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pat_00

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Posts posted by pat_00

  1. 13 hours ago, knochenfabrik said:

    @pat_00@CJ55 I also have the same issue but when NG is loaded the LEDs light up just fine when the buttons are pressed (also the green one) - will anyway swap it out to make sure its not the fault of said LED

    13 hours ago, CJ55 said:

    @pat_00 It looks like the LED on switch 17 is dead. I had the same problem (strange) with the same effect! First it worked all perfectly well and after some testing the same LEDs as on your picture constantly lit.

    Maybe the problem is the bending to fit into the switch and the colored LEDs are more sensible in this regard.

    Bingo, switched out the LED and everything works like it should. Thanks for the tip. Almost there!

  2. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll upload some photos later tonight. I took some yesterday, but the quality is too bad to be useful.

    So far I checked:

    r1 and r2 are not shorted,

    All LEDs are the correct orientation with the anodes going to the holes marked with the circles. In testing then I found that the LEDs on SW14 to SW18 the LEDs passed voltage (approx 1.6v) in both directions, I'm guessing this isn't as it should be?

    I also found my Multimeter does not light any of the LEDs in diode test mode except the red 'recording' one. Maybe it doesn't put out enough power for the clear ones?

    The Cathodes are shorted in pairs to the switch below eg. SW9 is connected to SW14. I guess this is by design and not an issue?

    I'll do the tests with NG firmware tonight as well, but when I originally tested all button functions were OK (no latching, registering on and off as separate events) but the problem LEDs were still stuck on.

     

     

  3. On 5/23/2019 at 1:21 PM, pat_00 said:

    Ugh, I seem to have problems at every stage :(

    So I have gotten to the Fluxtest and have issues on both boards.

    On the LH board, no red led on SW14. Have tested the LED with multimeter and it's fine.

    On the RH board, no green or blue on SW7 and SW15, same as above, LEDs are OK.

    I've tried the usual, looking for obvious faults, diodes are all correct., soldering all looks OK. Any hints on where to look?

     

     

    Thought I'd report back, the above issues are solved. They were soldering issues, some really stupid some harder to find.

    I still have an issue I'd like to fix, the stop, rewind, fast forward and pause buttons are constantly lit up. They function correctly when pushed, but I'm assuming this is not normal?

    Midiseqv4.jpg

  4. Ugh, I seem to have problems at every stage :(

    So I have gotten to the Fluxtest and have issues on both boards.

    On the LH board, no red led on SW14. Have tested the LED with multimeter and it's fine.

    On the RH board, no green or blue on SW7 and SW15, same as above, LEDs are OK.

    I've tried the usual, looking for obvious faults, diodes are all correct., soldering all looks OK. Any hints on where to look?

     

     

  5. On 4/24/2019 at 4:14 PM, latigid on said:

    r4-ic2.thumb.JPG.04ddbbb0788ff05a6a9ad44

    The signal goes through R3 to pin 4 of IC2.

    Thanks! it was r3. There was a decent amount of solder there, but it had not flowed properly down the hole. Which made it look OK from the top, even with magnification. On to the next phase.

     

     

     

  6. 5 hours ago, latigid on said:

    Hi Pat,

    When you say switches don't work, I assume that you have loaded the correct .NGC file (left or right) and used

    
    set debug on

     to test if all switches are registering properly?

     

    Hi, I am loading seq_l and have both boards connected as in the video, setting debug to on.

    It is the left Lemec board that I am having trouble with. All other encoders/switches register except SW17-20.

  7. On 4/5/2019 at 8:43 PM, pat_00 said:

    I have SW9-12 working now. But still no SW17-20 (on both LEMEC boards). All diodes are correct. Transistors too.

    Do I need to solder in the MEC switches? In the build video they are not soldered in and  the testing works.

    After a couple of weeks break from the build, I'm back. I tried soldering in the MEC switches that are where the bridge is on both boards. Still no response from SW17-20.....Any other hints where I should look?

     

    I've also noticed some of the LEDs on the JA PCB light up now when running the seq_l code.(SW14-18 light up).

  8. I use two kinds, both Kester brand. Both are leaded, one with a water clean flux and the other a no clean flux. I find the water clean solder flows much more reliably, but I was worried about the Super LEDs getting wet seeing as there is a warning about humidity exposure on the video.

    Also the no-clean solder leaves most of the joints looking dull like a cold joint, so this is annoying when it comes to diagnosing. Which is why I am reflowing things here and there without any real plan.

  9. 4 hours ago, latigid on said:

    For the row of MECs SW17-20, you do actually have to solder in the switch that has the "sink bridged by switch" label on the silkscreen. The metal part of the switch provides the connection.

    For SW9-12 I don't know. Wrong transistor type maybe?

    I have SW9-12 working now. But still no SW17-20 (on both LEMEC boards). All diodes are correct. Transistors too.

    Do I need to solder in the MEC switches? In the build video they are not soldered in and  the testing works.

  10. Yeah I prefer the chisel tip for most things, except for the really small stuff.

    On to the next problem, I have moved forward to testing the DINs. Everything works OK....but SW9-12 (Matias) and SW17-20 (MEC).. no response there. I'm guessing it's one of the 165s? all the soldering on them seems OK.

    Any clues where to look?

  11. On 3/29/2019 at 5:23 PM, latigid on said:

    Let's see a hi-res photo of the board.

    So after giving the board a thorough clean with ISO alcohol in preparation for it's photo shoot, Ifound a pin on J89 that didn't look soldered too well, so I reflowed it. It all works now. I am relieved that I don't have to show you all my crappy soldering.

  12. On 2/6/2019 at 6:46 PM, Hawkeye said:

     

    Are the full schematics available anywhere? I've searched online and can't find them.

    I have a problem with testing the JA PCB.

    I've flashed the NG firmware and the seq_l script loads OK, I set debug on but there is no response from any of the controls or LEDs on the JA board. Any pointers as to where to look?

    I have checked all the ICs on the wCore and JA PCBs and reflowed anything that looked less than optimal.

     

  13. On 3/21/2019 at 11:21 PM, Hawkeye said:

    @pat_00 if you don't have access to a hot air rework station (which would be the recommended way to do it), you could try to clip off pin by pin with very fine pincers and then desolder/drag away the pin remains with your soldering iron. This obviously destroys the ICs, but should not be too stressful for the PCB. But as Andy wrote, hot air desoldering should minimize the risk to lift any pads - after warming up the target area, the IC should fall right off :).

    Many greets and good luck!
    Peter

    Thanks for the advice!

    I replaced them without too much hassle using hot air. Might have slightly damaged pad 1 on IC1A, but it looks OK for now.

  14. So after building dozens of other DIY projects, I finally goofed and installed some ICs backwards.

    On the wCore board, i had the 74HC125s flipped around the wrong way. I only found out when I plugged the USB into my laptop. The laptop figured the USB was drawing too much power and shut down the port fairly quickly. Would the chips have survived this? Should I just remove and re-install them, or replace them? Anything else I might have fried?

  15. It seems Mouser only has 33 of the MEC switches left (you need 34) and they have a 30 week lead time on getting more!

    I found RS Components still has them.

    What about the DMOS chip? TBD62381AFWG,EL. This is also out of stock at Mouser. Can I substitute another IC in the same series?

     

     

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