docbrown
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Posts posted by docbrown
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Hi,
I just wanted to know if its possible to replace all of the regular switches on the MBSEQv2 with a touch sensor? http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_din_touchsensors.pdf
Just looking at all of my possible option for this project.
thanks..
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Yer, parts and labour are cheap in mainland china but not so much in hong kong.
In fact, I could just open up a line of digidesign icon replicas to be made in china and sell them for 2000 a piece lol ;D ;D
LMAO. ;D I believe you!!
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yes , i have to take some new pics of the first series of test i've done, i've lost the original pics...
let me some day to do that...
Thanks.. ;D
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Thank you very much moxi!
I have to study these sites but they are fab. I currently reside in Hong Kong, electronic parts should be dirt cheap here, but what can I do about enclosures without having to fabricate one?
Man, I evny you. >:( I know how cheap electronics parts in Asia. Back in the Philippines when I was growing up a 555 timer is 4 pesos, which is roughly around 0.86 cents US. ;D Good luck on your LC clone..
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Sorry about reviving this thread.
Moxi,
Can you please re-post those pictures again about your DIY illuminated buttons. :-\
The reason I ask, because of this thread: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=7116.15
Since I am new to this forum, I missed out on some of the good stuff around here. And your project is one of them. I am sure that some new users are interested in it too.
Please... thanks...
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Right, here is the thread http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=4997.0
I try following that link. First link it points to this forum. The second also points to this forum. The third link on the other hand points to a pictures of a "mouse attacking another mouse" ??? It's pretty funny though ;D ;D ;D
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Are they going to make round buttons? Because its easier to make round holes in a metal enclosure uniformly than squares. ;)
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Well, if this will be a starting count, then count me in on this!! ;D ;D
thanks..
Corrections, I am on for the buttons only also. But if the overall cost of a monome clone is under $100 with out enclosure, then I'll go for it too.. ;D
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Just out of interest: are there enough people who want to make a monome clone (using MIDIbox) that we could get a bulk order happening for an 8x8 button PCB?
Well, if this will be a starting count, then count me in on this!! ;D ;D
thanks..
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i doubt it's possible to 'fry' the pic, even with very bad code ;)
Actually, I know that a bad code can not fry a PIC. What I meant is a corrupted code "inside the PIC".. Sorry for not being detailed about my question.
There is the 1st level bootloader that is burnt onto the pic.
Then there is another 2nd level bootloader coming with MIOS; this one is active for about 2 seconds after rebooting. If you have a corrupt application that is blocking the incoming SysEx events, try sending your application immediatly after rebooting (in that 2 second range of the 2nd level bootloader).
Let us know if this helps.
Cheers,
Michael
Michael,
That's it!! ;D it work. ;D You're absolutely right... I just need to time the upload request. I reloaded MIOS again.
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Did u try to upload another App? Or does it freeze or something?
We can't say much if you didn't try right ;)
Yes, I tried uploading another app and even the MIOS and its not taking it. I don't remember the actual error, coz I'm at work right now.
I will try to upload again tonight and I will post the results.
thanks..
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Hi guys,
Last night, I tried uploading programs one right after another on my core, just experimenting ;D After successfully loading 4 application, the one that corrupt my PIC is when I load the LCD benchmark app on top of the router app :-[
Now the core only displays the MIOS version (with TK's trademark) upon boot up. Can I still replace the corrupt application? It seems to me that the bootstrap and MIOS is still working, or am I wrong on that assumption?
Questions:
1. Should I reload the bootstrap?
2. Should I reload MIOS?
3. How do you erase the PIC completely back to factory specs?
Just FYI: I own a PIC burner (parallel version)
Please advice..thanks
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Turn off all the other layers. In the upper left corner of the There is a button that has 3 colored squares overlapping it. Click it and make sure only the following are selected:
- Bottom
- Pads
- Vias
- Document
To view the top only, deselect bottom and select top. Print with the options SOLID and BLACK selected. You should print the top in reverse (mirror).
Good Luck
Thanks.. ;D ;D ;D
- Bottom
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I know I should RTFM, :-[ but I figured someone can just give me a quick answer here in the forum. This should be very easy for someone with Eagle experience. ;)
Basically, I am trying to print the actual PCB of the Core V3 so that I could make my own PCB, but how do you print the PCB copper layer only with out printing the silkscrenn portion of it? ???
thanks..
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Just FYI:
Before you insert the PIC, make sure you do the voltage check that was recommended on the Core module page..
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I like to revive this thread because I'm curious about how the buttons really looks like. Anybody have an internal picture of this toy?
thanks..
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For those who haven't seen the Legacy, there's more to it than just a keyboard. There are knobs and patch points (plugs and cables) on the control surface that emulate a Korg MS-20 analogue synth, and speak to the matching software synth in the computer.
