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About geth

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    MIDIbox Newbie
  • Birthday 02/12/1990

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  1. geth

    Formulor sheet is ready

    Nice layout! Do you order it from Schäfer-Frontplatten?
  2. Hi! Today I got my membrane-Potentiometers (100mm-Hotpot) from Watterott. I had to wire a 10k resitor to between the "wiper" and ground. If this is not done, when the membrane is not touched it, and therefore the AD-converter-input, doesn't have any scecified contact with ground or 3.3V so it will send random signals, which cannot be filtered. With the 10k resitor, the value will be zero when the membrane is not touched, but this can easily be filtered by software. Like this the pot works quite well, no jittering. I have a round one and 8 linear potentiometers. I also got pressure sen
  3. Hi, I found some time to check the sensor again. So my current wireing is like this: 5+ Volt and ground from the sensor to J2 with a 100nF cap between them. And the sensor output to an Ain frome the core, with another 100nF cap between this and ground. Now the input is jittering, but this comes from the sensor, if I put my finger over the photodiode of the sensor, the jittering stops and the output drops to zero. The infrared LED seems to be very strong, because if I put my finger (directly) over the photodiode and the LED, the output has still one fourth of its maximum value. So I will d
  4. Yeah, after evenings of soldering ist done! I'm still a bit unsure whether I should have done some of them on vectorboard, but like this, I can attach my modules directly under each button-cluster. Greetings Geth
  5. hi, just a short update: Concerning the jittering: When I played around today I found out that the jittering is greater (probably like an unused open pot) without the 100nF capacitor on the connection of the yellow and the grey wire, I guess I was to tiered for proper testing... With this cap solderd back the jittering is gone again, but when I wait long enough it comes again, I suppose this is because the otherside is not connected to ground, I will test that when I have more time. Thanks for the replies, I totally forgot to check the outputvoltages :frantics: . I will definitly go for
  6. By using the lpc17Core's analog inputs, it is possible to connect a sharp infrared sensor, so that the distance between the sensor and maybe a hand is converted to midivalues. The sensor: Sharp 2D120x f 9z around 10 euro (Watterott) size: appr. 5x1x1cm operating voltage: 5V output: analog voltage range: 4-30cm Minimal setup: Lpc17Core with midio128v3.006 SDcard (to enable the Ain) I bought and additional cable which fitted in the sensors plug. As the sensor requires 5V to operate, its ground and source are connected to J2, with and 100nF capacitor to reduce jittering. The ana
  7. Today I tested a infrared distance sensor. I am using a Sharp2d120x, with a range from 4-30cm. I soldered its ground and source to J2, as the sensor requires 5V to operate, and its output (analog voltage proportional to the distance) to an analog input. The sensor works quite well, except it cannot reach the highest 5% of the midivalue, but this is not a problem for me. Greetings Geth PS: The additional yellow wire and the capacitor between the (other) yellow wire and the grey one is obsolete, I only put it there to test reducing noise. The capacitor between 5+ and ground is s
  8. I finished all the Dins I am going to use... photos will follow. I am working on the Douts right now, attaching the 100nF-Caps is the most annoying process if the build... regards Geth
  9. I had painted the wooden case for my controller, and it finished drying today. I used "Dekorwachs", it needed a long time to dry completly. The water- and dirt-repelling properties of wax are really good. All in all I am quite content with my build, still there are a few quirks with the case, like minor gaps due to the wood (spruce-wood tends to "work") and a small break out where the usb and power plug will sit. Well one has to learn by doing... As it tunrs out my neighbour used to work in a company with a CNC-mill, I might get the chance of a cheap and good frontplate. Greeting
  10. Hi! As I only started blogging, but work on this controller for about a month (plus some planning time), I have to close up to my current status, which I will do today. So the controller is called mothership, because it is rather big :rolleyes: . It will be around a metre to half a metre to fifteen centimetres. It holds controls for four decks inclusive jogwheels, four-section (midi)mixer, an effectsection plus loop-recorder controls. And some other stuff I found very funny, like infrared distance sensors and touchpads. If I can I will try to implement four moto-faders for pitchcontro
  11. geth


    I have a wooden box and a selfmade aluminium frontplate. I have already done a bit more than I wrote, I'm working for about a month on this project, but I only started blogging... =). But I'm trying to fix this today. Greetings geth
  12. My next step was to build a working core (lpc17) with some DINs and DOUTs. After some troubles ... I succeded. I am really astonished, this device is the least troublesome device I have encountered so far. No extra drivers, just plug and play, and the controller can be unlugged and reconnected while traktor is running, no crash, not even a lag! By the way, the midibox-site is really awesome and must be really a lot of work, so thanks to everyone and especially Thorsten! A pic of my core with a DIN and a DOUT, even got a display for it...
  13. Hi, this is my blog about how I am going to build a Traktor-Controller. Well, and if this one turns out good, or at least not too bad, building more controllers. I am playing around with traktor for about two years, and I was never really satisfied with the layout of the (traktor, or other midi-) controllers one could buy. Thus, when I found the ucapps site about half an year ago, I really liked the idea of building a midicontroller myself, but I was not really sure, whether I was capable of such a thing and wanted to invest so much time. But having a electronics and PIC course at univer
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