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Wise

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Posts posted by Wise

  1. Ehum...yeah..this is kind of embarrassing...

    Well, the project has stand still from my last post. The good news is that it's not in the bin. I see various bits of it lying around in my hobbyroom every day.

    Actually it is not so much left to do. A couple of pcb's to draw, frontpanel have to be made and some programming.

    Hopefully I can get some time and motivation to finnish the project this summer.

  2. This project is like Bambi on ice, slowly moving forward. It's been in idle now for some month because /)%(%¤"(/¤ Vi*ta is not letting me use my CAD software. So right now i'm making some backups prior a XP install..

    Your local glazier shop should have or point out for you where to look for the acrylic rod. I have abandoned the rod and got my plastic caps lasercutted instead.

  3. You don't **** around do you?  ;D

    Hey Wise, good job. I`m glad you chose midibox over the girls.

    Who said that you can't do both?  ;D But now my holiday is over so we'll see how much time I have to work on the project.

    I see you have pretty much wire jumpers. Couldn`t you awoid it? It`s not it`s looks bad, they are pain in the ass to solder. I really like interconnection cables... very nice. I usually use hot melted glue for that which ig good but looks so unprofessional.Your are just great.

    It's very hard to route a single layer PCB with all the shiftrgisters, buttons, leds etc without having to place a few wire jumpers if you are planing to etch it yourself. Yepp, they are a pain in the hole to solder... Thanks fore your comment on the interconnection cables, they fit perfectly on my modified SIL headers :)

    How things are going with the panel? any changes from the previous design? I usually change so many things if project took longer times. Maybe you could contact MTE (Traktorizer), and integrate some of his features. He is using some cool craphic displays, and I see you have a plenty of room for them.

    Glad you`re back, mate. ;)

    Nothing much have changed on the frontpanel, not fabricated yet. I have seen those Nokia LCD MTE uses, looks cool. Maybe I can implement one LCD for each FX section on the front, I think that there is enough room to place them next to the FX PCB's. Have to look into that soon.

    I love your wiring....its very very clean made.....cant await to see some updates of your baby

    Best Regards

    Thanks  8) I think I saw you had a grouporder for the nokia displays in the german part of the forum? I can't speak german, so it's just a guess, but have you any spare LCD's over? Maybe I'm interested of 3 displays.

  4. Update:

    One more FX pcb, the left mixer section and some cables have been built. Obligatory pictures:

    8 of total 12 PCB's made now. 1,5 PCB to CAD left.

    summary.jpg

    4 interconnection cables (drillbits, a really good investment over those HSS drills  :o )

    cable_drills.jpg

    Left mixer closeup

    left_mixer.jpg

    Left mixer botton close up:

    left_mixer_bot.jpg

    And now some porno  8)

    porno1.jpg

    porno2.jpg

  5. Hey Sasha. The headers is standard SIL 2.54mm goldplated headers. But i have pushed the pins through the plastic so they just poke out from one end of the plastic. You can see a closeup in some picture from the previous page. This is so i can solder and connect standard female headers on the pins from the solderside of the pcb. If i dont push the pins they will not be long enough. The cap is there to bulk the incoming 5V, then I have 0.1uF SM caps close to each shiftregister on the pcb.

  6. That is a lovely looking box mate..  Very nice.

    100g is about the same a 1N I think which is ideal as that's about the level of a light fingertip tap I reckon,  having tried them would you agree?  I'm using an MPD24 (Akai Control Thingy) and the force required to get a note on out of those pads is what I'm used to.

    Having searched around it looks like they do illuminated versions with the same operating force (I think the LTR/LTM range which are also silent which is great)..    Where did you get yours from? I can't find a supplier that will sell less than thousands of them at a time!

    Rgds, Stef

    Thanks, but it's long way from finished.. I would say that the 100g of force is a little bit more than a light fingertip tap. But it's the best button I could find for my box. I was also out after light force, primary for the transport buttons, to get fast reactions. I bought the buttons and caps from the company www.elfa.se , not cheap, but fast. You can hit the english flag in the top right corner. Search for 35-621-13 , thats the button with conductive rubber membrane that I use.

    /Wise

  7. Ok, got some work done today  :) Solderd the second transport PCB and tested borth together, first try success at once  ;D

    Here is a picture how I solved the interconnection between the boards. It's regular headers where i have puched the pins to one end. Then flat cable and female headers between the cards:

    header.jpg

    And here are the two boards with every LED turne on. Itäs a bit of mess to the core, but anyway (acrylic caps missing in hte top PCB) 8) 8) 8)

    2ggrtransportled.jpg

  8. Totaly agree with Sasha, boooooring wrok on the buttons. And when you got cramp after ten of 100 buttons, it's not so funny.. but.. when it's done it's do home made DIY  ;D Great feeling, and look nice to.

    Bye the way, I etched the other transport PCB tonight. Not a 100% result, but with the work of a scalpel it might be good enough to use it.

  9. Ok.. here we go again  :)

    After one year in sleep i thought i had to work on this again.. Guess what some call life came in the way.. well...

    Some work has been done lately. I got all the acrylic caps CNC drilled and laser cutted. And I have finished the spacers för the rectangular buttons. I promise it wont take a year again for an update  :o

    knappar1.jpg

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