Foona

I have gotten sooo much help from this forum, it's about time i give something back! Of course :) I know the feeling. First of all, i would recomend that you buy kits from SmashTV for example, like i did. When doing so you can order a PRE-BURNED pic, so you do not really need to know how to program/burn them. But if you really need to know, then there is alot of good documentations, at the links that Buhler provided for you. And personaly, i believe it is important for you to go through the Ucapps site to, like nILS Podewski recomended. Even though the people here on MIDIbox forum have helped me, iv'e had to go to the Ucapps site many times for reference. Everything one needs to know is there, and in the Wiki. Yes there is difference. For example the number of select buttons. If you look through this section, Front Panel Options, of the Ucapps site, you'll se it for yourself. ;) In a casing of some sort. :P Well, if you look through The Midibox Gallery you'll get some ideas. I personally have done what many others allready has done. I reused the C64 casing. Usually i would build it in wood. But im too nostalgic not do do this this time. My next project however will probably be made out of wood though. Wood is nice :) Explaned in the Wiki and the Ucapps site. Controller elements are connected to the curcuitboards. And this is also explaned in the wiki and Ucapps site. There are heaps of schematics just waiting to be looked at. Here's one for example. I don't think there are video guides...is there guys? I have no idea' :) You can always ask questions here at the forum. But do please search the forum before doing so. I can admit that i myself haven't done it as thoroughly as i should have. But im leaning at searching more than asking. And i guess this is the whole thing about DIY. One has to Do-It-Yourself. Cuz when your'e finished with a project, you feel reel good about yourself. And the bonus is, one have one more fun musical instrument to play with :) Why don't you tell us a bit about yourself in the Miscellaneous section of this forum. You say you're a noob, but how much of a noob? When i joined this forum and the wonderfull world of midibox i made a presentation of myself. When doing so, it might be easier for others to help you with more specific stuff. And personally i like presentations. ....and i cannot stop doing looong posts either.... :-[ Welcome aboard Sirkit and good luck with your projects.

MIOSStudio_beta7_5 and Java SE 5. No other apps sending midi, and i have no other Java apps. Im affraid you're right Stryd. My problem runs deeper than that. I think i know whats going on. I had a simillar problem back in the days when i owned a Encore Electronics Knobby rotary controller. I was not able to access the device when hooked up through my Creamware setup. I actually had to take the Knobby over to a friend, using a regular "gameport" midi cable. Only then could i fully access and program the Knobby. Well, the only thing the CW MIDI monitor detects is when i turn my she beast on. And this is normal. I know my boards. The monitor will detect stuff comming IN from "outsider hardware"... :-X Other than that, it seems like my CW boards incorporate a hardware midifilter on the board. Cuz nothing that i do in MIOS Studio, will register in the in my CW MIDI monitor. Exactly as with the sysex editor for my ol' Knobby. And i have gone through this also: http://www.ucapps.de/howto_debug_midi.html The only thing left is digging deep in my old boxes for an old school midi cable, and go over to my friends house. Im almost certain that would do the trick. So close..and yet, so faar away dammit! <edit> geeez...i can't believe this.. Cable nowhere to be found, none of my friends have it and stores ar all closed.... anyone got schematics for a gameport/midi connector? I need something to do or i'll go beserk. <edit> found one. http://www.synthdiy.com/show/file/?id=1002 And you're gonna love this. I have everything i need at home....exept...ah yes...no optocouplers.. Now that's just perfect.

