Mozart Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 I am new to DIY and, of course,this project and need some help on part substitution. I am based in the U.S. and have been looking at the Mouser sight for the LPC17 parts list. Currently there are three parts that I was wondering about regarding compatibility: Life Cycle Ended Alternative presented ================== ===================== 140-HTRL25V47-RC 140-RGA470M1EBK0511P 140-HTRL16V100-RC 140-RGA101M1CBK0611P 140-HTRL16V2200-RC 140-RGA222M1CBK1325P The URL's to the alternatives that Mouser is presenting are as follows: 140-RGA470M1EBK0511P - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lelon/RGA470M1EBK-0511P/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22Z8b58wL7Nwvtfo6xCJ7FFs%3d 140-RGA101M1CBK0611P - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lelon/RGA101M1CBK-0611P/?qs=4ZuRpliPd6yW%252bYRSlC8UhQ%3d%3d 140-RGA222M1CBK1325P - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lelon/RGA222M1CBK-1325P/?qs=4ZuRpliPd6yYgrkX404uEA%3d%3d I was wondering if these alternatives were good and useable. If they are not it would be great if someone could recommend an adequate alternative as well as a parts source that provides the alternative. Thanks for your help! -Ken Q. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
technobreath Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 (edited) Hi. 140-HTRL25V47-RC 140-RGA470M1EBK0511P -> 140-RGA470M1EBK0511P = Direct replacement - exactly the same specs. Use with confidence. 140-HTRL16V100-RC 140-RGA101M1CBK0611P -> 140-RGA101M1CBK0611P = Direct replacement too. 140-HTRL16V2200-RC 140-RGA222M1CBK1325P - > 140-RGA222M1CBK1325P = :o Direct replacement too. So, all of the alternatives have exactly the same specs as the list you wrote with the ones that is out of production. A word on capacitors. These are incredibly easy to compare. What you are looking for in the specs that are important for these diy projects here (not going into too much technical stuff) is: 1: Capacitance - the value of the cap - for example - 2200uF, 47uF etc... 2: Voltage rating - make sure the voltage rating is within specs. That is - if you are using the caps for a powersupply component wich is usually the case with 2200uF caps on midibox projects - if you feed the circuit with say, 12VAC, from the secondary side of the transformer into the rectifier, the cap should have at least 16V rating. You can't use lower rating than the specs say, but of course you can use higher voltage rating without problems electric-wise - BUT a 2200uF capacitor with 16v rating is physically smaller than a 2200uF 25v rated. That may be a problem when it comes to fitting it on a ready made pcb ;). But the dimensions are all there in the specs or datasheet, so no problem to find out if it matches your needs or not, but if you not know what to look for, it is best to keep to the original rating when substituting them with other alternatives. 3: And the dimensions. Should be the same. Of course you can always bend and twist leads around to make it fit etc... but it aint optimal hehe. Also when it comes to dimensions you have the layout of the component. caps like these you link to here (electrolytic caps - wich are polarized!) you get in both Axial and Radial. Axials have one lead out each end, and mounts with the cap laying on the board horizontally. Radial has both leads out one end, and mounts vertical on the board - or you can of course lay it down horizontally too... you know the drill. As I have no idea what kinda background you have, I tried to explain the important stuff when choosing subsitute caps - so this may be too much "babytalk" for you :) hehe. in that case - bare with me :). It looked like you had problems deciding on what specs to look for, so now you should know how to do it ;). Hope it helped, T EDIT: and oh - WELCOME! :D Edited September 19, 2011 by technobreath Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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