Wisefire

looks nice.. good 'n compact.. i like the on off button..! :D

actually i am quite shure they are correct.. but i could be wrong as well :D when seen from the "up"side with the little indent (the U indentation) facing up.. the upper right pin is vdd.. am i right? i deduced this info from http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_dinx4.pdf

ok another day.. 2 modules.. made a dIN and the CORE.. wow that core is hectic.. but cewl to make anyway.. but i still have a dislike for caps.. they look to much alike :P and i cant just measure them.. but with a little guesswork.. its just like a little puzzle.. :P i noticed that i dont make photos of half done modules .. so here is one :P.. and now its done.. notice the caps in the right place :D i felt productive.. notice the osc crystal is ON the pcb instead of under it.. it fits so why not.. and look how shiny the back is.. im getting better :D

in the meantime i reajusted my faulty caps they are in sync with the schematic now.. if it doesnt make it worse.. why not :P but lets not get ahead of ehm.. me?!. probably should get some sounds out of my sid first :S when are those fscking PICs gonna arrive.. man.. how does a dOUT and a SID module look like with the caps in the RIGHT places you ask.. well let me show you! THIS IS THE RIGHT.. and i do mean RIGHT CAP CONFIG.. THE PICS IN THE OTHER POST ARE WRONG.. just to avoid getting someone else in the same trouble :P another day.. another module..

@tarzan boy: its kinda mandatory seeing i dont have a guide print on my PCBs.. but it is kinda usefull.. @ raphael: thnx dude.. this almost cleared everything up for me.. one thing though.. do i need to bust a big cap on every dOUT or just the first one. not talking bout the small caps just the big one on the beginning.. thnx..

obviously it doesnt include the rotary encoders and the lcd or the led cuz i ordered those from voti.nl and on another note ive completed another module.. my soldering point of my soldering iron has worn down so i decided to get a new one.. and while i was at it some thinner soldering wire.. wow, was that ever a good choice to make.. i did the SID module tonight, and put the caps on the dOUT module.. and again some questions as well.. lets first begin with the pictures.. it is done (hopefully).. the small caps where an absolute pain.. i didnt know what was what..but hopefully i put them all in the correct place.. :S notice how much better it looks compared to the first module i did.. but where to put the caps.. gathering from TKs Pics on the Sid page, on the VCC instead of the VSS and according to this page http://encyclobeamia.solarbotics.net/articles/vxx.html those are supposed to be opposites.. would this mean my caps on my dOUT are in the wrong place as well.. i have connected them from the GROUND of the chips to the ground of the PCB.. and still have to put another cap somewhere (the big blue one :S ) meanwhile i dream of having a very cewl homemade sid synth.. alu casing nice rubber knobs.. and a beautiful display.. oh and this week im picking up an addtional 2 commodores.. yeah baby.. 1 c64v1 and 1c64v2 with obviously one 6851 and one 8580. how im gonna pull it off with the voltages, i dont know.. but i would love to have both chips in there.. or have a stereo 8580 sid synth.. i havent decided yet.. so im buying both.. hey come on.. im paying 5 euros for a c64..

jörg has a WHOLE SID kit.. which includes everything you've seen on the pics, exept the flatcable. and it cost about the price of 1 sidkit, 1core kit, 1! dinx kit and 1! doutx kit at your store.. that would mean i get 1 dout and 2 din kits for "free" at his place.. which is obviously cheaper :P

