SLP
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Posts posted by SLP
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You've got 8 analog inputs.
You can do whatever your coding skills are capable of.
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http://ucapps.de/midibox_sid_manual_fp.html
Analog Control ElementsWith MIDIbox SID V2, analog control elements like pots, faders and joysticks are natively supported. Everything you can find in the forum about such an extension for V1 is obsolete, especially because a dedicated driver is used instead of MIOS_AIN for optimized performance.
This feature has to be explicitely enabled within the setup_*.asm file by setting DEFAULT_J5_FUNCTION to 1 - once you did this, all unusued analog inputs must be clamped to ground in order to prevent random values! This is especially required for the slave modules, when the master firmware will be transfered to the slaves via ECAN (clone feature).
All 8 analog inputs are sampled with a frequency of 125 Hz. Multiplexing (-> MBHP_AIN module) is *not* supported! So, 8 inputs are maximum.
The firmware currently only uses the first 5 inputs of J5, the remaining 3 are reserved for future features.
The converted values are forwarded to the knob handler. This generic approach gives you all advantages of the knob concept: value changes can be forwarded to two sound parameters, a Min/Max range can be specified, and the converted values are also available as modulation source!
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does anybody remember what i paid for it?
Chip: 2,50€
PCB: 3,50€
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I need a schematic 4 this
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Is that one too complex for your taste?
http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,13684.0/topicseen.html
Or do you *really* want to input single note values with a keyboard?
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I have Start to Build one SidV3 and i am near to finish!
huh? You're probably the first one ever :D
MB_SID V3 doesn't exist yet ;)
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Bei Mike sind es 2 x 3 Pins
wo hast du denn das her?
Als Lötkolben tuts ein normaler ~30Watt Lötkolben.
Temperaturregelung ist ein nettes Feature.
Ich verwende eine Weller WHS 40 Löt"Station" und bin ganz zufrieden damit.
Als Lötzinn taugt ein gewöhnliches Elektronik-Lot (am besten *nicht* bleifrei) mit Flussmittelseele
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Those look cheap not relieable. I'd suggest you to build a GM5(x5x5)
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Warum nennt ihr den Core "Core8"? Die letzte Revision die ich finde und von der ich weiß ist der "Core v3"?
Core8 ist der "alte" Core mit PIC Microcontroller (8 bit AFAIK), der neue STM-Core arbeitet mit 32bit.
Von den PIC-Cores gibts mittlerweile die dritte "Neuauflage" mit ein paar Veränderungen (Andere PIC-Typen, früher war auch mal eine In-Circuit-Programming Möglichkeit mit drauf AFAIK)
"R4d" bezeichnet die Board-Revision von Smash. Der bastelt ja doppelseitige Platinen, die immer wieder optimiert werden. Die verschiedenen Revisionen sind aber bis auf diverse Unterschiede im Layout relativ identisch (sofern es sich um dieselbe Core-Version handelt).
Und diese R4d Boards von Smash kennt ihr doch sicher? Da sind eben im Gegensatz zu den Boards von Mike noch zusätzlich 2 richtige MIDI Buchsen zu finden, die auch bei ucapps in der Dokumentation nicht eingezeichnet und erwähnt sind? Da wüsste ich halt gerne die genauen Unterschiede?
Jeder Core8 hat ein MIDI I/O drauf. garantiert.
Das ist auch im Schaltplan eingezeichnet (J12, J13).
Wie kommst du denn darauf dass Mikes Platinen keine MIDI-Buchsen haben?!?
Mikes Platinen sind halt in der Hinsicht eher "nachteiliger", weil sie nur einseitig sind und keinen Bestückungsdruck (Silkscreen) drauf haben.
OK, ein umschaltbares Stecker-Netzteil habe ich noch. Wie sieht es denn allgemein mit der Spannung aus? In der Doku steht ja was von 5V, du sagst jetzt allerdings 9V und im Forum hab ich auch schon öfter von 12V gelesen. Was kann/sollte man denn jetzt wirklich am Core anlegen sofern nicht gerade Motorfader etc. dran hängen?
