the keys.What colour? I've toyed with the idea of getting it chromed, but after the last time I got something chromed and the amount of time I spent calling them up after they made mistake after mistake, I don't feel like going through that whole experience again...Black is classic & the easiest, and probably the most practical.. White is another option.RegardsMike1 - Panel with keys.JPG1 - Panel with keys.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Romantschuk Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 First of all: Great thread!On case colors:Chrome would indeed be cool... Maybe local car-tuning people could recommend a place which won't f**k it up? Black and white are classic, but a bit boring... A nordlike red would be cool, if that's your thing. Would look industial and agressive, fitting to the SID sound. :)How do you plan to do the case labels? Do you have a place to get it silkscreened or what's the plan? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Futureman Posted December 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 I'm not 100% sure what I'm going to do about the artwork, but I'm thinking of getting a vinyl overlay made up... I've had a few bits of kit chromed, the face of a Eminent Solina, and an TR-808 that was very rusty.. The company that did chromed my solina were great, but then closed down.. the one that did the 808 had that face for about 6 months screwing me around.. when I got it back it was warped I sent it back, and that took another 2 months before it was ready.. I was convinced they had lost it..I don't know if I can go through all that trauma again.. It would look bitchin chromed tho ;]RegardsMike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Labelwhore Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 Man that's gonna be one mean lookin' synth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted December 20, 2008 Report Share Posted December 20, 2008 Awesome stuff!Yell out if you need help with wiring a new switch/LED matrix, I'd be glad to help.Did you align switches/LEDs/encoders so you can build the CS using standard 100mil spacing protoboard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stryd_one Posted December 20, 2008 Report Share Posted December 20, 2008 FWIW I hate chrome/alum/metal cases. Get filthy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Futureman Posted December 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2008 Yell out if you need help with wiring a new switch/LED matrix, I'd be glad to help.Did you align switches/LEDs/encoders so you can build the CS using standard 100mil spacing protoboard?I think I've got two options with regards to the control surface... 1- Re-invent your (Wilba / TK) CS with everything etc.. 2- Do a hack job with jumpers coming off the official MB-6582 CS PCB...Option 1 could be rather laborious, and I'm lazy and it's prone to me making mistakesOption 2 Is a WHOLE lot of extra wires going all over the place - BUT it's idiot proof! (I'm a bit of an idiot.)For the mean time, I've kinda decided on option 2... I have already ordered a CS circuit board.... I know it is certainly not elegant.. more of a brute force approach.As for the spacing, yep.. most of it is based around veroboard spacing.. 1/10th of an Inch... but not all, as the way the tact switches can be aligned and centred (different orientations) means some of it's out by 1/20th of an Inch..I was going to make it out of a few big pieces of vero, but due to the encoders being panel mount and the offset tact switches, I've broken it up into small modules of parts.My plan is to cut a piece of timber (cheap mdf of ply) which is 6-8mm thick the same size as my control surface and manually cut all the holes in the control surface (very roughly and bigger)..This would get glued to the underside, forming one big spacer so the pcb's / tacts / LED's and encoders are at a nice elevation..That way, all the little modules of switches can be screwed to the underside with small wood screws, leaving no screws etc on the front face.Thats my P l a n anyway.. see how it eventuates.RegardsMike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stryd_one Posted December 20, 2008 Report Share Posted December 20, 2008 3) LOL don't forget the original approach, use modules from smash :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Futureman Posted December 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2008 Maybe I didn't search hard enough, but does anyone know how much juice a fully stuffed MB-6582 pulls?The regulator for the SID's doesn't even get warm, so my guess is for the 12v Rail.. not much at all..I wonder how much the 5v rail pulls with all the LED's on & backlight etc?I mean, is the C64 power supply way way over-rated for this spec? I H A T E external power supplies, and plan on sticking the powersupply inside, but the C64 power supply is a big fella.. it'll fit, but it'll be cosy.I see in this threadhttp://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,12666.0/topicseen.htmla nice possible alternative, but