aaaaah.... It's easy to forget basic stuff like applications..breathing.... I'll get right on it!...as soon as iv'e figured out how to do that. ;D <edit> Ok iv'e got midi cables hocked up and MIOS Studio running. I also downloaded the midibox_sid_v2_0_rc18 application. Now do i simply choose "MIOS HEX FILE UPLOAD"? <edit> Ok iv'e tried "MIOS HEX FILE UPLOAD" option. I selected the hex file to upload "setup_6581.hex". I then chose wait for "upload request before staring upload". After this i clicked "Start", and then i waited, and nothing happened. So i unchecked the "upload request before staring upload" box and tried "Start" again. Nothing happens. <edit> I do not understand what's wrong (or what's going on). Iv'e connected the midi IN and OUT from my CreamWare Pulsar to the MbSID. In MIOS Studio, iv'e routed "MIOS Studio Out Port" to "CreamWare MIDI In/Out 1", And from "Creamware MIDI In/Out 1" to "MIOS Studio In Port". Iv'e even put up a MIDI monitor in my Scope Fusion Platform to see if i can get any midi data from MIOS Studio when playing the "MIDI Keyboard controller", but the Midi monitor stays blank. It's almost like there is no data getting sent from MS?! :-\ <edit> this is soo frelling annoying! The she beast is built, and she's looking to me for guidance, and i can't help her. It's heartbreaking really.

Okay fellaz. My beast is alive! YAY! ;D At this point my SIDv2 only have with 1x 6581 SID stuffed. I wanna make shure im doing everything correct, before building something bigger. 2x40 LCD, 10 Menu select buttons, 3 buttons for UP/SHIFT/DOWN (in that order), 1 Encoder with push button (push button will be used for "MENU" function), and the original C64 powerswitch reused. No banksticks yet, but i'll implement that later on today (if my girlfriend will let me), and it will be a full set of 8 sticks. Wanna see her naked? :o I've included some filthy pictures of her undressed, don't worry though, shes not very shy! YUMMY!!! The LCD used in this picture was not working properly. So i changed it, and apparently neither of them where backlit. :( Don't worry, i'll get rid of the cardboard in the final assembly. :P Im also going to cut the protoboard, leaving only the part with the buttons. As you can see she is "Ready".... ..only problem is...ready for what? Where do i go from here, im not shure about what to do next... :-[

stryd_one: I was certainly not trying to offend you in any way. I was joking with you. And if you where offended i apologise and ask you to forgive me. In Sweden we roll our eyes at eachother telling eacother how dumb we are, because it's funny. Especially among friends, and nobody gets upsett. Mabye our humour is wierd or something. Either way, i'll be more carefull in the future, and again. Im sorry if i offended you stryd_one. bugfight: i like it when you whack me :-* Thanks for the right pinout. I'll be of soldering the last wires now. It's gonna be lovely!

I see. Thats interesting. but..now that i see that quote. The pinout numbers confuses me more hahah ;D should i bridge pin 4 and 5 according to the pinout youv'e provided here? Because if i just count the pins clockwise (dissregarding the numbers in the pinout you've provided), and bridge pin 4 and 5, then i would actually bridging ground to +5VCD But if i follow the pinout you've provided then (counting clockwise and again, dissregarding the numbers in the pinout you've provided), i would have to bridge pin 3 and 5... Am i making any sense? :-\

hahaha haha 8) Bugfight: Do you mean that i should bridge pin 4 and 5 together? (counting pins clockwise)

Im glad you like what iv'e done. Now...could you tell me wich one of them is the right way to wire it? ::)

Buhler: I like keeping everything tidy when i build stuff. And space would normaly be an issue, but not at this stage. Im building a simple 1 SID (6581) configuration for testing purpose only. I have a whole C64 enclosure to fill with stuff :) And one should never joke about explosions. Last year my head exploded from smoking weed. Im not kidding man!!!!!! :P t_xen: Thanks for the ideas!! I am using a real C64 PSU for my setup. I got a few when purchasing C64's in my hunt for SID's. <edit> When it comes to powering the Midibox SID, iv'e discovered that confusion is a big part of it =) I like graphical stuff..so... Wich one of these are the right one? This one? unconfuser A or this one? unconfuser B Im wiring everything together, and hopefully i'll have some bleeps comming out of this monster sooooon. But im still very very carefull when it comes to the PSU part.

I guess i'll rely on the fuse in the C64 PSU to save me from eternal damnation. Thanks for the reply! :)

I noticed that the "C64 optimized" curcuit doesen't house a fuse. Why? I know there is a fuse in the C64 PSU, but is that secure enough?

