geth

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About geth

  • Rank
    MIDIbox Newbie
  • Birthday 02/12/1990

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Germany

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  1. Frontpanel 4

    From the album Mothership Midi-Controller

    Panel is now not turned upside down anymore (still the view of the backside, because it looks better without the paper).
  2. Frontpanel 3

  3. Frontpanel 2

    From the album Mothership Midi-Controller

    Panel is turned upside down.
  4. Frontpanel 1

  5. Frontpanel

    From the album Mothership Midi-Controller

    As a Schaeffer-frontpanel would be to expensive and it did not work out to make the panel on a CNC-mill with the connections of a friend, I decided to drill the panel myself.<br /><br />PS: My camera broke, the frontpanel-pics are made with my mobile phone, so sorry for the quality.
  6. Membrane Pots

    Hi! Today I got my membrane-Potentiometers (100mm-Hotpot) from Watterott. I had to wire a 10k resitor to between the "wiper" and ground. If this is not done, when the membrane is not touched it, and therefore the AD-converter-input, doesn't have any scecified contact with ground or 3.3V so it will send random signals, which cannot be filtered. With the 10k resitor, the value will be zero when the membrane is not touched, but this can easily be filtered by software. Like this the pot works quite well, no jittering. I have a round one and 8 linear potentiometers. I also got pressure sensitive resitors (sadly I did not manage an own post for it, I was rahter busy). Very simple wireing, just the pressure sensitive resitor between 3.3V and the AD-input and a 10k resitor between the input and ground. This works quite good and is fun to press =). I also got my 100 mini-arcade-buttons, yeah! Greetings geth
  7. Infrared distance sensor

    Hi, I found some time to check the sensor again. So my current wireing is like this: 5+ Volt and ground from the sensor to J2 with a 100nF cap between them. And the sensor output to an Ain frome the core, with another 100nF cap between this and ground. Now the input is jittering, but this comes from the sensor, if I put my finger over the photodiode of the sensor, the jittering stops and the output drops to zero. The infrared LED seems to be very strong, because if I put my finger (directly) over the photodiode and the LED, the output has still one fourth of its maximum value. So I will definetly use an additional switch to toggle this sensor on and of (otherwise mapping in traktor would be a pain), and recommend this to everyone else using this sensor. Greetings Geth
  8. Yeah, after evenings of soldering ist done! I'm still a bit unsure whether I should have done some of them on vectorboard, but like this, I can attach my modules directly under each button-cluster. Greetings Geth
  9. Infrared distance sensor

    hi, just a short update: Concerning the jittering: When I played around today I found out that the jittering is greater (probably like an unused open pot) without the 100nF capacitor on the connection of the yellow and the grey wire, I guess I was to tiered for proper testing... With this cap solderd back the jittering is gone again, but when I wait long enough it comes again, I suppose this is because the otherside is not connected to ground, I will test that when I have more time. Thanks for the replies, I totally forgot to check the outputvoltages :frantics: . I will definitly go for the software-correction of the 5%-problem in the custom code of my controller, so thanks for your clear instructions. By the way, it seems intelligent to me to add a switch to each infrared sensor, to prevent unwanted triggering. Greetings Geth
  10. By using the lpc17Core's analog inputs, it is possible to connect a sharp infrared sensor, so that the distance between the sensor and maybe a hand is converted to midivalues. The sensor: Sharp 2D120x f 9z around 10 euro (Watterott) size: appr. 5x1x1cm operating voltage: 5V output: analog voltage range: 4-30cm Minimal setup: Lpc17Core with midio128v3.006 SDcard (to enable the Ain) I bought and additional cable which fitted in the sensors plug. As the sensor requires 5V to operate, its ground and source are connected to J2, with and 100nF capacitor to reduce jittering. The analog output is connected to an analog input of the core (Note: there is a version of the sharp which has a digital output). Result: I used the distance to control a value in Traktor (by a hand), it worked well, except the highest 5% of the values are unreachable, but this is not so problematic on the first run. I could achive higher values by using something more reflective as my hand, a paper. The jittering is lower than I expected, the value jumps approximatly every 5 seconds. The area in which the sensor will work is about 10cm diameter at a distance of 30cm to the sensor. I hope this is usefull to someone, I had a lot of fun playing around with it and will use multiple sensors in my (traktor-)midicontroller. Greetings Geth
  11. Today I tested a infrared distance sensor. I am using a Sharp2d120x, with a range from 4-30cm. I soldered its ground and source to J2, as the sensor requires 5V to operate, and its output (analog voltage proportional to the distance) to an analog input. The sensor works quite well, except it cannot reach the highest 5% of the midivalue, but this is not a problem for me. Greetings Geth PS: The additional yellow wire and the capacitor between the (other) yellow wire and the grey one is obsolete, I only put it there to test reducing noise. The capacitor between 5+ and ground is sufficent to make the jittering drop under 7bit resolution, which mean no noise.