basta73

;D

Will each module employ a scalable, slave-core model, like the MF module? 8 triggers per slave core? I am very excited about this one. ;)

Admir, What happened with your original go.to site?

Which samples, from maxim-ic, are for midibox related projects? Have you found any other goodies?

No link, but, for example... At the table on the left, under MB Hardware Platform Click on the "Core Module" link. Scroll down just below the first paragraph until you see the Download category. The middle link has the ".brd" extension, under the Schematics header.

So, If your motorfaders are not touch sensitive, you can use a switch to interrupt the motors, and allow you to make adjustments without damaging the faders... Must you use 1 switch per fader, or does 1 switch turn off all faders' motors simultaneously? Has anyone tried using a footswitch to trigger this? It seems this would be the least intrusive way to handle non-touch-sensitive boards.

Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for. I was worried about powering extensive motorfaders, but now I think it's easier to dedicate a power supply to them. I had a feeling that the LED rings did not drain the same as the sum of their LEDs. Thanks again!

I am proposing a new section, under the micellaneous header, titled "Praises", just to give shout outs to those in the community that provide noteworthy achievements. Aside from being an emmensely active, and productive community, this is one of the most positive forums anywhere. It would be nice to recognize those members which make this place work so well.

I have 6 button caps like the ones on the Mackie HUI and Logic Control. They are just caps, and you have to figure out how to mount them in your casing, and have them make contact with your switch. I got the caps from a crestron system installer. Maybe you can call up/ email crestron and ask them where they get them. www.crestron.com Actually, isn't someone affiliated with Mackie New Zealand? They should be able to tell you where to get the button caps directly. Who was that? It will be a huge pain in the ass, getting the cases made to fit these.

My thoughts were that if you... A. Painted out your buttons so that only the LED in and out points were exposed, and B. Used point-source LEDs, instead of diffused LEDs, and C. Covered the whole painted button (even icons and words) with 3-4 coats of clear topcoat then... The button would stay looking sharp and minimize bleed into other LEDs

Consider drilling a hole, like Pilo said, but measure out the nub, you may not have to drill the hole all the way through the casing, only part way. Also, if you have access to a drill press, this will help you from slipping and drilling all the way through.

Oh, yeah! A scroll mouse is much nicer when gutted (wheel's nicer). But getting 2 encoders out of it is a little bulky, so plan on having a lot of negative space around it.

If you take the casing off of your mouse, it should be set up for what you want. The encoders around the mouse are set up in a L-R and up-down configuration, and the wheels are slick, but very responsive to the touch. You could mount the case-less mouse in whatever enclosure you want, and use it through a program like Girder, or bypass some of it's internal circuits, and adapt it to MIOS. Not that I know exactly how, but it seems more than possible.

You could also paint over some of the clear frosted Plexi, Leaving only a little area exposed for the LED. Like the mouth of this puckered guy :-*

Pilo, You had the same thought I did  ;) .  5 characters per channel, and very thin lines drawn on the surface of the display.  I'm still not sure about staggering the layout.  I'm trying to figure out if it feels better to have the layout crowded, or eratic.