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Hi ssp. no I don't go on BT anymore :) Often 'speak' with Si myself on Facebook, so you can hit me up there. I'm on there as me and also a Fan page. Or Twitter, or just about anywhere on the net really ;) As to price, I really have no idea. All I can say is that both boxes together cost well above £2000 and took, I guess, over 2000 man hours to build. But what they're worth..they're worth what someone is prepared to pay for them but the motor faders and panasonic faders in the live box are worth a fair bit just by themselves. Here's some more pictures, these are the best I can do in the low light conditions in the studio.

Ah :) Thanks Thorsten

Hi Request to sell my two midibox constructions (which were midibox of the month a long time ago), as I just don't get the use out of them anymore. One unit is a 2xLC The other is a controller for Live, or whatever else you may wich to configure it for, with 3 cores and is fully loaded. I've looked at 'Manage Classifieds' under my user name and it says I don't have permissino to do anything - maybe that's because I've not been here for a long time? I've no idea of price/value. I know what the component costs were all those years ago and I know how many man hours it took but that's about it. The 2XLC box is currently fully functional. The Three core live box is also fully functional but has an internal short somewhere which means that to get the cores to boot correctly you have to switch the unit on a couple of times before it all fires up correctly. Apart from that, it all works. Even if someone didn't want them as units as are, there's a LOT of components in there to re-use, though it would be a shame to break them up. Like any home-made piece of kit they do require maintenance to keep them operational but that comes cheap when compared to (say) sending a unit back to Mackie for repair. Yeah, I know, I'm nuts...but I'm building another midibox and I also need the room...

Actually...I've just had another thought :sorcerer: Obviously this depends on the wiring of the rocker tabs that I have - I will need to take a look. If I use 2 DINs on a rocker I can use one DIN per state - if din1 is energised (switch position 1) output aa, if din 2 is energised (switch position 2) output aa again. AFAIK the midi implementation of the s/w works on a momentary basis so I just need to detect the change of state . Then I need to read the position of the switch at mios boot and output a message that switches the VST from its loaded state to the current state on the front panel...I think.

Well, if there's another way of doing it I'm all ears :) Yes it is a workaround as I'm not aware of another way of doing it. AINs have to be in the system anyway - as I mentioned I'm using a full set of Hammond drawbars, which have to be read with AINs.

Cool, cool. That's pretty much what I mean. So there should be no problem with the AIN reading it afaik?? I noted Thorsten's comment re type of resistor and temperature tolerance levels which I imagine will be the same for an input to give consistent voltage levels, although at the code level I can program for a range of values for each switch as the voltage range allowed for each switch will depends on the number of switches attached to the ladder - i.e. the fewer switches the wider the allowed range can be.

It's really simple - an analogue input measures voltages between 0 and 5 spread across a potentiometer - usually 10K. That is inifinitely variable and then scanned to the bit depth of the system. Now imagine that there isn't a potentiometer there but a potential divider (i.e. a series of resistors). All an AIN does is measure voltage. Now if you have 4 rocker tabs as on the right hand side of a B3 all you do is split the voltage across 4 resistors (each resistor is switched in with the corresponding switch and each resistor is a different value so that each combination of switch positions outputs a unique voltage), so each switch being switched on outputs a different voltage. There's more to the code than I put in my example - 4 switches on 1 AIN will give (I think) 9 different voltage combinations including all off. A position selector is a similar idea but in that instance only 1 position can be switched on at any one time so the code is a little simpler as in my example from before.

After quite a while from looking at midibox I'm back making a new project. I hope this is in the right section because this time it isn't a HUI but a B4/ VB3 type controller. I see things have changed quite a lot since I biult my boxes on the PIC platform and due to the number of analogue inputs needed (I@m using genuine hammond drawbars) I'm considering going the MIOS 32 route. Anyway, my question is this, w.r.t organ rocker switches (i.e. they latch on and off) and position switches (6 position vibrato chorus selector and 3 position leslie switch). Now I know from when I created my midiboxes before that DINs only work with momentary switches so my thought is that for latching switches I need to measure voltage and therefore use analogue inputs - now 1 switch on one AIN should be easy - 5v = on 0v = off. My question is this, I think it should be do-able but maybe someone else could confirm it? For a 6 position switch (or a 3 position switch...or 4 x rocker tabs with a resistor matrix for percussion) could I link between the terminals with resistors so that each position ouputs a different voltage then read the switch (or group of switches) with 1 x AIN input? Coding along the following lines would be required for a 3 position switch: If input = aa then output = zz If input = bb then output = yy If input = cc then output = xx Cheers fellas :)

All the pics are on the photobucket link. no idea how I'd attach them to old posts. I don't have my old login details anyway and can't do a password request as I no longer have the same email.

Just popped back in - changing some LC code and found all these photos on the same DVD: Photobucket

Hi Sorry I've not been around for a while. Is it the 2xLC box you're interested in or the 3xCore 64E and 64 box? Hopefully my domain is sorted again and I'll be able to put the pics up if I can find the backup DVD. If not then I'll put them on rapidshare or something for you to download. I've not used the domain email for a very long time - I got fed up with spam and idiots I was getting 400+ emails a day and it became to difficult to filter out the genuine ones. People in the music industry know how to get hold of me so it hasn't posed too much of a problem in that respect... Incidentally, if anyone is interested I have a spare front panel for the 3x box - maybe this should go in the other forum but I thought I'd mention it here.

:) Cheers I will get the build pictures back up as soon as I can - I'm having problems with the transfer of my domain to a new registrar at the moment - they accidentally cancelled the process on the first attempt.

Pics will be back up shortly - I'm just in the process of moving my web hosting

Yes the touchpad works perfectly OK. The only thing that doesn't seem to work is 'tap' mode like most modern touchpads do where you can hold the cursor in one position and quickly tap on the pad in another position to make the cursor 'zip'. In answer to the next question....no there are no heat issues, we're hardly talking 90kW VSDs here and it's all perfecetly safe. I could have spent an age making the wiring really neat but there isn't too much of an advantage in doing so - it was a mammoth task as it was getting the two boxes finished in parallel in 14 months and I'd rather get the project on to the next stage which is preparing all of the music for playing live and practicing rather than being anal about the neatness of the wiring ;)

Yes I prefer sliders for that too - also I find it better for moving more than 2 at the same time with any accuracy. You are quite right about the A/B mapping in Ableton - only 1 controller is used. It wasn't a planning error however as I wanted the option of two buttons which can be acheived with some coding or max jiggery pokery. Of course it also gives me the option of just using 1 button and then having 1 spare for something else - one idea has been to use it to switch between the send sliders and a second 'virtual' bank of sliders, although then the inital point of getting as much on the front panel as possible to keep everything completely visual and transparent would be lost. The touchpads are very reasonably priced ones from Voti. I found that to get them to mount flat with enough firmness to be able to press the buttons you need to make a metal bracket which sits underneath them - I just used some sheet steel with 2 mounting holes drilled and then used some very large washers on the screws to hold it all together firmly.