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fussylizard

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Posts posted by fussylizard

  1. I shipped all the international orders today!  We filled a whole cart - see the pic for the "work in progress" at the post office.  Boops, I think the top box is yours.  :)

    I will send out an email to each of you with the customs # for your shipment later today or tomorrow.

    Thanks again for everyone being so patient.  I hope the displays bring lots of green goodness to your MB projects!

    I still have 11 left so tell your friends!

    5751_387d770a097dc15fcd066cbf04deb0b8c54

    5751_387d770a097dc15fcd066cbf04deb0b8c54

  2. Update: All international orders are packed and boxed with address labels affixed.  I still have to fill out the customs forms and print / attach invoices to the outside of the boxes and then I'm ready to go!  Still looking good for Saturday shipping.

    BTW I tested each display before packing each in an anti-static bag and wrapping each individually in bubble wrap.  I found one display of the 70 I've tested so far that had a very, very minor defect (part of one pixel always stays on).  It's very minor (I'll probably use that display myself on my MB-SEQ) but I'm glad I caught it.  Anyway, each display I'm shipping should work 100%.  If it doesn't it was either damaged in shipping somehow, you soldered it wrong, or you left in R12 without an IIC module. :-)

  3. thanks for the info on R12!

    i'm soldering my FM core atm

    :D

    Ah, good timing!

    BTW As Wilba discovered you need to keep the leads from the core to the FM board short, preferably under 10cm, or things get unreliable.

    The interconnection from the Core to the FM module is a bit complex to do with headers.  I tried this approach and then fried my LCD so I had to cut it off.  When I went to solder a new LCD on (I've got plenty of replacements now :-) it was making my head hurt to figuring out which wires went where so I decided to just make a "normal" LCD cable and solder the FM module ribbon cables to the bottom of the core as recommended by TK (so one end was soldered directly to the core pins on the bottom of the PCB and the other side has 2 female SIL headers).  Having tried both methods, I'd recommend soldering directly to the core as in my second attempt.

    I'll have to post a pic of my FM module.  Once I finish up the bulk order I plan on making a control surface PCB (unless I decide to just do it on perfboard).  It would be my first PCB so we'll see how that goes...

  4. IMPORTANT!

    When using this display you should not stuff resistor R12 on your core module unless you have an IIC module attached to your core.

    Details

    I was doing some work on my MB-FM Sunday night and noticed that my display was a bit unreliable with the current core (version 3 schematic - Smash TV board R4d).  The problem was it would sometimes turn on but no characters would display.  It worked perfectly on a version 2 schematic core module (which I have been using to test each LCD before I pack it - I have Smash TV board R3).

    Investigation showed that the pull-up resistor R12 added in revision 3 of the core made the display somewhat unreliable.  According to the core docs this is used if you have an IIC module attached.  I don't have an IIC module to test with (I have some on order from SmashTV now).  Ultra's MB-SEQ used this exact display with his Ultracore module that includes this pull up when used with IIC modules so this should not be a problem for MB-SEQ.  For MB-FM you don't need IIC modules so don't stuff R12 for MB-FM.

    So when you first test your display with a bare core module (you *are* testing as you go, right?) you should not stuff R12 to ensure the display is working with your core and your cable is wired correctly, etc.  When you add in an IIC module then you should solder in R12.

    I'll report further details when I get my IIC modules for MB-SEQ.

  5. Thanks for everyone's understanding!

    All this international mailing stuff is incredibly tedious to sort through.  Part of the problem is that some (many?) post office workers here don't really know the regulations for international mail and give out incorrect information.  For example, I was told by the post office that the boxes I have were too big to be shipped via the cheaper "First Class Mail International" and had to be sent via the much more expensive "Priority Mail International".  After reading the rules myself and discussions with SmashTV, my boxes are fine.  So I will have to print out the regulations and take them with me to the post office to show them in case they refuse to use my boxes for first class.  Ugh.

