stefstabilizer

It's a controller for Ableton... Info on my blog. There's an overview of the vague plan in that list of posts. Stef

::) Scratch that.. I've used MIOS studio to upload the sample MIDIbox64 app and am getting those mad CC messages that you are supposed to! ;D Very happy that I've not blown it this early in the game... Now to put the rest together! 8)

Hi, Just powered on my newly Built R4D Smash Core (with MIOS onboard) and when I power on I get one sysex message then nada. 00 F0 00 00 7E 40 00 01 F7 According to the docs this seems to be what to expect as there is MIOS onboard already so it's just waiting for an app but I was wondering if there was any way to test before hand? Stef

Hi All, Thanks for the little tips.. I have updated my PCB plan again after chatting to my mate who is doing the actual etching as he suggested making the pads a bit bigger for the PCB mount switches and using square pads for the connectors I plan to use. v3 Of My PCBs Any comments / constructive criticism would be most welcome of course! I'm planning to start soldering the core kit tonight.. Wish me luck! ;)

Thanks TK.. I'll amend the plans accordingly. I think I got the "un-used must be grounded" mantra stuck in my head for the DINs :-) Oh, And thanks for the midibox "thing" in general :-)

Thanks for taking the time to look. Much appreciated. So, If I get you right.. All the grounds on the DINs and DOUT PCBs can be joined up as they are connected to a common ground on the Core anyway? Updated the PDF.. You can see it here Forgot to mention that these are going to be separate PCBs BTW.. The AIN PCBs on the right are going to be mounted vertically. Stef

Hi All, Just got back to the UK and recovered from my Jet Lag and thought I'd take this moment to ask for some second opinions on my PCB layouts. Never done them before so forgive any schoolboy errors! Basically I'd love it if someone could make sure my LEDs in the switches are getting the electrickery in the right direction ;D and that the pots are laid out in the correct "star" fashion as recommended by TK.. ??? The latter was an issue as my design is based on rows of three pots.. tricky to get laid out in the 8 per row fashion :-) I've added notes to the PDF and there is a layout scheme of what goes on inside the illuminated buttons I've bought so hopefully there's enough info there. You can get the PDF here and you can read some background etc on my blog here.

Re the buttons... I've not actually built the box so have no idea how well they will hold up. They certainly have a tougher feel compared to the RJS buttons.. Bigger, chunkier you know but doesn't mean they'll survive extended use. I've bought a lot more than I need though because of the failure issue. Stef

Oops I forgot about that side of it.. I'm in the UK so I got a friend who lives out there to buy them for me and mail them over. I got the scifi sound effect kit which is essentially a ten note step sequencer and the optical theremin.. Both make very wonky but kinda quirky noises... Nothing that could described as nice though ;-)

I went the "kit first" route to get my practice in using some of these kits... http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/products.asp?dept=1219 The upside is the end result is a wonky noise toy as well and you being able to solder :-) As far as etching boards for the buttons etc. I would ask around friends and family a bit as I thought I would never find anyone then a friend casually mentioned that he makes his own guitar pedals and etches his own boards... Bingo! Bottle of wine and some cash for parts later and I'll have my buttons and pot boards etched so I reckon it's worth asking around a bit more.. Maybe ask in you local remote control model shop or car customisation shop if they know of anyone who might do it. I asked in mine and they did know someone who would etch me boards but I found out about my friends secret hobby ;-) Rgds, Stef

The buttons are a latching type which may be what you are after but I think momentary give you more flexibilty as you can program the box to turn momentary into toggle type buttons so you can change your mind once you've built it! I bought these illuminated buttons from rapid.. http://www.rapidonline.com/productinfo.aspx?tier1=Electronic+Components&tier2=Switches&tier3=Keyboard+Switches&tier4=Non-RoHS+Illuminated+PCB+keyboard+switches&moduleno=77016 They are pretty nice feeling as well, clicky though, and I have a photo of one lit up on my blog... http://www.stefangoodchild.com and they are only a few pence more than your current choice. Order code 77-3130 with a blue LED... They are PCB mount but that shouldn't be a problem.. I've got a preliminary layout for a block of 4 in a row if you are interested.. I'll be posting it soon anyway to get some of the bigger brains on here to give it the once over anyway to make sure I'm right before I get my friend to etch my boards for me :-) They are square though so unless you are shit hot with cutting holes you would be stuck with getting a panel made but I priced one from Schaffer and for my layout which is pretty complicated it was only 30 euros which is amazing really for a custom panel.