Cr*p! Now i gotta desolder the regulator on the core... If i would have looked more carefully...well whats done is done, and now i have to undo it. Thank you for the explanation mr.baconjuice. I can now say i almost fully understand how this schematic works. nILS Podewski> in this stage i do not have the technological knowledge to even try adjusting/enhancing this curcuit. At the most, do have the knowledge of how to seriously damage, destroy and incinerate this curcuit. 8) (ohyeah!) And since that is not a option, i'll take the advice from both of you and build the cucuit accordingly to schematics.

All of this is so confusing.. When making the SID curcuits one has to think about the right voltage and capacitors. Now i have two boards here, one for the 6581 with a 7812 and a pair of 470 pF caps. The other one meant for the 8580/6582 with a 7809 and a pair of 6.8nF caps. Yet there is a 7809 regulator in the "C64 optimization" curcuit... I know i don't fully understand the mathematics behind this curcuit. Still it is very confusing. Can i asume that following the "C64 optimization" curcuit to point wil be correct, regardless of SID configuration (8580/6582)?

you guys must be laughin at me... well you should ;D It was a pretty stupid question hahaha Thanx for the replies!!

Ok I recieved my MB stuff from Smash like 3-4 days ago. And apparently the package had been lying at the post office for three weeks..... And they didn't notify me!! :o I went down there to ask what might had happened to my package. They where about to return it the same day I got there, so i guess i was lucky. Eitherway, I finished all the boards the same day I picked them up. And now im about to wire the MBsidv2 toghether. Im looking at this schematic: http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_8xsid_c64_psu_optimized.pdf Im reading: Note: the smaller 78L09 can also be used! (3) the 7805 regulators of the core modules have been removed. The Input/Output line of this IC has been shortened so that C5 of the core module (ca. 1000 uF is ok) Does this mean I have to change the 2200 cap to a smaller 1000 cap? (5) the additional cap at the last SID module reduces high frequency digital noise Is this cap needed when building a 2 SID stereo MBsid? Regarding the diodes (B40C800). I don't have this type at home. What else could i use? (1N4148's?) ..oh yeah... why are there two power switches?

True, "chair living" is a fact nowadays, more and more people get caught in it. Not a very good way to live life. Problem is, it's too comfortable to order stuff in front of the computer. And the fact that it's cheaper is a big issue. When it comes to hunting for parts by the way.. Last week i saw this famlily moving. I overheard them talking about throwing away an old organ. They didn't have a place for it at their new location. So i sneaked into the conversation, and got out of there with an old Hammond. I have no idea what happened to it. The circuitry was burned and it looked like scrap on the outside. But after some salvaging a have 11 fully functional drawbars among other stuff :) People throw away usefull stuff all the time. Just have to know when and where ;)

First of all, personally, im not lazy :) In sweden electronic parts are EXPENSIVE. HongKong provides much lower prices. For instance. Ordering a 100 unit's of regular flip-switches in Sweden, from the biggest supplier, would cost me about 164 U$D's, without shipping!!!. When ordering the exact same switches from HongKong i got such a good price including shipping, that 100 units cost me about 74 U$D's. The price speaks for itself. :) Testing parts in shops? By my experience, i have never had the chance to test parts in a shop. Not the same service system over here. And iv'e never had to wait for a "few missing resistors". When i started in the DIY buisness i made shure i had all the "basic electronic parts" at home. I ordered BIG packs of resistors, 1% and 5%'s. And if i run out, i'll just lift my arse from the chair and go buy em. ;) Also, i live in a small town.. You have to keep in mind, Sweden is a very small country with a population of 9,1 million inhabitants. The country is small, the demand for electronic components is smaller compared to America for instance. In my town, there are no component supplier. I have to go to the neighbouring town. And that shop is even more expensive (small supplier). Buying a 100 units of regular flip-switches would come down to about 246 U$D's Catch my drift?.. :o And lastly. I cannot speak for other "westeners", but i certainly "go outside my house". If i didn't, i wouldn't be able to go to work, meet my friends, party, eat and shop for grocerys.... you know...live my life. Im sorry, but i couln't help to take your reply as a poke in my eye :) <edit> Of course i have to add, orders from HongKong might sometimes end up at customs. But even if i have to pay fares, in the end the price is still lower, than ordering from domestic supplyers.