hey smash, to answer your questions: 1. no, thats what i was wondering aswell, the white foam you see on the "ikea" extra parts photo is where all my ICs and parts where plugged in.. 2. no mounting holes.. just miniscule holes where i have to drill my own holes. i am quite convinced (i dont wanna start a fight, riot or flamewar either, just posting my observations) that your pcbs are of "higher" quality, with a guide printed on the back and a modified pcb (i noticed that when i was trying to use your guide to solder my dOUT) where i dont have to put a blue wire on my pcb :P and stick 2 pins in one hole (the ic mounts) BUT.. jörg is substantially cheaper when buying a whole SID kit.. but when i would order just the individual pcbs plus parts.. but still.. both of you provide a uncanny service.. how am i.. as the proverbial "N00B".. going to find all the parts and get a pcb drilled and etched.. and as far as you loving "making of" threads, i do too.. thats why i put in the extra effort of photographing the shindig and posting it.. ive seen the caps on the DOUT page.. thnx moebius for clearing that up.. but still no idea where to place them exactly.. but following the instructions.. i have to find out what the +5volt line is and place them parallel to that line.. as close to the IC's as possible.. well, another night another module.. at least i hope so.. thnx for the interest and support.. c ya laterz.. wisefire..

well, ofcourse i got right in and built the first module.. just a simple one i thought.. so i built a dOUT module. and as usual here are some pics.. the front, notice all the resistors facing the same way... the back, notice the blue wire, i wonder why the pcb couldnt be bigger, as to avoid this.. you know the feeling you get when you build something from ikea, and when you're done you notice the parts you didnt use. the feeling of fear that when you going to actually use the chair, table or bookcase, its going to collapse or disintigrate.. thats the feeling i got when i noticed these 5 parts.. why are they in there.. for what do i need them?

well, ive got good news.. got my next package.. all the way from germany.. :P ive received my PCBs and parts.. ofcourse here are some pictures.. 5 meter of flat multicore wire.. or whatever the name is.. it will come in handy.. but i will probably need some plugs for it :S here we see the core and sid PCB... and the dIN PCB.. you will notice the fact that it is NOT marked.. yes, it will be a puzzle.. the dOUT PCB.. i dont know if smashTVs PCBs are marked, ill probably find out when ill order from him.. oh and here we see the core parts.. the parts for the SID module.. and the parts for 1 dIN module. and finally the parts for 1 dOUT module.. now only for the PIC processors.. ill probably go ahead and build a 2,3 or 4 SID midiboxSID but that will come at a later stage.. when i succesfully built a working version :P.. and when i get some more commodore64s thats it for now.. greets.. wisefire..

wow.. ive been stickied.. thnx tk.. and now for something completely different.. had some old junk lying around.. some guy at my school tried to make a mixer.. with a "vu meter"in it.. project went horribly wrong. i salvaged the remaining parts.. bent the already drilled alu with my bare hands (aint I a brute :P) into a shape where his "vu meter"could fit.. this visualizer is the worst VIS, ive ever seen.. and it is most certainly NOT a VU meter.. you cant read anything acurately on it, not even if a sound is playing.. you have to change the value on a onboard pot for that.. lol.. but it has leds and it looks cewl. so i decided to make a casing for it.. obviously its called FIZZ.. and thats so people wont call it a VU meter.. FYI. my midibox sid WILL look better than this.. lol..

yeah.. kokoon.. thats what i gather from my readings aswell.. so if the jdm dont work.. then ill try the broccoli..

the pic burner is to large to assemble easily.. for me atleast.. and ICs are not that easy to get at the electronicstores we have here.. also.. ( i havent done the math though) its probably more expensive.. the jdm module is small in comparison.. and the broccoli18 system is even smaller.. im building a budget sid.. as cheap as i can.. without compromises though.. however if you dont want to spend endless hours worrying and searching and rebuilding and what not.. the pic burner is probably the way to go..

Good news, FINALLY something has come in.. after a week of waiting, my voti.nl order has come in.. i opened it and.. Got my first look at my beautiful 40x2 display.. great stuff.. here is a closeup of the connection now its just the order from jörgs shop.. and im in business.. ok ok.. you are right.. i should probably have some buttons as well.. but i have found a dutch seller who sells mec buttons.. so that shouldnt pose a problem.. or ill raid an old vcr.. anyway.. huh? whats that you say?? yeah.. hmhm.. a casing?? oh dont you worry your pretty little head about that.. i found a guy who can fold alu for free.. and a guy with cnc equipment isnt to hard to find in my circle of friend... (at least i hope not) thats about it for now.. still waiting on my PICS as well btw.. ill keep you posted..

