m00dawg Posted August 1, 2009 Report Share Posted August 1, 2009 I tried searching around for this but I have a weird issue where one of the encoders on my MB6582 (center one on the top row) only seems to increment if I turn the knob left and right. I've checked the pins, traced back all the way to the IC and swapped chips. Same result.Seems like I probably need to replace the encoder but I thought I'd check to see if someone has seen this before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridracer Posted August 1, 2009 Report Share Posted August 1, 2009 I had this behaviour on all of my encoders on my SEQ:I used ALPS encoder STEC16B04 743420 from www.distrelec.de But they only decreased values when I connected them as described in the wiki. I got them to work by switching ground and highest din pin.That only one of your encoders goes mad seams weird.But you migth check all combinations to connect it's three pins an see if you can get it work.Finally that is what I did. Good thing is that you can't break anything by doing so.Hope you have success.Gridracer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted August 2, 2009 Report Share Posted August 2, 2009 This effect does happen if you connect an encoder incorrectly (i.e. it has happened to me when I got the pinout wrong and pins 1 and 3 were swapped).... in this case, it's not likely since you probably used the right part and the PCB suits this part.If you manually removed the detent, then perhaps one of the contacts was moved so it's not making contact anymore.Another possibility is one pin is always grounded. On the MB-6582, the right pin (pin 3) should be grounded... however there is an alternate set of pads with a different pinout underneath the intended encoder (STEC16B, Soundwell 16mm, "Voti" encoders)... check if those pads are shorted... it could also be a short between pin 1 and 2.What you can also do is test connectivity between pin 1 and pin 3 (ground)... pref. with a beeping multimeter mode... it should beep while the encoder is being rotated between detents and not beep when it's stopped on a detent. Repeat test between pin 2 and pin 3. You might want to check with a good encoder so you know you're testing correctly. You could also do this test on the left two pins of JD2 (or where they connect to the CS PCB).It's also possible but unlikely that the short is somewhere else along the tracks... like where they pass close to the spacer mount between 5th and 6th encoders on the bottom row. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00dawg Posted August 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2009 Well go figure now it only decrements :) I think the problem is likely something to do with the solder joins for the cables. I reflowed many joins that appeared to be in mediocre shape and the result is counting down instead of up. I will continue to play with it though since I think I've honed in on what the problem likely is.I went ahead and replaced the encoder (before reflowing the joins) and it still only counted up. So it doesn't appear to be that, though I did check for shorts under the knobs as suggested.I'll keep at it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted August 3, 2009 Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 Aha! Let this be a word of warning to others! Turns out, the method I was using to test the connectivity of the cables didn't account for the orientation of the control surface. When I was testing it, the boards were folded, more or less, together. But when I actually supply power to the board, I stand the control surface up so it doesn't short out anything.In that orientation, there were shorts both with the 8th column and a few of the encoders (which explains why I was having issues in another post). Trouble is, I'm not sure how best to test things easily when in this mode but at least I know what the problem is.So, for anyone else building an MB-6582, be sure to take into account board positions when checking for continuity!Does solving your other problem also solve the encoder problem completely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00dawg Posted August 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 Yep sure did! Turns out, though, that the root problem is the cabling I used. The cables themselves I think are sound (they are very similar to what you recommended on the Wiki and linked off one of the forum posts linked from it as well). However, I didn't hook the cables up flush to the board and I think over time the bending about broke some of the individual wires :(Still looking at my options. I'm thinking it might be easier to solder individual wires instead of cabling. That way if I do run into this problem again, I only need to replace the single wire instead of the entire cable.Only problem is that I have to unsolder all 8 cables (well, 7 maybe since I already swapped one and I think it's pretty solid). I suppose I could just solder additional wires on the contacts that are broken.Damnit :) Oh well. At least I nailed down the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fussylizard Posted August 3, 2009 Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 Should have used the right-angle connectors like me.Sorry, couldn't resist. :-) Glad you got it sorted out though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00dawg Posted August 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 Yes, yes, I'm painfully reminded of that :) Although I do think these cables are a good solution. The problem is that I didn't do a very good job of putting the cables on correctly. I hadn't taken into account the stress. Actually, if the cables weren't quite so rigid it probably would not have been a big issue either.Oh well :) Far dig either way, although I still have the right angled connectors so I could still go that route. I'm going to look at it tomorrow and see how many bad connections there are. If it's not many, I'm going to go with the additional wire method. If that doesn't pan out, I'll probably re-evaluate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wilba Posted August 3, 2009 Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 Those pads are fat at both ends... splitting the wires and desoldering isn't that painful and the chances of lifting a pad are small.I used fairly stiff 0.1" ribbon cable but made sure to pre-bend the wires thus the solder joint isn't stressed. See here. I've opened and closed my MB-6582 at least a hundred times since and had no problems. Right angle connectors are good though, I just didn't want to make 132 crimp pins ;) plus they're impossible to get locally so I treasure the gold plated ones SmashTV sent me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00dawg Posted August 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 Yep pre-bending is one of the steps I left out :/I did have to resolder one of the cables. It wasn't terrible but was quite time consuming so if it's just like 3 or 4 bad contacts I'll likely go soldering a few wires. That will make it look ghetto but no one will see on the inside and I can fix it later (running out of time to finish it before I won't get a chance to work on it for a few months).The angled connectors would be a good idea but if I have to go to that much work, I'm wondering if it would be just as good to solder individual wires (which should bend a bit better). Still weighing my options... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fussylizard Posted August 3, 2009 Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 I just used thin ribbon cables I got from SmashTV years ago. They are nice and flexible so very little stress on the connectors. Hand crimping those connectors took me about 2.5 hours using a crimp tool. Not the most exciting of times I must say...I do love those crimp pins and housings that SmashTV sells. I'll have to ask where he gets them so I won't be bothering him stuff like that. I finally just started ordering a bunch of each size to have them on hand since I use them so much. I tried some similar ones I found at Mouser but I had horrible luck with them. So I just ordered more from SmashTV. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00dawg Posted August 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 Yeah I ordered quite a few from him as well. They do work very good - I've even been able to use them for larger cable than its rated for (I used wires from a broken PSU for some of the power connections) without any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lief138 Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 Im Just now reading this and although its late I thought that I would add that I too had the same problem. It turned out that I was "Daft as shit" and actually missed soldering 2 pins when making the cable connections. After wasting a bunch of time (maybe 2 days tring all sorts of stupid stuff) I finally got serious with the multimeter and found the problem in a couple minutes... Dont be daft as shit like me and use the heck out of your multimeter.Ill go back to my cage now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00dawg Posted August 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 Haha yeah that's a problem. Been using my multimeter to the point I finally had to replace the battery :) The problem is I can't test it in the orientation the boards will be during normal use. So when I was testing it, it worked, but when I had the boards in their normal place, they didn't. Took me a while to figure out it was because of a bad connection. Kinda sucks but oh well :)The only thing I'm worried about is that it's going to look ghetto. If money and time grew on trees, I'd almost be inclined to start with a new board knowing what I now know :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.