Having to replace buttons after a month or two is pretty rubbish.. I'll keep you updated... I've added a post to my blog about them with a photo of one lit up... I'll be adding Midibox news as and when there if anyone is interested which I hope to tidy up and wiki it once the box is complete. http://www.stefangoodchild.com Later, Stef

Now that is handy! Thank you... I think MIDI Clock is what I'm after rather than timecode.

Hi All, Just ordered my kits from Smash and am looking forward to building the thing (and re-ordering the bits I forgot about being a bit of a plank) but while I wait for the delivery I thought I'd start looking at the application side of things and one of the things I can't find any mention of anywhere in the code examples is reading midi time code in terms of bars and beats. It must be able to be done for the LC timecode display but what I'm after is to create a "visual click" using up to 6 LEDs on the DOUT module. Ie stepping through each LED on each beat and starting back at LED one on each bar. 6 LEDs should enable most time sigs, or compounds of.. Any clues on where to start or links to where I can read up on this particular requirement? Laters, Stef

I've hardly started on the programming side but the bit where you turn on the LED.. -> MIOS_DOUT_PinSet(pin, 1); You don't seem to have set the 'pin' variable from the note number?

I've decided to go for much cheaper buttons... These are heavier to press (2N instead of the 1N of the pricey small ones from RJS) but much cheaper... Also about twice the size (15mmx15mm) so the heavy press shouldn't be too much bother once it's mounted in something heavy. Quite clicky but very positive and in a club I doubt you'd hear anything :-) Rapid Online They sent me a sample of the blue LED ones and they light up really nice and the cap of item 77-3130 comes apart so you can put legends printed on acetate in there which is handy. Oh.. And they are 49p each! ;D

Ahh, I've been sent the red and green LEDs with the white diffuser.. I'll try and photograph them next week for you. Stef

Didier, I think they only come in Red, Green and Yellow.. I got the red and the green through as samples. I'll try to set something up and post it here next week. White would be lovely though.. Have you been sent samples yourself? They sent me five different button types and these just stood out a mile as the best feel for this purpose. In terms of discount they drop the price at 150 and at 250 units but can't remember (i'm on a different computer) what that discount was. I'm going to get some with green LEDs I think to go with the monome vibe :-) And yep, a midibox group buy would be a great idea. I have a friend doing a box as well so that's at least three of us. Stef

I've Found Some!!!! Expensive - £2.20 each :o - But got sent a sample and they feel absolutely lovely.. illuminated in either Red Green or Yellow They have a tact like feel but with no "pop" and mounted they can be actuated with a solid tap, rather than a heavy press.. http://www.rjselectronics.com/pages/detail-product.php?parentID=21&pageNo=8 Minimum order of 50 but thats fine for my project. They are pretty tiny but big enough and having tried the sample I'm now leaning towards setting up a monome style grid with additional knobs and some additional buttons for navigation... All I have to do now is save up the money! ;D Thanks for all your advice on the swtiches.. What a great forum.. I'm looking forward to building my box but also becoming part of this friendly community. Rgds, Stef

I know exactly what you mean :-) I have some soft buttons here that require something like 5mm of throw before they engage! Useless. Wise's suggestion have a 1mm throw which if the 1N force is light enough would be fine. Rgds, Stef

That is a lovely looking box mate.. Very nice. 100g is about the same a 1N I think which is ideal as that's about the level of a light fingertip tap I reckon, having tried them would you agree? I'm using an MPD24 (Akai Control Thingy) and the force required to get a note on out of those pads is what I'm used to. Having searched around it looks like they do illuminated versions with the same operating force (I think the LTR/LTM range which are also silent which is great).. Where did you get yours from? I can't find a supplier that will sell less than thousands of them at a time! Rgds, Stef

http://www.mec.dk/?id=655 Another option from Mec.

Hello All, First post and still in the planning stage but have a question for the assembled genii.. I've been looking at buttons for my upcoming MidiBox and every sample I've been sent from suppliers feel very heavy to engage. (Mec and Diptronics Tact switches) I'm looking for a lighter touch button (ideally with an LED but am not fussed if the right button appears) that is more in line with the feel of a laptop keyboard in terms of how hard it has to be pressed to engage the switch to enable faster and more musical timings (16ths at 130bpm kinda fast) Taking an old keyboard apart isn't an option as the membrane would be pretty impossible to layout in a new way so I live in hope of a stand alone PDB mount switch that requires less that 1N to engage. Is there such a thing that anyone has heard of? Rgds, Stef