fussylizard
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Posts posted by fussylizard
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@strophlex - I particularly like the case you have there. *Very* chic. Hope you like the displays. Pity the pictures don't do them justice.
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Just made a donation to webhosting, but what is the difference between donating to webhosting vs. donating to development?
Thx for all your work keeping the forum running!
FWIW I'm pretty happy with SMF from a user perspective (I like midibox.org much better than other forums I use from time to time) but if a change is required then we'll all learn to live with it.
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@rosch - Great! Sorry that it took so long in transit. BTW Thx again for the PCB+chips!
Is anyone else from the initial batch of orders still waiting for their LCDs to arrive?
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I use an AOUT_NG connected to the expansion port for CORE 1 in my MB-6582. There are a few pictures here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/fussylizard/MB6582?authkey=Gv1sRgCM7npqbPgvbfYA&feat=directlink#
I just wired J6_CORE1 to the first few pins on the expansion port. No major planning, I just picked what was easiest to solder. :-)
I ended up putting the +/1 12VDC power supply board and the AOUT_NG board in a cheap plastic box as described here:
http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,13845.0.html
In my setup I connect the audio out from CORE 1 to audio in on a Moogerfooger lowpass filter guitar pedal (one channel only since it's a mono pedal), and audio out from the pedal to my soundcard input (which then goes out to the speakers, etc.). Channels 1 and 2 on the AOUT_NG are routed to the filter cutoff and resonance CV inputs on the Moogerfooger. Then I can play sounds on the SID and have the SID filter envelope control the Moogerfooger cutoff, etc. It's lots of fun. I'm actually thinking about getting some modular synth filters and trying those out just for fun.
I also just got one of Seppoman's SSM filter boards (rosch had an extra one he let me "borrow") but I've not tried it yet.
Have fun!
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I actually noticed your post for that when I searched for LCD Insulation. I think I'll do that as well as taping up the PCB (which I've already done). My screws are a little small though, so I may stack 2 washers instead for a gap.
My problem now is that with all this futzing around troubleshooting the issue, I've broke a few wire leads on some of the ribbon cables between the CS and the mainboard.... *sigh*
Well then you probably noted my solution there also: use right-angle SIL headers on the top of the CS, and use nice, flexible ribbon cable soldered to the bottom of the main PCB that ends in the mating SIL connectors. Worked great for me, and I opened and closed that thing a zillion times. I would have tried Wilba's solution, but (1) I thought a detachable solution might come in handy (it did for me), and (2) I couldn't figure out the magic incantation to get cables like Wilba's out of Mouser, so I just used what I could find. :-)
Good luck sorting it all out- you're almost there! I love my little MB-6582...
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FWIW I didn't use any insulation, tape, etc. I just used a small nut on each screw between the PCB and the LCD to offset the LCD below the board far enough so it won't short: http://picasaweb.google.com/fussylizard/MB6582?authkey=Gv1sRgCM7npqbPgvbfYA&feat=directlink#5359892899542622770
Glad you got it working though!
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@mirmidi, julianvoirin - great, thanks!
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@vcfool, kartoshka - thanks for letting me know! I like checking names off my list.
If anyone else has received their LCDs yet but has not posted here or sent me an email/PM, please do so. I'm holding a few LCDs in reserve in case someone's package gets lost but once everyone has theirs I can make those available to others that might be interested in them.
Thx,
C
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Besides, I still haven't figured out a good way to strip all that ribbon cable to the same length. If I could do that, it probably would be easier to manage.
All I do is use an X-Acto knife followed by pulling with my fingers to separate the wires and expose about 3/4". Then I just use handheld wire strippers to strip off 1/8" - 1/4" each wire and that's it. Not a fancy wire stripper, just a cheap one that works like wire cutters with small holes for each wire gauge. If you wanted to get fancy I suppose you could cut the inner wires of the ribbon slightly shorter than the outer wires so everything lines up perfectly when soldered (since the middle wires don't have as far to reach as the outer wires when soldered to the board) but it's never been an issue so I don't bother.
