wicked1
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Posts posted by wicked1
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To further clarify how I figured out all of my DIN's and DOUT's what I did is print out my panel layout. Then as I soldered my buttons and led's I wrote down on the printed panel layout what each button and led connected to. The main ones like the encoders and general purpose buttons were the same as in TK's setup file. I had to change some things for the others. So, basically, next to each button on my printed sheet I have something like 2/3 in black ink, and 1/4 in red ink. That tells me that that button connects to shift register 2, pin 3, and the led connects to SR1, pin 4. Then I made the appropriate change in the setup.asm file.
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Here's my sequencer. The panel is NOT professional! I made all of my buttons, so they are all a little different, and it was my first time using PCB mount components and none of them are straight. I just threw it all together in a box so I could bring it to a friends house and play around w/ it for a while. I can't do anything about the uneven buttons now, but I will be building a much better front panel and a nice case for it.
scroll down to the bottom of the page
The four buttons on the very right of it are the group select buttons. I'm building the 4x16 button matrix, and those 4 group select buttons will be moved onto that panel.
I don't have any good photos of how I did the wiring. For everything on the panel I used verowire which was great! it certainly made the job a lot easier. I connected all of the buttons w/ a common ground, and all of the led's w/ a common ground (actually, it's by side, so all the buttons on the left share one ground, all the buttons on the right share one ground, etc...)
The wiring for the LED's is all on the front, under the frosted acrylic, so you can't see it. Basically, I used the verowire to connect all the led's to 8 pin headers, which go through to the back of the panel. Then I use the ribbon cable to connect those headers to the douts.
My past experience was w/ building my modular synth, and this sequencer looked easy in comparison. There wasn't a lot of complex thought involved in building the sequencer but man... that was a lot of wires to solder and keep track of! It ended up taking a lot longer than I thought it would. Do it right the first time, because you won't want to build another control surface!
As for the software, it was actually quite easy. The setup.asm files have all the options available. I think I started w/ TK's. I just had to change which register and pins certain buttons and led's were connected to. Your wiring will be different than mine, so my file won't do you any good. You just have to be able to count to make the changes :).
after that, you have to compile the software, which was really easy too. Just read this page
http://www.ucapps.de/howto_tools_mpasm.html
And yes, you'll need another dout
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I've got an MPC that I use to sequence things now. It will record CC's.
Can I run two sequencers together and control one synth with them?
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elpy,
I just finished my sequencer. What do you want to know?
Well... It isn't finished. It's all wired up and functional and has a temporary acrylic panel.
I'm having so much fun using it, I don't know when I'll build its case and a proper front panel.
I'll try to add some photos to my synth diy website tomorrow. Compared to what a lot of the people here are doing, it doesn't look good at all, but it works!
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Thanks! that explains it.
If that is really how few people have made sequencers, then all I have to say is that a LOT of people are missing out on the best step sequencer ever designed!!
Thanks for all of your hard work. As soon as I'm finished dumping money into my build, I'll be sure to make a donation.
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Hello,
I'm trying to record a filter change in real time. I have the track set up, and it is controlling the filter. I can edit each step individually and have it control the filter, but I'd like to record it in real time. The midi in light does light up as I twist the filter knob, but it isn't recording any changes.
I set up a track just for this CC, I go to the record page, I hit play and start twisting the knob.
Am I missing something?
I've haven't had a keyboard plugged into the sequencer yet. I'm not sure if it would record regular notes or not. Maybe that is something I should check.
I'm surprised there isn't a user group of some sort for the sequencer.. how many of them do you think have been made?
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Thanks,
That fixed it.
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I'm having some trouble w/ my trigger layer LED's. When I select A, nothing is lit, when I select B, A is lit, and when I select C, B is lit. I've checked my wiring, and it is fine. The way I'm trying to configure this SR is..
0 -play
1 -pause
2 -Stop
3 -A
4 -B
5 -C
6 and 7 are the 1-16 17-32 led's
Everything works fine except for the trigger layer.