hey rapheal, thnx.. you are absolutely right.. and luckily i havent done that yet.. i havent got my PIC in yet.. its still shipping :S it has been for about 7 days now.. 5 work days.. anyway ill post voltage readings when i have setup a old windows 98 system.. cuz i dont wanna bother with all the problems that newer computers and xp has with the JDM.. Thnx again, Wisefire

check ouy the p5 glove on google.. thats what they made with those exact flex sensors.. ive actually got 2 lying here. they are great.. and cuz of the fact the company has cease to be. very cheap if you can still find them.. mine were about 10 dollars.. without shipping.. edit: here are some links: repository for p5+music making combined.. http://www.audiomulch.com/simulus/p5glove i didnt look to hard.. but here you can buy them reasonably cheap: http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.gsp?dest=9999999997&product_id=2073360&sourceid=0100000012231185702498 the yahoo group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/p5glove/ edit2: btw i ordered a sample for those xy pads and softpot.. i would love to make a midi kaoss pad type thing.. you say that it wont remember position.. but couldnt you program in that the position the resistance is in when not touched is ignored? and that it would repeat the last measured value before that? just imagine.. for live use.. your own kaoss pad, for a fraction of the cost.. and controlling your own choice piece of hardware.. im dreaming allready..

ive noticed a missing connection, and now i am atleast measuring SOMETHING.. its not 14 v.. but somewhere in the vincinity of 5 v.. but im glad its now atleast giving something out..

i wont take no for an answer from that thing.. i need it to work.. and i was doing the test first.. measuring voltages.. but i dont seem to get any voltage.. its too bad that i dont actually KNOW what i am doing :P ill have to try again when i get the pic.. or when i assembled all the rest (which i still has to be delivered :P) or maybe when i feel like setting up an old computer.. which has win98 on it..

well, it doesnt work :( im wondering, is it because i use a 65V 22uF capasitor instead of a 16v one? or is it because im using XP? im assuming my solders are good and the route is right aswell..

well, i pulled an all nighter and finished the jdm module.. i didnt test it yet, cuz im too tired.. i will now be hitting the sack, as it were.. at first i couldnt find my good solder, so i tried very briefly to solder with a higher gauge (thickness..) my advise: DONT.. its horrible.. and ofcourse presoldering wire is a very good advise.. in case you missed it.. notice the weird clunking of parts.. im not a very good space planner.. but all the connections are there.. and it should work..

hi all, im gonna use this topic as a sort weblog to describe all the steps i take to build my midibox sid. last week i found and bought a commodore from from an online marketplace. picked it up in amsterdam sloterdijk for 5 euros. as you can see its the second version, and indeed has an 8580 in it.. however i didnt get to test it fully as of yet.. but i know it still makes sound. last night, after thorough research ive decided to buy the pcb kits (thats pcb and pcbparts) from jörgs midishop and the lcd, leds, and rotaty encoders from voti.nl ive opted for a 40x2 lcd. that choice wasnt that easy, cuz of the fact that i have to recompile the hex/syx.. but it was VERY cheap (12 euros) and it is backlighted so in my opinion the pros outweigh the cons.. today ive gone to an electronics store to buy some material for the jdm module, when i get my PIC ill be able to program it myself instead of paying other people to do it.. its not actually cheaper.. ill break even when i make a 4xsid midibox.. but its fun to learn.. and maybe when all goes well i might be able to program pics for other people in holland.. anyhow, ive decided to do this myself..

i have read the site, its isnt really explainatory.. and im not getting a pic from smashtv (extra shipping cost) or mike and jörgs webshop (17 euro for a pic? to expensive even without the shipping) ive opted for another source.. which cant program it for me.. so ive descided to do it myself.. ill figure it out when i get my pic here i guess..

hi guys, im starting up with a midibox sid aswell.. but i had something i didnt understand.. so you have a .hex file which is a bootloader, but what is an id header.. i know it tells the bootloader what it is supposed to know.. but how.. is it a part of the bootloader which i would have to edit? greetz, wisefire