I completely understand not wanting to unsolder all those wires though. :-)
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Slight off-topic but,
how is your header cabling system treating you now fussy?
Do you find it in anyway awkward or anything
Cheers.
I assume you're referring to the connection between the control surface and base PCB, right? It's working great, no problems or complaints. It doesn't look as pretty as Wilba's though, but it is detachable. For the record I used right-angle male SIL headers on the top side of the control surface PCB and soldered ribbon cables to the bottom side of the base PCB. Female SIL headers are attached to the other ends of the ribbon cables to mate with the right-angle headers. It's a bit of a tight fit but no problems. Just don't make the ribbon cables any longer than necessary since all that cable gets squeezed when the case is closed.
There's a picture of it here (before I put the female pins in the plastic headers): http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,13492.msg116476.html#msg116476
I didn't have 8-pin female housings (the black plastic things the crimp pins fit into) for a while so I used the boards without them and surprisingly had no problems with shorts, even with the case closed (the crimp pins fit very snugly).
I used ribbon cable and crimp pins/housings from SmashTV. (I used the older gray ribbon cable he used to sell, not the newer multicolored kind but I'm sure the newer stuff would work fine.)
I keep trying to convince m00dawg to do it this way but he's having too much fun debugging broken wires. :-) I opened and closed mine a zillion times and didn't have any problems (I guess the ribbon cable I used is more flexible than what he used).
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Wow, really loving your mix! Nice job! Us mere mortals can only hope to aspire to such sonic goodness!
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You might try a few pot values to get best results. I just have feedback on mine (no audio in) and I tried 100K linear and 500K logarithmic pots. The 500k log pots basically only had a small useful range, but the 100k worked pretty well for me. YMMV of course, but I definitely recommend trying out a few options before doing anything too permanent.
I might consider using that same circuit in mine, though I would use the expansion port for the audio input jacks instead of messing with the case design to accommodate the new inputs.
Good luck!
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Optrex provides the datasheets, pinouts, drawings, etc. via their web site, but you have to sign up and they email it to you. There's nothing special to it (uses a standard pinout), but I posted a PNG of the drawing and pinout at the start of this thread (http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,14045.msg120798.html#msg120798) in case you want it without hassling with the Optrex site.
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I should try this myself. It would be nice to have a single power supply board for MB-FM. Right now I'm using a Paia power supply board w/ wallwart for +/- 12V AND a separate wallwart to supply the Core with 9VAC. Irritating...
Interested to hear how it turns out for you (though you'll not be using the +/- 12V part of it). I'd have to look up transformers though, I'm always confused looking at them in the Mouser catalog.
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That seems like it would work, though perhaps this (see attachment)? This would let you control the amount of input signal.
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@fussylizard: yes, great packing, now I have enough bubble wrap for a batch of sammichSID kits ;)
Glad I could help. :-)
It was also nice to get rid of a bunch of bubble wrap I'd accumulated over the years and held onto in case I needed it for something. I bought fresh bubble wrap for individual LCD packing, but used the "recycled" bubble wrap to fill out each box of displays.
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@turuloid, boops - glad everything arrived safely! SmashTV's advice probably paid off in making things go smoothly through customs. Glad you liked the packaging, boops. :-) Maybe next time I'll splash out for the anti-static warning stickers instead of tape on the anti-static bags for that ultra-professional look...
@turuloid - That's an interesting filter, thanks for the link! In general I'm not wild about the idea of using hard-to-find chips, but Seppoman's board is nicely integrated w/ the AOUT_NG so it is rather convenient. But those MOTM modules do look *very* nice!
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Wow, the post is moving fast this week!
@olga - Man, I wish I had gotten in the MB community to get some of Seppoman's PCBs (your comment reminded me to sign up). Hopefully he'll do another run soon. In the meantime I guess I can buy a second Moogerfooger filter so I can do stereo, or I can always use this as an excuse to get a small modular setup (and possibly add in an external ADSR at the same time...).