I tested all of the wiring w/ my multimeter, and it checked out ok
So, just as a test, I switched it so that
0 -A (play led on my panel)
1 -B (pause led)
2 -C (stop led)
3 -play
4 -pause
5 -stop
6 and 7 are the 1-16 17-32 led's
and have the same results. the A button lights up when I press play. The play button does not light when I press A, Play lights when I press B and pause lights when I press C
This is the section of my ASM file
;; OPTIONAL! see CHANGELOG.txt
DOUT_ENTRY TMP4, 5, 5, 3 ; Triger Layer A LED
DOUT_ENTRY TMP4, 6, 5, 4 ; Triger Layer B LED
DOUT_ENTRY TMP4, 7, 5, 5 ; Triger Layer C LED
;; OPTIONAL! see CHANGELOG.txt
DOUT_ENTRY TMP5, 0, 5, 0 ; Play LED
DOUT_ENTRY TMP5, 1, 5, 2 ; Stop LED
DOUT_ENTRY TMP5, 2, 5, 1 ; Pause LED
;; OPTIONAL! see CHANGELOG.txt
DOUT_ENTRY TMP5, 3, 5, 6 ; Step 1-16 displayed
DOUT_ENTRY TMP5, 4, 5, 7 ; Step 17-31 displayed
Thanks for any help
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Does the aout module process the "glide" function? if I set 2 steps to glide, will the aout increase or decrease the voltage accordingly, or does it ignore the glide and just jump from one voltage to the next?
I'll have the aout finished soon enough to find out for myslef, but I've been having so much fun w/ the sequencer and my Novation Nova w/ the glide function, that I'd really like to see it work on my modular. The primary reason I built the seq was to control my modular.
For some reason I'm doubting it will do it, but I just thought I'd ask.
thanks!
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seq. will be outside of the synth cabinet. But this way I only have to run 5 or maybe 13 wires from the sequencer to the synth. A monitor cable will work nicely. I can have the data, power, and triggers go through it.
Where should I start topics about the aout?
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Is there any problem running the aout module on +/- 15 volts? I was thinking of building it as a module in my synth cabinet and running it off the synth power supply.
Thanks
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how big are these knobs? I can't find the specs.
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not yet. Work got really busy and put my hobby on hold.
I've got one din, one dout, one bankstickx8 completed, and the aout partially stuffed.
I'll try messing w/ density and other drivers in the next batch. I need to print up more din and dout pcb's.
Oh, my verowire finally made it here, too, so I have no excuse not to start on the front panel soon. That part scares me.. I just sit and stare at the parts for it :) I've done more complex panels, but it's always been panel mount. Im sure it will go together easily once I just jump in and start soldering.
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The problem there is that I need to print an entire 8.5x11 inch sheet at a time. I use press-n-peel blue paper, which isn't cheap, so I do PCB's in batches.
I did print a test from eagle, and the traces still touch. It is better, but one of the traces is still touching. We talked about this in chat for a while. I think I need to find different drivers for my printer, and work with the settings a little.
I got the aout PCB working by editing the traces in photoshop. I'll figure out whats up w/ my printer next time I print a board w/ close traces.
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Thanks a lot! those are great ideas. I don't know why I didn't think to simply 'edit' the copper clad after I iron it on, rather than editing it in photoshop first!
This printer is dedicated to printing PCB's so I could probably open it up and unplug the fuser.
thanks for the ideas on the inexpensive (or free) transfer paper.
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I've got a question for TK. I was looking at your panel wiring for the din's, and how you have it right on the front panel board. I notice you have the resistors next to each encoder and button. What I'm wondering is how you got all those to the ground. Did you just run a separate ground bus as well as a 5v bus down each row of encoders/buttons? Maybe since there are a lot of LED's in that area, you needed the ground in that area anyway.
I'm thinking that it is a great idea to just build it right there on the front panel proto board, because I really don't like drilling the hundreds of holes when I print PCB's.
Did you find this was a good solution, or if you did it again, would you use the dout and din PCB's?
thanks!
