Xem Posted June 28, 2009 Report Share Posted June 28, 2009 Hello, i built the 6582.. i finished everything and i'm so happy,but what break my happiness is the fact that 2 leds of the matrix can't turn on..the strange thing is that they are inside the matrix (6 col, 3 row and 4 col 6 row),and the fact that another led had the same problem.. i added some iron and now it works..i cant fix the other 2 whit the same method, they have enought iron now on each side.I've tested the joining and they are ok..what could be the problem?thxps.the leds works, putting 5 volt (whit the resistor) it light uppps.. is normal that all over the board some led are lightly lighted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted June 28, 2009 Report Share Posted June 28, 2009 Try lighting up all the LEDs with the test app I wrote (find it in this post: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,10390.msg78577.html#msg78577)For the LEDs that don't work, test connection between the LED lead above the control surface PCB and the resistor (or transistor) on the base PCB.If the connections are good, then perhaps there is a short somewhere.You can also test the LEDs and connections by taking out all the 74HC595 and putting 5V into both the IC socket pins which go to the resistor and transistor... this will light up individual LEDs. Or, put 5V into the IC sockets above the resistors, and GND into the pads below the transistors. Don't put 5V/Gnd directly into the LED matrix connections, there are no resistors on the PCB... use a resistor like you did to test the LEDs if you want to test by powering the LED matrix connections at the bottom edge of the PCBs... just remember to take out the ICs.It's not normal that some LEDs have different brightness. If there are definitely bright and not-bright ones, list the ones that are not-bright... perhaps they all are on the same "row" or "column" of the LED matrix... which might tell you that one of the resistors is different, or one of the transistors is not sinking enough current. The other cause might be poor quality LEDs (uneven brightness between LEDs), or overheating when soldering the LEDs, or (not likely) too much current to a LED causing it to "burn out" and not be as bright... I've done this with LEDs I was testing, LEDs do not like 200+ mA of current, they will be very bright for a short time (a few minutes) and then drop in brightness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted June 28, 2009 Report Share Posted June 28, 2009 Instead of listing the not-so-bright LEDs, just run the test app and take a photo :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xem Posted June 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2009 ill do it.. now is the seaside time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xem Posted June 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2009 That's the situation..perfect connection to resistor-transistor.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted June 29, 2009 Report Share Posted June 29, 2009 So which LEDs are "not so bright" as others? Do you mean the ones at the top? SID 1, SID 2, SID 3, SID 4, Sync, CC, Edit, Play, SID L/R ?Are all these LEDs the same colour? If yes, are they all from the same batch (bought at same time, were in same bag, etc)?For the non-working LEDs, are you sure the anode and cathode are in the correct holes? Perhaps you tested them by touching leads to 5V/ground through resistor, but didn't check if it's the same polarity as the others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xem Posted June 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2009 i know that different colour led could have different light intensity.. so i chosed to use the green ones just in the topright..i bought the leds from a chines ebayer. i paid 150 leds 10 euros or a little more.. the led resistors are all equal, this is sure..the 220 ohm resistors was so much little.. i changed it with 10K s.. could the current be too little? maybe the led are to the threshold limit to the saturation.. edit..Bingo! i putted a 220 ohm resistor in parallel to the the other resistors.. the leds light up!some leds remain less lighter... =( .. it should be so much hard replace them...edit 2..Done! it wasnt so hard! =D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted June 30, 2009 Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 So what colour LEDs are you using elsewhere? It is hard to tell from the photo.10K resistors will work for superbright LEDs, but only the very brightest ones.The problem is, different colour LEDs have different voltage drops, so using the same resistor will mean different current for LEDs of different colour/type.So did you fix the problem with the LEDs that do not turn on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xem Posted June 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 yes.. i tested the non soldered leds.. just 1/4 was good.. the some of the other didnt work and some lighted not much ..so i replaced the less lighter and the non working putting on the best.. the result is pretty good.. i'm satisfied..is just left to fix the lcd.. i cant find the screws! =(I'll play to a contest the 8 of july.. i have to prepare some music.. so thanck you for the help..edit..some leds still a little lighted when they should be turned off.. expecially the "ring" led when the "oscillator 1" and the "square waveform" are turned on..edit2..i got another problem.. i putted the 4 pics, but they do not have the right "id device".. the strange thing is that i change the j11 position.. but when i burn the device_id_0*.hex it is copied trought every pic that have the same id device (selected in the mios studio upload window).. it seems that it do not care of the j11 setting.. why that?! there are other jumpers to put somewhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted July 1, 2009 Report Share Posted July 1, 2009 the "little lighted" LEDs are because you're using superbright LEDs and not using a big enough resistor. This happens on my MB-6582 when they are too bright... it is because the LEDs are in a matrix and when it switches "columns" of the LED matrix, the LEDs in the column that was just "on" has some lingering current sinking (perhaps the transistor doesn't switch fast enough?) It is not a problem with standard LEDs or superbright LEDs when using a big enough resistor to make them "normal" brightness (i.e. 3K-5K)Why are you burning "device_id_0*.hex"? Did you burn the bootloader yourself with ID=0 and need to change IDs on them?You should not need to do any changing of device IDs if you got PICs from SmashTV.Some info:ALL the PICs are connected to the SAME "MIDI In". J11 only controls which PIC uses the "MIDI Out".So if you put PICs with the same device ID in all sockets, and upload to that device ID, they all will receive the upload and install it, but only one of them will be "sending feedback".Once they all have different device IDs, it's no problem, because then they all will receive the upload but only the one with the matching device ID will install it (i.e. the MIOS Studio setting targets which PIC).So you need to set them to different device IDs... put them each in Core 1 (without any PICs in Core 2,3,4)... give them IDs 0,1,2,3 and then put them in Core 1,2,3,4. Then you can upload the MB-SID app to each one just by changing the device ID in MIOS Studio. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xem Posted July 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2009 ALL the PICs are connected to the SAME "MIDI In". J11 only controls which PIC uses the "MIDI Out".i didn't know.. =D i didn't bought the pic from smashtv..i used a 1k2~ resisistors (not 10k as i said) .. do the leds risk to break? they are not so bright Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted July 1, 2009 Report Share Posted July 1, 2009 You need to know what their maximum forward current and forward voltage drop are, and choose a resistor appropriately.http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/led.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xem Posted July 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2009 mh... i think i'll replace the resistors =D i used this machinary for and hour, an when i finished i saw light everywere on the walls =Dhowever.. i like this mb6581 project, it is extremly complete..how can i have a serial number to put on the "serial number sticker".. ill take some photo as a building proof.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted July 6, 2009 Report Share Posted July 6, 2009 Serial numbers are self-assigned, I don't have to see proof or anything... the wiki page just makes them unique numbers I guess...http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=wilba_mb_6582_builders_list Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xem Posted July 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2009 i'm not there!! =(maybe i wasnt registered when i bought the kit.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted July 7, 2009 Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 I said, I don't keep track of the list... YOU add it when you want to give yourself a serial number! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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