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BTW you might have room for a small fan along the right side of the case (depending on what power supply option you used). You could then cut slits or holes on both the right and left sides of the case to get good airflow (even without the fan). If you have access to a milling machine then cutting nice slits is easy - http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,13502.0.html (though I should have bought a longer cutting tool to make the slits taller).
RE: heat sinks see this thread: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,13785.0.html
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Also I am wondering, if you want four analog inputs, why have you decided not to use the four holes above the audio outputs (where feedback pots go)? Having both audio inputs and feedback pots doesn't really work well, the feedback pots (as I suggest using them) are connected to the SID audio inputs and ground the inputs when you're not using feedback. There's no neat way of doing both (i.e. a grounded audio input socket and a feedback pot routing audio output into audio input).
Couldn't you use jacks that change the circuit when you plug them in to do this? Basically each (stereo) jack has connections A1,A2, B1,B2, and C1,C2. Without a jack plugged in A1 is connected to A2, B1 is connected to B2, and C1 is connected to C2. When you insert a jack, tip of the jack goes to A1 and A2 goes to nothing, ring goes to B1 and B2 goes to nothing, and sleeve goes to C1 and C2 goes to nothing.
So basically (for a mono connection so let's ignore the ring for now) you would hook A1 to audio in on the SID and rewire the output of the feedback pot to A2. You hook C1 to audio ground on the SID, and C2 to ground on the feedback pot. So when no jack is plugged in you have the feedback pot connected, and when a jack is plugged in the feedback pot is disconnected and you have audio input.
A jack like this would work (Mouser part #550-20301): http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=NMJ6HFD2virtualkey56810000virtualkey550-20301
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Great news that everything is showing up so quickly and in good shape! Thanks for letting me know. I hope the other packages arrive quickly. I followed SmashTV's instructions carefully so hopefully everything will go smoothly.
@olga42 - I guess you're familiar with Austin (I just added that I was from there to my profile last night, LOL)? Funnily enough I had someone in the office ask me if I wanted to go to Chuy's for lunch earlier today but unfortunately I had already eaten. :-) As for live music, this weekend is the Austin City Limits Music Festival so I'll be doing that for the next 3 days!
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Wilba, Can you describe the overall process on working with Ponoko? What apps do you find easiest to use to make front panel designs, what sort of files do you send them, how does the prototyping work, etc.? What about the engraving/painting for the graphics? Just curious since I'm working on a CS for my MB-FM now that the LCD bulk order isn't sucking tons of time now and I might consider trying them instead of FPE. Thx!
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Nicely done...
See, I told you bulk orders were easy! :P
Well I won't rest easy until all the LCDs arrive safely, but I think the hard part is over. I'm glad I'm handy with Excel and mail merge in Word since otherwise this would have been a ton more manual work. Sorting through the post office stuff was a huge pain, but thankfully SmashTV guided me expertly through the process, so huge props to him for that. Those receiving international orders will have an email from me that will look eerily familiar if you've ever ordered from SmashTV's shop before. :-)
Thanks again for all your help Wilba- it really made a huge difference.
If I ever do this again (who knows?) it will be *much* easier given all I've learned.
@Sirkit - Plenty LCDs still available, order away!
mb808 din issue
in MIDIbox SEQ
Posted
I don't know anything specific about MB-SEQ or MB-808, but did you try swapping the shift register chips and/or the encoders with known good ones? (It sounds like you tested the encoder thoroughly, but swapping might be sure.) That would help narrow down if this is a problem with the encoder, the shift register, the PCB/soldering, or the PIC.
Are other inputs on the same shift register chip working?
You could try to clock the serial register manually if you don't have a logic analyzer (like most of us), but that might be going a bit crazy and I probably wouldn't bother unless I got really desperate.
Good luck!