carsten_the_dane Posted September 2, 2006 Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 Changed the subject of this topic a bit, since my original problem didnt have much to do with my problems now. Please read on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carsten_the_dane Posted September 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 well i skipped that step and bought 2 nine volt batteries.But there is no light in the leds.Could i possibly post pictures of my board here, so that someone could check it out for errors. Because i dont know what to do now.Carsten Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carsten_the_dane Posted September 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 :-X i think i fried the LM317 voltage regulator.I had accidently switch around the capacitor and the "voltage testing pins". WhoopsIt almost caught fire :-\How on earth can i troubleshoot my board now. Maybe it was just the regulator that died on me, but perhaps all the parts got fried ???Nice to know what you´re doingcarsten Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carsten_the_dane Posted September 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2006 Lol. im getting a reading that says between 0.02 and 0.05 volts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carsten_the_dane Posted September 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2006 Electronics is completely new to me. So if you could please help me on this.Today i changed the 100uF 16V rectifier with a new one. Its a bit different; it says 100uF and 100V, i hope this is not a problem.I also changed the first voltage regulator LM317 - this one is changed to one called TL317. The man in the shop said it was the same. Is this a problem?I think i have manage to find the problem is with the LM317 (now TL317), where the voltage drops from about 9 (not quite 12.5) to 1,5.Any suggestions would much appreciated?ThanksCarsten Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carsten_the_dane Posted September 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2006 Using the multimeter i was measuring volts, particularly looking at the TL317 (LM317 in the schematics, read above).when i make connection between what i would call finger 1 and 2 on the TL317, the green light lights up quite clear. What could this mean?(finger 1 and 2 being first to the right and second to the right, looking on the flat side of the TL317) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK. Posted September 4, 2006 Report Share Posted September 4, 2006 It's very dangerous to short the legs of a semiconductor, this mostly leads to damage of this part, and if you have bad luck, also of the surounding parts. This doesn't mean, that the other parts are damaged now, but nobody can really tell you, if they still working or not - this can only determined by experts. :-/I think, the current situation is: when the green LED lights up, then the 5V domain (behind the 7805) is working ok, the problem must be somewhere between the LM317 and 7805 (see schematic). Yes, it doesn't matter if it is a 100uF/100V ecap and a TL317, they both should work. You are writing:I think i have manage to find the problem is with the LM317 (now TL317), where the voltage drops from about 9 (not quite 12.5) to 1,5.where do you measure 9V? Before or after the LM317 (see schematic: "before" is the I pin, "after" is the O pin), voltages have to be measured against ground.Or more interesting: which voltage do you measure at J1, which at LM317:I, at LM317:O, at J2?Best Regards, Thorsten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carsten_the_dane Posted September 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2006 HiFirst of all, thanks for moving the post, i didnt want to cross-post.And also thanks you for taking the time helping me.Here are the measures:J1 = 8.92LM317:I = 8.91LM317:O = 0.13J2 = 1.38 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK. Posted September 4, 2006 Report Share Posted September 4, 2006 Alright, this explains everything! :)At J1 you should see a voltage of ca. 18V, it seems that you've connected the 9V blocks in parallel, and not in serial. This means:one pin of J1 -> 1st 9V block (-)1st 9V block (+) -> 2nd 9V block (-)2nd 9V block (+) -> second pin of J1It's like a chain between the 9V blocks and the power input J1 of the burner module.Best Regards, Thorsten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carsten_the_dane Posted September 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2006 :-X whoops.Ok, the setup works, i get green light and a measure on j1 and j2 at 14.5But it puzzles me that i should connect the batteries at J1 and J2, at the pictures of you making the burner, the power clearly comes from J1 only? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK. Posted September 4, 2006 Report Share Posted September 4, 2006 Arg! This was an error, please remove the connection at J2 (hope this didn't fry the LM317), it should be connected to the second pin of J1Best Regards, Thorsten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carsten_the_dane Posted September 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2006 thats to bad. cuz now im getting no read at all.I connect the (-) from the battery to the pin closest to the LPT connector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK. Posted September 4, 2006 Report Share Posted September 4, 2006 I fear that my wrongly specified connection (+) -> J2 fried your LM317 :-(I'm really sorry about that, I was typing the message too fast. You need a new one - what is your postal address, I will send you a well tested LM317 for freeBest Regards, Thorsten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carsten_the_dane Posted September 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2006 I appreciate it, but there is no need for that. I dont live so far from an eletronik store.Even if it is fried, shouldnt i be able to get a reading before the LM317? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK. Posted September 5, 2006 Report Share Posted September 5, 2006 You don't measure any voltage between the two pins of J1? So, how did you connect the batteries then? Do you read a voltage when the LM317 is removed from the PCB?Best Regards, Thorsten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carsten_the_dane Posted September 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 My bad about the 0 volts at j1. New 317, New measures:J1: ~ 18 volts317: I = ~ 18 volts317: O = 0.14 voltsJ2: 1.41 voltsThis time i couldnt possibly have done anything to break the 317. No green lights either.So whats your advice?(EDIT): Been spending some time going over the schematics. And i havent been able to find any errors in my setup.Did i say that i have removed the b80c800 rectifier, and just uses a bridge. but than shouldnt mean anything, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carsten_the_dane Posted September 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 Here is a picture of my board, with some additional comments. You can see how i have placed to LEDs, and if there are any problems with my setup otherwise. The little blister on the voltage regulator is because this image is from before i moved the lm317, as explained earlier in this thread.I hope you dont get to confused by my drawings :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK. Posted September 7, 2006 Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 Looks correct, I don't know what else could be the problem. W/o the bridge rectifier you have to take care about the polarity, but I guess that you always did this?Best Regards, Thorsten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carsten_the_dane Posted September 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2006 I think when i had bad results i had tried changing the polarity, just to check if that might be the fault. Could this cause other compoonents to malfunction? - But generally i have been using the pin closest to the lpt as negative and the other as positive. I will put the recitifier back in place, so theres no doubt.Anyway, i was thinking of just bying all components again (except the sockets), and start over.Could it be a shortcircuit on the other side of the board. - I have checked but havent found any that i could see.Just to make sure: theres no polarity on resistors and ceramic capacitors, right?Well. Thanks again for taking some time to help meCarsten Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docbrown Posted September 8, 2006 Report Share Posted September 8, 2006 Just to make sure: theres no polarity on resistors and ceramic capacitors, right?Right!! Except for electrolytic capacitor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carsten_the_dane Posted September 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2006 Could you please take a look at the datasheet found on this page http://www.datasheet4u.net/html/T/L/3/TL317_TexasInstruments.pdf.htmlAs far as i can see, the I,O,A placement on the TL317 is different from the schematics found on ucapps.de. - Or what ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carsten_the_dane Posted September 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2006 Sorry my mistake again ;DThough the connections are made right i have been measuring at the wrong places. I had changed O and A around in my head. So the measures should be like this:J1: ~ 18 volts317: I = ~ 18 volts317: O = 2.1 voltsJ2: 1.41 voltsDont know if it changes anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carsten_the_dane Posted September 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 NOOO (or maybe yes) - one week of troubleshooting all because i didnt know what a trimpot was :-XWell, that will teach me to read about all components and read through all documents before starting the "real" midibox project.Its working now, and i feel sorry that i have wasted your time like that.Carsten Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carsten_the_dane Posted September 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 About the red LED. Should it be 12,5 - or the same as before plugging the burner into the computer?The documentation is a bit vague. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK. Posted September 9, 2006 Report Share Posted September 9, 2006 Before P18 doesn't control the MBHP_BURNER input lines, the status of the LEDs is undefinedSo, it's time to connect the burner with the PC, and to use the debug window of P18 to check the voltages.Best Regards, Thorsten. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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