  6. All,

      Quick update:

    1) I've nearly sorted through all the international shipping details.  The only remaining item is to calculate insurance costs for the international orders (I have to call U-PIC tomorrow since I can't figure out how to get a quote from their website), then I'll be ready to issue the international invoices.  I've already shipped the domestic orders since I've sent tons of mail within the U.S. and understand how that works. :-)

    2) About customs fees: As I stated in the bulk order terms and conditions, I will not provide incorrect information on customs declaration forms for orders.  Shipments will have a CN-22 customs form attached to the outside of the box and will show the shipped value ($26 x number of LCDs ordered).  I will also include a PayPal invoice inside a plastic "Invoice Enclosed" pouch that will show the LCD cost + shipping/insurance/PayPal fees (on separate lines if I can figure out how to make PayPal do that).  I understand that everyone wants to save money and avoid customs fees, but I must follow the rules to avoid problems.  Please inform me via PM if this is a problem and I will cancel your order.  Sorry!

    Thanks to everyone, especially the international buyers (most of you!) for your patience while I do my best to make this bulk order go smoothly.

    Regards,

    Chris

  7. Check out these pictures from my build: http://picasaweb.google.com/fussylizard/MB6582?authkey=Gv1sRgCM7npqbPgvbfYA&feat=directlink#

    I have a few dedicated to how I mounted the LCD.  I also have one that shows the wires soldered to the bottom of the LCD (though I should probably show a more detailed version of this).  I should probably get around to posting a link to these pictures somewhere... :-)

    I have lots of notes and such I still need to post from my build, such as an "additional" parts list for all the extra nuts, bolts, female DIL headers, etc. that I need to post since it took me (IIRC) 2 orders from SmashTV, 3 or 4 orders from McMaster-Carr, and 2 or 3 orders from Mouser to get everything.  I could have probably figured it all out had I thought about it more, but there were some things that I just wasn't sure about or forgot about.  It would probably be helpful to others to see all this extra stuff to augment Wilba's already excellent instructions.

    Hopefully I'll get to that after I finish up running the 40x2 LCD bulk order...

  8. Well, it's a nice tray and all, but the tray shipping means that I have to insert each display into an anti-static bag, tape it, wrap it in bubble wrap, and tape it.  That box 'o LCDs in bubble wrap is sounding pretty good! :-)

    BTW I did a quick test of the first tray of LCDs and they look fantastic.  Maybe it's all in my head but the right side of the sample I got from Mouser seems to be just barely brighter than the left.  Very trivial, but the new ones look perfect.  I ended up writing a simple MIOS app that fills all 80 chars with letters and used a male DIL header pressed into the solder-plated holes like you suggested for testing and it works great.  Thanks again for the advice!

  9. Current stock: 18 reserved, 1 unreserved.

    Thanks to everyone for their interest!

    People who reserved LCDs on the earlier thread have until the end-of-day Friday to get me their orders.  If you did not reserve LCDs but still want some, go ahead and send me your order per the instructions and on Saturday I will let you know if I have enough available to fill your order based on reserved LCDs that were not claimed.  I *may* have a few extras available later if no shipments are lost, so email me your order to secure your place in line for any extras.  If there is a lot of continued interest I *may* be willing to do another carton (80 pieces) based on how shipping the first carton-worth works out (and if Optrex still has stock available at the sale price).

    To those who have ordered already I will send out PayPal invoices later this week and will pack orders this weekend.  Shipments should go out sometime next week.

    Thanks,

    Chris

    @Wilba - Let me know if you want two more for a full tray, but a box that big will probably scream "INSPECT ME!" to your customs office. :-)

  10. To correct fussylizard: J4 is just inline with the power supply, it can be used to connect an external PSU (see PSU Option D) or to power other things (if using PSU Option A or B). So testing voltages at J4 is fine, and the same as testing at J1_SIDx

    Ah, right.  I remembered the jumpers on J71 and J72, but forgot that J4 was open.  Sorry for the confusion!

  11. All, I just posted the ordering instructions at http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,14045.0.html.  Come and get'em!

    What You Need to Do Now

    If you've already added yourself to the informal list in this thread, (thanks!!) you need to follow the instructions in the new post to get your order to me.  I'll reserve the requested number of displays for you for a week (until Sept. 18).  After that, it's first-come, first served!

    If you are not already on the informal list, just send me your order as described in the order thread.

    ---

    BTW The boxes for shipping just arrived...I wasn't expecting them until next week.  Displays will probably be here Monday (I'll post pics!) and I hope to start shipping orders next week.

    Thanks for everyone's interest and support!

    Regards,

    Chris

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