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I know.. I just have to figure out how the inkjet toner transfer works. Inkjets are just water soluble ink. Laserjets are sort of plastic that gets melted to the paper.. which is why you can re-melt it and have it stick to the copper.
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No, actually, I haven't tried to iron this layout onto copper yet. I will try to get to it later today.
But, when printing the default PCB, the traces and pads did touch, just on the printout. I edited it a little so that there is a small gap when I print it, but it is VERY close. In the past, I've had traces spread when I heat them to do the transfer. Maybe I'm just using too hot an iron or too much pressure or something. I'll work with it. My only issue w/ trial and error is that I need to print an entire page of PCB's at once, or Im wasting a bunch of that blue toner transfer paper. (I haven't tried using standard transparency paper yet.. maybe I should try that too)
I was just surprised that I didn't find more topics about the same issue, as this printer was recommended for toner transfer. I was hoping a bunch of people would say "yeah I had the same thing happen and this is how I fixed it" but I guess Im the only one doing it this way w/ a 300dpi printer.
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Im using toner transfer, and not photo transfer. Correct me if I'm wrong, but for this method, I think I have to use a laser printer.
If I have no other choice, I suppose I could get a photo transfer setup.. but then it might be cheaper to just get a pre made pcb shipped from europe.
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HI, I asked this once before, and the problem is better, but still not working.
The traces on the aout PCB are so close together that they run into each other when I print it. I was told to increase the resolution of my printer, so I have put it to it's max, which is only 300dpi. It's a laserjet 4l, which is what people on many many electronics forums and mailing lists have recommended. (something about older laser printers putting down more toner for better transfers).
so, I export from Eagle at 300dpi and put into photoshop to invert and do any final cleanup, then print at 300dpi
So, does EVERYONE in the midibox community have a newer printer for printing PCB's or am I still missing something else?
Basically, the bottom section of the board, the pads are running into the traces next to them or below them.
I've photoshopped it as much as I can to try to make the traces smaller, or move pads a little when possible. I worked on it for an hour last night, and while it now prints ok (barely) I really doubt the traces will still be separate once I iron it to the copper clad, and the traces spread a little from the heat.
I can't be the only one with this problem, unless I am missing something.
I print PCB's all the time for my modular synth, and this is the first time I've run into this problem (which is why I say I can't be the only one w/ this issue)
Thanks for any help
Also, feel free to move this topic if it fits somewhere else. I couldn't really find a good forum to post a question about the aout.
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the two images are sort of unfair, as the alternate design has fancy buttons and knobs and colored LED's in the image.. that makes people subconsciously like it more :)
I put my vote in. Both are great, tho.
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What's the HPGL trick? I'm quite proficient in AutoCAD, and would be happy to help out.
My girlfriend is an architect (for when I run into something I dont know how to do), and I do all my panel layout (and garden and landscaping layout, and home renovation layout, and just about everything I do layout) in autocad.
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I ordered all of the IC's from maxim for the aout module. I had heard a lot of things in this forum about it taking weeks, if not months to receive the parts, and of different parts arriving weeks apart from each other.
I placed an order a couple of days ago, and ALL of my IC's arrived today. Fastest delivery out of any of the components I have ordered so far.
Very pleased w/ the service.
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We were talking in chat about how it's getting hard to find good info while searching the forums, because the same basic questions get asked again and again, and the good info has gotten burred.
How about, as we noobs are searching the forums and find really helpful info, we make a note of it, or post it here or something, so we can have a helpful links section for noobs in the wiki. The experienced builders probably have a hard time figuring out what is actually helpful to the people who are new to this.
I know for me, I consult for computers, and so often a client asks me a really basic question, and I can't come up w/ the answer, when really it's the most simple thing in the world. I don't even think of it as an answer, because I figure everyone must know that!!
This probably isn't the best place for this post, because it probably takes the noobies a long time before they come out of their specific build topic in the forum and start reading topics like the documentation project.
Pics of work in progress...
in MIDIbox SEQ
Posted
If you know of any tutorials for screen printing panels, could you please post them? I'd love to try it sometime.
thanks