tel3
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Posts posted by tel3
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yes they do
I checked the info on SmashTV's page and got an answer. :-[
Yeah, I always seem to find an answer soon after I post my questions for some reason? I guess I should try a little harder to find the answer before I make a post... ;)
-tel3
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Bypass caps go on the solder side between the pins of the IC's 5v input and ground.
OK, I get it...
I am using the latest SmashTV boards. Does anyone know if they already have the bypass caps in the design?
-tel3
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So, I do just put a jumper wire across the in and out lines?
Also, What exactly are these "bypass caps" and where do they go??
Should I change C5 from a 2200uF cap to a 1000uf cap?
-tel3
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Alright, Just so I am totally clear on this...
Where the Optimized PSU.pdf talks about not stuffing the voltage regs and shorting across the input and output line(number 3) of the where the v reg goes and it says "1000uf is ok", that is where I put the 1000uf caps in place of the voltage regs(across the in and out lines) right?? To me it looks as if you would just put jumper wire there? ???
-tel3
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Sick man, Very sick!! That's one of the baddest MIDIbox controllers I have seen yet. Killer job on the layout too!
Good job
-tel3
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That's $14.14, just waiting for you, if you can actually do it. I think you're either a) trawling or b) delusional...and if you really can do it, I think you might be autistic!
Dude, you don't need that many buttons. Save yourself some time and money and effort and rethink your project. Or just ignore me
Dude, That's kinda harsh!!!
-tel3
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Thanks everyone for the info. I realized after I made the post that I can probably use the same types as specified in the parts lists for the modules using the same values, being that they will be used in very much the same manner...Right??
Also, do the bypass caps go in place of the voltage regs, or in addition to them?
(apologies for the thread hijack tel3)No prob, your questions will help me as well!
-tel3
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I must be somewhat of a geek?!?!
That's pretty amusing!
-tel3
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Hey stryd_one, That's a cool piece you found...
-tel3
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I think Tel3's talking about this:
Yep, That's it!!
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I'm going to build the optimized PSU circuit for my Quad-SID and I am unsure of what type of 100nf and 330nf caps to get? (Mylar/Polystyrene, Ceramic, etc.) Does it even matter?
Thanks!
-tel3
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Tricky Trickelsby!!
Now that's pretty darn innovative! A killer idea for Midiboxers on a budget.
-tel3
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Does anybody know where I can find out more about cutting holes, especially non-cirular ones, in my aluminum chassis?
I don't know if you have seem 'em or not but, Mouser sells these little tools for "punching out" square holes in aluminum and such. They are made in several different sizes(for different size holes of course). They have ones for circular holes too. I believe they are made by a company called Greenlee and also Deltron as well.
Hope that helps!
-tel3
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People still make jungle?
Don't they call it "Drum and Bass" now?!?! HeHeHe ;D
-tel3
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Thank you. Too bad the board is wrong. Despite triple-checking things, I somehow got the pinning of the switches off by 90°. It's fixable, but still frustrating.
Man, that sucks...Sorry to hear it! I sure couldn't tell.
-tel3
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Glad to see you are back! ;)
Hope you feel better too!
-tel3 8)
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c0nsumer,
As far as the Dremel chucks, yeah... The finger chuck is a lot more sloppy.I didn't realize that. That's good to know because I've been using one of those myself. :)
Also, your SID-NUXX front panel PCB looks very nice...Good work!! ;)
-tel3
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Right on, I getcha...
Yeah, I'm a total newb when it comes to milling anything! I really wasn't even sure what Z axis meant, but now I get it... ;)
-tel3
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c0nsumer, did you look at their mill accessories page? I think maybe it's in there...I haven't looked at their page in a while though.
-tel3
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Runout is generally dependent on the bearings and such in the motor / chuck itself. As the tool you linked to requires a dremel, one should get the same amount of runout with a dremel drill press or the tool you linked to.
Oh, I get it! I was mainly more comparing the slop of the Dremel drill press with the one I linked to.
It'd be better if it also had a Z axis, thoughI may be wrong but, I believe they offer the Z axis as an add-on?
-tel3
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-And thanks tel3 for that link! That's some weird looking stuff they make.
No Prob! ;)
I also question the amount of runout (wobble) that many drill presses have. The Dremel has a lot less, so holes are more accurate and bits are far less likely to break.That's the main reason I recommended the "Drill Press Plus" from the above link. That thing is rock solid stable and has no noticeable slop/wobble that I can tell...NONE!
-tel3
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Where did you get the drill press for dremell? That is sweet look'n I did not know that it exist.
Hey docbrown, if you are interested in a drill press for a dremel you should check out this place: http://vanda-layindustries.com/ I picked up their "Drill Press Plus" and I am very happy with it. It is very beefy, and much more stable than any of the dremel made drill presses, making it much more capable of very precise work like PCB drilling and such. It's made from billet aluminum and will probably last forever!
They also make a nice little milling machine type attachment for dremels that can be used for many different projects.
Check 'em out before looking at the dremel stuff. They cost about twice as much than the Dremel brand but IMHO, well worth the added cost.
-tel3
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I've been wondering myself how that is done!
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Hey, That's really not all that bad for a complete set of new-old-stock YMF262(1) and YAC512(2) delivered!!!
If I didn't already get a few sets for myself at a similar price, I'd order a set or two.
Anyone interested in making the FM box should consider this offer!
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WTF???