I'm wondering if it is capable of delivering enough juice to drive a fully stuffed 6582?Also, on a Side note, I found a powder coater that will paint my chassis for $30.. just gotta decide on the colour... I'm still edging towards White / BiegeRegardsMike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted December 22, 2008 Report Share Posted December 22, 2008 Based on datasheet calculations, the 5V supply usage is ~1000mA.PICs are 23mA each, 6582A SIDs 70/100mA each, LEDs 100mA max, LCD ~280mA.If the SIDs are at the max current, then it's ~1200mA.9V supply usage is ~320mA.Some people have trouble with the C64 PSU not supplying enough current - i.e. their MB-6582 works with a few SIDs but stops working with five or more. You probably won't have that problem if you use a new transformer.BTW I have far too many (i.e. a lifetime supply) of this transformer: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,10832.msg83349.html#msg83349 and they came with connected switch and mains power socket. They cost a bomb to get shipped here, but they're still probably cheaper than anything you can find in Australia. It's smaller than the C64 PSU's transformer, which is essentially 2x 9VAC @ 1.5A. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julienvoirin Posted December 24, 2008 Report Share Posted December 24, 2008 MIDI Controller OUT ------>SPLIT----->Mikes Project MIDI OUT Socket | \------>MERGE BOX ---------------> MB-6582 CORE Input ^ |Mikes Project MIDI IN Socket ------------/forget all of thisthe Graal is called "MB Link" : direct out of a midibox based keybaord to the MB6582 in (just one wire). your Cubase connect to the In of the keyboard, the keyboard act like a merger, sending the cubase notes to the MB6582. When you play notes on the midibx keybaord, the MB6582 let them go out from its OUT (MB6582 is also a merger, only for midi data created by midiboxes).Keyboard needs ID4 for MIOS and appli updates.I did this machine for somebody and certify it is working. I don't have the code here, it's on my G5. I will give more hints when i am back home.Seriously, TK is a genius :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Futureman Posted December 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2008 the Graal is called "MB Link" : direct out of a midibox based keybaord to the MB6582 in (just one wire). Thats cool, but my keyboard is not midibox based, it's an 'off the shelf' midi controller that i've chopped off one octave.I like the idea of a software merge in the 6582, but as that is not within my realms of expertise, I can't exactly tackle it.Thanks for the 'heads up' tho!Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Futureman Posted January 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2009 Back...Been a long break (Very busy over christmas & NY with work)I've finished making up the control section (minus the encoders)My advice to anyone wanting to DIY the 6582 control surface with Proto / Vero board --> It's a frigging lot of work. A F@#KING lot of wires.. It might not look like a lot in that picture, but it is... I made a few mistakes along the way, and the further you get, the harder it is to fault find... but I'm pretty sure it's all 100%.. I might have a few questions for people with working 6582's (I sold my old control surface, so can't verify somethings) but I'll cross that bridge later.The keyboard is properly mounted, at the correct hight etc, but in the picture, it looks a bit out of whack because the metal chasis is elevated by the Commodore 64 powersupply lead... ultimately, there will be an internal powersupply..I've also wired up the keyboard transpose keys & LED's but these are not shown in the picture..The Screen is working, but I made the cable too short for it to be stuck in just yet... I would make another up, but i've used all my ribbon cable.. lol.It's quite funny, but the crumby zinc coating colour on the steel has grown on me... but I'm pretty certain it's going retro beige colour, mainly out of it 64 roots etc..RegardsMike2 - Crazy birdls nest.JPG2 - Nearly fitted.JPG2 - Crazy birdls nest.JPG2 - Nearly fitted.JPG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 Nice work! You have now joined a very small group of people who have manually wired an MB-6582 style switch/LED matrix. (From memory, I think it's only TK, MTE, subatomic and maybe SounDuke). It's this amount of manual wiring that inspired me to make the CS PCB, even though PCB designing probably took me ten times as long as manual wiring :)This will look pretty cool in retro beige... I like the darker beige of the original C64 actually... have a look how good it might look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stryd_one Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 Whoa, bitchin work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filch Posted January 17, 2009 Report Share Posted January 17, 2009 I love the industrial look of it as it is. Nice and metal :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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