Die ganze Elektronik läuft mit 5V. Allerdings befinden sich ein Gleichrichter, ein Spannungsregler (7805) und Kondensatoren zur Glättung einer evtl. angelegten Wechselspannung auf dem Core.
Du kannst also eine Gleich- oder eine Wechselspannung an J1 anlegen. Da der Spannungsregler immer ein paar Volt mehr braucht, um vernünftig auf 5V runterregeln zu können, solltest du zwischen 7 und 10 Volt anlegen.
Am günstigsten wäre, wie nILS schon gesagt hat, ein 9V (AC oder DC) Steckernetzteil. Das sollte schon 500mA liefern können.
Achte beim Betrieb darauf, dass der Spannungsregler nicht zu heiß wird. Ein Kühlkörper schafft dann Abhilfe.
Für das MF-Modul brauchst du jetzt natürlich 12-15 Volt, wie aus dem Schaltplan hervorgeht:
http://ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_mf.pdf
Jetzt hast du mehrere Möglichkeiten. Am einfachsten wäre ein zweites Netzteil, das nur das MF-Modul mit 12V versorgt.
Da du dich mit Elektronik anscheinend noch nicht so gut auskennst, ist die Lösung mit dem selbstgebautem Trafonetzteil eher nicht zu empfehlen. 230V können ziemlich weh tun...
Meine bevorzugte Lösung wäre, dass du einfach ein großes 12V Netzteil besorgst (1,5-2A), die 12V dann direkt in das MF-Modul einspeist, und damit auch den Core versorgst.
Bei 12V muss der Spannungsregler aber 12-5=7V direkt in Hitze verwandeln. Das ist ungut. Deshalb würde ich die 12V zuerst mit einem 7809 auf 9V runterregeln, und dann mit den 9V auf die Core-Platine gehen.
Nojo, allegmein wird ja als MIDI interface hier eher das gehandelt, was an den PC/MAC MIDI Sockel ranzaubert ;)
gut, das ist jetzt eine Definitionssache... Hauptsache ist, dass jeder weiß, was gemeint ist... ;D
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Kein core8 hat ein MIDI-USB Interface mit drauf.
MIDI-Schnittstellen hat jeder Core8.
/Pedanterie ;)
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Heating it up won't correct anything unless you add flux
exactly. Usually, most of the solder has a rosin core, but I prefer adding additional rosin (kolophonium) diluted in alcohol to all my components' pins and the PCB. This decreases the surface tension of the solder dramatically and everything goes really smooth.
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Actually someone made a commodore ring from the Commodore key on the keyboard,
but i'd be damned if i can find it in the search!
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Mssiah diagnostics only test the oscillators with one waveform, so any damage to the noise generators would slip by. I suggested making a song in the sequencer for testing purposes, with chords using all three oscillators, one waveform at a time + filter sweep. That would be sufficient testing, right?
Why don't you just ask Wilba about his testing procedure?
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where abouts?
A good magician never reveals their secrets.
:P
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ouch, I completely forgot about that...
the rough translation I had made it sound quite easy to break the screen if I screwed it up...and I hate to think how I could find a replacement screen...it would be impossible :/
sure, that's a risk. It's your decision.
Also the inverter could be quite noisy.
The Translation won't be a 1:1-Translation, but it'll do it's job.
pictures are taken directly from
http://www.modding-factory.net/how2.php?how2=7
You'll need a sheet of EL-foil and an inverter. You'll also need a soldering iron, wire and solder.
In this tutorial, I'll show you how to illuminate a non-illuminated LCD
First of all, you have to remove the LCD from the PCB. You can do this by bending the metal ears of the bezel (red squares in the pictures), so they fit through the slots in the PCB.
After that, you can carefully remove the LCD from the PCB. I've left the LCD in the bezel, but It's recommendable to remove the bezel, so cleaning will be simplified.
It is very important to remember, where the Top and bottom of the LCD have been. Just take a piece of paper, draw an arrow and glue it to the LCD with the arrow pointing upwards.
