Hi!
Today I got my membrane-Potentiometers (100mm-Hotpot) from Watterott. I had to wire a 10k resitor to between the "wiper" and ground. If this is not done, when the membrane is not touched it, and therefore the AD-converter-input, doesn't have any scecified contact with ground or 3.3V so it will send random signals, which cannot be filtered. With the 10k resitor, the value will be zero when the membrane is not touched, but this can easily be filtered by software.
Like this the pot works qu
Yeah, after evenings of soldering ist done!
I'm still a bit unsure whether I should have done some of them on vectorboard, but like this, I can attach my modules directly under each button-cluster.
Greetings Geth
Today I tested a infrared distance sensor.
I am using a Sharp2d120x, with a range from 4-30cm. I soldered its ground and source to J2, as the sensor
requires 5V to operate, and its output (analog voltage proportional to the distance) to an analog input.
The sensor works quite well, except it cannot reach the highest 5% of the midivalue, but this is not a
problem for me.
Greetings Geth
PS: The additional yellow wire and the capacitor between the (other) yellow wire and the grey on
I finished all the Dins I am going to use... photos will follow.
I am working on the Douts right now, attaching the 100nF-Caps is the most
annoying process if the build...
regards Geth
I had painted the wooden case for my controller, and it finished drying today.
I used "Dekorwachs", it needed a long time to dry completly. The water- and dirt-repelling properties
of wax are really good. All in all I am quite content with my build, still there are a few quirks with
the case, like minor gaps due to the wood (spruce-wood tends to "work") and a small break out where
the usb and power plug will sit. Well one has to learn by doing...
As it tunrs out my neighbour used to wo
Hi!
As I only started blogging, but work on this controller for about a month (plus some planning time), I have to close up to my current status, which I will do today.
So the controller is called mothership, because it is rather big :rolleyes: . It will be around a metre to half a metre to fifteen centimetres.
It holds controls for four decks inclusive jogwheels, four-section (midi)mixer, an effectsection plus loop-recorder controls. And some other stuff I found very funny, like infrar
My next step was to build a working core (lpc17) with some DINs and DOUTs. After some troubles ... I succeded.
I am really astonished, this device is the least troublesome device I have encountered so far. No extra drivers, just plug and play, and the controller can be unlugged and reconnected while traktor is running, no crash, not even a lag!
By the way, the midibox-site is really awesome and must be really a lot of work, so thanks to everyone and especially Thorsten!
A pic of my core
Hi,
this is my blog about how I am going to build a Traktor-Controller.
Well, and if this one turns out good, or at least not too bad, building more controllers.
I am playing around with traktor for about two years, and I was never really satisfied with the layout of the (traktor, or other midi-) controllers one could buy.
Thus, when I found the ucapps site about half an year ago, I really liked the idea of building a midicontroller myself, but I was not really sure, whether I was capable
