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basta73

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Posts posted by basta73

  1. No link, but, for example...

    At the table on the left, under MB Hardware Platform

    Click on the "Core Module" link.

    Scroll down just below the first paragraph until you see the Download category.

    The middle link has the ".brd" extension, under the Schematics header.

  2. So,

    If your motorfaders are not touch sensitive, you can use a switch to interrupt the motors, and allow you to make adjustments without damaging the faders...

    Must you use 1 switch per fader, or does 1 switch turn off all faders' motors simultaneously?

    Has anyone tried using a footswitch to trigger this?  It seems this would be the least intrusive way to handle non-touch-sensitive boards.

  3. I am proposing a new section, under the micellaneous header, titled "Praises", just to give shout outs to those in the community that provide noteworthy achievements.  Aside from being an emmensely active, and productive community, this is one of the most positive forums anywhere.  It would be nice to recognize those members which make this place work so well.  

  4. I have 6 button caps like the ones on the Mackie HUI and Logic Control.  They are just caps, and you have to figure out how to mount them in your casing, and have them make contact with your switch.  

    I got the caps from a crestron system installer.  Maybe you can call up/ email crestron and ask them where they get them.  www.crestron.com

    Actually, isn't someone affiliated with Mackie New Zealand?  They should be able to tell you where to get the button caps directly.  Who was that?

    It will be a huge pain in the ass, getting the cases made to fit these.

  5. My thoughts were that if you...

    A.  Painted out your buttons so that only the LED in and out points were exposed, and

    B.   Used point-source LEDs, instead of diffused LEDs, and

    C.  Covered the whole painted button (even icons and words) with 3-4 coats of clear topcoat

    then...

    The button would stay looking sharp and minimize bleed into other LEDs

  6. If you take the casing off of your mouse, it should be set up for what you want.  The encoders around the mouse are set up in a L-R and up-down configuration, and the wheels are slick, but very responsive to the touch.  You could mount the case-less mouse in whatever enclosure you want, and use it through a program like Girder, or bypass some of it's internal circuits, and adapt it to MIOS.  Not that I know exactly how, but it seems more than possible.

  7. Pilo,

    You had the same thought I did  ;) .  5 characters per channel, and very thin lines drawn on the surface of the display.  I'm still not sure about staggering the layout.  I'm trying to figure out if it feels better to have the layout crowded, or eratic.

  8. Someone out  there knows how to do this.

    Does anyone know how to add up what the Power Supply should be capable of, based on the components in the box, i.e. add 1mA per LED.  

    So you can say, my project has 16 encoders, 8 MF, 16 LED rings, 2 LCDs, etc.  And just add up the numbers until you get to the Amperage requirements of the project.

    I hope this makes sense.

    I'm looking for a chart that graphs what the individual components need.

  9. In theory, I guess you wouldn't, but as I understand it, on  faders (as opposed to pots) the dual pot works in opposite directions.  Emulating the crossfader in a DJ mixer.  

    A----[llll]-----B

    moving the slider left brings up channel A, while dropping channel B.  and Vice Versa.  

    This may be based on a fantasy, but it seems to make sense, doesn't it?

  10. Has anyone found long (80-100mm) easy gliding faders to use as crossfaders?  10k, linear, dual-pot would be ideal.  I see a lot of projects have horizontal faders, but I'm wondering if anyone found faders that have that right feel?

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