On the back of the LCD, there is an opaque white foil, which prevents to see the PCB through the LCD. Take a sharp (exacto-) knife and remove a bit of the foil, until you can grab it with your fingers and pull it off completely. You have to do this very carefully and you've got to pay attention not to damage the polarizing foil, which is just below the white foil.
It should look like that now. The glue makes the LCD unclear, so you'll have to remove it. I've used white gas because glass cleaner and spirit didn't work.
This is how it should look like. It took quite some time to remove all of the glue.
Now you can reassemble the LCD, cut the EL-foil so it fits neatly under the LCD, and slide it under the LCD.
The rest of the text is unimportant. Connect the inverter to the EL-foil, and don't forget a proper insulation.
good luck ;)
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Wilba, I believe it IS possible to clone SIDs. I don't think anyone who has the resources to do it understands how valuable that would be. Perhaps we should start a company for research and development.
It it of course possible. the files are here http://sid.kubarth.com/sid_dies.html .
print them out and show them Intel or AMD or whatever company that has the possibility to do that.
"Hey, Intel-guy, could you just make a batch of 1000 SIDs for me?"
The actual demand is just too low to make a profit with that. (It is unfortunately high enough to make money with faked ICs)
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I really like that mod done on that website...after reading the translated version though it sounds very full on :(
I'll translate it properly this afternoon. It doesn't sound too hard, actually.
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Another possibility (unfortunately only in german): http://www.modding-factory.net/how2.php?how2=7
Schrittmacher already tried this here: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,13315.0.html
and it worked. He said he'll post some pics as soon as his box is up and running.
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if i connected a DIN board to the core.. then the core would be able to foward in some midi data to the pc from the encoders.. as in not having the encoders to control anything MBSIDv2 parameter??
This should be doable with some programming.
If you want to go the easy way (which will take up more space), you could just build a small MB64E. Just a Core and a DIN.
The funny thing is, that even with a Core-Kit (~27$) and a DIN-Kit (14$) from Smash, you'll still end up 9$ cheaper than with that flight-simulator-thingy :D. Plus you'll have the possibility to add some other Modules (DOUT for some LEDs, a MotorFader-module...).
The GM5 is still a great (the best?!?) choice for connecting your Eee-PC with the SID. the PCB is sooo tiny (you don't have to solder the MIDI-sockets) and it's sooo cheap as well. Plus you'll have the possibility to connect up to 4 additional MIDI-Devices to the PC with just a minimum of additional circuitry for each I/O pair.
i saw the kool
Did you see the gang, too?
;)
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what is switchmode PSUs? - i thought the Optimized PSU took care of the noise?--
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply ;)
Common PSUs work with a simple transformer. But there will still be some light 50 or 60Hz buzz, which can be eliminated with the Optimised PSU circuit.
i stumbled upon some flight simulation geeks at http://www.desktopaviator.com/ who provide this for a better and real flight experience :0)
he ships both the PCB and encoders.. i dont know if this is cheap?
50 bucks... that is expensive.
You can easily hook up a DIN-board to your Core and connect the encoders (which can be found elsewhere for <2$) to the DIN.
btw: If you search the board for "GM5", you'll find a very low-cost MIDI-USB-Interface with up to 5 I/Os.
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does it make any sense what i am asking?
should be doable, if that's what you wanted to hear ;), but: switchmode PSUs tend to produce some high frequency digital noise, which will be hearable in the SID's audio output. I'd rather find a 12V transformer-PSU and try to run the PC and the SID with it.
What's that encoder-to-USB-PCB?
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Btw, Whats that little box that makes sounds when you hit it?
looks like a Spring Reverb.
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as you are all aware i am no expert on this but maybe there could be a solution involving a 555 timer :-[ there good for pulses and metronome type apps.
hehe,... yeah, the 555, my favourite IC ;D
But you won't be able to use it in this situation. How does the 555 know how fast the tempo is set? The 555 really sucks when it comes to interfacing. The Frequency and PW is just controlled by two R's and a Capacitor, so it's not really accurate when using common 5% R's.
The easiest would be a seperate DOUT pin and some coding for the LED.
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