tel3
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Posts posted by tel3
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I think I have pretty much worn out the continuity setting on my multimeter doing stuff like that! :)
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Man, all this gets me sooo excited about building an SEQ!! I can hardly wait! ;D TK, You are the man! ;) Now if I can just focus on getting my SID box done...
-tel3
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Hi Chris! :)
How you connect them depends on a few things. What kind of power supply are you using first of all? What boards are you using? How many Core and SID modules are you using in your SID box?
-tel3
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bucky lastard!
Thank You! I think? ;D
Seriously though, if you want something different than they offer on their site, just send them an e-mail and ask them. You never know, they might have what you want. That's what I did at least.
-tel3
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i couldn't see the negative red 40x2 you sure it's them that did it?
Yep, I'm sure! I sent them an e-mail asking if they have the 40X2 in any other colors than just the usual green/yellow(which was all they had on their website at the time) and the guy there told me they had one 40X2 in the negative red model that someone had "special ordered" 2 of and only bought one, Or something like that...So, I guess I got lucky! ;D
-tel3
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Yeah, That sucks man. Green with a red filter sounds cool though. Maybe I'll try that when I build my MIDIbox SEQ. I bought the same negative red LCD from them(Crystalfontz) in a 40X2 size for my MIDIbox FM also... :(
-tel3
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That's cool man, whatever works! ;)
It looks like you have the same LCD as me, a 20X2 negative red from Crystalfontz? I got that one because it looked in the picture like the characters were red on a blacked out background. But, when I actually hooked it up, it looked nothing like the pictures on their website! Needless to say I was a little disappointed. :(
-tel3
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Hey, That's pretty sweet looking! You put the tubing on there right?
-tel3
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Hey Alex,
There are some really nice colour-coded wires I can scavenge from the C64s, so I should be able to keep track of what's going to where.I used the wires from the C64 keyboard too! Depending on when you 64 was built, it may have a connector with the crimp pins already on the connector side. You can push the little metal tab in through the little openings on the C64's keyboard connector, pull out the wire with the pins attached and re-use the wires. ;) That's what I did at least!! Just an idea...
-tel3
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Hi toneburst!
Incidentally, the hardest thing about making the PSU was actually desoldering the original C64 power socket and switch.Have you tried desoldering with some desoldering braid? It works pretty good for me. The only thing is you have to be careful about how hot the parts you are trying to desolder get while letting the copper braid "suck up" all of the solder. Definitley worth a try if you haven't already.
-tel3
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Hi Mr.modnaR!
it would work, but you'd have to place a cap at the end of each length of wire. if you have enough caps i guess that might be ok.Yeah, I thought that might be what I would have to do...
the only possible problem i can see with doing it that way, is that each cap has to 'fill up' with charge when you turn it on, and the resulting current draw may be too high for the 7805.I guess the only thing I can do is to try it? ;) I would think the worst that could happen is the 7805 would get very hot and possibly fry? Or, It just won't work? ;D
If it comes down to it, I'll just do it the way TK designed it! I'm just not sure how to chain the modules together while using the crimp pin type connectors I like so much that will only fit one wire in them?? How do some of you guys do it?
Thanks for your help peeps! And sorry for jack'n your thread toneburst!!! (edit:Oops not carsten!)
-tel3
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You are supposed to put a cap on the end of the chain to cut down on the digital noise
Yeah, I was planning on putting it in later on when I make up all of my wires with their connectors and such. I didn't give that part enough thought It seems. :( I guess it might not work the same with the 5v going out separately to each board huh?
-tel3
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Oh crap! :( I just noticed after reading over my last post that I made a mistake on my board. Grrrrr! >:(
On this part:
I would have needed to use a 16pin DIL pin header to send 5v to the Core and SID boards individually! Oh well, I guess I can still fix it...The 8pin DIL jumper on the bottom right is where the Core and SID boards will get their 5v from individually(not chained from board to board as on the original schematic).By the way, Does anyone see a problem in not chaining them as in the Optimized PSU schematic and sending each one out separately anyway? It seemed like a good idea to me.
