matyt

I beg your pardon stryd_one, I should have listened to your advice..... Sorry BTW, i've checked voltages, and seems they are ok.... I get about 5.07 volts at every point on the MIDI troubleshooting, so i think can be ok....

Already done...... as you can see in the screenshot i've selected the option "wait for upload request"

I've successfully burned the MIOS, and the change id app (previous topic), via Serial Port. today i've tried to upload an app via midi, and MIOS studio tells me this..

When i've ordered my parts from SmashTV, i've also ordered those pots, with 1/4" shaft.... the problem is that, here in europe, that size isn't standard, and my Sifam Bullet Type Knobs (6mm shaft), don't fit them.... Have you got any ideas? do you know some european knobs producer that make knobs with 1/4" hole?

7.1 Volts?! It's extremely high.... I fear you may have fried the 7805... and maybe also the pic....

they look like Sifam Bullet type knobs.... if you want i can sell you about 28 of these, for.... 12 pounds? :D

Fixed! finished LTC module, Uploaded MIOS via Serial Driver, than the change id app.... and now is working properly... thank you very much guys!

I was testing my module, and I connected it to my pc, in order to burn MIOS (which seems that it isn't on my pic, bought from SmashTV), but i don't receive any upload request, instead, every two seconds I recieve a reset message, and a random Midi message. i've done MIDI Troubleshooting and seems that my core works perfectly. I hope that the ID isn't a problem, as the pic was supposed to work with a LTC module, which now it isn't used. The id is 0000 0000 0000 0100, which was the one suggested by smashTV I send also a screen of what I see in MIOS studio 8 Edit: Now Fullscale

ho un programmatore per PC minipippo, residuato di quando hackeravo le chiavette coges, li fermo da un po'.... credete che riesca a programmare il pic per la midibox con quello? il problema è che, se il pic 18f ha 40 pin, sul programmatore ho solo un socket a 16 o a 8 pin...

why only 3 decks? I use a 2 decks control surface, and switch the two units to control A-C, B-D. with traktor 3.X it requires some programming, with the new version you just have to develop your mapping....

sinceramente.... no... credo ti convenga scegliere quello per il quale riesci a trovare i componenti più a buon mercato.... per quanto riguarda la connessione all'alimentazione..... http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_opl3_interconnections.pdf http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=project:synthesizer:midibox_fm ti consiglio di dare una letta anche a questa pagina.... contiene un sacco di domande che probabilmente potresti farti durante la costruzione... ;)

http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=bipolar_12v_psu Se hai bisogno qualche aiuto con la traduzione, o con l'elettronica, dimmi pure..

Credo tu debba fartelo in casa..... io per la 64 ho trovato un alimentatore vecchio, e ho usato quello, ma avevo bisogno di un voltaggio non eccessivamente "particolare"

don't use LTC..... join the bulkorder for GM5 Chip+PCB.... If you're gonna use midibox connected to a notebook, USB is preferred...

I've found at an electronic fair in Italy those awesome buttons, which are the ones sold by the european Midibox kit seller.... They usually cost about 1,00 Euro, I've found them at 50 Cents, and as i bought 50 of them, I've payed only 35 each.... The site of the seller is this one http://www.parsicitalia.it/ashop/ Unfortunately is in italian, but if you need some help ask me... ;D