I completely agree with DrBunsen. Even rewiring the keyboard controller alone will be tough.
Lets say you are just wiring up the keyboard not including the knobs, patch cable and other stuff. How do you go about sensing individual key velocity and Pitch wheel? Have any body here in this community have successfully wired up those features yet? Because, I would like to know also. ???
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Regarding any more ideas, no not yet. I have been busy for the past two days gathering parts for my PIC Burner. Then last night, I just finish my PIC Burner on a vector board and programmed 2x 18F452-I/P for any future MIDIBOX project. One PIC will be this über MIDI router and the other is for my future SID box.
Since I like to start on this project anyway, even though SmashTV just shipped my MBSEQv2 kits ;D I will however gather the parts needed on this über MIDI router.
Man,, I'm so excited!! ;D ;D I wish I have discovered this site years ago.. I did not see this site until last month, when looking for a DIY analog style sequencer... ;)
Question about the über MIDI router: How many DIN and DOUT's do you think I need?
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Shum,
Just to give you an update. After I switch around the connection, it finnaly works!!
Yay!! I loaded the bootstrap on the PIC... ;D ;D ;D ;D
thanks again..
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Hi docbrown,
Data_out (Acknowledge) is pin 10. Data_in is pin 2. Vdd_enable is pin 4. Vpp_enable is pin 5, and clock is pin 3. Signal ground are from pins 18 to 25. Attached is a pinout of the D25. Hope this will help.
Regards
Shum
Shum,
I will re-wire this burner again. No wonder the red light is always on >:( Looking at the connector in the diagram, it seems like its facing back which is the conductor side, but not the pin side.
thanks... ;D ;D
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Oh crap I totally forgot about that!! So sorry!! Man I feel like such a space cadet right now. I just put it on my list for this w/e.
I'll consider the UI when I take breaks from coding, but one feature I know I'd like is to set the range by holding a button and hitting a key. We also need a way to set the keyshifting. The keyshift would work like this:
Dude, no worries.. I'm the one that needs your help. I know you have plenty stuff in your plate. ;)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Zone1 = MIDI CH 1 Zone2 = MIDI CH 2 Zone3 = MIDI CH 3 Zone4 = MIDI CH 4
Range = C1 ~ C3 Range = C#3 ~ C5 Range = C#5 ~ C6 Range = C#6 ~ E7
Shift = 0 Shift = -24 Shift = -1 Shift = -37
(No shift) (2 Octaves) (1 Semitone) (3 Octaves+1 Semitone)
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Outputs Channel 1 Outputs Channel 2 Outputs Channel 3 Outputs Channel 4
Range C1 ~ C3 Range C#1 ~ C3 Range C5 ~ B6 Range C3 ~ F4
All I can say is sweet!! Looks really good..
Obviously that's too much for one screen but it was an easy way to lay out the text. We really need to decide on the full featureset before laying out the screen.
I Agree..
I thought of another feature... Quick re-mapping of modwheel and pitchwheel (to other CC's and to (N)RPN's respectively.
Feeding modwheel/pitchwheel/velocity/keyscale as an input to sysex? Actually those two features could go together...
Have a matrix thing; take one of modwheel/pitchwheel/velocity/keyscale as an input, and insert the value into either a MIDI CC, Pitchbend, (N)RPN, patch change or sysex string sent to outputs.
You could have a split which acts as a controller sender... Each key gets a CC# and the velocity is sent as the CC value...
Then you might as well throw in a few pots/encoders/sliders/buttons/all of the above as well, you could use those values with the same engine mentioned above.
Yeah, ;D lets cram as much feature as we can on this project. ;D So long as the memory of the PIC permits.
I'm just making these ideas up as I type so it's a bit fragmented, but am I making sense? What do you think of these ideas?
Yes, it makes sense. My soldering iron is erect!! ;D ;D ;D
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Hi guys,
Question: While looking at the PIC Burner schematic http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_burner.pdf. What is the pin number of DATA_Out, DATA_In, CLOCK, Vdd_En, Vps_En, & Ground on the DB25?
thanks in advance..
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Pictures!!! Please ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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it's not as if i didn't want all that equipment... there are many things i want... an oscilloscope (+ signal generator), a nice lab psu, a GOOD multimeter, a CNC machine, heaps of components for experiments... and i could go on and on...
Understood... I'm just suggesting a way to troubleshoot... I hope you understand... :P
Fatar Studio 90 MIDIBOXed
in MIDIfication
Posted
Just a follow-up on this. I have all of the possible hardware for this project. The core, dinx, dout, encoders, switches, and MIDI connectors are all ready.
I also have a 2x20 (1 unit), 2x40 (2 units), and 4x20 (1 unit) LCD's in my stock.
So when ever your are ready... thanks.. :)