-tel3
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Hey Carsten, I took a few pics of my PSU board for you to check out. These pics were taken with my motorola RAZR mobile phone so don't expect too much from them...
Some of you may notice that there are quite a few more jumper pins on my board than the original schematic drawing has. :) I'll explain...
In the top pic there is a row of 4 SIL pins on the bottom left(kinda difficult to see) of the board. This is where my 7pin DIN plug for the C64 PSU and the on/off switch connect to by means of a female connector w/crimp pins. The 8pin DIL jumper on the bottom right is where the Core and SID boards will get their 5v from individually(not chained from board to board as on the original schematic). The next 3pin SIL jumper up from that one is for the C64 power indicator LED. And the last 4pin SIL jumper in the top right is where I will send out the 14v to the SID modules individually as described before. ;)
I'm not sure if any of this will help you or not Carsten, but I dunno?
Let me know what you guys think of my PSU board too... ;D
-tel3
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Hello toneburst! I have recently completed my Optimized(not sure if I spelled that correctly) PSU board too and as you were, I was pretty excited to see it working as well!
As for the correct jumper to connect to, If you look at the page dedicated to the Core board, http://ucapps.de/mbhp_core.html here you will find a section describing the functions of all the jumpers on the Core module. It explains everything you will need to know about using J1 or J2 as the 5v input just as altitude explained. It helped me a lot and maybe it can give you some insight as well?
Hope that helps!
-tel3
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thanks gang. i barely have time to solder and practice, so i'll most likely wait and see what V2 has going on.
Yea, that's your best bet to wait for SIDv2 as it is probably not all that far off, and according to the preliminary wishlist of features and recent talk on the forum, a 6 SID setup(x8 even!) will most likely be possible with the new PIC18F4620. (from what I can tell at least)
-tel3
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Radio Wack
That's the best one yet, and the most fitting...
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O.K. So, I've collected all the parts for the optimized PSU circuit and have figured out the placement of components on the board I'll be using! Yay! ;D I'm getting excited!!! Tonight I will assemble my PSU board and I'll report back when I have it completed. ;)
-tel3
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Many people say there are definite +'s and -'s with both SID versions. just search around the forum and the internet and you will find many explanations on this topic.
I am building a Quad-SID box using both 6581(2) and 8580(2). I'm not quite finished yet though. I will try to give you my thoughts on using both as soon as I finish it...
-tel3
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"RadSnack" huh, I always called 'em "RatShack" HeHeHe
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Some of the reviews I was finding online about it mention a small spark when the connection is made. I don't know about you, but I don't want to be soldering ICs with something which sparks.
Yea, the guy at my local electronics shop said that the so-called "Cold Heat" irons are only good for things that are not static sensative(ESD) like cables and such because the way they work is by "arc-ing" to the part being soldered, activating the iron! So, I wouldn't have much use for it personally...
- Use ONLY distilled water on your soldering sponge. Using tap water (or bottled, or anything else) will cause minerals to build up, damaging the tip.That's an excellent tip! I didn't know that. I'll have to try it next time I solder...Thanks c0nsumer
-tel3
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Is it absolutly necessary to remove/not stuff the 7805's in the Core? Or, can they be left in? (referring to them in the optimized PSU context)
Well, anyone??
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Is it absolutly necessary to remove/not stuff the 7805's in the Core? Or, can they be left in? (referring to them in the optimized PSU context)
It would be more convenient to have 'em in there in case I temporarily need a Core board for another project! ;)
-tel3
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Dudes, I think the OP bailed out already
Yeah, thanks alot stryd_one...Good going man.
HeHeHe Just playing!
-tel3
40x2 LCD hole dimensions?
in Parts Questions
Posted
I would think it is a standard dimension like on others of the same size, but I'm not totally sure. You could compare data sheets with another brand of the same size and maybe figure it out that way? Or, If you already have the display you could measure it out. It may be hard to get it totally accurate though...
Somewhat obvious info but it might help?
-tel3