I found this one: Perfect for n00b's.´ http://www.electronics2000.co.uk/ It also provides a freeware download of the "Electronics Assistant" software, among other stuff.

When i started with my MB64 box, i was concerned about the money. Very soon i noticed that the build would take months, due to shipping times. I live in Sweden and for me, ordering from Hongkong, America, Australia, is cheaper. But then i have to wait up to 6 weeks!!!!, before receiving my order. Also, sometimes the customs get a hold of my packages, and i have to pay fares. :'( I decided that ordering all the parts over a few months, aint too bad. The wallet gets..."refilled...by the end of every month :P ..suddently money weren't that important. Don't give me wrong, i certainly try to get discounts on every order i make. But sometimes i just know exactly what i want. And if what i want is expensive, then it'll have to cost me. Ordering from SmashTV was a real breeze for me. All the prices are very very fair! Remember, if the Midibox platform where a comercial project, then the prices would me much higher!!! So the basic parts for whatever you're building wil be cheap in mine, and probably many others opinion. When it comes to the rest of it.... You said that you've built "preamps and the like" before, so you probably allready have an idea' about what materials can cost. The list can be very long or very short. For me, the list has become looong. What i love about all the MB projects is that they are modular like crazy. I entered this world because of this fact: YOU can make a unit to YOU'R specifications. YOU decide it's appearance and function! Isn't it lovely? ;D Even if it takes alot of time and money to build, in the end, when you see your finished baby, fully working.. Doing everything you dreamed it would. Then it is definetly worth it. "I love it when a plan comes together" - Hannibal fom The A-Team :P

Isn't that just perfect. I love when they do stuff like that. Thanx for the tip!

Now that's cooool!!!! ;D Anyone got any input about wich line curve i shall choose, regarding the info i posted above?

Suggesting the LC was a good idea. I'll have to think about it. Then again....64 pots is just freakin' awesome heheh And of course you want to bring a big ass controller to a gig with 64 pots on. Why? Cuz it's coool ;D Regarding the pictures. I was talking to a HongKong dealer from ebay. Iv'e purchased several items from him in the past, like IC's, protoboards, switches, pots etc. Fair prices! This is why i asked him if he could supply me with pots. He told me to go to this link (ALPHA pots homepage): http://www.alphapotentiometers.net/html/pot_selection.html Choose what i want and send him a price request. http://www.alphapotentiometers.net/html/16mm_slide_pot_5.html When chosing the right specifikation, one needs to confirm what kind of taper one wants. http://www.alphapotentiometers.net/html/taper_curves.html This is confusing.

Thanx for answering! Well i work mostly with Dub music nowadays. When i mix Dub, i do it live as it is suposed to be. I record mabye 7-8 takes and then choose the best one. This is how the big boys used to do it. ;) At those times i need tactile controll of all the channels. And many times i use up to 64 channels. I have no need for panning or stuff like that. So 64 faders is the way to go for me. Not having this option has been a real pain in the "whooka". I might consider 48 faders, 32 is a very low number for me.. This is the way i work when live mixing. And it would be so nice not having to bring my three existing fader controlers to a gig anymore. Just 1 :D then again....im having other thoughts.... We will see how it all turns out in the end. <EDIT> When talking about pots and such. Do i remember this correctly?: A=Logarithmic B=Linear <EDIT> Ok now im getting confused. They have many different "Taper" settings. Wich one is the one i want? Taper A?

hehe, thanx guys :)

Of course it is.... Cr*p.. I gotta do something about my very short memory :-\